New F/Glass build DownUnder - Adelaide - What have I let myself in for?... :)

TDid they do anything to test that concrete, or what might be under it (like a sink hole)?!

Nah no testing. The road is bitumen based and generally they don't have issues with these. Footpath is simply paved and is on fairly solid land/base.

I reside in a reasonably old neighbourhood - most houses are circa 1900's vintage (mine is 1926 - Sandstone bungalow) so the land has been stable for some time. No rivers or wetlands nearby so low risk of soft soil underneath.

They did place some wooden sleepers underneath the outriggers to spread the load.

There have been accidents in the past though.... Here is one from a few years back in another state of ours - One wrong assumption and oops...: Swimming pool takes a plunge as crane topples - ABC News (Australian Broadcasting Corporation)



Glad it all went well. Thanks for the pics.

No problem... Thanks :goodjob:
 
Ok so I’m not all the switched on with this but I take that to mean running it for 3 and a bit hours will cost me around $.27 given my electricity price? So depending on how many hours I run it I would roughly be looking at $1 or so a day.

A fair bit less. With a 35 g/hr (1.9 lb/day) SWC in a 27,000 litre (7150 gal) pool, you'll be able to produce 3 ppm FC per day in around 2.5 hours of SWC run time. So I'd say around $0.20 or $0.25 per day. That would typically be done in 8 hours of pump run time and the SWC set at 30%

It will be a bit higher on sunny summer days when you have a lot of swimming and lower on cloudy days or days with no swimming.
 
A fair bit less. With a 35 g/hr (1.9 lb/day) SWC in a 27,000 litre (7150 gal) pool, you'll be able to produce 3 ppm FC per day in around 2.5 hours of SWC run time. So I'd say around $0.20 or $0.25 per day. That would typically be done in 8 hours of pump run time and the SWC set at 30%

It will be a bit higher on sunny summer days when you have a lot of swimming and lower on cloudy days or days with no swimming.

Ok thanks [emoji4]
 
Just a water test update:

FC 6.5
CC 0
PH 7.3
TA 80
CH 150 (planning to bump this up to recommended range)
CYA approx 50* (calculated value - Waiting an extra day or two before measuring with test kit as only added extra CYA on the weekend)
 
Those are excellent numbers! No wonder your water looks so good. Great job!

Still have the SWCG switched off...!

I measured the FC last night at 6.5 and this evening at pretty much the same level.

It has been cool all day and heavily overcast, I guess not much UV hit the pool surface today....:)
 
Still have the SWCG switched off...!

I measured the FC last night at 6.5 and this evening at pretty much the same level.

It has been cool all day and heavily overcast, I guess not much UV hit the pool surface today....:)

Wow! They’re very effective at generating chlorine. Rushed to Bunnings to buy chlorine after testing 0 this morning. After the dramas of the day by the time I finally managed to buy some it was up to 4ppm. Crazy! We both have some fine tuning to do I guess.
 
After the dramas of the day by the time I finally managed to buy some it was up to 4ppm. Crazy!

Yep - Running at full output they do produce a fair amount of chlorine gas for our pool sizes.

We may find that we need to switch off the SWCG on certain days during the winter months due to low/no bather load and low UV levels hitting the pool.

Also keep in mind if going to run a cover such as I will be. In that case I guess the FC chlorine level wont drop all that much for days on end....!
 
No building activity this week, so it has been quiet.

Tested my water this evening and so far it looks like it is settling in:

Note: my SWCG has been switch off all week as my FC was up around 10 and it has taken this long to bring it down due to not many sunny days last week.

Typically losing almost no FC during overcast days and the odd day when the sun broke through for a few hours the FC level only dropped between 0.5 and 1ppm...!

FC = 5
CC = 0
PH 7.5
TA = 60
CH 200
CYA approx 50....:confused:


What does everyone do when there is no sun around but you want to measure CYA levels?

I grabbed a bright LED torch and used a piece of glossy paper as a reflector - This became my diffused light source 'standard'.

I experimented a little using a CYA standard of 50 and compared it to mine and it measured fairly similar, so I was on the right track. Using the calc I should be around the low 50's (added 2Kg of CYA a while back with no pre existing CYA present).

Curious to what others do if wanting to measure in the evening or if you are faced with overcast conditions?

My test kit actually recommends performing the test indoors under 'good' light rather than using the sun.
 

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Your numbers look really great! I’m in love with the ccl test kit now. Has a very distinct smell about it which I don’t mind. Yes, I’m a bit strange!

