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This is a post for me to play with some moderator controls.

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trying to post a new thread

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posting w/ FF 1.5.0.11 on XP

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Sorry....no TFP, no chlorine, no SLAM, but....looks pretty good I think. Having a terrific season here in (hot and humid) Berks County.
Best wishes to all...stay cool.

Realy hard to admit it to myself, but I think I'm just tired of it all. Love swimming, but just weary of so much that goes along with keeping the thing going all summer. Been at this now for 32 years. I'm more and more finding myself so glad when the season is finally over and it's all closed up. Funny how age just starts to creep up on you. 65 sure doesn't feel like 55, which even mores didn't feel like 45. Will try to summon the energy this week yet to get the cover off and go from there. Best of luck to all for a wonderful season!!!

This weekend's tasks completed.
Uncovered and vacuumed debris to waste which also allowed me to exchange a few thousand gallons of old water. Still a little hazy but thats mostly stirred up debris. Backwashed the sand a couple times and the robot once. Brushed everything down, letting the robot go for another night spin.

1st pic is just after taking the cover off. Dumped a cup or two of 12% into the skimmer and pool.

Second pic is after vacuuming and letting the robot go on its first seek and destroy mission. That Dirt Devil (Tigershark, Aquabot clone) is on its 2nd motor and 2nd set of tracks. Keeps on going.

Ed here. I'll ask my question first and then give some back ground as I want to share some info and a few lessons so far.
QUESTION: I am at stage 2 of Baquacil to chlorine conversion process ie CYA 30, FC 15ppm and keeping CC<.5 for 2 days. Do I need to get my CYA down to 30 pronto or can I wait for it to maybe go down with some rain we are due to get today?? CYA: 50 and has been 50 for past 12 hours, FC: 15ppm, CC's: .5 PH: 7.4-7.6

Been reading on this site for 6 months now. Great Info! Thank you all TFP and especially ssJody and his conversion thread. So Iam at Day 6 of my conversion and at stage 2 where I am holding FC at 15, CYA at 30 and no more that .5 CC's and wanted to share some info.
Starting last year I quit adding any Baquacil about a month prior to closing pool. During winter I covered pool and drained all rain water into pool(and of course drained pool when water got to high). I used a few old RV water filters at end of drain hose to keep dirt and junk out. This made draining cover take longer but worth it I think(last month of draining was the "pollening" season here). I calculated I drained about 3 feet of water into pool over winter.
Opened up pool 2 weeks ago and it was a little green and mostly just cloudy. Notice yellowish film on sides and bottom so decided to brush and vacuum to waste. Our water here is not that expensive and the water company here is good about filling pools and will not charge you the sewer fee if you call them and tell them how many days you will be filling pool so did that. I calculated another 2 feet of water doing this vacuuming to waste. With this complete decided to go for it and not replace water using tarp method. I used some left over Baqucil test strip and they showed no Oxidizer. AHHH well it really showed low oxidizer and there is no test for the CDX(I did have Baqucil and maybe cdx still left in there as my conversion proved).
Day 1 started the conversion using TFP pool school Baquacil to Chlorine conversion process. Started with 10 gallons of Pool Essentials Chlorinating Liquid from WALMART($3.47 a gallon) Ha! not nearly enough and was back on day 2 getting 10 more.
Day 2- 4 Adding chlorine checking FC levels scooping leaves. SUN EATS CHLORINE almost as fast as you can add it. In hindsight I think I should have put pool cover back on for these days. I read some threads where yall suggested that with some people. anyway was really concentrating on overnight loss of FC.
Morning Day 5 No overnight loss of FC, maybe 1, but I declared victory and am now on to stage 2.
Day 5 Changed out sand filter. UGH!! What a pain and it always has been(PS Iam in my early 60s and its different now than 15 years ago when I first started all this pool maintenance, Ha!). Added CYA using sock method and put it my filter basket for about an hour. Then I sat and squeezed the sock for about 30 more minutes. Would have LOVED to have some liquid CYA at this point cause I was beat just from the sand filter change out. But I realize from more TFP threads this is the best way for adding CYA. So I waited another hour for stuff to circulate and tested for CYA. It came up around 30 - 40. That dang dot test is a bit tricky. FC was a little low at 8 ppm ie sun had been up for 3 hours. Added Chlorine to fix that.
Evening Day 5 CYA now shows 50(did 2 tests to make sure) FC a little low again so added Chlorine. CC: <.5
Morning Day 6 before sun up CYA still at 50, Chlorine solid at 15 ppm, CC: <.5

So above pics are of the Chlorine I got from WALMART, Pre Day 1, Day 1 of adding Chlorine and now Day 5
What a transformation I will attest Baquacil never got my pool this clear. I now know the definition of a sparkling clear pool! For Maddie of Yippie Skippy I did not get the 70's acid trip but it was a wild flourescent green for about a day.

