hi - just cleaned my ichlor and it's spotless, had the water tested & everything reads perfect but can not figure out why it is reading CELL on the display? Thanks for any help.

I just learned that the water in my moms inground pool has been removed. The pool was built in 1982 not sure what it is made of but the plaster or gunite is coming off. Do not know how long the water has been out maybe two years could be more. I will post some pics. The pool is in Chico Ca.

Hey guys new to the forum and I’ve already done some research but looking for some help. I have a pentair master temp 400 pool heater. Recently I went thru and replaced the thermistor, HLS, AGS, SFS, and thermal regulator. Now the issue I’m having with the heater is that it turns on, I hear the blower turn on and then it Ignites, it runs for about 2-3min and then turns off and I get a AFS light and service light that comes on. If I turn power completely to the heater it does the same cycle over again. The pool heater was working fine and just started doing this. Any recommendations on where to start? Thanks

Maybe is has been posted before, I didn't find and...... Ouch.

My firmware was 3.x.x for both MPS and MPP. I reached out to Hayward for guidance to update to current version. They sent two files. Both with the same name. 4.0.0 After I downloaded them to a 16gb usb (one named 4.0.0 and the other 4.0.0(1) ), the Omnilogic didn't see the files. Frustrated... I just jumped to the current firmware posted on Hayward. I told my contact at Hayward what I had done and got this reply......

"I have spoken with our omni logic team and by you jumping this far in firmware updates it has a glitch with the configuration. The only way to fix this would be to delete the current configuration and re-configure the unit. you cannot save the current configuration, and try to reload it, as you will still get errors." Does anyone here have experience with "glitch" installs between 4.0.0 and current version?

Well isn't that Nice? As my main board is Wacked (other postings on this board), I sent the board to a repair service in N.J. Either it works when I get it back or I'll just buy a new board and continue my efforts. I do have a backup configuration files dating back to 3.x.x So, maybe this won't be the mess it seems to be today.

Think I'll apply for a job as Omnilogic software Guru when this is over....

Carlb

In Florida. I am moving. House not sold. Hard to find anyone to watch 8 X 12 ft swim spa. Has salt water with Cl generator so Cl stable over many weeks with no use of spa. Ph get wonky at times. I will be back every month to check on it. Any opinions on 1) leave it filled, or 2) drain it. Thanks.

Hello,
About a week or two ago my pool heater LCD display does not come on when I press any of the buttons on the panel. I am reaching out to Pentair and my pool builder as it is still under warranty. However, I want to see if there is something I am missing that maybe I can easily do myself. I checked the subpanel for the pool equipment and flipped the breaker for the pool heater on and off several times. All the other equipment connected to the subpanel is working fine. Other than flipping the breaker, I am not sure what else I can try.

I had some thoughts I wanted to run by you pool nerds.

I live in an area with pretty gross high chlorinated, scale water. I don't want to drink it, so I was thinking I should look into options for both the automated filler, and for washing down the deck.

I thought hey, let me just get one of those in lines hose filters they use at RV parks.


Any thoughts? Any setups you like? Anything you have done that you wish you didn't?

Last week my Hayward Goldline Aqua-Rite for TCell-15 unit was not displaying anything and all LEDs were off, so I reset the generator by power cycling at the electrical panel and the generator went from a blank screen with no illuminated lights to one that displayed "Err2" with 4 lower right LEDs (no flow, check salt, high salt, and inspect salt) all flashing red quickly. After 13 seconds the top right light (power) went solid green and all the other lights turned off and the display read 2600 and nothing else happened. What was that all about please?

Shortly after that experience a few times, I power cycled a few more times and finally it was solid green power and solid green generating and I could see it began to generate and current rose and voltage dropped as expected, with 3200 being displayed. When I pushed the diagnostic button, I got the following reads: 81, 23.9, 6.43, 99P, -3700, Al-1, r 1.33, and back to 3200 and running/generating still. I only noticed a few days later it was blank again, not running, and had a blown glass 20A fuse.

The PCB of the main board is: 066012B-1 Rev B, and as indicated above runs r 1.33. The display board part number is 132604 Rev F. The overall model number is AQ-RITE.

As of now, I have a blown 20A glass fuse on the bottom of the unit and am waiting for a new one to arrive. Given this is a glass fuse, I'm now learning my Goldline Aqua Rite is an old unit apparently from before Hayward's acquisition in 2004.

I'm now trying to formualte a strategy on what to do next with my AQ-RITE unit.

I read in another forum to remove and solder in a new Ametherm SL32 2RO25-B Thermistor (the black looking lolly pop) as that is a sacrificial part apparently. I naturally also have to replace the glass fuse. May try replacinf the fuse first and seeing if it pops again, which seems likely.

Should I replace the main or display boards? Should I replace the rectifiers? Should I say my unit of 20 years has lived it's life and get a new unit, if so, would I replace it with W3AQR15?

