Newbie... Sorry ;-)

[Texas Splash]

Good numbers. Now if the FC is holding well, you should be able to spread-out your testing intervals further apart. No need to test every hour.

 

[Flying Tivo]

You can use one scoop in a 5ml sample. So each drop is 1ppm fc

 

[emkay]

Thanks flying tivo, perfect idea!

 

[emkay]

checked this morning, about 8h without adding, 15ppm fc... added up to 20 ppm and will check in 2h again

 

[emkay]

Checked 12:30, again 15ppm, added 2.5l
Checked 5:30, 18ppm, added 0.9l

Question: Any experience on algae in a solar heater on the roof. I shut it of for the SLAM, but maybe I should also “clean” it?

 

[Texas Splash]

Question: Any experience on algae in a solar heater on the roof. I shut it of for the SLAM, but maybe I should also “clean” it?

You should let the chlorinated water run through anything that had the algae water in it before to help pure the lines.

 

[emkay]

Switched Solar System back on... Hope the pool stays below 90F. Getting hot here in SWFL.

Today 7:30: 17ppm, put bleach back to get 20ppm again and switched on solar
Today 1:01 pm: 16ppm, 1.2l chlorine, back to 20ppm

 

[emkay]

question: would a digital ph meter read correct at 20ppm chlorine?

 

[Texas Splash]

question: would a digital ph meter read correct at 20ppm chlorine?

I think so. @mknauss do you recall? Is it only the R-0014 that is skewed by the high FC?

 

[mknauss]

pH meters are uneffected by chlorine above 10 ppm.

 

[emkay]

Ok, seems I am around 7.8/7.9 ph... should I add acid during SLAM or balance that after?

 

[Flying Tivo]

Yes better to have it at 7.2

 

[emkay]

I guess I am nearing my end!! Only minor losses of FC, but not yet completely there... maybe tomorrow after a successful overnight test <0.5 ppm.
Sooo... what would be the next steps!

1. Waiting until it drops to about 5ppm and then reactivate the SWG? I have an IC40, so i assume 35% should do the job... how to calculate that right?
2. Do an accurate test of all parameters with FC being at 5ppm
2. get ph down to 7.6 from wherever it is
3. get cya to 80 from wherever it is
4. get hardiness up to 400 from wherever it is

Is there a procedure of what to do first?

Also, I got myself new steps for the ladder and want to upgrade the light. At what time is it safe for me to go into the pool and work (not kids playing)?

 

[Texas Splash]

Well, we're going to have to dock you a few points because you listed two #2s above. Bwaahaahaa. You have the right idea overall, but before trying to make chemical adjustment decisions right now, just plan on taking a full set of new test results after the SLAM once the FC is below 10. You can post back here if you like. We'll help you account for all levels to ensure you add only what is needed. Keep up the great work!

 

[emkay]

oops... lol

I will wait if overnight test comes out as needed and assume a day or 2 later I should be good to test all values again...

guys, you are plain awesome, couldn't have done that without your help!!

 

[emkay]

Raining heavily... Every day... Dang. I guess I wait a little before I decide to finish ;-)

 

[emkay]

It is lightly raining but I seem to be quite constant at 20-21 ppm FC since yesterday afternoon... at what point would you do a first full test and when to switch on the SWG again?

THANKS!!!

 

[emkay]

First results with Taylor K-2006 and ColorQ (values in brakets)...could not wait, to curious:

FC 10.4 (8)
CC 0.4 (0.3)
PH 7.8 (7.7)
ALK 90 (99)
CH 175
CYA <30 (28)
Salt 3400

 

[Texas Splash]

Congrats on the new kit! So the SLAM is over correct? If so, it's time to balance back to normal levels. With a SWG you want the CYA at a minimum of 70. Since you appear to have some CYA in there right now, be cautious. I would add about 30 ppm of stabilizer for now just so that you don't go too high. You can test in a few days and add a little more if needed. Withe the CYA increasing, the SWG will work more efficiently and you'll preserve FC better. The FC will slowly fall, so watch it and keep it balanced according to the FC/CYA Levels. You may have to adjust the pump run time and/or SWG output % to find that sweet spot of FC production, but you'll get it. If teh FC ever drops too low, have some chlorine int eh laundry room as a back-up.

As for your plaster, the CH is a bit low. If your water isn't hard or you expect to get a lot of rain exchange, you may want to increase teh CH to at least 250. TA is fine for now, and so is the pH. An ideal pH area for your pool may be that 7.7-7.8 area.

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

 

[Texas Splash]

Oh, and for future FC testing, do it this way. 10 ML water sample size with one generous scoop of powder and mix. Count drop to clear. Divide in half. Example: 16 drops equals an FC of 8. )