Greetings...newbie checking in....

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It would be worth a chat with him. He might just say "it's rated for that pool size, what's the issue." SWCs really do need to be over-sized to get reasonable run time. The other option is to do what pooldv does - run a variable speed pump on low 24/7. They are very quiet and pumping electricity cost is low. Is your pump a 2-speed or variable speed?

I like Casey's idea of the big Circupool for your pool for sure. I don't know squat about controllers, but experts here say you want all one brand for the automation controller so they talk politely to each other. A few people say they're geared to handle different brands with a bit of effort, so I'm lost on that aspect. The upside is that the big Circupool can deliver 3 PPM FC in 8 hours for your pool. As Casey mentioned, 2 T-15s in series would do the same thing.

My PB had no problem changing equipment. He just laughed and said "Sure, whatever you want, I'll just use this on another pool." If he's that kind of guy, you could swap for a Hayward pump, then everything would be Hayward. I don't know pumps over there and whether that's a good swap for sure, but I think it is. You could pay a bit extra for a 2-speed or variable speed, so you would still have long pump run time, but low cost for electricity, and they're pretty quiet.

If it was me, I'm not sure what I'd do. Maybe read the controller manual, ask around here, and if OK, I'd get a bigger chlorinator because it gives more options for run-time plans. Then fumble through the manuals and make it work. I think there will be others watching the thread with way more experience than me, and they'll give you some better information than I can.
 
I will definitely check with him and see what he is willing to do. I can't wait to see the power bill with 20 hr run time. Maybe the 2 t-15s in series will do the trick.

I am now realizing I made a mistake letting my pool builder choose the equipment. I should have done my homework sooner and demanded exactly what I wanted.

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You really need to get FC up or you are going to have a green pool. Chlorine level is set based on CYA level and the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. FC must always be above minimum to keep the pool sanitized and algae free. When FC drops below minimum the pool becomes unsanitary and bacteria, viruses, pathogens and algae are not effectively killed. Use the non-swg chart for now until you can you can test CYA.

You have few options on pump/swg
-Run the existing set up as long as needed to maintain FC, that single speed, 2hp pump will use over 2000 watts of electricity.
-Run the existing pump 8 hours a day and add bleach as needed to maintain FC.
-Swap in a 2 speed or VS pump and run long enough to maintain FC? I run my VS pump at 1100 rpm to skim and make chlorine with the SWG and it uses 150 watts. A 2 speed pump will move 1/2 the water and use 1/4 the electricity on low as it does on high.
-Swap in a bigger SWG.
 
I have a T-15 on a 20k pool and currently, I am running at 25% for 4 hours so theoretically, you should be able to run at 50% for 4 hours or even 100% for two hours. But I see two problems.

1) You may not have enough CYA to help protect the chlorine from FC extinction.

2) It sounds like you may have an algae bloom starting. If that is the case, your SWG will probably never be able to keep up.

Suggestion: Bring up the FC level to at least 5 ppm tonight and run an OCLT to see if you are getting a large drop overnight (>0.5 ppm). If so, then I would SLAM the pool to get rid of any algae.
 
molardog said:
I will definitely check with him and see what he is willing to do. I can't wait to see the power bill with 20 hr run time. Maybe the 2 t-15s in series will do the trick.

I am now realizing I made a mistake letting my pool builder choose the equipment. I should have done my homework sooner and demanded exactly what I wanted.
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Don't be hard on yourself. It's entirely reasonable to expect pool builders and pool stores to know this stuff, but time and time again, it just doesn't seem that way. I went through similar experiences. You're at a good stage to get things right and definitely asking the right questions. Loved that line in Best Exotic Marigold Hotel - "It will all be alright in the end. If it's not alright, then it is not the end."
 
Wow, that's an interesting approach that Mas985 describes. He's only adding 0.35 PPM per day vs. most people's 2-3 PPM per day. I'm guessing that must be with the cover, so a cover for your pool might be a great option, plus of course Mas's pool is super clean. Wow, that is incredibly efficient!! Did you turbo-charge that T-15, Mas?!?
 
needsajet said:
Don't be hard on yourself. It's entirely reasonable to expect pool builders and pool stores to know this stuff, but time and time again, it just doesn't seem that way. I went through similar experiences. You're at a good stage to get things right and definitely asking the right questions. Loved that line in Best Exotic Marigold Hotel - "It will all be alright in the end. If it's not alright, then it is not the end."
Click to expand...

No doubt. It just irritates me to no end to pay TOP dollar for a service and not have completely knowledgeable folks on board.
 
