Thank you for the responses. I checked the chemicals early this morning.
FC - 30
CYA - 40
Checked everything else, but no need to report since FC and CYA are what is important at this point.
Unfortunately, I work long hours during the week, so it is hard to check chemicals frequently. Won't be able to check again until very early morning in the dark.
I will target FC of 24. I do brush whenever I can. Also run Dolphin automatic cleaner, and bleach filters are each use.
So, I read through this entire thing while bored at work (I'm here only in case something goes wrong at the moment) and I hope you don't mind me sharing some of my thoughts, to try and get this solved for you.
Firstly, I think you need to
do a detailed read of the SLAMing article. There are a couple indications in my readthrough that seem to show you haven't fully read and/or understood the article. One such is that you have continued to test everything, despite many people telling you there is no need to. In fact, it's more than that there is no need, it's that the results may not be trustworthy, and as such, less that worthless. When the FC is above 10, the pH reading will be wrong. The chlorine oxidies the reagent and changes the color. The reagent used in the pH test neutralizes the FC in the test sample to avoid this unfortunate result but there is only enough to neutralize a FC up to 10. Therefore the test is invalid if the FC is measured at more than 10, and should not be done. At extremely high levels, other tests can start getting screwed up, as you discovered last year.
In short, check/adjust the pH before beginning a SLAM, and do not test it (or anything except FC/CC) until the SLAM is done and the FC drops below 10.
Secondly, are you 100% certain you are following the directions correctly for FC readings? I noticed that last year, you kept posting results to 0.2 ppm accuracy (25 mL sample level) for a while. After several people said to use a 10 mL sample, it seemed to me that your FC readings jumped. I just want to be sure that this was a coincidence and not bad testing technique. Two scoops powder, then add reagent until clear, multiplying drops by 0.5 (10 drops = 5 ppm, 20 drops = 10 ppm). Be sure the bottom of the
meniscus lines up with the 10 mL mark. If you have and use a SpeedStir (HIGHLY recommended!), be sure to measure the water before adding the magnet.
Pro tip: I discovered that the normal saline syringes my nurse wife always is bringing home on accident are awesome for quickly getting an exact 10 mL sample. Fill, empty (to rinse), then fill, tip upside down to push bubbles to top, squeeze until rubber lines up with 10 mL mark, then squeeze into mixing tube on the SpeedStir. Something like this.
Well I am sure all of you who read this thought, we if they can attend to their pool daily, nothing will get resolved. Yep, you are right. Haven't checked the pool for two days, and I just got home from work to see algae back in the bottom of the pool. Tested FC - 12 and CYA - 30 only. I am going to be able to babysit the pool for the next three days.
According to old pool math, it says I need two jugs of bleach and 6 lbs. or 1+ gallons of stabilizer. I think I read where you should not put bleach in the pool the same time as stabilizer. Not sure which is more critical, so I am going to start with bleach tonight. I am going to take the cartridge filters out tomorrow and clean them thoroughly. Plan to get in the pool and scrub the walls too.
Appreciate you sticking with me
Yes, you need to check the pool more than once a day during a SLAM. Ideally, from what I read, multiple times a day, but a minimum of once at night and once in the morning. They need regular checks and additions even outside of SLAM, which ideally will prevent the pool from needing SLAM in the first place.
The good news is, you got this last year, and you
can get it again this year. The more often you check and adjust the FC, the faster you will finish your SLAM. And as you've seen, this forum is filled with knowledgeable, helpful people to assist you through the process.
Good luck, you got this!
Wish I would have realizes this years ago. Always thought, because of 60*(not recommended) in CYA/FC chart. That CYA Had to be 70-80 for SWG pools.
In order to start the SLAM
The article on SLAMing mentions this:
SLAMing an outdoor pool is most effective when CYA is around 30 to 40. Below 30 you lose too much chlorine to sunlight. As CYA goes up, SLAMing requires more and more chlorine, which starts to get impractical around 80 or 90. With CYA above 90 we recommend replacing water to get CYA down before you start the SLAM process.
www.troublefreepool.com
