Aqua Rite-turns off after few seconds of generating
- Thread starter Jana616
- Start date
The thermistor has failed. If you can solder, you can replace it. SL322R025
www.digikey.com
SL32 2R025 Ametherm | Circuit Protection | DigiKey
Order today, ships today. SL32 2R025 – Inrush Current Limiter 2 Ohms ±20% 25 A 1.220" (31.00mm) from Ametherm. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
My husband can solder, and I definitely like the price point on that part! So you think it’s that and not the whole PCB? (Ours has that dark area that looks overheated). You think both the thermistor and the display board went out?
The whole pcb rarely fails. It's almost always the thermistor. I would try that first unless you see some damage that looks bad.
I'm not 100% sure about the display board now that the thermistor is bad. The problem might be just the thermistor.
With an older box, you can get multiple issues at the same time and it can be difficult to diagnose.
I'm not 100% sure about the display board now that the thermistor is bad. The problem might be just the thermistor.
With an older box, you can get multiple issues at the same time and it can be difficult to diagnose.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Put a binder clip on the Thermister. Yeah one of those things that holds a wad of paper together. It will hold it together and act as additional heatsink for it. If your controller runs longer then you know its the thermister for sure. Mine was cured with the binder clip hack.. but it was a temporary fix while I waited for my thermisters in the mail.
A little tip on soldering these things.. its easier to clip the leads and solder to the old legs than to desolder the old one.
A little tip on soldering these things.. its easier to clip the leads and solder to the old legs than to desolder the old one.
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Thank you both! New thermistor on the way and I’m going to try the binder clip tomorrow morning. He really appreciated the soldering tip too!
Let's see what the new parts do. Check the board from the back and touch up the solder where the black wire connects if it looks like it is weak.
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mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Wow. when I compare the pics you first posted with these you can see more discoloration on the board around the thermister and cracking has happened recently. That is caused by overheating. I bet the thermister is completely failed. I think I would turn off your controller until you get the new Thermister before something else gets damaged. I don't remember what the resistence across the leads is supposed to be but I think you'll find it has failed when you compare it to your new one. Here's a link I found buried in my stuff that you might find helpful. repairing-my-aqua-rite-that-was-damaged-by-lightning
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It could be possible that the current limiter in the upper right hand corner of the PCB board has failed or is in the process of failing. It should be HOT to the touch. If it's not, that's your problem and the part needs replacing. The limiter (aka thermistor or varistor) is the dime sized black thingy just to the right of the display board and left of the red and black wires.
That's already been identified as the likely problem.
Odd... many of those posts on Tues evening weren't there when I posted my response...oh well...glad it was resolved.
Thank you, thank you, thank you to all who offered help and advice! We soldered the new thermistor on yesterday morning and it fired right up! No issues since! I so appreciate all the help!
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
YEAH! another Thermister winner.... If your order was like mine, they sent two.. put the extra one inside the control box for next time! 
Well...we just got home from a day away. At first glance all looked well, the salt level showed on the display and the power and generating lights were on. I scrolled through the diagnostic numbers (I’m a little obsessive right now with the whole thing), and the amperage (I think? The one that should be around 7) was showing 0.00 and the one that should be -3200 (our salt level) was showing -0. I had had it set to super chlorinate since yesterday at noon so I switched it back to auto, and in the process kind of pushed on the cover for the display, etc. When I did that, it started showing 7.06 for the amperage and all other numbers look right.
So this seems like a bad connection somewhere? Or is there some other idea? The old thermistor was massively cracked when we removed it, so I do believe that was an issue, but maybe it’s not the only one
So this seems like a bad connection somewhere? Or is there some other idea? The old thermistor was massively cracked when we removed it, so I do believe that was an issue, but maybe it’s not the only one
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,499
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The super chlorinate had been on, but for longer than 24 hours. Then it reverts to your auto setting, right? It was showing 30P, not 100P. When it isn’t actively generating, the amperage should show zero??