Hi all,

In the middle of a slam, and I’m having color issues testing chlorine levels….
Since the start of the process, I cannot get the pink sample to go clear when adding r0871…

I fill up to 25 mark, add 2 scoops of r0870, and sample turns pink/red.

I start to drop in the r0871 and about 150-160 drops later the sample will start to lighten up, but never gets to clear, like before adding the powder. It will stay shaded in pinkish red. There is about a 2-4 drop point where it is a noticeable change, but again it never clears. Wondering if this is normal, or does it need to be clear as from the start?

I have added extra drops up to 15 or so, but stays the same.

Start of slam was-
Cya-90
pH-7.2
Ta-90
Free chlorine-5.4
Cc-.2

Maintaining around 32-35 chlorine during process..

Thanks!
Lg

I see Marina recommended on the forum - does anyone have any feedback on Doheny?

I’m looking at their private label robotic pool cleaner Mercury which i believe is the same as the Dolphin Quantum but it is on sale for $899

Any help would be appreciated

Good Afternoon

My bulbs went out after 2 years. This is the first time purchasing new ones. Can some recommend after market ones that they’ve have good success with?

I came home to the salt cell showing low salt warning and the system light on. The pump would not turn on so I shut off the power completely and turned power back on. Now when turning on the pump/filter i hear a loud humming sound. Last year I replaced the capacitor and it was working fine. Would the capacitor give out in a year? Should I look to replace the motor on the pump? Another thing to note was that the water temp was recording at 113 degrees (it was hot in Austin) but no way that the water was that high of a temp. At most it would have been 87 degrees.

I have an SF81010-2 pump and the display seems to be stuck on U1 or I believe it is 01 and the top line is out. I can not push the timer button and get the pump to cycle to more time or FP. It froze up

Last summer was the first one for our pool. When the pool company closed the pool for the winter, they cut the flex hose supplying the water to the slide (standard practice per the company). I opened the pool myself this summer and I am trying to figure out what the best union is to reconnect the hoses and be able to easily disconnect for future closings. What is the best practice in this case? Is schedule 40 standard for this application/pressure?

Pics attached for reference. Although the tape is not lined up perfectly, it is 1" ID flex hose.

Hi, I tried searching around but couldn't find any information about this, but I have a hard time believing I'm the first one with this problem so I probably missed something.

I have a feature pump that runs a slide and a 10' wide sheer decent. I just put an actuator on the valve that controls the output to the slide and the waterfall in hopes that I could run the slide on its own without all the noise associated with the waterfall. It works great! Only issue is... The slide's pump speed is set to 1100 RPM and the sheer decent is set to 3200 RPM, so when switching from one to the other the pump ramps up much faster than the valve moves and for a brief moment the slide sprays water across the yard like a fire hose. What I'd like is to have a delay or a slower ramp time on the pump so that the slide doesn't shoot water across the yard every time we turn on the waterfall. I tried the 'Valve Delay' setting in the intellicenter, but it seems that's only related to Pool/Spa circuits and doesn't affect the valves A & B.

Hopefully this makes sense, but let me know if I can clarify at all.

Hi TFP'ers - We have a 20*40 vinyl in ground pool, replaced the pump 2 seasons ago. Winterized ourselves and opened the pool up Easter weekend this year. Water was high but plugs were in place. Got the system up and running and noticed we were losing about an inch of water a day. Plugged the skimmer line and water held, so we started circulating from the diving well line alone, feeling pretty confident the leak was in the skimmer line vs the box or the liner since the plugged line stopped the water loss. Called a few pool contractors and couldn't get anyone to come.out and pressurize the line/listen for leaks until Tues 6/13. Crazy. Team came.out and found the leak by pressurizing and listening for bubbles. I unfortunately did not watch everything they did. Since they left we cannot get the pump to prime...now more than a week later. We've tried to prime manually, we've tried with both the skimmer and diving well lines open, with the skimmer line closed....nothing has worked. We've tried to communicate with the leak detection contractor to understand what they did but he hasn't returned calls. We've checked the o-rings....everything seems fine. Just cannot figure out how air is getting in the system. Is it possible putting the skimmer line under pressure made the leak a lot worse?