Bumping this in hopes of spurring more TFP Donations through Amazon -



I would like to suggest that my $1.50 in Amazon Smile generated donations be given to Leebo for all of his tireless work....there's just enough there for single espresso shot at Starbucks....

Seriously though, if anyone feels like directing their Amazon Smile charity to TFP, every little bit helps the site.

Since selling TFP and passing the torch, I feel less self-promoting by making this type of post, so I'd like to point out some of the features and benefits that you get at TFP that other sites either don't have or charge a fee for....

Some sites charge for the use of forum features, but not TFP. At TFP, simply by registering for FREE, you are able to:
-- Use the Forum search function
-- Use Text formatting --- the ability to choose different fonts, colors, text styles, smilies,etc. in your posts
-- Use high capacity Private Messaging Inbox to be able to communicate with other members privately on the forum
-- Ability to post links within your posts
-- Ability to post pictures within your posts
-- Ability to create and post an avatar to personalize your posts
-- Unlimited post count
-- Full access to all the articles in Pool School and all the other information necessary to keep your pool clean and clear.

You get all that for FREE with no annoying on-page advertising! Other sites are charging annual fees just to use basic forum functions but TFP allows non-paying users to have full forum functionality for a great user experience. Registering at TFP is also very easy... no invasion of your privacy is required!

If you value the advice and information you find here and do choose to become a TFP Lifetime Supporter, the cost is only $30 (compared to up to $120 at other sites! ) and the term Lifetime means what it says... not 3 or 5 years, but the lifetime of the forum, which we hope will be very long.

So I'd like to say from my, now less biased, point of view... thanks to all of you who helped begin TFP. Thanks to those who have supported the forum with your time and posts and also to those of you who have chosen to support the site financially to help build it to this point and also thanks to future supporters who continue to help Jason and Dave grow and expand the site and features that we all enjoy!

Thanks,
Sean

Plenty of dead robots to go around...


Thanks,

Jim R.

Do you shower before and after? Do you just shower before? Do you just shower after?

Or do you not shower at all?

I'm afraid to answer this publically. Oops, I think I just did...

My T15 salt cell is gong out (after about 3.5 years) and its making me wonder how close the math is for SWG vs liquid chlorine? Seems like pre covid liquid chlorine would have been been the clear winner. With inflation and other things it seems like a lot of places want approx $10 for a gallon of 12% liquid chlorine. I think you would have to always be hunting for sales to make the math pan out. Granted it's $900 for a t15 cell now plus I figure I spend at least $100 a year on acid. So lets say that's around $400 a year on chemicals with SWG if factoring the cost of the cell. My pool is 26000 gallons so id probably need at 2-3 gallons of 12% liquid chlorine a week during the hot months AZ? What do you all think is the cheapest method? There are clear pros and cons to each. Just curious. One pool we own is 26000gal SWG the other is 12000 gal but the Wife takes care of that one since its our rental and just uses tabs.

Gunite just occurred a few days ago and I'm watering and couldn't help but notice how far off center this pool light is on this piece of 12' straight wall which faces back toward the house. This wall will be extended up 4 feet and have 3 water scuppers that are supposed to be centered on the wall as well. The pipes coming up for those are also off center too, though not as much as the pool light. I assume the scuppers can still be corrected to be centered with the wall with the remaining plumbing to be done as so where those pipes come up may not matter much. But that pool light.... In the day time I'm sure it won't be noticeable at all but I worry at night the lack of precision in placement will be obvious and with the 3 water scuppers hopefully centered as they should be that the area will look 'dumb' with the light nearly a foot off center.

The drawing had the light centered but there is the disclaimer that plumbing final positions may vary due to steel placement. That being said, I have pictures of the steel placement before gunite (I failed to notice at that stage how far off the light was and that's not my job anyway), and it looks like they window the steel for the light cage and could put it exactly where it needs to be. Apparently the steel people just used the light dug out spot from the excavation people, which must have been eye-balled and not measured, and no one bothered to check for centering.