As for testing cya. I’ve done mine under our new supersonic led kitchen lights. I knew we got them installed at the same time as the pool electrics for a reason [emoji23] I have also done it outside at waste height and got the same disgustingly high number [emoji36] Maybe pick a well light indoor location and test at night then try outside in the daylight and see if you get the same reading. If you do then you can trust your indoor spot so you can test at night or bad weather reliability. Mind you once you have it where you want it you won’t need to check it too often.
 
I, too, do my CYA testing indoors. In fact, I don't use much of the standard TFP CYA testing method, though I won't offer my exact method because I don't want to contradict TFP more than I just did. I believe you should develop testing methods that can be recreated exactly, as much as possible, from test to test (how and from where you sample, the equipment, the location, the lighting, etc). And that wouldn't include testing outside, the conditions of which, you've discovered for yourself, can vary widely. Technically, the lighting conditions outside are different 365 days a year! (Not even factoring in the time of day, let alone weather!!)

So it's indoors for me, under a very bright under-counter LED light. I use Taylor's test, so I use their pictures as my testing standards. Bottom of the page, here.
 
suffering from shed envy

I was in the same boat - My shed was just an old shed, deciding to house the the pool equipment in one corner of the shed was an excuse to do it up a tad.

Interior is almost done, floor has now been laid, skirting is the only thing left.

Once that is complete, the outside is getting a bit of a makeover as well (painting it a different colour).


gE2mxe.jpg
 
Ok - So today I played around with connecting a data cable from my Viron XT320 pump to my eQuilibrium chlorinator both Astralpool products. Info below might be handy for others with the same equipment who do not have a data connection between their Astralpool pump and chlorinator but would like to select their pump speeds directly from the chlorinator's programming.

From what I could deduce off the net, the data cable is a simple RJ12 (6-wire). This is available from Astralpool but seems expensive for what it is (10m cable is around $30).

I had a couple of RJ12 cables lying around so I managed to find one that was about 2m long - perfect to try it out and see if it works.

From what I could tell, the RJ12 cable is a straight through pin 1 to pin 1, pin 2 to pin 2 etc and not a crossover type, so if you end up purchasing an aftermarket cable or making one yourself you need to ensure that the cable is terminated as shown in the pic below.


NtoO43.jpg




The cable plugs into the rear of the Viron pump after you unscrew two screws to remove the rear black plastic cover assembly which provides for a weatherproof seal. Plug the cable in and then route it through the cable channel provided and out to the rear of the pump - refer to pic. Replace the cover carefully ensuring that the seal on the cover plate is seated correctly which provides weatherproof protection.


Promfs.jpg




The other end of the cable simply plugs into the bottom of the chlorinator. Here you will find two RJ12 sockets, any one of the two can be used.


op7eF6.jpg




Before you can select the pump speeds from your chlorinator, you need to setup the pump as follows. Note pump must be powered up for the following steps:

First you need to disable any timers that you may have set in the pump:
  • Select 'CONF' (Configure) option by stepping through the menu with the menu button
  • Hold the 'ENTER' key for 3 secs (menu will change)
  • Step through menu with menu button until you reach 'TMR' (Timers)
  • Press Up/Down arrow keys to switch timer OFF - you will see 'TMR OFF' on the display
  • Press 'ENTER' to save the setting
  • Ensure all 4 timers are disabled just in case you had more than one enabled

We also need to enable a menu option in the pump which enables comms from the pump via the RJ12 data cable:
  • Press menu button to select the 'SYS' (System) option
  • Press Up/Down arrow keys and select 'ON' to enable comms
  • Press 'Enter' to save or press the On/Off button to exit and save.


Now you should be able to select any one of the three speeds within the chlorinator's timer programs. Step through the timers in the chlorinator and you will see where you can select from Low/Med or High which now will correspond to the RPM settings already programmed/saved in your Viron pump.

Note that the pump will always switch on to Prime speed for the first five minutes before the chlorinator will select what speed to run the pump at.

The pump's speed can always be manually temporarily overridden by simply selecting any one of the three speeds on the pump's control panel. It will run at the manually overidden setting until the chlorinator turns the pump off and switches in the timer again or when the next timer starts.


The above configuration is handy if you want to say run at low speeds for the majority of time but you also want to run a session at a higher speed to say better stir the water up a tad etc.

You can use up to 4 timers in the chlorinator and these can be sequential - which gives some flexibility if you want to run say the first hour at med or fast speed but then drop back to low for the remaining hours etc.
 
That is a very informative and thorough explanation. Interesting to know the Astral cable isn’t a necessity. Who needs 10m of cable anyway?! I might give this a go down the track when I feeling more comfortable with everything. Will definitely be coming back to your thread for reference.
 

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