Help green pool

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Hey Jive,

It's gonna take a little time, if you can, do your "visual" test around the same time each day and keep taking a picture like you are. Light can make things look better and worse. So keep that in mind. You have your test kit, you know where you are at, so just let the SLAM do its thing.

Most of us think of Shock or Shocking a pool as a 1 time event (because it has been sold for many years as an Instant Gratification), it is not and this is where I struggled with it because I added it, I did what I was supposed to do.. what is taking so long. I am very impatient.

Shock
Level
And
Maintain

It is the maintain part where folks fail because they have no real way to test to know what they are maintaining which leads down a road that you have been down before I would assume as many of us have.

So, now you have tested, now you are in Maintain, and you are doing great by the way, so keep it up!

and yes, I do plan to CHEER you all the way through this!! :kim:
 
My pool is still cloudy but my guess is that the TC is still high. This morning, about 630 am I tested and it was 12.5 I just tested now, about 530pm, and it was 10.5
e579f18a32d335f3b181d87b2b607bb1.jpg
 
That color looks darker in today than it did yday. That filter is working it's butt off. Sweet! Yep, just keep that FC at the appropriate SLAM level for you and watch it work. My pool today is also showing me good signs of life. Just in time for Memorial Day folks! Yee Haa!
 
That's looking better. I am going to ask a dumb question just out of curiosity. It looks like there is a return right beside the skimmer disturbing the water. Is that the setup?
 
Yeah my setup is the same way. My return eyeball jet is literally right next to the skimmer, which kind of does disrupt filtration a little bit depending on how I want the skimmer to skim accurately. When I point my eyeball downwards towards the floor it blows all of the debris up off the floor up onto the water surface and then it gets sucked back into the skimmer eventually. To get around this, in replacement of the eyeball jet I just simply screw in a 90-degree elbow, then I aim the elbow towards the side of the pool without aerating the water and creating splashes on the water's surface if I don't want to raise the ph by aerating the water. What this accomplishes is, it will end up creating a whirlpool in my pool, and send all the debris on the surface of the water into the skimmer a little bit more effectively on the right side of the skimmer since my return jet is to the left of the skimmer. I don't know if I've mentioned it on this thread but I have mentioned it all week long on other threads. To effectively and quickly filter out algae, cloudy blue water, etc, and polish up my water at 5 Micron since my cartridge filter is only 10 micron, I attach a Duda Diesel bag to a 90-degree elbow, and screw that in place of my eyeball jet. It eventually turns my water glass clear.

I've Open my pool for the third time this year in 6 years green due to neglect in the fall because of work, having kids, failed pool covers, excetera. My pool was green this previous Saturday when I opened it. I cleared it to Crystal Clear using the SLAM method, and my Duda Diesel bag in 5-6 days. I have been using the bag to polish my water for the last 3 years, and implementing triple filtration by using skimmer socks, my primary cartridge filtration, and The Duda Diesel Bag.

Individual results may vary depending on your size pump and size of pool and circumstances.

Any further questions about the Duda Diesel Bag post your thread here, and I will send you further information. It can be had on eBay for $5 to $6.

You would think that I would be getting a commission from them with all the recommendations I've been making on this bag. Lol. There are other similar products out there that serve the same function, such as biobag, or other types of fine fabrics that are 5 micron. This is just what has worked for me over the last 3 years.
 
RobertScalchi said:
Yeah my setup is the same way. My return eyeball jet is literally right next to the skimmer, which kind of does disrupt filtration a little bit depending on how I want the skimmer to skim accurately. When I point my eyeball downwards towards the floor it blows all of the debris up off the floor up onto the water surface and then it gets sucked back into the skimmer eventually. To get around this, in replacement of the eyeball jet I just simply screw in a 90-degree elbow, then I aim the elbow towards the side of the pool without aerating the water and creating splashes on the water's surface if I don't want to raise the ph by aerating the water. What this accomplishes is, it will end up creating a whirlpool in my pool, and send all the debris on the surface of the water into the skimmer a little bit more effectively on the right side of the skimmer since my return jet is to the left of the skimmer. I don't know if I've mentioned it on this thread but I have mentioned it all week long on other threads. To effectively and quickly filter out algae, cloudy blue water, etc, and polish up my water at 5 Micron since my cartridge filter is only 10 micron, I attach a Duda Diesel bag to a 90-degree elbow, and screw that in place of my eyeball jet. It eventually turns my water glass clear.

I've Open my pool for the third time this year in 6 years green due to neglect in the fall because of work, having kids, failed pool covers, excetera. My pool was green this previous Saturday when I opened it. I cleared it to Crystal Clear using the SLAM method, and my Duda Diesel bag in 5-6 days. I have been using the bag to polish my water for the last 3 years, and implementing triple filtration by using skimmer socks, my primary cartridge filtration, and The Duda Diesel Bag.