This wall faces back toward the house and so the light will be very visible at night and I assume will further catch attention with the water scuppers. There is another pool light at a different end on a curved wall that is centered (or close enough it doesn't catch the eye), and I know this one could have been done much better. Can this be corrected now? Would you care?

I've attached a pic of the offending light, the other light done well, and the pool layout. Thanks.

I’ve had a tough time with my builder lately and wanting to terminate contract. Besides not getting along, poor communication, and lack of attention to detail, I feel I have to constantly watch over his shoulders. I should have known better to hire a family-ran pool business, as the owner’s son is, I feel, crooked and sneaky. I’ve caught three things thus far that he’s tried to get by me and it’s really irritating. Makes me wonder what I haven’t caught and if any corners are being cut I don’t know about…

I’m about to get gunite and I paid some money already. What I’m not sure about is how others have done it and avoided court action. I’m having my contract reviewed, but I want to cut ties and terminate builder. Has anyone successfully done so, specifically in Texas, and how did it end up?
I’ve been in project management for many years and have contacts to finish it up. I’m sure I could complete the pool and save some money, although it may take a little longer. The final straw was stalling next phase until he gets paid. Loan company pays within three days of each major stage, so not sure how much quicker they want paid. It’s been slowly boiling for a while and now it’s gotten to the point where the trust is gone, as is the working relationship.

Hello everyone! We're just getting started on a new pool build at our new house in Austin, TX. After following so many threads here on TFP and learning a TON, we decided to go the BYOP route and I'll be managing the build (and possibily doing some of the work myself where it makes sense) rather than hiring a pool builder.

Here's what we have so far:

• Pool Size: 18' x 32'
• Pool depth: 4' to 6' (depth from middle of waterline tile)
• Tanning ledge: 7' x 21', 9" deep (from middle of waterline tile)
• Spa: 8' x 8'
• Total volume: ~11k gallons

We've got our 3D design finalized (which I'll attach) and I just got our pre-engineering plans the other day (site layout).

Here are my outstanding questions that I'd love some advice/feedback on before I send them over to be finalized:

1. We're planning on a salt water system and going with all Pentair equipment (the site plan attached doesnt reflect that yet). I know the common wisdom is to pick a cell that's 2x your pool volume, so it seems that would put me in the IC20 range, but I only see Intellicenter bundles that come with the IC40 or IC60 cells. Am I left with buying the IC20 and Intellicenter separately (or maybe there IS a bundle and I just missed it), or should I just go with the (likely oversized) IC40?
2. They spec'd a 400k BTU propane heater. We're only planning on using the heater for the spa, so is that overkill? The main deciding factor here is if I can get a 2" propane line to the pad, which is what the site plan is calling for. I know I can get a 1" line over there which is what I saw as a requirement for the 200k BTU heater (looking at the Pentair Master Temp 200k propane model)
3. Is it worth it to run electrical and plumbing for a chiller? We're in Austin; it's been over 100 degrees here for what seems like forever this summer. Those of you that put one in, was it worth it? Would love opinions on Glacier chillers vs. a heat pump system.
4. Number of skimmers: current plans only spec out 1 on the top right corner of the pool. Is that sufficient or should another be added?
5. Im planning on using Pentair microbrites. They've spec'd 5 total: 4 in the pool one in the spa. This seems like it should be sufficient.

Total equipment list Ive come up with (all Pentair):

• Intellicenter with IC20 or 40 salt cell
• IntelliFlo3 VSF 3.0HP pump
• MasterTemp 200k BTU heater
• Clean & Clear Plus, 420 Sq. Ft. Cartridge Filter
• Microbrite color LED lights (x5)
• Pentair IntelliValve actuators (however many I need...)

Need recommendations on:

• Check valves (Pentair? Jandy? Other?)
• Diverter valves (Jandy never lube? Pentair? Other?)
• Blower for the spa
• Anything else I might be missing

And now, for the pictures!

Hi there, I'm looking into building a 7,000 - 10,000 gallon salt water pool with an 8 x 8 spa and would like to get some advice. We're considering pebble tech finish in either grey or black, with flushed spa and sun deck. We are open to a water feature, but want to preserve as much yard space as possible. Would be useful to hear from others regarding best decisions they made and things they wish they had done differently.