That's great. Very glad to hear you're going to add some chlorinating liquid. (and keep the SWC running). Everything will get easier once your test kit arrives. I need to go to bed (near 2:00 am here), but there's lots of expert help here.

I have some research to do to develop a new target for efficient use of my SWC, that's for sure!! All I can say is that for us average folks with an open pool and bather load during summer, you can expect somewhere around 2-3 PPM FC consumed per day when the pool is clean. Your T-15 is rated at 1.4 lbs per 24 hours and your pool has about 340,000 lbs of water. Based on those numbers, the SWC can do around 4 PPM FC per day in your 41,000 gal pool running steady. If my numbers are wrong, then everything I've mentioned about equipment is wrong, and maybe there's no need to talk to the PB or be concerned about the size of the SWC. Sounds like we have some more investigating to do!
 
I agree with Mark that doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test as soon as you get your test kit is the best approach to determine if there is algae in the pool.

It is painful to spend a lot of money building a pool and not get much help, if any, on maintaining the pool. But, pool builders are builders and many of them can build a great pool but don't know a thing about maintaining the water in a pool. And there is so much misinformation coming from pool stores and other members in the industry it makes it even more difficult. So, let's be happy that he built you a great pool and TFP can help you have great water too.
 

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needsajet said:
Wow, that's an interesting approach that Mas985 describes. He's only adding 0.35 PPM per day vs. most people's 2-3 PPM per day. I'm guessing that must be with the cover, so a cover for your pool might be a great option, plus of course Mas's pool is super clean. Wow, that is incredibly efficient!! Did you turbo-charge that T-15, Mas?!?
Click to expand...
I should have put in some caveats. That is with a cover and no swimming. But there is still quite a bit of debris that gets into the pool because it is only 75% covered. But even uncovered, it isn't much more because my CYA is over 75 ppm. I have found that for a SWG pool ocer 75 ppm CYA, if extinction is over 25% (~1 ppm), there is usually an external load to the FC extinction (e.g. lots of pollen or a start of an algae bloom).
 
Agreed 100% on CYA over 70. I ran mine at 70 last year and I am running my CYA between 90 and 100 so far this spring, not exactly on purpose but I went with it, and I haven't been able to get my FC under 10 in a couple of weeks of turning down the SWG every couple of days.

Sun is the largest consumer of FC from a pool and there appears to a substantial reduction in FC loss with CYA above 70.

OP,
Once you have a test kit and rule out algae raising your CYA to 80 is going to be a good place to start.
 
Thanks mas and pooldv, that's great to learn. Sounds like there's a Pool Water Chem 301 lurking in my future, if I ever stop taking 201 over and over!

Molar, looking forward to hearing your numbers when you get your test kit. Until then, in addition to what you add to start out, a gallon of 8-10% bleach each morning and evening should be close to the right number to hold the pool at a good level. Pool Math says 2 gallons of 10% for 5 PPM FC.
 
Well since I am still waiting on delivery of my tf100 kit I picked up a pool master 5 way kit from Amazon and it showed up today...

Two hours ago I put 2 gallons 10% bleach now I am right at the following numbers...

FC...5
CC...1
TA....80-90
pH....8.4
Acid demand test chart shows need for 1.25 GAL muriatic acid...gonna go with the pool calculator number though

I still need to test CYA but I know it is probably around 50 based on the guess strip




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I would actually trust that pH value. I would shoot for 7.8 with MA, just to get closer to "OK". Better to take half steps with pH, CYA and CH.
 
+1 to 1/2 steps

It's also early with respect to being entirely confident in the pool volume. As you observe the effect vs. Pool Math, you can dial in the volume (unless of course you caught it from your water meter). Pool Math is right, so if you're constantly over-shooting or under-shooting after multiple chem additions, it lets you know indirectly if pool volume is correct.

Very glad you picked up that kit, and good move to get the pH in range.
 
needsajet said:
+1 to 1/2 steps

It's also early with respect to being entirely confident in the pool volume. As you observe the effect vs. Pool Math, you can dial in the volume (unless of course you caught it from your water meter). Pool Math is right, so if you're constantly over-shooting or under-shooting after multiple chem additions, it lets you know indirectly if pool volume is correct.

Very glad you picked up that kit, and good move to get the pH in range.
Click to expand...
Yeah...volume is pretty tricky when you start factoring swim outs and stair platforms in the pool.

CC has me concerned but the water is really clear at the moment. But from what I have been reading it looks like a SLAM is in my future.

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A SLAM is a great idea if you have time. Need to get the CYA pinned down to do it. Do you know when the TF100 test kit arrives? Sounds like you can do an OCLT tonight, then we'll know for sure.
 

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