Related - the leak company doesn't want to bust into our deck to do the fix because of the pebble finish....they recommended Leaktronics PipeFuze...any homeowner experiences with that system?

Thanks in advance!

Pictures added. In the pic that shows the spa.....the leak was detected under the stepping stone which is why it's there.

I have a leaking check valve that leaks back into my pool when i run the spa. I am new to the plumbing side but think I have the right areas to make the cuts and what i need to replace.
Can someone take a look and see if this looks right. The pool return is on the left side and the spa return is on the right. In the middle are the check valve and ball valve i need to replace. Those are both currently 11/2 " while the rest is 2 inch. I am planning to replace them all identical size. Attached is a photo and i highlighted in yellow where i think i should make my cuts and take out that plumbing and replace with new.
Hope this is correct but if anyone has any suggestions on if a better way and maybe what order I might install the new plumbing. Thank you

Ignore my signature if it’s still here because I’m asking for my sister. She wants to switch from cartridge to sand filter for her 24’ round AG. Someone has offered one for free, but it needs to be big enough. Im also concerned she has too much pump, but I don’t have those stats. All I know is that it is dual speed. Can you see the pic of the free sand filter? Feedback? Thanks!

So I stopped using my Apera PH60 tester for pH readings because the readings were crappy compared to my Taylor kit reading. I realized today, it's user error. I had been following the Quick Start/Use laminated card that comes with the unit, but I also noticed that that laminated quick guide doesn't say ANYTHING about proper storage and well, I was not properly storing it . I found out that the probe should be stored damp/wet with the cover/cap fully closed to keep the tip from drying out. I was not doing that and my unit seemed to get less responsive over time, even calibrating it didn't help.

The good news was, I foiund that cleaning the probe in the 3M KCL Storage Solution for a couple of hours, and then recalibrating the probe (7.0, 4.0 and then 10.0) totally fixed all my issues. Not only does it read correctly now with both the Taylor and TF-PRO pH blocks (yes, I have to use both, cause I need to double-check things being color blind) but the PH60 also reads SUPER fast now.

I bought this on Amazon to get me a proper cleaning and calibration and couldn't be happier: Amazon.com

Now I know to store the probe tip with some moisture on it and in its protective cap/cover to keep the tip from drying out. Passing this along for others who might struggle with their Apera PH60 meter.

(I use mine because I'm color blind and color based pH reading tests have been a real struggle for me in the past, though I think I've managed to train my eye properly and have gotten way better).

HTH someone else.

Using a vsp so swg is inverted per instructions

Added two slip joints to remove the swg for winter

Have not glued all of it yet.

1. Does it matter where you put the Jandy valve? I assume the Jandy valves tolerate freezing temps so don’t need to remove for winter. Or I’ll put the union on the right side of the valve.
2. Pump is about 5 ft from the pool. Is that too much strain on the pvc?

On the pump side does it make a difference where to add the valve?
Shall I add it to the vertical pvc or the horizontal?

Hey guys! So I took my old light out because it has water in it and now I have the photos attached. I know this one is bad, but I don't know what to buy because I don't see a model number on the sticker. I went ahead and bought a new light that was crazy expensive to change colors and wanted to make sure it worked.

My FC, pH and CYA change over time. FC goes down over time, pH goes up over time, and CYA goes down over time. I had some leaks that were fixed and I am wondering if I still have a leak and/or if I am not maintaining proper levels.

What should I expect during an Arizona summer (100 degrees F or a lot more, lol) as far as: 1) how much should FC fall per day, 2) how fast should pH rise over time, and 3) how fast should CYA fall over time.

