Does adding 90-degee turns reduce water pressure and flow like adding them to HVAC ducting does to air flow? I have to add some in for a SWG I'm thinking of putting in and was wondering. I know the SWGs have pressure requirements (max usually). I'm thinking of the RJ-60+ by Circupool.
TIA

Hi everyone, I have an older M600, and it looks like the cable has failed — the copper inside the swivel has corroded. I know the part I need is 9995899-DIY, but finding it at a reasonable price (or even finding it at all) has been tough. I’ve already reached out to Maytronics for support. I was wondering if anyone here has experience with these cleaners and, more specifically, if there’s an alternative part that might be compatible. It’s a 3-wire, 60-foot cable — would any other 3-wire cable work as a replacement?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Hi all, had a quick question for the group regarding our current water level. We're located in the KC metro area, and have our fair share of rain this spring season so far. The water level is getting high and the mesh safety cover is sitting in the water. We're scheduled to open our pool on May 19th, but I'm wanting to know if we should be draining off any water prior to this, or if it's a moot point. We have a submersible pump from the winter that we could use. Attached a photo for reference. Thank you for any and all feedback/advice!

I am new to pools, owned one since Feb. Pump pressure was consistently around 40psi. So I decided to clean the filter. Attached is what it looked like when I opened it up.
My pool company claim to have washed the filter in March.
My question: is could it have got that bad in six weeks?
Cheers

We are replacing our vinyl liner and sand filter (c1993). We are strongly considering installing a SWG. Are there problems with salt and a vinyl liner (corrosion, holes, etc). I have no idea how the SWG works, but I understand you initially put in a lot of salt for the start-up. Any recs for type or brands of SWG? We will hire a pool company to do all the installs. Thanks for any advice.

I was brushing the pool and when I was really up close to the edge of the pool, I can see some hairline cracks in the fiberglass (gel coat?)

These are super small, but the pool is only 1 year old.

Manufacture closed this year (owner died), they have been in business for 40 years I trusted them, but now I got no warranty.

Is this something that happens on FG pools regularly (hairline cracks?)

Should I monitor it closely?

At least it is not a crack submerged in water.

thanks again

Our pool leaked for the second winter in a row, we opened and were still losing water, so we had divers come. They found a small leak by the stairs and patched it up. We are still losing water! Last night it was right above the arrow on the skimmers and this morning it is right below them so I’m assuming about an inch overnight.

The divers are going to come back out to check again.

We also have a lot of dirt on the bottom of the pool which they said could be from the rip. After it was patched, dirt kept coming in.

I’ve attached pictures from opening and after the rip was patched for reference.

Any thoughts? Could it be another liner tear or something bigger (i.e. in the pipes)?

Thanks for your help!

My pool is in the floodplain. This past February we got hit with a 100-yr storm event and my pool had 7.5' of water over top of it. We had our safety cover on so we didn't get a lot of flood mud in the pool but there is a fine layer of silt. And a ton of algae and frogs and tadpoles. I've had it uncovered for weeks because the safety cover was ripped.

Now, I'm getting ready to open it up soon as I get my CORE-55 chlorinator to stop leaking at the joints. My first question is do any of you use something other than teflon tape around the threaded joints to prevent leakage? I've replaced the rubber O-rings and it still leaks and I used Magic Lube II on them as well.

My second question is the big one. My plan is to scrub the walls, vacuum the floor to waste while refilling with water to keep it full, then SLAMing it. Do you think this will work with the algae and amphibians or should I bite the bullet and drain it and refill it?

Advice is much appreciated.

I have a good motor from 2018, that has a bad control unit. I have a good control unit from 2023 with a bad motor. They are both superflo pumps that look identical, but the 2023 head unit plug connecter is different then the 2018 motor plug. Does anybody know if the orientation is the same? I can probably change the plug connecter, but I dont want to burn anything out if the orientation is different. Oh and of coarse the wire colors are different.

Hi pool nerds! This chunk (in my hand) came out of my grout, and that made me notice the larger chunk above it that is out. Without redoing our whole pool, what product(s) should I use to patch these spots? This is a fairly isolated issue, so I'm thinking patching would be fine? I am only a second year pool owner and inherited this pool and its issues. This IS the corner with the steps (which are weirdly tiny in an otherwise big, beautiful pool?).

