New Construction: Cathedral City CA

Okay with you being at the rebar part you have a "job". Take your plans outside with you and measure everything. Add about 6" or so for the gunite and plaster. It is long, wide, deep, etc enough? NOW is the time to tweak or change as needed.
Kim

Mornin' Kim! I sucked it up and went out and measured (I did not even fall in ... imagine!:)

The finished spa is 7x7, with a 15" high sit and spin ledge. I was told the water line would be 42". I've attached a photo with measurements. Thoughts?

Rebar measurment.jpg
 
You know what what sticks out to me...................You want to have a water height of 42" BUT right now it is already 44". That does not leave but 2" for the gunite and plaster. We say the gunite and paster=about 6" so................might want to ask your PB what his thoughts are. NOW is the time to fix anything that needs to be fixed. Once the gunite is in things get MUCH harder!

Now of course there will be gunite and plaster on top of the rebar that makes the lip of the spa so that could make up some of the difference. The water should come to the middle of the water line tile and the middle of the skimmer face. I hope this helps you when you talk to the PB to make sure you are on the same page.

Kim:kim:
 
... Now of course there will be gunite and plaster on top of the rebar that makes the lip of the spa so that could make up some of the difference. The water should come to the middle of the water line tile and the middle of the skimmer face. I hope this helps you when you talk to the PB to make sure you are on the same page.
Kim

Thanks Kim, that's what I was thinking - but I will bring it up tomorrow morning.
 
TIME SENSITIVE - Here’s this mornings questions for anyone who is available.

They are plumbing the jets today and the Owner of the Pool Company (OPC) showed up because I reminded our sales rep a couple days ago that we originally wanted to consider having massaging jets in addition to the Waterways Venturi jets.


The OPC first says the massage jets need much more pressure and that we would need another pump or loose some of our Venturi jets. The most that he suggests to install is 2 massaging and 10 Venturi jets



(A reminder, we are spec’d for 12 jets running off one 3hp and one 1.5ph pumps.)


I asked when he refers to “pressure” was he referring to GPM and he said yes. I told him that the massage jets were rated at 10gpm which was what I though was standard for spa jets. When I asked what was the GPM of the Venturi jets they use were rated for he did not know (he made a call and was told 7gpm).



Next, I asked about swapping any of the jets in the future. Say I want to change the massaging jets to the Venturi jets and he said no would not be possible.


He also said that the pressure coming out of the Venturi jets would be much more powerful than the massaging jets … though I’m not sure I believe him.


Where I’m at now is I think I should just stick with the Venturi jets and call it a day, especially since I have no first hand experience with the massage jets, and if they truly don’t have much kick to them, I cannot switch them out.

Thoughts?



Thanks in advance. York
 
Kim, I thought I'd fill you in as well regarding the rebar depth in the spa. As soon as our rep arrived this morning he assured me that it was correct. I said, ok I did all our jet placements as you requested based on the 42" from bottom of the spa to the waterline. And hour later his plumbing person advises us that the shoulder jets need to be lowered 7". Many words we exchanged, it turns out he wants measurements as negative numbers below waterline, so I redo everything, then give it back and then he says the bench would be too high (or maybe it was low). And my rep and the plumber are wanting me to give ok's on the numbers they are recommending. Geeze!

Next I hear that the plumber is working his measurements from the top of the tile, not the waterline ... double geeze!! I finally walked away and asked the rep to speak to be after they were on the same page. NEXT the owner of the company arrives and starts, "why would you want a 22" bench on one side, people will be sticking out of the water!!! And starts quoting other measurements - bang, bang bang...

I walked away again and let our rep discuss our logic between the various heights with him and where we intended the jets to go. Too many cooks in that kitchen and all speaking different languages ... oy vey! Our rep came back and said all is fine, there was no problems with my measurements. A few hours later .. my headache is going away :).
 
Okay, I'm sure my year of prep for this project has helped immensely AND I recall reading on someone post that once it starts it's like a fast moving train :)

Today is a plumbing inspection. My question this morning is on where they placed the pipes that come up - it is behind where the equipment pad will be poured, though not coming through the pad - behind it and the wall of the house. They re about 8" in front of the wall of the house. Is this normal .. good, bad ... horrible?

On another note, I've asked for production meetings before each important to discuss what they intend to do next so I can give my input, instead of feeling blindsided 20 minutes before something needs to get done. We'll see how that goes.