Individual results may vary depending on your size pump and size of pool and circumstances.

Any further questions about the Duda Diesel Bag post your thread here, and I will send you further information. It can be had on eBay for $5 to $6.

You would think that I would be getting a commission from them with all the recommendations I've been making on this bag. Lol. There are other similar products out there that serve the same function, such as biobag, or other types of fine fabrics that are 5 micron. This is just what has worked for me over the last 3 years.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure if it was you or not, but I was told a couple of times about the bag however I'm not handy and well my husband doesn't even know what a hammer is. That's the only reason why it's not hooked up to my pool now. I do have a skimmer basket filter coming on Monday. I'm going to see how it works. Its was 24 cents so it's not an issue if it doesn't work.
 
I'm going to have a discussion here that may be subject to controversy by our moderators here at TFP. Hopefully they are in agreeance with my opinion and experience, that it is in line with their teachings.

I think we can all agree that chlorine sanitizes our pools.... Unless another method such as bromine or bacquil is implemented.

I think we can also all agree that filtration is what provides water clarity, and keeps our water clean and clear looking.

That being said....This is just my scientific opinion, as well as experience and observation of clearing a green pool 3 seasons out
of 6 seasons.

If I were to shock or SLAM a green pool which had an algae outbreak, and the pool was green because of such, and not due to copper, iron or other metals in the water reacting to different chemicals. If I were to shock or SLAM a pool to elevated chlorine levels at their proper ratio to CYA and maintain those levels over the course of days, or a week or two.
WITHOUT RUNNING ANY FILTRATION.
The water will eventually turn from green, to clear green, to turquoise, and even possibly cloudy blue.

Why? Because the elevated chlorine levels are killing the algae, and its biofilm if the pool is scrubbed properly. The chlorine is changing the color of the water.

Now. If I wasn't to add any chlorine, and just filter the infected algae water, (preferrably at a high micron such as 5 micron.) I would wind up with a clear green water, where I can still see the bottom. My filters would load up very fast. But none the less clear green but still slimy water. I verified such this year by filtering the algae water first, and used less bleach to kill the algae after it was filter.

I changed a pool from green to clear green using filtration, then added in my SLAM levels of chlorine. I cleared my pool to crystal clear in 5 to 6 days, and consumes less chlorine as a result of such. I probably only added in 3 to 4 gallons of 6% bleach for a 7200 gallon pool to maintain shock levels.

When you run the SLAM at elevated chlorine levels, you are killing the algae, which turns the algae from green to white eventually, and when you filter it out during a SLAM, it comes out as either brown or white residue in your filters.

So typically if you have a cloudy pool. It is usually because of a few reasons. Either the water chemistry is off for whatever reason, or you have white dead algae in the water, and it needs to be filtered out at a high micron such as 5 micron to enhance water clarity to clear.

Typically your water clarity prism with an algae infection, in the most extreme form, goes from dark brown, black, to green, to clear green, to turquoise aqua green, to cloudy blue, to dull clear, to crystal sparkling clear.

Some people here at TFP have stated that if you don't sanitize your water and run the SLAM, no amount filtration will help you. I beg to differ in opinion. I like to hold the filtration process just as equally as important as the sanitation process, as they hold an inter-working relationship.

I have proven this as stated above. I have filtrated my water to clear green water just using filtration, and no chlorine.

I have also just elevated my levels of chlorine using the SLAM procedure to shock levels, during one year, when I open to a green pool due to algae, and had a cracked return jet.
I just simply stirred in the chlorine without using any filtration, until I made my repairs with my return jet, and enabled filtration.

So if your water is cloudy blue, unless it is water chemistry and balance related, usually after an algae sanitation process, the algae is white and you still have some filtering, (preferably at a finer micron to speed the clearing process up) to do.
 
My pool is still cloudy today so I ran all the tests and below are my results:
CI-5
BR-10
PH-7.5
FC-6.5
CC-1
CYA-40
CH-125
TA-130
if I am reading this correctly it looks like my CH is too low and my TA is too high. We also have not seen the sun in days and it's been raining so I'm not sure if that makes a difference. I still vacuum the pool and shrub the walls every day. It's only about 60 here too
a867d535892d5c455e2a85232714882a.jpg
 
Jive5877 said:
My pool is still cloudy today so I ran all the tests and below are my results:
CI-5
BR-10
PH-7.5
FC-6.5
CC-1
CYA-40
CH-125
TA-130
if I am reading this correctly it looks like my CH is too low and my TA is too high. We also have not seen the sun in days and it's been raining so I'm not sure if that makes a difference. I still vacuum the pool and shrub the walls every day. It's only about 60 here too
a867d535892d5c455e2a85232714882a.jpg
Click to expand...
Did you get the test kit (and din;t update your signature) or are these test strip numbers?