Thanks!

Hello All,
Just coming to get some opinions on my current dilemma. Long story short the partner of my late grandfather whom we've basically been taking care of since he passed the last 10 years or so and was a bit of a hermit was nearing 90 and showing some memory issues and her children finally decided it was time to come pick up mom and move her across country with her. This leaves me to deal with my late grandfathers house that she was living in and has a fairly nice pool that was never used. I have experience properly keeping up a pool with Taylor test kits, cartridge filters, and liquid chlorine and other chems to maintain as perfect levels as possible and as easily as possible ( surprise - all thanks to TFP!). However this setup is a little bit different than I am used to, but no worries there, I will brush up on the TFP guides and surely be ahead of the game.

Since I will only be visiting the house once a week I see no reason to continue paying the pool company to come open the pool and another ~$400 a month to maintain it throughout the spring/summer/fall season. All they were doing is coming by once a week to empty the skimmer, drop in 3-5 tabs (according to old invoices), and brush it - I assume anyways. My plan is to spend around $900 on a skimmer and brush robot like my old pool and call it a day and drop some tabs in once a week when I go get groceries over near that area and other chems as needed. Ultimately pretty simple stuff. Would love to do liquid but I wont be there that often.

Anyways to the meat of the question - as far as I can tell the pump has no timer to run it. That seemed like such a standard piece of equipment to me that I am a bit baffled to be honest. My late grandfathers partner certainly wasn't going out every single day and manually running the pump all these years, did the pool maintenance company just allow the pump to run 24/7 or am I blind and missing a timer right in front of my face? I'll attach pictures but I've traced the electric from the pump to all the electric on the wall and do not see anything resembling a timer - mind you there is a black "TORO" box but I think that runs the lights right above it, I haven't cracked it open to look yet though as its taped shut, very slim chance thats a timer running the pool in there but that would be the only place, I'll investigate further later this week when I have time. Pool is currently closed down still from winter.

With no timer is my only option to just leave the pump running 24/7 for the next 5 months? A bit of a rhetorical question I suppose because if there is truly no timer it would make sense to just pay the money to have one installed(I don't want to spend more than I have to since we have a time limit in which we now have to sell the house, but of course it would be nice for the next owner to have it set up properly - I'd love to redo the whole area if I could its a bit dated), I'm just baffled and wonder if that's how its been running this whole time.

Anyways any input would be appreciated!

My first post here, I'm happy to have found this forum. I'm not exactly sure what is going on here so any help would be appreciated. I have pool lights and spa lights that trip the GFCI when the Jandy aqualink RS is in auto mode and the lights are scheduled to come on each night. The controller panel makes clicking sounds and the pool light and Spa light indicators on the controller panel flashes about 3 to 4 times then it trips the GFCI. When I put controller in Service Mode the lights turn on and off without issue from the controller panel, additionally they stay on without fault. Additionally, the lights when on, do not trip the GFCI in Service mode. The lights are less than 3 years old, they are LED Intellibrite 5G color.

️Any thoughts on trouble shooting?

️Does this have anything to with the relays/contactors?

️Do I possibly need a new Aqualink RS Controller panel?

️If I need a new Controller panel, are all the replacement RS controllers the same?

Comments, questions, appreciated. Thank you!

Hello. I am a second-time poster. There is always a white sediment in the bottom of my pool. It kicks up when the sweeper is running and makes the water more mirky. This is what I have done over the course of 18 months to no avail:

Replaced the original stainless steel DE filter with a used Hayward DE7220 filter and got rid of the backflush valve.
Replaced the grids to my Hayward DE7220 DE filter.
Replaced the grids again with more expensive grids.
Replaced the DE filter with a Hayward W3C5030 cartridge filter. Then, drained the pool, flushed pipes and refilled pool.

Still, there is quite bit of white sediment, very visible at the bottom of the pool in the morning.

I'd be grateful for any help. Thanks.

john

Do I have to empty water from filter before I remove clamps to readjust them? I have 2 clamps where I see drips and would prefer not to waste water but I also don't want to create more damage! Thanks!

[Update: My technique was wrong - tftestkit 50ppm CYA sample was a big help. See my follow-up post below if interested in this subject; otherwise ignore this post.]

