Iron well filled please help

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duraleigh said:
It's not clear to me that you completed the SLAM. If you didn't, that must be done before you continue with stain removal, CH, etc.

What does your water look like? Have you passed the OCLT? Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) - Trouble Free Pool
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Good morning. Thank you for responding. Since I had posted last I did pass the overnight test. Pool is clear and all testing have been within range. I just tested and my calcium is low today. This is the second time that the calcium is running low. Today 100. Why would the calcium be going low. We have not used the pool yet this season. Idk if users make a difference or not. Thank you
 
Cburkett said:
calcium is running low. Today 100. Why would the calcium be going low.
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Good morning! :wave: CH (like CYA) doesn't just go away. It typically gets reduced by changing water. Lucky for us, our fiberglass pools don't have plaster in them that can erode from a low CH level. However it is a good idea to maintain some CH just to help prevent potential staining - something you are very familiar with. :) If your well water is soft, you may need to add a little calcium at some point each season. It just depends on how much water you change each season from rain over-flows, splash-out, etc. The CH test can also be a bit tricky for some. It was for me at first. Make sure you let the test solution mix and keep adding drops until you see a baby blue color, not purple.
 
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Texas Splash said:
Good morning! :wave: CH (like CYA) doesn't just go away. It typically gets reduced by changing water. Lucky for us, our fiberglass pools don't have plaster in them that can erode from a low CH level. However it is a good idea to maintain some CH just to help prevent potential staining - something you are very familiar with. :) If your well water is soft, you may need to add a little calcium at some point each season. It just depends on how much water you change each season from rain over-flows, splash-out, etc. The CH test can also be a bit tricky for some. It was for me at first. Make sure you let the test solution mix and keep adding drops until you see a baby blue color, not purple.
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Okay. Great. Thanks again for all your help. I'm finally starting to feel a little less anxiety about this pool. Wish I could find time to use it. lol.
 
Weird enough when I added calcium the slight staining DISAPPEARS

Texas Splash said:
Good morning! :wave: CH (like CYA) doesn't just go away. It typically gets reduced by changing water. Lucky for us, our fiberglass pools don't have plaster in them that can erode from a low CH level. However it is a good idea to maintain some CH just to help prevent potential staining - something you are very familiar with. :) If your well water is soft, you may need to add a little calcium at some point each season. It just depends on how much water you change each season from rain over-flows, splash-out, etc. The CH test can also be a bit tricky for some. It was for me at first. Make sure you let the test solution mix and keep adding drops until you see a baby blue color, not purple.
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duraleigh said:
Good that the stains are gone. I cannot think of a scenario where the calcium has anything to do with it.
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You're right. It must have been the sunlight. They're still there. Added some more metal magic. Since everything is testing well I'm going to pray the sequestering keeps me good through the summer. One of the moderators mentioned switching out water and dealing with everything when colder temps come. No worries for algae then. I think he was on to something. I definitely do not want to do yet another slam if I can help it. Thank you for responding.
 
Texas Splash said:
Either is acceptable. Salt water generators have an up-front cost that can be a problem for some, so manually adding chlorine (regular bleach) each day becomes the routine. But in either case, it's simply a way to add/produce free chlorine. SWG's produce chlorine and bleach adds it as well. Just depends on what a pool owner wishes to do.
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Hello. I'm still battling. I just got back from a 10 day vacation. I had a friend stay that took care of home dogs and pool. Gave testing instructions but it must not have gone well. She was also using the pool. I came home to
0 FC
0 CYA
I'm assuming from adding the sequestering it depleted the cya. Pool was testing perfectly when I left. She did the best she could. I started SLAM today. The water had a greenish tint so I'm sure I had algae even though I didn't see any growth. My question is would a SWCG system be easier to care for. Funds aren't an issue. We're extremely busy and though I'm learning a lot to care for the pool myself its overwhelming for our lifestyle. Thank you for any advice.
 
My question is would a SWCG system be easier to care for
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Absolutely. Far and away, the primary benefit of an SWG is convenience.

On another note, you posted some stuff that is confusing. CYA depleted? Sequestrant doesn't do that. In fact virtually nothing does that except to drain the water and refill. Also, you cannot SLAM with 0 CYA......there is NO suggested chlorine level.

