Hi all,

Finally set up my Coleman 12x26 soft side pool. Once filled, I noticed some droplets at a couple spots around the bottom seam. Is this pretty normal? Suggestions to fix other than taking patches/flex tape to inside/outside of seam and /or siliconing / flex sealing around the outside of seam?

Also, per the pics, the bottom isn’t pulling up too much and stressing the seam, is it? I can’t imagine so and we worked to get pavers level, but I was hoping we didn’t get too high and have too much of the bottom pull up? Thoughts?

Good evening everyone. New member here. I just got a Carvin Downtown 24' pool installed Wednesday. Weather has been crappy here in SW VA and I have not got a chance to swim yet. I plan on putting the steps in tomorrow, but what I am wondering is if I should put the platform of the step system on the top rail. The steps that came with the pool are the Biltmor 5001 with Classic Ladder. I do plan on installing a deck next year. I am just worried that standing on the top rail to get into the pool will do some damage. But, the instructions show the platform resting against the top rail (it actually recommends screwing it to the top rail, but I do not think I want to do that). Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I just do not want to ruin the walls of a brand new pool. Thanks

I have a Intex Sand Filter Pump Combo. Model # eco15110-2. I have had this pump for 1 years. We used it last half of last summer and this summer. We dry stored it over winter. I keep getting code 91, the pump beeps a few mins and then puts itself into sleep mode. It of course doesn't pump or filter when in sleep mode. Code 91 means low salt. I tested salt levels and they are a lil over but definitely not low. I have cleaned the electrode that creates the chlorine in a vinegar solution (it wasn't bad to start with) and still code 91. I have researched that the electrode might need replacing but I have also learned they should last 3-5 years before needing to be replaced. My pool is green, my pump won't pump bc of this code 91 and I don't know what else to do. Any ideas or suggestions?

We were recently gone for a week on vacation and came home to some changes to our pool that we quickly noticed. It’s primarily directly below the spillover for the spa but it seems as though there’s damage in other places as well. It looks as if a layer of the plaster has been removed. What does everyone else think? Pool chemistry before I left was PH 7.4 Alkalinity 100 Ca 260 CYA 40. When we got back the Alkalinity was 70. I used trichlor tabs for chlorine while we were gone. We paid the pool builder to come midweek and check/adjust the water chemistry as needed. I think they added way more acid than they should’ve based on the change in alkalinity. I plan to reach out to the pool builder tomorrow but would be interested to hear some opinions before I contact them.

I have a Cover Pools, surface mounted cover. One of my children sprayed water into a lamp that is connected to the same circuit as the pool cover, which tripped the breaker initially.

I corrected said child, removed lamp to let everything dry out and then reinstalled. Breaker still wouldn't turn back on (I'm getting the "two clicks" and it won't flip.)

I tested the breaker not plugged in (GFI/Trigger style), the breaker still holds firmly without power, no issues there.

Realized that the lamp is actually on it's own switch, and with switch off to that and pool light (on same circuit), I am still getting no power to pool cover, etc because breaker will not stay in "on" position due to some kind of short. I've now narrowed it down that it must be the pool cover.

There are some leaves, some moisture, etc. in the pool cover that could be part of my issue. Once the rain lets up here in Ohio I plan on cleaning it out real well, but I don't know where the short could be in the pool cover.

pic 1: side one with spider resident, ground wires?
pic 2: side with motor, spider residents, ground wires?

My father has this brand of robotic cleaner. Its worked great for a few years. Recently it has powered on(blinking light and started the function tests.) after about ten seconds the motor gear stops turning and it turns off. Any tips?

We like the light water color of our current plaster pool but its time to replanted…

We are confident Aqua Cool is a good color as we don’t want it too dark…but I am concerned about staining on the white plaster.

Does the blue plaster in Aqua Blue ‘hide’ stains better? Like brown metal stains? Or other imperfections?

Appreciate any thoughts.

Hi,

I’m new to the forum. I have a 15x30 semi-in ground pool. I had some yellow algae issues so I’m Wednesday night I brushed the entire pool and over shocked my pool with Calcium Hydrochloride powder shock. Took care of algae but my pool is still very cloudy and chlorine levels are high. Right now my total chlorine is about 10ppm and free is around 5ppm. A few hours ago I added 2 lbs of non chlorine shock. So far hasn’t seemed to bring down levels. What else if anything should I do to help bring down the combined chlorine level? I’d like to not just keep waiting it out bc it’s taking a long time and would like to enjoy the pool Right now ph is about 7.6.