I've complied a list of basic questions:

• What is a good brand of equipment? (Jandy, Hewyard or Pentrair)
• How many lights do you suggest?
• Are there any automations we should be looking into?
• Should we add a built-in pool cleaner? Or just buy a pool robot?
• Construction advice?

Appreciate any feedback on this.

Thanks

Why do I want to do this? I live in Toronto and I have a Jacuzzi J345 tub that is from about 2006 and it does not have any sort of timer or scheduler functionality. My electricity costs vary a lot by time of day, so I want to control when my tub’s heater is running. Overnight my costs are 2.4c/kWh. From 4-9pm the cost is 24c/kWh – 10X higher. I chose this rate plan because I have an EV and it makes it cheaper for me to charge my car, but it also lets me think about time-shifting other electrical power consumption. So, I want to heat my tub when the electricity is cheap. (Note that the costs quoted exclude indirect electricity costs like distribution and transmission fees but I am more considered about the differential between the different times and those fees are constant throughout the day).

What did I do? I put a Sonoff POWR3 smart switch between the power leads and the heater power input. Smart switch means that the tub connects via wifi to my LAN so it can be controlled by apps, an API, a home automation system, etc. So, when the switch is off the heater does not get any power. But the rest of the tub is getting power so the pumps will still run, and the control unit works. If the water temperature calls for the heater to be on the tub’s control unit thinks that it is heating the tub, but it really isn’t.

This smart switch has a power rating of 5500W which is the same as the power output of my heater – so that is cutting it close. This switch can be controlled by the eWeLink app on my phone and it can handle 240V which is what the heater uses. Having a smart switch allows you to set up sophisticated scheduling, where you can turn it on or off multiple times per day and have different schedules for different days of the week. The smart switch also monitors power consumption so you can see how much energy the heater is using. I am planning to flash the firmware of this switch to Tasmota which is an open-source firmware which will allow me to have more direct local control of the switch, and to monitor the power consumption by storing it in a database of text file. I will also then control the timer from my Control4 home automation system rather than the eWeLink app.

What exactly did I do? I disconnected the power leads that went from the power block (orange circle) to the heater power inputs on the circuit board (purple circle). I ran new 10 AWG wire from the power block up to the input of the smart switch. Then I ran two other 10 AWG wires from the output of the smart switch to the heater power input on the circuit board. I put the wires in liquidtight and used a pre-existing hole from the wiring box with a liquidtight connector to provide a waterproof seal for the wiring box.

What is left to do? I should put the switch in some sort of project box to protect it from potential water exposure. But I am worried that it might get too hot if it is in a watertight project box. I also want to put a temperature probe into the tub so that I can monitor the water temperature. Then I can keep a log of water temperature, power usage, and ambient temperature to also see how the heater’s power consumption varies with the outdoor temperature.

Aren’t I worried that the water will freeze? The main freezing worry is with the water in the pipes that go from the pumps to the heater. The tub runs the main pumps every hour or so to recirculate the water. And there is a smaller pump that continually recirculates the water. Having the main tub not be heated for 12 hours, or more, is not going to drop the water more than a few degrees and won’t significantly affect the temperature of the water in these pipes. By putting the power switch only on the heater and not on the rest of the tub system the pumps will still continue to run.

Sorry this is a bit long.
So as some of you might know I normally fill my hot tub from my pool, due to the high iron content of my well water. Seems my sand filter cleans out the iron very well, If I have to fill the pool with the hose I'll get a green tint to the pool so I run a 24 hr filter session and it clears it all up. Whenever I (use to) fill the hot tub with the hose it would get a bit ugly, the cartridge filter would look like a coffee filter and I would get a bathtub ring in the hot tub. So I started filling the hot tub with my pool water and eliminated that problem. However, I have a Saltron mini in my hot tub which calls for 2000-2400 ppm salt, and my pool chlorine generator calls for about 3500 ppm salt which is too much for the hot tub. Normally I would wait for a big rain that would dilute the pool and I would fill the hot tub then. Lately we have had a big shortage of rain so that wasn't going to work and the other day my Saltron threw a code stating my salt level was too high and it quit working. Hmmm.. I've been debating getting a sand filter for the hot tub for a while and this forced my hand. I bought a small Intex filter for a small above ground pool., its like 950 gph pump/filter combo, finally got it yesterday and got it all set up and running. Drained half the tub and refilled with well water straight from the hose (I do have one of those hose end filters but not sure if it really does what it says) and got the new sand filter running , so tomorrow I'll pull the hot tub filter and see how it looks, I'm guessing it'll be pretty brown, I'll replace it and see how the replacement looks in a couple days and I'll report back.