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. That'll help you get things sorted out a bit and we'll all assist you as you learn.
 

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duraleigh said:
Absolutely. Far and away, the primary benefit of an SWG is convenience.

On another note, you posted some stuff that is confusing. CYA depleted? Sequestrant doesn't do that. In fact virtually nothing does that except to drain the water and refill. Also, you cannot SLAM with 0 CYA......there is NO suggested chlorine level.

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. That'll help you get things sorted out a bit and we'll all assist you as you learn.
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Great. Do you make equipment recommendations on this forum. I dont have any explanation of how zero cya. She was going away as I was coming home so I haven't gotten to talk with her. I know we got very heavy rains while I was away but I dont know if she kept the auto cover on or not. I should have mentioned on monday after testing the cya several times I added 6 lbs of dry stabilizer. I now have cya of 60. I initially only added 3 lbs but when testing it was still under 30 cya. That evening I added the additional 3lbs. I then started searching your forum about cya. I learned that it can take a couple days for it to break down. I shouldn't have added the additional 3lbs. I did vacuum the pool yesterday evening. This morning I'm going to switch out the cartridges in case there is any still there before it breaks down. After adding the stabilizer I started the SLAM process. I'm using the auto cover to help the chlorine during sunshine but opening for 30 minutes at a time after adding the bleach. When we are going to get some rain I'll open the auto cover to try and get cya back down some. Thank you for the help
 
duraleigh said:
Yes and no. There are plenty of members here who will suggest brands and models that they have had success with if they are asked but TFP does not endorse officially endorse any commercial enterprise.
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Okay. Thank you. All of my origianl equipment is pentair. Guessing a starting point would be contacting them then search your site for something they recommend to find some reviews
 
Well, you certainly don't have to have a pentair SWG. SWG's are quite universal and will match most equipment.

HERE is a link to an article in Pool School that gives a nice overview of what they do. After reading that you can simply post on the forum here that you are looking and if anyone has a pool about your size and if they have an SWG they have had good luck with.
 
Thank you!

duraleigh said:
Well, you certainly don't have to have a pentair SWG. SWG's are quite universal and will match most equipment.

HERE is a link to an article in Pool School that gives a nice overview of what they do. After reading that you can simply post on the forum here that you are looking and if anyone has a pool about your size and if they have an SWG they have had good luck with.
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Cburkett said:
Thank you!
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Question. Searching the forum for different answers I find that everyone runs their pools a different amount of hours. We were started out with an ionizer and ozone. The only way I could somewhat keep the copper consistent was to run 24/7. recently switching to chlorine we've continued to run 24/7. I assumed the more the pool is running and filtering the better. Is this correct for all pool systems
 
You are going to HATE this answer................it depends.....sigh............but it really does. Do you have a large swimmer load? Do you get a lot of debris in the pool? If so then you will need to keep it running more. If not then you will not need to run it as long. Run it as long as YOUR pool needs you to to keep it clean and the FC where it needs to be.
 
kimkats said:
You are going to HATE this answer................it depends.....sigh............but it really does. Do you have a large swimmer load? Do you get a lot of debris in the pool? If so then you will need to keep it running more. If not then you will not need to run it as long. Run it as long as YOUR pool needs you to to keep it clean and the FC where it needs to be.
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lol thank you. I'll keep it running all the time. Just wanted to double check ?
 
kimkats said:
You are going to HATE this answer................it depends.....sigh............but it really does. Do you have a large swimmer load? Do you get a lot of debris in the pool? If so then you will need to keep it running more. If not then you will not need to run it as long. Run it as long as YOUR pool needs you to to keep it clean and the FC where it needs to be.
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I also just found an article here on forums about run time. We do run our pool very warm in the summer. I made a post this morning questioning SWG. Once I get some feedback and order a system this is something I'll have to keep an eye on and adjust
 
Cburkett said:
My question is would a SWCG system be easier to care for.
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A SWG certainly has its advantages. No more jug-dumping, but you do still have to test the FC and occasionally the salt level. While the SWG may appear effortless, you still need to ensure it's operating properly, hence the FC testing. But with SWGs, we recommend a higher CYA level (70-80) which for SWGs allows the FC range to be lower than with a non-salt pool. In that regard, the lower FC level may be beneficial to your iron situation.
 

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