New geometric build - The Woodlands, TX

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Thanks for the compliments. As far as the Pebbletec, I've only been in the spa once so far - so I really can't talk in detail on feel, although it was comfortable - but overall, very happy with the aesthetics. Also, the PB we used does not do remodels, not sure on resurface.. If anyone would like more specific feedback on the PB we selected, or others in the area, feel free to shoot me a message..

Our project is wrapping up - we put in trees last week and sod scheduled for this Friday! I'll post some updated pictures soon!

Mods- The pool was just turned over to me after the salt was added last week, although I've been testing for a few weeks - but I'm ready to start asking some questions! Do I need to open a new thread in the "Testing and Balancing" sub-forum or can I just keep it all part of this build thread?
 
You can keep asking your startup water chemistry questions here.
 
For the first 4-5 weeks, the PB had their start-up guy balancing and maintaining everything - he used tabs in the skimmer to sanitize up until about 12 days ago. He also did all the initial set up on the Intellicenter. Two programs are set to run every day: "Pool" 1PM-8PM at 2800 RPM, "Pool Low" 7AM-1PM at 1800 RPM. The salt was added last week, qty 10, 40 lb bags. Taylor K-1766 test 4 days ago had me at 3400ppm, Intellicenter is showing 3050ppm, current water temp is 68F. IC40 was set at 50% Output for both Pool and 20% for Spa. After seeing the higher FC level below, I adjusted them both to 20% Output. (Any feedback on the programming shown above is much appreciated!)

Here are my latest test results from last night:
FC 8.5
PH 8.2
TA 90
CH 200
CYA 50

I know these numbers are out of whack and have a basic idea of what I need to do - but I'm here to learn! I plan to get some acid in the pool today - how much/% is still TBD. I reduced the IC40 output since I'm up to FC 8.5, is that okay? I also need to get some CYA, should I get some dry stabilizer and hang it from a sock? CH still shows low.. PB added 10 lbs of CaCl 2 weeks ago - the level at the time for CH was 70 - do I need more now? I'm also trying to understand the order of operations for getting everything balanced. This will be my first visit to the local pool store, so I want to be prepared to get what I need and then get back home to adjust...

Also, last night I tried to test the salt level again with my Taylor test kit, since this is the first time my water temps had stabilized over the last 2 weeks with our recent warm up. I followed the instructions twice and both times, I never got the sample to turn to the brick red color, even after adding like 20+ drops - it just stayed white. Since I had a test 4 days ago at 3400ppm, I just assumed that was still valid and to sit tight - no salt has been added. I did order a SpeedStir this morning, so maybe that was the culprit..

Thanks,
Taylor
 

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The salt test is pretty easy without a spinner. If you quit at 20 drops (which equals 4000ppm) you might actually have a bit more salt in there than you think. I never trust the device to be all that "correct" but I do trust the drop test. Keep in mind the drop test has a known variance of +/- 400.

You know the pool guy added 400 pounds, which gives an aprox ~2800ppm. All those pucks and other chemicals that they've been using have also left some residual salt behind. I wonder if you'd gone up another drop or two on the salt test if you'd have gotten to 4200 or 4400ppm.

Maddie :flower:
 
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FC of 8.5 is not a big problem. Refer to FC/CYA Levels where you will see with CYA 50 you can go up to FC 20 and be safe to swim. Just let your FC drift down around 5 and then raise your SWG %.

Add MA to lower your pH to 7.6 - 7.8.

Your TA is fine.

Your CH is fine for now. What is the CH of your fill water? With summer evaporation your CH will rise as you add water.

You can add a bit of stabilizer to get your CYA up to 70 as you get towards the summer. No rush with that.

Your overall water chemistry looks ok. Only immediate adjustment needs to be lowering your pH.

You can buy everything you need at the big box stores. No reason to pay pool store markups.

Confirm you are using a 10ml sample on your K-1766 salt test?
 
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Is 20% output a good place to stay on the IC40 for now? Should it be set the same for both Pool and Spa? I'll keep an eye on FC to see how quickly it drifts over the next few days.

I'll do a CH test on the tap water to get a baseline... Confirmed that I used a 10ml sample on the salt test. I'll add the MA today and try and retest for salt tomorrow.
 
Tjs011 said:
Is 20% output a good place to stay on the IC40 for now?
Click to expand...

You have to learn what your chlorine consumption is on your pool in your environment this time of year. Chlorine consumption will increase as sun intensity increases and the days get longer.

Running your IC40 at 20% for 13 hours a day will generate 1.1 ppm of chlorine. Daily FC testing will tell you if your FC is dropping, which is good, or rising or staying the same, which means lower the % some more,


Tjs011 said:
Should it be set the same for both Pool and Spa? I'll keep an eye on FC to see how quickly it drifts over the next few days.
Click to expand...

I assume you have a spillover spa. Is your spillover running all the time when the pool is running?

You really do not need your SWG running much, if at all, when you are in your spa unless you soak in it for hours or have many people in it.

Assuming your spa is 800 gallons and you have it in SPA mode for an hour 20% will generate 1.7 ppm of chlorine in the spa. Your spa is not going to lose much chlorine in an hour of use.
 
@Tjs011 do NOT add that much MA yet. Can you please fill in your signature so we can see all of the details at a glance. I want to make sure of the size of your pool in gallons before anyone says anything about how much to add.

Go up to your name, click on it, that should pull down a window that has signature in it. Put in kind of pool (in or above ground, plaster, vinyl, size in gals. equipment details like kind of filter (sand, DE, cartridge) and what test kit(s) you are using.
 
kimkats said:
@Tjs011 do NOT add that much MA yet. Can you please fill in your signature so we can see all of the details at a glance. I want to make sure of the size of your pool in gallons before anyone says anything about how much to add.

Go up to your name, click on it, that should pull down a window that has signature in it. Put in kind of pool (in or above ground, plaster, vinyl, size in gals. equipment details like kind of filter (sand, DE, cartridge) and what test kit(s) you are using.
Click to expand...

Taylor has a full signature...

Taylor
17K gal, IG plaster, Intellicenter, Intelliflo VSP, 520 sqft Clean & Clear Plus filter, IC40 SCG, Pentair Warrior SE, TF 100 Test Kit, Taylor K-1766

30 oz of 31% MA will lower 17k pH by 0.4 and TA by 6.9
 
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