During a SLAM Process we ignore all tests except FC/CC

CH & TA have noting to do with your cloudy pool.

What kind of filter does the pool have?

Please edit your signature and add the following information so we can better frame our answers to you.


  • List what test kit you use to test your water
  • If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground)
  • If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass
  • The type filter you have (sand, DE, cartridge)
  • If you know, tell us the make and model of your pump and filter.
  • List any other equipment you have: SWG, second pump, etc.
  • Please mention if you fill the pool from a well or are currently on water restrictions

Information in your signature will show up each time you post and it makes advice more accurate as we know what equipment we are dealing with.
 

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Don't worry about any numbers/tests besides FC/CC until you are done SLAMming. Especially CH.

Am I imagining it or can I see I leaf or something on the bottom of the pool in the lower part of the picture?
 
The cloudiness of the pool is most likely due to dead white algae as a result of the SLAM that needs to be filtered out.

Depending on your filtration system and the Micron size that it can filter, it may not be able to get all the fine suspended particles out of the pool.

You can try keep running it for another week and see if it clears.

You basically have two choices at this part in the game. You can flocculent the fine suspended debris to the floor and vacuum it to waste out of the pool, but since flocculant is not recommended here at TFP.

My other suggestion for filtering on fine debris has been suggested in previous posts by using The Duda diesel bag at 5 micron.

Installation is simple no special tools are required, it works very efficiently and only takes 60 seconds or less.

I will take a picture of my setup and procedure of installation when I get home from Mother's Day brunch
 
Jive5877 said:
Other sites tell me to use a clarifier to help coagulate the small particles to larger ones for my filter to grab them. What is the thought on that?
Click to expand...
Nope, don't do it. Flocks and clarifiers can cause more problems then they fix.

What kind of filter do your have?

Maybe edit your signature and add the following information so we can better frame our answers to you.


  • List what test kit you use to test your water
  • The size of your pool in gallons
  • If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground)
  • If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass
  • The type filter you have (sand, DE, cartridge)
  • If you know, tell us the make and model of your pump and filter.
  • List any other equipment you have: SWG, second pump, etc.
  • Please mention if you fill the pool from a well or are currently on water restrictions
 
tim5055 said:
Nope, don't do it. Flocks and clarifiers can cause more problems then they fix.

What kind of filter do your have?

Maybe edit your signature and add the following information so we can better frame our answers to you.


  • List what test kit you use to test your water
  • The size of your pool in gallons
  • If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground)
  • If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass
  • The type filter you have (sand, DE, cartridge)
  • If you know, tell us the make and model of your pump and filter.
  • List any other equipment you have: SWG, second pump, etc.
  • Please mention if you fill the pool from a well or are currently on water restrictions
Click to expand...
I have been trying to edit my signature for three days and it just wont let me. I have a blue torrent cartridge filter. I also have the frog sanitizer attached to my vinyl above ground pool. The size of the pool is 24x54.
 
Jive5877 said:
Other sites tell me to use a clarifier to help coagulate the small particles to larger ones for my filter to grab them. What is the thought on that?
Click to expand...

Jive, I floc'd and clarified every season before I got saved by TFP. Save the $10-$20 bucks. It really just creates more headaches. At the end of the day, now that you know how to kill algae, if you want your water to clear faster then you have to look at the filtration system choices you have available to you. Sand is slowest, Cartridge and then DE. Each with their own pros & cons. But adding to the water to speed up the clarity is just not worth it imo.
 
Well, you have added another twist to the plot. You need to kill that frog sanitizer. The cartridges are overpriced and they add minerals (read copper) to your water that build up an turn folks hair green.

Cartridge filters are very slow at removing the final fine particles from a pool. It just takes time.
 
tim5055 said:
Well, you have added another twist to the plot. You need to kill that frog sanitizer. The cartridges are overpriced and they add minerals (read copper) to your water that build up an turn folks hair green.

Cartridge filters are very slow at removing the final fine particles from a pool. It just takes time.
Click to expand...
Oh I should mention I have the frog but nothing in it right now. I was going to ask if i should use it or not
 
Ok here is my duda diesel bag setup.
Typically you would just need a flathead screwdriver to attach and remove a hose clamp, but I've eliminated that inconvenience, by using a turnkey hose clamp. You can find them at the register at your local auto parts store for like $4.

All you need is the duda diesel bag 5 micron. ($5) The hose clamp ($4), and the Hayward 90 degree elbow. Part #: SPX1105Z4 ($4-$6) and a skimmer sock or fine hair net.

The bag will perform the same function as using DE by polyester fiber filtration at 5 micron. It will polish the water crystal clear without having backwash as frequently or floc and drain.
 

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