And a follow-up question.....when you are SLAMming a pool, is it normal for FC to fall faster per day compared to when FC is at normal (non-SLAM) levels?

Thank you.

Hello, I have been SLAMming my pool for at least a week now. The water and walls/bottom have cleared up nicely except for one spot. It is about 1.5 feet below the deep-end return, and it looks yellowish/brownish to me. I've been brushing the pool, including this area, during the SLAM, and I haven't seen any noticeable changes in this particular spot. Photo below.

I don't know if this is algae or maybe a discoloration of the fiberglass coating. The fiberglass is discolored in multiple places. I don't remember all the places it's discolored. I vaguely remember this area was discolored but thought the discoloration was lighter. I may not be remembering correctly, and this is adding to my inability to determine if it's algae or discoloration.

Suggestions on what I should do next? (Note that I have not done an overnight chlorine loss test yet.)

Thank you.

I'm pretty new to pool, been an owner for about 2 years and have used this forum to troubleshoot numerous issues with my pentair intellitouch

Hi,

Today my pool pump would not turn off on the schedule. I tried turning off the pump via app and directly at the control panel and nothing worked. The red light sbove pump filter stays on and it won't turn off when pressing the button. I had to hit the reset button / turn it to service mode to get it to stop. I checked the alerts / delays and nothing there. All the other buttons are working with the exception of being able to turn off the pump. I cycled the power as well and that did not fix it.

Aquarite is reading 4800 salt level. Had water tested pool place says salt is at 3600. I had a bad salt cell, replaced my cell with an over sized Blue Works T-9 version. I had a t3. I have changed the cell type on the board, reset salt level etc... board is still reading high. I am at a loss.

Salt cell guy trying to figure stuff out.

Today, we lost a screw from a pair of sunglasses in the deep end of our vinyl-lined pool. Looked for it but couldn't find it at the bottom (pool was shaded). Will this potentially damage pump / filter / plumbing? Is this a big problem? Little problem? Potential but unlikely problem? How important is it that I find it?

Also, any tips on locating it?

Have a pool with an older Easytouch control the one with 3 resetable mini cb in the top right hand corner. How can I know /find out what it would take to make it app compatible. Pentair control, pump, ic60, polaris 280 and pentair 400k btu heater.There's a very strong wifi signal 30 feet from the pad. The remote that was delivered with the house purchase doesn't work and they want flexibility....thanks in advance, Allan

I'm hoping someone can help me problem solve a bonding issue I have. My water is shocking us as we enter/exit the pool to/from wet concrete or if we touch handrail. I have attached a 8 gauge copper wire to where the bonding metal makes contact with the water and inserted the other end into the pool and the shock goes away on that side of the pool. Still feel shock as I move away from copper wire around the pool. I know others have had this issue, but has anyone solved it?

I have had the power company out and they said there is 5 volts in the ground, but the bonding should make that a non-issue. Any help?

Hi all, I’m new to owning a pool. We put ours up last year right before winter so we basically just winterized it. We opened the pool in may and my impatient fiancé dumped all of the debris into the pool before pumping all of the water off. My pool is currently a teal green and extremely cloudy.

We have been shocking the pool basically every other night. We added 4 bags of shock about 3 nights ago, two bags of shock 2 nights ago and last night we added another 4 bags each 1 lb. This morning the pool looked a lot lighter shade of green and the FC level was about 10. I just checked the levels at about 5:25 pm and the readings were:
Hardness-250
FC-0.5
Total chlorine-0.5
Cyanuric-0
Alkalinity-180
PH-8.4
(After I texted I added about 1lb of PH reducer)

I plan on doing the SLAM method and all advice would be appreciated! Thanks I’m advance! I also attached a picture of the pool from yesterday 06/19.

Hello everyone,

Today I cleaned my Hayward cartridge filters. Mine takes 8 of them. When I was finished, I ran the pump on high, and the pressure gauge still read 30. How often is this a faulty pressure gauge? Or is there another problem I don't know about? This pool is only 4 years old. Thank you!