Thanks, Kevin.

Greetings,

I'm looking for a pool cover that'll make it easier to open next year. The cover that I had been using sags from the weight of leaves and drops down to the point of where the water is, typically a foot .... just below the skimmer. I envision something that I can pull and latch that has some elasiticity to it. I can then blow it occasionally when leaves build up.

Hi SWG experts,
The original t-cell that was installed by the pool builder finally died earlier this month after about 5 1/2 years of service. I ordered a new Hayward OEM T-15 cell and installed it about 2 weeks ago. This new cell just doesn't seem to produce as much FC as my previous one. Has anyone had any similar experience before or have ideas for what else I could try?

Here is where I stand and what I've done so far:

• In the peak of summer like we are in right now, the old cell would maintain steady FC running at 80% for about 8-10 hours per day. Now I'm running 12 hours a day at 100% and I'm still losing 1ppm of FC every 3-4 days.
• It has been a particularly hot July here in Texas, but we've dealt with a week of 100+F before with this pool and I don't recall increasing FC demand this significantly.
• I've done a OCLT last week and passed: Measured FC of 6 at sunset. Tested 2x at sunrise just to be sure and measured 5.5 and 6 FC.
• Tested salt level is 3400. Aquarite panel displays 3300. There are no faults in the panel. I've done the salt level calibration a few times and the instant salt reading consistently settles at 3300.
• Confirmed the Aquarite panel is set to t-15.
• Visual inspection of the cell and plates doesn't show anything obviously suspicious.
• FC in the pool has never dropped below 4 since my old cell started dying on me earlier this summer.

Full test results from yesterday:
FC: 4.5 (I have added ~30oz of bleach since this test)
pH: 7.6
TA: 70
CH: 475
CYA: 50 (I'm adding 2 lbs via a sock in the pool right now)
Salt: 3390 (I'm only using AquaCheck test strip for salt, but this measurement has been consistent with every test in the past month)
Temp: 90-93 F most of the time for the past 2-3 weeks. Pool gets full sun most of the day.

The old cell was a Hayward T-15, and I've replaced it with a Hayward OEM T-15 cell, unless I've been duped. I got it online from Target (they sell it online, believe it or not, but from a 3rd party seller). I bought it there because I could get 5% off and hopefully easy 90 day returns. I've registered it with Hayward for the warranty, but at this point I'm debating just taking it back to Target and buying another one from a local pool store.

We are vetting contracts and PBer's. Fiberglass pool, most likely the Thursday Pools Aspen 40. I am meeting for the second time with one installer tomorrow, who I really like. But, their quote is for Jandy equipment. Specifically:

Jandy VS FloPro 1.85HP pump
Jandy CV340 Filter
Jandy TruClear SWCG
Jandy IQPump01 Congroller

They are willing to go to Pentair or Hayward equipment, but the models and websites for both are kinda confusing. What equipment should I be asking for? From Pentair it looks like one of the WhisperFlo models, along with the IC40 and the Clear and Clean Plus 320? Planning on 2 lights, and undecided on a heater. No spa, we are getting a dedicated hottub, so I was planning on skipping automation. Anyone have suggests or thoughts??? Huge thanks in advance!!!

We've had some issues with our SWG producing chlorine... turns out it was time for a new chlorinator. Got that replaced. We're making chlorine now, but water is cloudy (as in, can't see the drains in the 6 1/2 ft deep end).
Here's what I've got:
Salt: 3800 (a little high still)
Free Chlorine: 30
Combined Chlorine: 1
pH: 7.4
TA: 60
CYA: 80

What am I missing??