Hi all,

It seems that the only place I found the advise of keeping TA down to even as low as 50ppm is here… though more ideally in the range of 70-100 perhaps. Everyone else is suggesting higher levels, from Jacuzzi to Frog, to Swim Univeristy who suggest 100-150ppm!

Is everyone wrong? Are we the chosen few who know the truth? What is going on?

Thanks,

Andrew

Well, this moved quicker than expected. The permit was approved yesterday, and we dug today!

I have another thread with some plumbing designs; I'll bring everything over here.

Pool details:
18x36, 3.5-5ft waterline
18x7 sunshelf, 6"
6x10 raised spa
36' raised wall with 3 LED sheer descents

Decking/coping:
Beach Beige Porcelain Pavers


Tile:
Artistry in Mosaics Mirage


Raised spa and wall facing:
Crossville Studios - More Nut


Pebble:
Stonescapes Mini Aqua White


Before:

After:





We are bringing in 10 loads of dirt tomorrow to level it out.

I was able to get 3 years out of the Warrior SI we purchased from Marina Pools. When it died earlier this year I was kicking buckets.

Given the price increases, thought we’d switch back to manual vacuuming until either something on sale came along or technology for solar advanced.

Took about a month for us to realize the robot had us spoiled and manual vacuuming was for the birds!

Decided to give the Wybot WY3312 and a Betta SE (2023) skimmer a try (both from Amazon). Betta turned out to be a good purchase! But the Wybot was disappointing.

Wybot couldn’t climb the floor to get to the walls in our deep end (around 10’), but neither could the SI (it had a remote though and we were able to steer it to clean as needed. The Wybot did not).
But the Wybot also refused to clean some of the flat (no incline) areas of the pool despite probably 15 cycles.

Add in the pain of lugging it out of the pool for recharging it every day, and there were just too many negative items to say it was worth even the low price.

After returning it to Amazon and them holding the refund hostage for 28 days I happened to notice yesterday that Leslie’s had the JCRX (made by Jacuzzi) on sale for $999 (usually $1259). Wasn’t able to find a whole lot of reviews on it outside of the Leslie’s website (only a few here) but decided to give it a try.

Put it in the pool today and first impressions:
1. Wish they had an option to purchase it without the caddy. We don’t need it and would have preferred to not spend the extra $100 on it.

2. Unboxing and setup was easy.

3. Put it in the pool and straight away it climbed the floor and wall of the deepest end of our pool!

4. Shortly after, it went to our wedding cake steps. The robot is too large to be able to effectively clean the steps, but the Warrior couldn’t even make it up the first step. The Wybot was able to get to step 2, but would get stuck and it too was too big to really clean them. The JCRX made it all the way up to the top step, then descended back down to the pool floor.

5. After about an hour of cleaning the robot stopped. Not sure why as it Should have been about 2.5 hours for the cycle.

I used the retrieval button on the base to get it to circle to the wall I wanted it to climb. It went straight to it and climbed the wall as it should have. It was relatively light weight and I pulled it out, dumped the filter basket, and put it back in. Pressed start and it’s back on its way doing its thing.

Note: if you have a need for a remote, the retrieval button on the base of the unit might suffice for you! Not the most efficient means, but if you have a difficult area or a specific spot to get, it’ll do the trick.

I prefer the collection basket over that of the Warrior. The Warrior had pleated filters and it required you to take it to the hose to get them clean. The JCRX has a mesh type filter. Once you dump it, you can dunk it in the pool and the remaining debris gathers in one area, remove it, repeat.

One BIG reason we decided to give the JCRX a chance is because if you sign up to be a Leslie’s rewards member (free) they extend to warranty on the unit for an additional year. Since I got it on sale, this makes the cost of the robot (worst case scenario) $333 per year if it only lasts 3 years. To me, that’s a price I’m willing to pay. Not sure when the sale ends, but might be worth a trip to Leslie’s or ordering online.

