Just received my tf 100 test kit, light green water

Aleila

0
Mar 19, 2018
71
South Florida
Hi All,

Just received my TF100 test kit. Pool water is slightly green. Have been neglecting my pool but determined to do better. Just put 2.5 gallons of chlorine from Pool Store in. How long should I wait to start testing the water?
Thanks.
 
I think something is wrong with your FC & CC testing method. Those results do not look reasonable.

Do you remember what size water sample? How many drops did it take to change color? What did you multiply the number of drops by?

What is your pH?

What do you use to chlorinate your pool?

Was stabilizer/CYA ever added to your water?
 
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I think something is wrong with your FC & CC testing method. Those results do not look reasonable.
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I will redo the test.
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Do you remember what size water sample?

I took a large sample from the bottle the local pool supply store gives for testing and then transferred that water into the water sample cylinders from the kit. Should I be taking a sample straight from the pool for each test?
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How many drops did it take to change color? For the FC it took a whopping 110 drops. I am afraid I am going to run through the reagent on the first few tests! IWhat did you multiply the number of drops by? Multiplied by 0.5

Does the water have to be perfectly clear with no trace of pink?

What is your pH? Just realized that I skipped the Daily Tests on the laminated card and went straight to the Weekly Tests... uggh. Will do it again correctly.

What do you use to chlorinate your pool? Chlorine from local pool store

Was stabilizer/CYA ever added to your water? Long time ago. Hubby had a major stroke and I have been distracted and neglected our pool. Getting back to it now.
 
Sorry to hear about your hubbys problems but glad to hear things are good enough for you to get back to your pool.

What is your pH? Just realized that I skipped the Daily Tests on the laminated card and went straight to the Weekly Tests... uggh. Will do it again correctly.

So do the pH test and also do the color OTO chlorine test. The chlorine test only goes up to FC5 but it will give you an idea what to expect when you do the FAS/DPD CL test.

Note that if your CL is really over 10 then your pH test will not be valid.

What do you use to chlorinate your pool? Chlorine from local pool store

Can you say how much chlorine of what type and % you added when over the last week. That would let us estimate the range you FC should be. I would expect you have very little FC - maybe 1 - 3 - since you have no CYA. Unless you are really dumping the CL into the pool.

I took a large sample from the bottle the local pool supply store gives for testing and then transferred that water into the water sample cylinders from the kit. Should I be taking a sample straight from the pool for each test?

It shouldn't make a big difference. But I do dip the CL water sample tube right into my pool and pull a sample.

For the FC it took a whopping 110 drops. I am afraid I am going to run through the reagent on the first few tests! IWhat did you multiply the number of drops by? Multiplied by 0.5

Were you swirling constantly as you added the drops? Do you have the Speedstir Magnetic Stirrer? The Speedstir really helps ensure the test is accurate.

You did use lots of reagent in this first test. A proper FC for CYA 30 is 4-6. So that would take 8-12 drops. That is really all you should be using.

Review the FS/DPD CL test instructions here --> FAS-DPD Chlorine Test - Trouble Free Pool

Before you do the FAS/DPD test again, do the OTO CL test and answer the question above about how much of what type of CL you have been adding to your pool.

Does the water have to be perfectly clear with no trace of pink?

Yes, water should go clear for end of test.

Was stabilizer/CYA ever added to your water? Long time ago.

Then it is reasonable that CYA is close to 0.

BTW, your signature says your pool is 8,600K gallons. I think you mean 8.6K or 8,600 gallons.
 
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For the FC test, when you poured the water into the test vial, did you fill to the 10 ml mark or 25 ml mark?

In a previous thread, you mentioned your water is green, a SLAM may be in your future.
 
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For an 8,600 gallon pool:

2.5 gallons of 6% CL would raise FC by 18
2.5 gallons of 10% CL would raise FC by 29
2.5 gallons of 12.5% CL would raise FC by 36

You probably do have a high FC. Much more then you need with CYA 0.