Hey friends. I'm having an issue with my pump basket not filling all the way when priming/running.
We called a pool service company out to look at it and they replaced some O-rings on the set up and proclaimed it was fixed, but the next day the pump basket was again super low. We've had this pool for 3 years and never had a problem with the water in the pump basket being so low - it's usually right up to the top or nearly so.
Other than replacing the O-rings, we've cleaned the filter and skimmer, checked other connections for air leaks, and cleaned out the impeller.
Is there anything else we can do for this? I've heard that having low water in the pump basket is bad and could damage your pool, but the repair guy told me "it's just how your pool runs", shrugged his shoulders and didn't do anything else to help me.
Is this true? If not, how do I go about fixing this? I attached a picture but not sure if you can see the water level, so I drew a yellow line where the water is sitting in the basket. If I need another service guy to come out, can i get recommendations for someone in South Houston, TX?

TIA.

Hello all!
This morning I got up and my pool pump was off. It is on a timer that runs 12 hours a day. I hit the reset button several times but it immediately shuts off again. I did notice last night that the plastic cover that I use over the motor to help keep it cooler looked a bit rough… As in a bit burnt? Photo below. We did have storms last night but no other issues with any other part of the house. Second photo is the specifications for the motor on the pump. Installed May 14, 2021 when it was difficult to get parts and this is what the pool company had at the time. Should a pool pump motor last more than two years? It has not been all that hot here in southwest Ohio this summer…

So my questions are:
Should I assume that my motor is shot and get a new one pronto? If so, do you guys have a recommendation for what I should look for? It looks like it might not be too difficult to install myself… especially with your expert guidance . No new wiring or anything.

Or should I call my electrician first?

Thank you!

I have been adding liquid bleach to my pool ever since I joined this forum. I was always careful that what I was using was plain regular bleach. Somebody up here in maine got chlorine poisoning from mixing two different types of beach. The bleach that I have been using from walmart was plain bleach, so I thought. Some of the bottles said "with fabric softner" I don't know what that is. So now I buy my bleach from the pool supply area in walmart. Any body else notice fabric softner on the label?

For 3/4 weeks now my pool is green, cloudy. Chlorine and PH is a little high. My alkalinity is a 10 of 100. If I raise my alkalinity with backing soda it’s gonna raise my Ph as well. Can I just throw in PH minus when I have the alkalinity at the right level. Will the high ph hurt the pool liner until I can get it down?

I posted about a month ago about replacing my pool lights, I finally got around to doing the replacements, and what I found with my old ones was quite disturbing. I'm glad these were the 12v version and not the 110v version. My suspicion is the glue/sealent used on this part degraded over time, we then had our liner changed and the heat from them sitting out of the pool caused it to shrink, and then after re-install there was water ingress. Both lights had the same failure point.

Just curious if anyone as done that. I am probably done with pressure side cleaners and probably migrating away from robots. Might try suction-side but I think things work better with a dedicated line and I have the pressure side polaris-style port in the pool already.

?

Lately I’m seeing their water gushing out from one of the hose attachments (where one hose meets another) of the pool vaccum. Also the cleaner gets too entangled causing it to get stuck after cleaning certain area

Is it possible to loose over 10ppm ( more closer to 20ppm) in one month?
I’m in the South of Spain. My pools water temperature has been around 30C or slightly higher for the past 3 months. I got my Taylor test kit on 13th July and immediately tested the cya, because I’d been relying on test strips before and we all know how inaccurate they are, but it’s the only thing they sell round here (I had to send off online for the Taylor kit and wait over 6 weeks for delivery from the States)
I followed the instructions here about testing - glance at the black dot, back to the sun, waist level, And got a reading of 70ppm. I checked with a friend if they also thought it was 70 by just glancing for the dot, and they agreed with me.
So I’ve been adding liquid chlorine 14% every day, and my pool is crystal clear. I’ve never had such sparkling, clear water!

Today I checked my cya levels and the black dot disappeared a hairs width under the 50ppm line.
I checked 3 or 4 times, and each time the same.
Is it possible to loose that much cya in 4 weeks?
My pool is in full sun 12 hours a day.
It’s used each day by 3 people at the most for 2 hours a day.
I’ve been keeping the chlorine levels at 7-8ppm (occasionally 9ppm)
The pH drifts upwards (7,8 -8) but I manage to get it down to 7,4 with muriatic acid once a week. My fill water has a high TA, hence my pool has TA 100 - 120. I’m guessing that is the reason my pH drifts up. But I’m not so concerned about TA. It’s my cya that has me perplexed…

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this.
Elaine

What happened to the newer version of the web page pool calculator? Not the early one with the colored page, the newer version that had no color panels. I liked it and It was easier to see all the info displayed with each test item. I've been using it and now I can't find it?