I purchased a bottle of CYA 50ppm water sample from tftestkits and did the block dot tests several times as a sanity check. Fail. The dot was clearly visible at 50ppm (at the "half way" mark). My reading came closer to 20-30ppm.

I'm going to reach out to them to be sure I'm doing this right (following all instructions here and on their site) and/or to find out if the sample may have been bad.

I don't want to whine about the CYA test here; I get the variances in eyes, lighting, etc., this is just an FYI in case others have tried this route to check your block dot skills.


My results:
Black dot test with CYA 50ppm sample: I get around 20-30ppm
Black dot test with my pool water: 60ppm (all other tests (FC/CC, pH, CH, TA etc.) within proper ranges)
Leslie's pool store test with my pool water: 78ppm <-- this was just for fun, I was comparing all of my tests to theirs for fun (mostly for salt before my refills arrived) but ignoring theirs.

Our MasterTemp model 460805 is 15 years old. I took the manifold apart to remove a piece of plastic lodged in there and discoverd my heater does not have a thermal regulator.

Was the thermal regulator optional in 2010 or did I just forget to put one in during setup in June 2010?

Is there a way to control the relays on the i/o board when using the external control programs? The only settings i see are speed/flow percentage settings... would be nice if it is possible... right now there is a 4 way air switch that turns the pump pump on and off by cutting the power, because i am using the relays to turn on the heat pump and the 1/2 hp pump where the heat pump is connected to. If i use the digital input than the only option is to cut the power of the heat pump completely, but i am not sure if that is a good thing to do ( i guess not)

Can someone please help me out with the right way to configure the prologic?
My main equipment:
1 Pool Filter/Pump (Inground Cleaning System Caretaker99 that cycles and with one cycle returns to spa for overflow to pool)
1 Spa Filter/Pump - On AUX1 (This is supposed to be just for the spa but because of valve issue sometimes drains SPA to pool, and is what this thread is about)
1 StaRite 400k BTU Heater - This is a shared heater. (Never really use for the pool but is an option the way its plumbed)

My main issue is with this one valve that directs flow either to the Spa or to the Pool. It's a hayward actuator valve that is plugged into Valve4.

I want this valve (valve4) to turn ONLY when the Spa Filter/Pump is on, then when Spa Filter Pump is Off the valve needs to turn back to the original position.

Is this possible? Can someone please walk me through how to properly program it?
If its not possible using this actuator valve, then how?

I also have valve3 used with another actuator Valve. But this valve is set on a timer for changing suction to/from pool skimmer or pool bottom.
This one is set on a timer and has not been an issue at all.

I really wish i could add more actuator valves but this prologic board is VERY LIMITED.
It's a GLX-PCB-PRO (Pro-Logic System Board REV 4.47)
AQL-PS-8 Display (RF base software r3.00)

Just started dabbling in outfitting custom built barns with golf simulators. Pretty fun side job. Lots to learn but coming together nicely! I’ll post more updates of the final results.

Having an entire remodel done and they suggested adding concrete to top of spa wall to bring it up even with the deck elevation. This will be an approximately 4" tall and 7" wide addition. Should they be using some fiberglass rebar at the top or to side of the existing wall to help secure or is that even possible? I'm concerned about just having a floating piece of concrete there without any mechanical adhesion. I believe they plan on building the form and pouring without any rebar.

This is my 3rd summer with the pool (2 winters). Could my filter gasket have already gone bad? It's leaking a lot from behind the band clamp. I took the gasket out, cleaned it, re-lubed it, re-set it. I always give it little whacks as I tighten it. It is my understanding that helps to set it properly. I can't see anything physically wrong with it. It's not dried up, or brittle at all. I have a replacement gasket on the way tomorrow, but since the current one looks fine to me, I'm doubtful that it will solve my problem. What else could it be?

I’ve completed repairing my cracked top pool stair by attaching new treads that I scribed to each existing stair and beveled to fit. Each stair surface was sanded with 60 grit as well as the bottom of each tread to promote better adhesion. I used Pettit marine silicone sealant / adhesive for the mating surfaces and made the bead around each tread with one of their UV resistant silicones. Both are below waterline rated, so hopefully it will hold up well. The tread itself is Timbertech Advanced PVC, which is their full PVC product, so no worries about swelling or rotting. I went with a fascia board dimension so each tread could be a single piece, and at only 1/2” thick, would more easily conform to the step shape and minimize the change in stair rise. I also drilled several holes before starting and filled the void behind the stairs as much as I could, which worked out to 400lbs of sand. Now in the process of refilling the pool and getting everything balanced again.