Please download the PoolMath app and use it to calculate the effects of adding chemicals.
 
For the FC test, when you poured the water into the test vial, did you fill to the 10 ml mark or 25 ml mark?

You win the prize tonight I think.

If she tested with 25ml you multiply by .2 and her FC would be 22. That agrees with adding 2.5 gallons of 6% -10% chlorine.
 
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You win the prize tonight I think.

If she tested with 25ml you multiply by .2 and her FC would be 22. That agrees with adding 2.5 gallons of 6% -10% chlorine.

Thanks Allen; you read my mind. If it came in a 2.5 gallon jug, it was likely 12.5% which would take FC up to 36. But with algae, 22 sounds about right after a day or so.
 
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Hello,
I redid the tests this morning. I will list the results and answer the questions right after.

OTO CL Test - Deep Orange color
OTO PH Test - 8.2 Deep Pink Color (darker than vial color for 8.2 result.)

TF100 Kit Tests
FC - 64 drops / 32 PPM
CC - 0
TC - 32 PPM
Calcium Hardness - light pinkish, never turned blue stopped at 65 drops. I know I used too much but I wanted to be thorough. I expect to re-up on the reagents at this point!

TA - 150 (blue to yellow)
CYA - Never got cloudy

Rancho -
I added 5 gallons of 10.5% Chlorine bleach from Local Pinch a Penny.

I used 10 mL sample vial for the FC test and stirred constantly but will buy the Speedstir.
AJW22, thank you very much. It is rough but I am grateful he survived.

I downloaded the premium Poolmath and added test results.

I edited my signature.

Thanks!
 
At this point I am not sure what you are trying to accomplish? Are you chlorinating your pool for what you think is normal? Or are you trying to follow the SLAM Process process to clear algae?

You are over chlorinating for either and just wasting chlorine.

Your pH test is not valid due to high FC. PH test is only valid when FC is below 10.

You have your TF-100 tests now what do you want to accomplish with it?

You need to add stabilizer up to 30. With that you need a FC of 4-6 for normal chlorination.
 
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What Allen said. Plus -- the CH test. It may have been messed up by the high FC level. In Florida you should get lots of rain and thus the buildup in calcium should not occur. Has the pool had large amounts of calcium hypochlorite (granular chlorine) used in it?
 
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At this point I am not sure what you are trying to accomplish? Are you chlorinating your pool for what you think is normal? Or are you trying to follow the SLAM Process process to clear algae?

You are over chlorinating for either and just wasting chlorine.

Your pH test is not valid due to high FC. PH test is only valid when FC is below 10.

You have your TF-100 tests now what do you want to accomplish with it?

You need to add stabilizer up to 30. With that you need a FC of 4-6 for normal chlorination.

I am honestly not sure what to do - new to this. I want to get rid of the greenish tinge and restore to crystal clear, so I guess I need to SLAM.

I added a bunch of chlorine because we have had lots of rain lately and knew I needed CL.
 
What Allen said. Plus -- the CH test. It may have been messed up by the high FC level. In Florida you should get lots of rain and thus the buildup in calcium should not occur. Has the pool had large amounts of calcium hypochlorite (granular chlorine) used in it?

I use to use the chlorine pucks but have moved to just adding liquid chlorine (10.5%) from Pinch a Penny.

Poolmath is recommending
26 ounces of 31.45% Muriatic acid for PH
2 lbs 14 ounces of dry stabilizer for CYA
Is this Baking Soda?
And replacing 44 percent of pool water!

Not sure what to do next. SLAM or Poolmath recommendations.
I appreciate all of your input from you all.
 
With your super high chlorine level for a 0 CYA the only thing you should do is add 30 ppm worth of CYA.

The caveat to that is the CH. It's test must be messed up by the high chlorine. If you used to use trichlor and now have a 0 CYA, your pool water must have been replaced by rain water in a large way.
 
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