I have a Zodiac Legacy LRZ LRZ250EN. I tried turning it on and it makes the right clicking noises and smells like gas but isn't igniting. I took the cover off and noticed that the ignitor wasn't glowing. I took out the 3 screws holding in the hot surface ignitor and the ignitor ceramic parts disintegrated.

I bought a brand new ignitor and installed it, and it's basically doing the same thing as before, where the heater is making the right clicking noises, then releases some gas, but the ignitor isn't glowing. There is no error or fault showing on the screen. Anyone know what else I can check to see why the ignitor doesn't light? Could a broken ignitor have blown some fuse somewhere?

Hello! I have a 27ft AGP (in NY) and noticed this today: Login to view embedded media Our pool is not opened yet and the holes are about where the current water level is. From my limited research, my plan would be:
A) lower the water some more (maybe 5-6 inches below the holes)
B) pop 2 or 3 of the top rails
C) peel back the liner so I can sand, sheet metal, pop rivet, and paint and/or tape
D) put the liner back on and refill.
E) also find where the liner is leaking and repair

My concern/question is when I remove the top rails, the pool wouldn't fall apart (b/c there will still be water in the pool)? Yes I would have helpers (probably 2-3).
This pool is about 10-11 years old and if it looks really bad, we might just replace the liner this season.
Thanks for any help and comments!
-Charlie

What is the easiest way to resolve high Alk and low PH. Seems like the most talked about is dropping both with muriatic acid and building the PH back up. If this is the easiest how do I bring up the PH without then affecting the Alk?

Thanks in advance

I am on day 11 if trying to rid a small (12x16 oval) above ground Simple Salt pool of a weird Grey is algae that cannot be scrubbed away or effectively killed( so far) with a myriad number of various chemicals.
The pool place has thrown in the towel on my case and I am left with an algae stained pool bottom. Water is perfectly clear. Any suggestions?

Hi All,



I'm replacing the vinyl liner on my pool for the first time. I purchased a new vinyl liner through a pool company which includes install. They came out, took my winter pool cover off, and measured my pool dimensions with old liner still in. 4 weeks later they're out here doing the install. They cut away my old liner and tell me the pool will be ready 2 days.

Day 2 there's a problem. I have water coming from somewhere. They seem aghast at what it could possibly be and are offering no real solutions beyond this is out of their wheelhouse and I’ll have to pay thousands of dollars for some company to dewater the ground.

I had city operations come out and take a look- they said it's likely ground water from a high water table. In this area about 25% of the houses have inground pools. The guy actually had a friend who lived just down the block and pool builders told owners if liner had to be replaced, ground would have to be dewatered.

[rant coming]
I'm perturbed I wasn't informed of this when I bought the house. How did this house get a permit to build the pool if the liner could never be replaced without a full crew coming out here to dewater the ground? How could the prior home owners, their real estate agent, my real estate agent, my hired inspector not inform me of this issue?

This also seems like something that should be within a pool company’s wheelhouse. Nice of them to cut away my old liner and force me to deal with this situation sans guidance.

[exhale] Now being up a creek without a paddle, I’m taking the reigns back over this project.
Is this… perhaps… the perfect opportunity to shorten the deep end a few feet to above the water line? The pool is ~39k gallon and deep end is money pit to heat (~9ft with diving board).

What other solutions should I consider, and what are the ballpark costs associated with them?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hi all..
I am getting my vinyl line replaced in my 17'x32' in-ground pool due to it just being old and starting to leak. The company that I am working with, is sayingthat the water needs to be clear before they will come out a measure (I believe a laser measuring system). Question is: Since my pool leaks, and the water level is low (below skimmer) is there a way to use an above-ground pool filter for the 3-4 days to get the water clear prior to draining for replacement? I am struggling with filling/filtering/opening just to drain all that water out.
Suggestions??