Wybot:
WYBOT Robotic Pool Cleaner for In... Amazon.com

Beta Skimmer: Betta SE (2023 Model) - Solar Powered Automatic Robotic Pool Skimmer with Enhanced Core Durability and Re-Engineered Twin Salt Chlorine Tolerant Motors (White) Amazon.com

JCRX: https://lesliespool.com/jacuzzi-jcrx-robotic-pool-cleaner/63658.html

This forum has been an amazing source of information. We signed our contract with the PB in Feb and break ground Monday 12/4.

I wanted to share our progress during the build through pictures and comments so I can get your feedback along the way.

16x30 IG vinyl liner salt water sport pool with auto-cover.

We plan to pour a large concrete deck (about 1400-1500 total sq ft) and have a 16x12 gazebo.

Our yard is at an odd slope as we have a walk out basement and live on the curve of a cul-de-sac so we will also have a 3-4' retaining wall to level out the side yard we are building on. Pictures along the way will help make this all make sense.

We are so excited as we have an almost 4 year old girl and a 1.5 year old boy who love to swim.

Here is the gear and design features. All gear is Pentair.
- Intelliflo VSF 3 HP with TouchScreen
- TA60 Sand Filter
- IC40 SWCG
- UltraTemp120 Heat / Cool pump
- 2x Microbrites w/ controller
- Concrete coping
- stadium steps
- bench/exit step on opposite side of pool

We are not doing automation, and we may regret that but we are passing for now.

Running 100A sub panel to the equipment pad as I have low voltage lighting I am doing for the retaining well, lots of electrical for the gazebo and future planning for an outdoor kitchen, etc...

I have two Sonos Amps and 4 Polk Atrium 8's that will be installed around the pool / gazebo area and there are 4 Polk Atrium 4s existing on the deck near by.

The gazebo will be the 16x12-barrington-gazebo

We bought Polywood furniture on black friday. two longer, two chairs with match cough, fire pit, multiple side tables and two adirondack chairs.

So far, we are having a blast buying and planning. Spending money like we have no budget. The American dream at work! Ha.

More to come! Please ask questions as I will likely learn something from the question's you're asking!

We hope to be done, short of the liner, cover and water, before Xmas.

1. On the first of each month, a contest "theme" will be announced (i.e. water clarity, family fun, decking, custom features, lighting, scenery, etc)
2. Members have 10 days to UPLOAD ONE image for consideration; Photo must be related to the thread titled theme for that month.
3. Per general TFP rules, nothing profane, political, or insulting.
4. The first 10 days is the submission period. Posts are limited to ONE image ONLY. No discussion posts yet. This will make viewing much easier for all.
5. Days 11 - 15 the thread will be locked and is for voting only. No more uploads. Viewers now have a final opportunity to vote (or modify their selection) for their favorite upload.
6. Members are encouraged to use an emotion icon ("Like" or "Love") to vote for their favorite upload; it will be tough, but select only one favorite.
7. On day 16, emotion Likes/Loves will be tallied for a winner. In the event of a tie, we will create a poll on the thread to make a final selection.
8. Once a winner is announced, the thread will be unlocked and comments/discussions are welcomed. Winner and nominees can tell us all about their pool/photo/event.
9. A member can only be selected as winner once per calendar year.
10. Winner will receive a $50 gift certificate from tstestkits.net! Oh, and maybe some bragging rights.

Let's see those holiday pics in/around your pool. Have fun and good luck to those who apply!

Curious what everyone’s thoughts are on this new device/service Leslie’s is about to release?

It appears to be a home version of the device they use for testing in store but seems like there would be less risk of employee error or cross contamination when it’s in your own home.

The $50 month is a little steep however you do get $50 in store credit every month that you can use for anything from chemicals to parts to toys. You can also pause it during the months when pool is closed.

Let me know what you all think?

Hello!

We just bought a neat mid-century modern house from the original owners. It has a pool and spa and a pretty neat controller or both on the wall in the primary bedroom.

It says Jandy Industries and so I gave them a call. They were very helpful and tried their hardest to find me an answer which included an almost hour long phone call and many escalations to different departments, but ultimately they could not identify it even with the photo I sent.

I joined here to see if someone has one, or knows what is is and possibly has a manual I could read!

I sort of have it figured out, I tested the pump and sweep to come on by setting the time 5 minutes from the time it currently was and it turned them on but I don't know how to tell it when to shut-off. I really just would like to find out more about it and be able to read how to program it!!

Thanks!