Which Test Kit?

[vjc103]

There are other good pH tests other than the Taylor one.

Hi,

What other test do you have in mind ? I am going to take over pool maintenance next week from the PB, and was wondering about a better kit for someone whose color vision is not so good.

Thanks !

 

[Texas Splash]

vjc, welcome to TFP! You want to get the TF-100. The alternative is the Taylor K-2006C. See Test Kits Compared

 

[vjc103]

vjc, welcome to TFP! You want to get the TF-100. The alternative is the Taylor K-2006C. See Test Kits Compared

Thanks ! Sorry, I've not updated my signature yet, everything is just too hectic at the moment.

I did get a TF-100 and went through all the tests. I have some rudimentary familiarity with chemistry from my secondary school years 40 years ago , so it makes sense to me.

The pool has not been handed over to me yet (this coming Thursday) so I do not want to fight with PB on chemistry just yet. He keeps adding hydrochloric acid with pH about 6.8 and I keep aerating to raise it until his technician comes again. I have the following readings:

10,000 gallons/plaster/SWG (IC-40)

FC 6
TA 50
CYA 45
pH 6.8
CH 300

I know that I need to increase CYA and lower FC but as I said I'll be taking care of that when the pool is handed over to me. At least, I've convinced the PB to run the SWG at 20% /8 hours instead of 80% because FC was about 8 before.

 

[Texas Splash]

Your numbers aren't all that bad except for the pH. That worries me. That is way too low for new plaster because that new plaster needs to cure before the water can be that aggressive (low CSI). You might consider adding a some basking soda to get the TA up to about 70-80 which should help a bit with both the water condition and allowing the pH to rise a bit faster.

 

[vjc103]

Your numbers aren't all that bad except for the pH. That worries me. That is way too low for new plaster because that new plaster needs to cure before the water can be that aggressive (low CSI). You might consider adding a some basking soda to get the TA up to about 70-80 which should help a bit with both the water condition and allowing the pH to rise a bit faster.

Thanks ! As soon as it's mine in a couple of days, I'll do that. He's going to "check" chemicals one last time and I do not want to cause an unnecessary fight. The plaster is slightly older than a month.

Not sure why the PB is so aggressive with adding the acid.

 

[Texas Splash]

Not sure why the PB is so aggressive with adding the acid.

We've seen here quite often that some builders, while perhaps good at their craft of installation, simply don't have the proper background and understand of chemicals and water balance. Many of them simply do a "dump & run" technique that has seemed to work fine in the past.

 

[mknauss]

The current chemistry affects the long term health of the plaster. This PB and/or you will be long gone in 8-10 years when it really shows.

 

[vjc103]

The current chemistry affects the long term health of the plaster. This PB and/or you will be long gone in 8-10 years when it really shows.

Ok, will add baking soda immediately.

Also, I just got a K-1766. It shows the salt level at 4200 which is rather high. Does it need to be decreased to 3500 (IC-40 seems happy with all green lights) or it can be kept as is ?

 

[mknauss]

You can leave the salinity where it is. You get some rain in Florida. I suspect the pool will overflow some and the salinity will go down.

You may be able to taste it at 4200 ppm.

 

[vjc103]

You can leave the salinity where it is. You get some rain in Florida. I suspect the pool will overflow some and the salinity will go down.

You may be able to taste it at 4200 ppm.

I do taste it but do not mind.

Thx