New F/Glass build DownUnder - Adelaide - What have I let myself in for?... :)

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Well did something dumb today - Started off thinking smart but that did not last long.

Added 1Kg (start off slowly) of CYA powder in today.

Used the nylon stocking in the skimmer box method but had also read about people massaging their socks etc to help dissolve the powder.

Thought - Yep I can do that. It was actually quite therapeutic sitting in the sun next to my skimmer box massaging the CYA - a bit like 'ye olde' stress ball I reckon.

While this indeed sped up the process, one thing I did not even consider was my cyclonic pre-filter working all too well.

Here is a photo just after adding 1Kg of CYA - I think more than half of the added CYA ended up being captured within the cyclonic filter....:hammer:

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Write note to oneself - Do not speed up the dissolving process!


The cyclonic filter has next to no flow at the bottom of the visible canister. Only way to shift it is to wait for a few millenniums for the CYA to dissolve on its own or by emptying the chamber into a bucket to stir up the captured CYA.

Only problem is that only some of the powder is stirred up when filling a bucket via the cyclonic filter's tap. I have then been pouring that bucket back into the skimmer which then flows back with some passing through the cyclonic filter and some CYA ends up being captured again.

I was in a rush this morning (Mother's day functions) so I only managed to cycle a few buckets from the cyclonic filter back into the skimmer - I think I have a job cut out for me this week after work...:)

Next photo is after a couple of buckets emptying the cyclone and pouring contents back into skimmer to help dissolve the CYA.

2 steps forward - 1 step back methinks.


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Some is obviously getting through as my PH dropped as expected. Decided to run the bubblers all day to lift the PH - Seemed to do the job as PH was back to around 7.4 tonight yet was below 7.0 this morning with CYA added.

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I say just put the CYA in a sock and hang it in front of your return to get it out that way. This will keep it out of the cyclone...........that thing is crazy good! I almost think the nylon you are using is too open weave as it is letting the CYA out as granules instead of dissolving and coming out as a powder. Get a thicker sock to put it in and hang in front of a return. Just make sure it cannot touch the plaster.

Kim:kim:
 

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riley00dog said:
Your water is looking amazing!
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Yes water is really clear.

Returned home late this evening around 8pm. Switched on the pool lights to take a water sample for today's testing - water was dead calm and it looked like their was no water in the pool.

BTW my test results showed my FC chlorine levels are quite high tonight (10ppm) and today we had full sun for the whole day.

So I will be backing off the SWCG another two steps (down to 25% output, currently set to 50%) for tomorrow's run.
 
riley00dog said:
Will interesting to see what it settles at being the big one.
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Well, I checked my FC level this afternoon after work and it is still hovering around 10..!

So tomorrow I'll back the SWCG off to 12% (minimum drive available but also reduce the run time by say 2 hrs and see how much the FC drops.



On a lighter note - I worked out a neat method to flush the cyclone canister.

I found that if I stopped the pool pump and then open the drain tap for the cyclone filter, air would rush in and force water out from the cyclone into my main filter.

I did this 3 or so times until the majority of undissolved CYA was disturbed & flushed into the main filter. I then emptied the remaining lower level dirt/debris into a bucket and threw that away.

All good...!

Now to dissolve another Kg or so of CYA.


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Glad you got your cyclone sorted. Hopefully you got the rest of your cya in.

Not sure if I’m reading the right manual online but what do you make of Astral’s opinion of not using any cya at all and a maximum level of 20 if any with their swg? Obviously I’m going to ignore it but can’t understand all their jargon.
 
If you're using the ORP sensor to control the chlorinator, then you need to keep CYA low or it will foul the sensor very quickly. The sensor will eventually get fouled even at 20 ppm CYA. The trouble with 20 CYA is that you'll lose FC too fast to sunshine, and also it's not measurable below 30 with the available tests.

The option of zero CYA is not recommended because of the harshness of the FC without CYA to buffer it. For example, 3 ppm chlorine with no CYA is around 40 times stronger than 3 ppm chlorine and 30 ppm CYA.

Better to abandon FC automation and test FC with the test kit, then adjust the % and run time accordingly. If you don't have the ORP sensor option, then you don't need to worry about all the gobbledegook about CYA and the EQ chlorinator.

There's a section in that manual that says "why use CYA at all" and then makes a point that CYA is used to reduce chlorine loss, but that doesn't matter because you have this great automated chlorinator making it really cheap. Trouble is that you'll consume the electrolytic cell that much faster, taking money from your bank account and putting it in Astral's. I can see why they'd take that tack! And of course it does work. No CYA, keep FC around 1-2 ppm, like many commercial indoor pools. But it's unnecessarily harsh and less pleasant for swimming, and you'll also find that cossie elastic wears out much quicker.
 
riley00dog said:
I’m not sure if I have an orp or not. Another thing to look into but I really hope I don’t have one. Hoping it can be disabled/removed if I do.
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I asked this very same question a while ago before selecting my chlorinator. CYA level when running SWG and ORP probe

Basically the higher levels of CYA prevent the ORP probe from measuring the chlorine levels correctly which defeats the purpose of the probe.

I ended up just purchasing the PH probe and so far it has been a handy addition in that I can quickly glance at the chlorinator and get an idea of PH level.

Also the auto dosing system should work well once its dialled in - saves on uneccessary manual handling of hydrochloric acid which is a bonus.

To disable the ORP probe (if you have it fitted), simply switch the chlorinator OFF then unplug the cable that connects the ORP probe to the chlorinator and then switch the chlorinator back ON.

It automatically detects the presence of the probe. If it is disconnected it will automatically switch to running without the probe and some of the menus will change to reflect this (ie menu options related to ORP operation will disappear).



PS: My solar is being installed as I type - Took the day off from work to keep an eye on things....!


BTW - Here is what the PH Probe looks like - ORP probe would normally screw into one of the other spare ports adjacent the PH probe - Should be fairly obvious if it is present, I think it has a yellow label indicating ORP probe from memory.


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