Thank you all for your support!

I have pictures and video too..

Any help is appreciated as seems no pool contractor in my area knows what to do or willing to work on it. I have what appears to be a hybrid pool. Bottom is concrete and walls are fiberglass panels. Behind these 8 feet fiberglass panels is galvanized steel walls (no idea why). As you can see from picture, the connection between wall and floor is lifting and cracking causing a leak. It appears as if previous owner did these fiberglass patches to connect wall to floor himself unprofessionally over existing paint which is causing it to lift now. What are my options to fix? Should I consider vinyl? Should I consider removing fiberglass walls back to steel? Should I remove paint, seal and then plaster?

Hi everyone,
I'm new and to be 100% honest, not a fan of pools. But my house has one so i have to look after it
I live in The Turks & Caicos where water costs 4 cents a gallon and power is over 50 cents a kwh so pools are pricey.
I'm here to learn, you guys are clued up and i wish i had come here first. I naively bought an ichlor 15 thinking it was suitable for my 13,000 gallon pool. It was NOT
So i upgraded to an ichlor 30 which i feel like was a dumb move. I'm tempted to go ic-60 and run it at 20% but undecided. I will give the iChlor 30 a chance first !
Anyway, nice to meet you all from a clueless Brit on a rock in the Atlantic !

Quick question: If I want to switch from Color 5g intellibrite lights (12V) to White LED intellibrite (12V), could I simply replace the light engine board with a kit like the Pentair 619917Z and re-use the color LED housing, or are there more components on the fixture other than the light engine unique to color lights vs. white lights?

​

Hi all. First time poster, long time lurker who has learned so much from all you great folks here on TFP. Thank you!

Here's our issue:

Mar 2021. Latham fiberglass pool installed in Tucson, AZ. Terrible installation.

Sep 2022. Leak in a return. PB dug it up and repaired it.

Jan 2023. Pool shell cracked (photos attached, sorry nothing there for scale); crack was 4-5 mm wide, 10 mm long, vertically offset 2-3 mm). PB dug up the entire side where the leak was, put 18 coats of fiberglass on the outside of the leak, backfilled (properly, this time). Sanded down the crack on the inside, supposedly did a fiberglass repair, but I think all he actually did was apply some gel coat to try to make it look good. A few days after he left and the pool was refilled, I swam down to the repair with goggles and saw a hairline crack had reappeared, 1mm or less wide and 8-10 mm long, vertically flush. Pool is not leaking as far as I can tell. Repair was completed in April 2023.

May 2023. We submitted a warranty claim to Latham after confirming PB never did so. With MUCH effort over several months, we got Latham to agree to repair the shell. But given this was a Latham-authorized installer, and given how nearly impossible it has been to get Latham to even talk to us, we don't know if we trust them to do the repair correctly. Also, they would require us to brace and drain the pool (which we'll have to hire out). We're wondering if the risk of making the repair is greater than leaving it alone.

Sep 2023. Found a company in Phoenix with expertise in fiberglass pool repair. They looked at the pool and, even though the crack is no longer visible (???), they thought we should let Latham do the warranty repair since they agreed to do so. This company also noted a second problem: from the installation photos I provided them, they pointed out that ABS glue (black) was used on the PVC pipe for all the plumbing. We expect that won't last much longer (right?). Quoted us $17K to dig it all up and replace all the plumbing. Also quoted $25K to fully re-glass the pool, with a 10 year warranty if we wanted to do that instead of letting Latham repair just the crack.

We are stumped on how to proceed. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you so much!
Jim & Lisa

Starting a thread for the soon to be under construction of my Viking fiberglass pool that has air pockets under the gel coat that have now become holes. I submitted a warranty claim earlier this week, haven't heard back yet. It was installed in 2020 and we just noticed this now.

My Ray-Pak 400k makes an expansion noise, kind of a single light bang, every few minutes when running. I understand why it would do it if the flame were cycling on/off, but the flame is on all the time.
Just strikes me as odd the way it makes a noise like that when the water flow and flame are consistent. Probably does it every minute or so. Similar to sound if you were to tap on the outside cover for the heater, not a tic, tic tic type expansion noise.
Been doing it the last couple of seasons. Any ideas other than the obvious expansion of the manifold?

Edit to update:
After using shop vac to remove some leaves and then reversing the vac to blow around inside the heater it is no longer making the noise.
Not sure exactly what I did to fix it, but cleaning did the trick.
Thanks for your help!

I have had a leak somewhere in my pool plumbing for a while; just hadn't been that bad until recently. I suspected suction side, as most of the time it seemed to lose more water when the pump was not running. Well, about a month and a half ago, it got bigger; was dropping 2-3 inches per day, with or without pump running. Also sucking a lot of air into the pump and not able to build and maintain normal pressure. Called a leak detection company, but they had about a 3 week backlog, so I ended up shutting off the pump and letting it sit to see how far it would drop. The water level dropped steadily to about a foot below the skimmer opening. Next step was to inspect the pool shell (fiberglass) at that level; did not see anything. Next, I added back a couple inches of water and did the dye/syringe test around the perimeter at the level it stopped dropping, and did not see any motion. Also did dye test around the main drain the best I could, also could not see any flow towards the main drain.