I'm repairing a polaris booster pump and curious if the o ring for the volute is the same for both new and old models. I believe the volute is part # P5.

Hi,

This past week I’ve been dealing with a couple of issues with my Pentair Easytouch system and the 011018 pump.

The scheduling of the Easytouch seems to be malfunctioning: whenever I change the start or end time of a schedule while it’s running, the schedules randomly turn off afer a few hours. However if I adjust the schedule before it starts, everything works fine. While troubleshooting I found an Easytouch motherboard for $400, which I think is a good price, thinking I might need to replace it. But since adjusting the schedule before it starts works, I’m not planning on replacing it for now.

Also my Pentair 010018 Pump started making a loud squealing noise. Not always, but intermittently. After reading in this forum it seems that pump replacement might be the best option. However, before I replace it I want to use the current pump for as long as possible. I found that the discontinued VS 011028 pump could be a drop-in replacement, but I can’t find it at a reasonable price. The next option I’m considering is the Intelliflo 3 VSF. From my research, it looks like for it to work with all features my Easytouch needs to be on firmware version 2.16. Currently I’m on 2.13, but the motherboard I purchased is at 2.18. I still have time to return it, should I keep it for when I replace the pump, or is there a better plan? I don’t know how difficult it is to update the firmware of the Easytouch. I don’t have screen logic and I’m not planning on putting it in, unless I really need to or makes sense for the price.

I have the pump on 24/7 at 1700 RPMs, with 5 hours at mid day at 2700, I’ll reduce the 5 hours to 2, in hopes to elongate its life.

Any advice or suggestions will be as always appreciated!

Thanks!
Roger

Hello,
I will be redoing my pool plumbing to install a heater.
Does this setup make sense? I'm new to this, so I would need some advice.
I read that the check valve should be at least 12 inches away from the heater's "water out" port.
The blue line is the water into the 3-way and the red line is back to the pool.
Thank you! : )

Interested in this Confer Curve step system, including the add-on. Does anyone know if it will work in the short end of my pool? I'm worried that the curve of the oval will keep it from being flat against the wall. Any experience with this? Thanks!

Hi all - we've got our heat pump being installed shortly and taking the opportunity to upgrade to an IntelliCenter and IC40 replacing our existing non-Pentair chlorinator. The current chlorinator controller powers the pump on a schedule. All is good, albeit dumb. The IntelliCenter will obviously become the brain, including schedules, heat set point, calling for heat from the heater etc.

The new salt generator transformer in the IntelliCenter is wired into the filter pump relay's second load side as per the manual so that the pump and IC40 switch together.

The heat pump is going to have to have a longer daily runtime than the chlorinator to maintain the desired heat. How does the IC40/IntelliCenter/etc prevent over chlorination if the heater needs the filter pump on for hours longer than needed for chlorination?

Does the IC40 have smarts that sets the output to 0% once a desired chlorination level is reached? Or do you need to wire the teh transformer on its own relay and program the schedules together so that the chlorinator is powered during the filtration phase, but off during other pump activities like heat?

Hello, my cartridge filter is leaking at the top where the clamp (locking ring) holds the lid onto the housing. Water is leaking at the hinge points of the clamp. This has been an intermittent problem since I moved into this property and inherited the pool. In the past 2 months it has leaked some days, while other days not at all. Sometimes when have I reattached the lid and locking ring, the leaking stopped. But yesterday and today I cannot get it to stop leaking quite a lot of water. I am having to top up the pool it has leaked so much. Any advice most appreciated. (I have added photos now; thanks for the suggestion @PoolStored . I do not know what the model number is. It looks old and the previous owner was not the person who installed it.)

how should I aim my return jet? The skimmer is directly across from it.

Hi I have a 30000 gallon pool the old liner has been removed and they have a well point going and 4 sump pumps but can’t stop the ground water in 4 holes in the bottom. The pool company says they aren’t coming back until it dries. I don’t see this happening. Is there something I can do to stop the leak through the holes