First time pool owner, have an awful time and need advice on drain issue

Hi, Ok we did the test:

Results--CYA is under 20 (probably 0)
Chlorine--Under 0.5
pH--Above 8.2
Alkalinity--TA 160
According to the pool math I think my pool is 41k gallons.

Where is the SLAM Chart?? Can someone send a link for that.

Now what?? I don't have any bleach but it's close to 9pm and I can't do it now. So I guess I'll be starting this process tomorrow, Friday, after work.
 
TF-100 Kit Results-Green Pool-Need Step by Step Help

Hi All,

We tried to open our pool up on 6/18 and we've been battling it since then. Tons of leaves and dirt that we're still trying to remove. Here are the results of our test kit and not sure what to do next.

Results--CYA is under 20 (probably 0)
Chlorine--Under 0.5
pH--Above 8.2
Alkalinity--TA 160
According to the pool math I think my pool is 41k gallons.

Where is the SLAM Chart?? Can someone send a link for that.

All Help Is Greatly Appreciated!
 
Re: TF-100 Kit Results-Green Pool-Need Step by Step Help

I replied to you on your other thread. Starting new threads just confuses things and loses all your prior information.
 
Thanks for the feedback but can you point me in the right direction of finding out what I have to do to adjust anything. I need the step before this. I'm not sure what raising my CYA level means or what to do or the PH or raising the FC to 12. Totally lost.

CYA is stabilizer

IMG_0309(1).jpg

You add it using the sock method. Fill a sock with it and let it dangle in your pool in front of a return. CYA takes a few days to dissolve. You can help it by kneading the sock like dough every few hours.

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You lower PH by pouring Muratic Acid into the pool. Be careful handling MA.

Do not add MA and chlorine at the same time.

For chlorine folks use plain liquid bleach. No scents or other additives.

Use PoolMath to figure out the quantities needed.

Add CYA in 2 or 3 batches. Folks seem to overshoot the CYA targets. So add it in batches and test in between and see how you are doing. CYA takes 3 days or so to totally dissolve and show in the tests.

Mod Note: You do not want the sock of CYA resting against the side of the pool. It is a mild acid and could damage or fade the pool surface. Suspend it from your pool brush or net away from the side in the return jet. jblizzle
 
If you are starting with 0 CYA, no need to test for the CYA right after adding. If you added it to the water, it is in there.
 

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If you are starting with 0 CYA, no need to test for the CYA right after adding. If you added it to the water, it is in there.

Many new pool owners seem to get their pool size and gallons wrong initially and don't end up with the CYA level they expect.

Seem to be too many posts of I added the PoolMath amount of stabilizer and my CYA is now higher than planned.
 
Soooo my husband is freaked out about using MA, thinking it's too dangerous. He doesn't want to use it, now what? We are leaning towards dry acid instead, assuming that will take longer. Correct assumption?

Also, I plugged in 8.2 and 7.2 in the PH area in the pool math and the area that is supposed to populate for acids is 0 so I have no clue how much to buy for my pool.
 
Dry acid won't take longer, its just more expensive to use. I think Jason was trying to suggest you put the acid in the pool instead of your husband. At least I think that is what that last sentence is supposed to say! I think I estimated your pool to be about 35,000-40,000 gallons based on the length x width and the diving board. If you do the initial doses of chemicals based on a 35,000 gallon pool and then re-test after 30 minutes it should give us a good idea how close the gallon estimate is. Post before and after dose tests on the FC and that should give us a rough idea.

Up at the top of PoolMath the first orange block says "size". That is where you enter gallons for your pool. Enter 35000 for the size and we can find out if that is close to the true measurement. Over the weekend you can measure the depth with a 20' tape measure.
 
Yes, I think we're at 20x40 and we think the shallow is 3feet and estimate that the deep is 8. So that puts me around 33k or so.

Regarding the MA. He thinks I'm crazy to even think about doing it. He went on to give me a laundry list of how dangerous it is so I don't want to cause more tension in the house. The pool is really draining our lives right now and this is our last ditch effort, I don't want to ruffle any more feathers lol.

Sooo Don't laugh, I don't understand how to do the math for this calculation of the acid. Can you see this photo?
Imgur: The magic of the Internet


 
Don't be scared of the MA. It is dangerous stuff while in the bottle, but diluted in the pool will become nothing! You really need it to lower the pH level to start the SLAM process. You don't want to add it and chlorine within 30 minutes of each other though. Best to get the pH where it needs to be before adding your chlorine because the readings during the SLAM will screw up the pH reading.

Getting the CYA in the pool first will help keep the FC levels from dropping faster due to sunlight.

<<<<----Look, I am a new guy to this too, but reading enough will help you learn all that you need to know.

I'm not sure anyone has mentioned this yet, but how is your filter? A clean filter to start this whole process will help a lot. Cleaning it frequently during the process will also help.

This is the stuff you need to up your CYA and can be found at Wal-Mart.

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https://www.walmart.com/ip/Clorox-Pool-and-Spa-Pool-Chlorine-Stabilizer-4-lbs/41466055

The PoolMath says you need a little over 9 lbs for a 35K gallon pool. I'd shoot a little low and add 8 lbs which is two jars of the above. That'll get you up to 30 CYA. The sock method was mentioned before, but maybe you should use an old pair of panty hose. Make sure there isn't any holes so the granules don't fall out. The panty hose will release the CYA quicker. Might not even have to squeeze them, but I would anyways to get it mixed up quicker.

Now, while the CYA is being dispersed (pump will need to be running through this), add in some MA. PoolMath says you'd need 159 oz of 31% concentrated MA for 35K gallon pool to get from an 8.2 pH reading down to 7.2 with a TA of 160. I would probably start with a gallon and see what happens after letting it circulate for a while.

Once you tested the pH and it is where it needs to be....rub your hands together, cross your toes, click your heels together and say there is no place like swimming in a clean pool!

Wal-Mart again.... This is the cheapest bleach I could find that has the same amount of chlorine as the name brand stuff. You're gonna get some goofy looks buying a bunch, so use the self check out lane. :D Seriously, buy a bunch now so you don't have to go back for more late at night.

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PoolMath along with the Chlorine/CYA chart says you need 7 1/4 GALLONS :crazy::crazy::crazy: to get your FC from a 0 to a 12 to start the SLAM process (using the 5.7% available Chlorine as written on the bottle and a suspected CYA of 30). This is why liquid chlorine from a pool store with a higher rated chlorine percentage is recommended. Close to the same cost, but use up to half the amount.

BAMM, you've started the SLAM. Sit back, drink a beer, tell the hubby how good you are doing? NOPE. Wait an hour or two and test the FC again.

This is where you will need to figure out the PoolMath. Because now the FC reading might be 6 or 4 or 2 and the amount you are going to need to add back in will be less than when you started. The more you can test and add in more chlorine, the faster the SLAM will happen and the sooner you CAN sit back, drink a beer, tell the hubby how good you DID!

Don't forget the filters! That junk has to get pulled out of the water and your filter is your friend!

If I screwed anything up here, please let me know.
 

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