Also, I've tried searching the forum for examples of the different types of wall mounted units that need to accompany the equipment. I've seen pools where it looks like the installer put the wall units just anywhere, with little consideration to accessibility or visual "neatness" (meaning some mounted in a row - but at different heights, instead of neatly aligned where the top edge of each unit aligns with each other.) Are there samples on this forum of good and bad installations?

IMG_3423 - Day 5.jpg
 

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The plus to having them the way the pic shows is it will look neater.

The minus is if you ever need to cut, fix, repair, etc them or any parts glued to them. It will restrict access. Also, if they plan to pour a concrete pad, that pad will be directly over the pipes buried in the ground.

So it is really a choice. Mine is not that way, but my equipment pad is tucked away and you do not see it from the patio / pool area.
 
Ah, Marty beat me to it!

I've never seen them come up behind a pad like that, but that doesn't mean it's wrong. Others will weigh in. I can tell you that based on how I've modified my system, and how others here have, you definitely would not want them to come up through the pad. I know that modifications, additions, repairs can sometimes mean digging up pipe below the surface. Which might also be the reason you want them in front?

I can also tell you, from my own experience, that if you want your wall to look neat and tidy, you're going to have to stand there while it's done and direct the installer. (Which will make him insane, but too bad.) You might luck out and get one with the level of OCD you and I would want, but we are exceptions, and they'll as often as not put stuff where it's easiest for them. Or get them close to neat, but not neat enough for people like us. No pictures of mine for you, I didn't watch him the whole time, so mine looks like crud.

The reality is, no setup will ultimately look "neat and tidy." It's a collection of ugly machines and ugly pipes and ugly wires. No positioning is going to change that fact. The only way to appease your aesthetics about neat? Put it together with servicing in mind, then hide the whole mess somehow.

Oh, one other thing... I have an EasyTouch, an SWG transformer and a breaker box strapped to my wall, with flex conduit running between all. If you're planning on having any or all of those, Pentair (if you're sticking with that brand) sells a controller that has all three of those things in one box. That's what I'd do differently next time...
 
yeah hide it will a mural wall!!!! I will help you design it!!!

Kim:kim: (One day I will be able to talk someone into doing a mural wall!)

I thought about hiding mine in some kind of shed thing. Which would keep the sun off everything, too. But now that I'm running it, I'm doing something at the pad almost every day, so having to deal with a shed seems less of a good idea. Mine is mostly out of sight of the pool, so I just live with it as is.
 
Thanks all for your input. all this is in the side yard and not really much of a public area, this is where Bosco the dog was trained to "do his business" well see if he remembers when he's allowed to go back in the yard. We do intend to enclosure around it that opens from the front - something like this (just not so "smancey")

bdfac9beb6d41b945821154bcc1c5c19--pool-equipment-cover-fence-panel.jpg
 
Something removable in some way would be prudent. I've had to unearth my pipe trench twice now (for mod's) and I wouldn't have wanted to have to work around a structure to do that...
 
Good point Dirk and reminds me that my intention was for the posts to be in PVC post sleeves, though I was thinking about the sleeves being set in some concrete. I imagine if (when :-( ...) there is a problem under there it will be a huge mess.
\
 
The sleeves could be a problem. They'll fill up with water and dirt and compromise the wood, and the removability. And they won't hold the post tightly. I'd use something like this, and bolt through them and the wood. It'll be way sturdier, and more easily removable and won't compromise the wood as much (if at all). The posts won't even be sitting on the slab.

post base 2.jpg

They will be more obnoxious to work around than sleeves would be, however, when you have the posts off 'em. You put a bucket or something over them to keep from impaling yourself.

You can see a lighter-weight version of these in the picture you posted. Just depends on how tall your posts are going to be.
 
Marty, many, many months ago, that was all I thought about was access for repairs. When this locomotive started everything started to get blurred. Right now it is a straight shot to the spa, so I assume that is what they thought was "best" I'm sure it would be a very costly job order change to move all those pipes 4 feet to the left.

Regarding bonding - I see three areas on the rebar where the bonding wire is attached and another on the spa. Is that common?

IMG_4205.jpg
 
And I don't have any science for the following, just gut. I wouldn't pour the slab right up to the house, nor attach the fence to the wall. I can hear my VS in my master when it's cranking. I would think the less paths you make between your pad and your house the better. I was going to look into some sort of sound pad for my pump, like they use under air conditioners, but I don't know if such a thing is done, or available, for a pool pump... I imagine a pool pump has to be firmly attached to the slab...
 

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