Looks like there is some grout missing between two of the tiles on my pool. Build is less than 1 year old, so not sure if this fell off or they missed it. Can I fix this myself? If so, is it just like grouting a tile floor? Does it need to be dry to setup?

If you're on the fence about getting an SWG, consider that I've barely touched the pool in the better part of two months... three trips in a row, with barely enough time to do laundry in between.. got home last night.
FC is perfect. pH is high, just added some acid. But look at that sparkle!

Greetings!

I am a father of three, in my second year of owning and maintaining (with middling results) a safe swimming environment for my kiddos in our above-ground pool.

I failed to properly close our pool last year (no cover, and never skimmed it after we took the pump off) and ended up with a soupy green mess at the bottom of the pool that I did not properly drain when I went to re-open it. I mucked out what I thought was most of the organic material and filled the thing up. (June 17th) It took me about a month of trying to level the chemicals out, and we upgraded to a much better sand filter after a few weeks of maddeningly changing the cartridges in the manufacturer-provided pump. I finally discovered the SLAM method after desperately searching Reddit, and that seems to have worked.

Now, the chemicals seem well balanced, but there is still a thin layer of what looks like sand sitting at the bottom that my vacuum just can't seem to get up in any meaningful amount. Otherwise, the water is clear and I can finally see to the bottom.

The kids have gotten in it a couple of times, and when they do, it kicks up all the debris and turns the water grey.

We've got probably another 50-60 days of swimming weather here in New Mexico, but I am wondering what, if anything, I can do to get the last of the dirt out before it's time to close things down again (with a cover this time).

Thanks, everyone, I look forward to learning from y'all - this website would have been a lifesaver before the season started.

Hello,
I.need help finding this particular valve handle. It's 1 1/2; inch . I've searched the internet pretty hard and haven't found this type

I'm nearly certain I don't have a leak and I didn't backwash during this time... so I am chalking it up to splash out and heavy use, but wanted to see what you guys thought.

July 4th my CYA was at 70 and salt was 3800. It's a brand new pool and that was my baseline to have it ready for swimming for the summer.

We have been using the pool heavily the entire month of July - we had family over and many pool parties. Water toys, cannonballs, lots of splashing. I would guess we used the pool 20+ days in the past month. I've noticed salt dropping per the chemistry menu in my Intellicenter and I also have been monitoring FC, which was up at 10 at the beginning of July and has been dropping with lots of use, so I've been turning up the SWG to compensate. But it's stable at around 3-4 right now.

I added stablizer and salt yesterday to get my levels back up but wanted to report this to the fine folks of TFP and get your thoughts.

Normal? Something else I am missing? Thanks!

Checking if my newly built pool has a leak before doing more leak tests.

Given the recent 107-122 heat indexes in the area, what has been your water loss?

I find that I'm putting in about 500 gallons in 16k 15x32 pool (close to an inch decrease on marked water level) every 4-5 days.

Pool water temp is around 84-85.

I read the following and it doesn't seem I have a leak issue but wanted to see what others with exposed pools (non shaded, non wind blocks) are experiencing.

Anyone tried this hack?

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I have a 16,000-galloon in-ground pool, and during the summer months here in Los Angeles, I find that I need to add 48 ounces of chlorine daily in order to maintain around 4 ppm of free chlorine/total chlorine. (Which translates to over two gallons of 10% sodium hypochlorite every week.) My other levels are: pH 7.8, TA 98, CH 267, CYA 30 (I'd like to raise CYA a bit, to maybe 40). At its daily peak, water temp hits 85 degrees. Really the only other chemical I add, once a week, is muriatic acid, to knock down my pH, which has a tendency to creep up to 8.1/8.2 over the course of a week. The water's crystal clear, I'm having zero problems, I'm just curious if this level of daily chlorine consumption is normal for this time of year, in this part of the country? Thank you!

The other day I found while swimming that my plaster pools step have gotten these breakage. I think it's there for a while but need to make sure things are right and I am doing my due diligence. I have learnt alot from this forum so posing the question for experts opinion

latest TPKit test results are within ideal

PH 8.2
CYA 58PPM
TA 100
TH 375