So, since leak detection company needed pool full to normal level, I capped the port in the skimmer basket and refilled. I also ran an above ground suction line to be able to filter the water, etc. This worked great, with the pump no longer sucking air and building proper pressure. Seemed to further confirm a suction side leak. Over the next 2+ weeks waiting for the leak detection company, water level held steady (probably a couple inches lower than I should have put it, as they were forecasting heavy rains that didn't come; 1/3 of the way up skimmer opening rather than the 2/3 I normally try to run...).

Leak detection company came yesterday and did acoustic search, dye test around all inlets/outlets, and pressure test on suction and return lines (except main drain) which were all ok. They also were able to scuba down to the main drain to do the dye test much more effectively that I had been able to. They were unable to do the pressure test on the main drain, though, as they could not get a pressure plug in it due to the fitting in the photo. They believe it is glued in, and they would need to drain the pool and cut it out to test it, at which point I would just have them cap the pipe and patch the wall of the pool leaving just the skimmer anyway, I think. My preference would be to just plug it as is...

My questions are, does all of this serve to confirm the problem is in the main drain suction line? Or is there anywhere else I should look? And, is anyone familiar with the fitting in the photo? To me, it looks like it was probably caulked in place and threads in like the eyeballs in the returns. If so, is there a chance it could be removed and capped there? I'd prefer not to have to drain the pool quite yet; it will likely have to happen soon to have it resurfaced anyway, and could cut/patch at that point, but would like to get it operational without the above-ground line for the rest of the season if possible...

Thank you for your feedback!

We own my elderly mother’s home next door to us which has an inground liner pool (about 25K gallons, 9 ft deep end to 3.5 Ft shallow). The liner is shot, needs to be replaced—pool has been leaking there and likely a leak in one of the pipes too.
We are finishing construction on a gunnite pool on our yard and and zero desire to keep this other pool going. But, I’m not interested in filling it with dirt bc maybe one day down the road we (or the next owner) may want to invest in this pool. So, what’s the cheapest, lowest-maintenance option?

My thought is to drain all the water out of the pool, attempt to brace the sides of the pool with 2 x 4s to try to prevent the walls from collapsing in (the pool company winterizing me will help me with this, but I just need to release them if any liability), put a sump pump down in the deep end to pump water out, and cover it (we have a mesh cover). Does that sound OK?

I didn’t want to keep water in the pool and leave it covered bc I don’t want it to get all nasty and be a breeding ground for mold, algae, mosquitos, or other critters. Even if I dump shock in under the cover once a month, I’m not sure that would keep things sanitary enough.

Anyone else have any experience with closing a pool down for good but not yet filling it in with dirt??

My Pentair Intelliflo is 10 years old and starting to squeak a bit. I can't believe how much a new one would now cost. Is anyone familiar with this pump being sold on Amazon? Or any other recommendations for a reasonably priced pump? Thank you!

SWIMLINE HYDROTOOLS 73300 AUTO-FLO 3.0 HP 8800 GPH Inground Variable Speed Self Priming Pool Pump LED Control Panel Multiple Filter Modes 230V 2.0 Inch Ports Large Strainer Basket Silent Operation​

There is an area on the bottom of my fiberglass pool where the coating has come off. I see tan stuff underneath which I presume is the fiberglass. Is this just a cosmetic issue, or is the pool water going to damage the fiberglass?

Need help. I purchase RV antifreeze and have a cyclone blower.

In ground pool
Sand filter.
Auto cover
18k gal
Vinyl liner
Cyclone blower
1- skimmer
1- Main drain
4- return jets

From what I’ve read…
1. For the returns- I don’t need to drain below the jets. Use cyclone to push all water out, and then cap

2. Skimmer- drain below skimmer and blow out. Pour gal of anti free and put gizmo

3. Main drain- blow out, add gal of antifreeze and airlock… how do I airlock.

Here’s we’re I need help. Now sure where in my grouping of pipe to blow from. Could anyone provide guidance?

Hey Folks,

The best deal that I could find on Chlorine in my area (Sacramento) is at Lowes ($14 for 2 gallons of Kem-Tek Liquid Chlorine 10%). I noticed that they have their pool center staged outside in the Garden Center where they have that as well as Muriatic Acid.

Temperatures in Sacramento, especially during the summer, average at around 95 degrees for a few months and can even hit as hot as 110+ on some days. My understanding is that heat + direct sunlight can have a significant and fast deprecation effect on the strength of the Sodium Hypochlorite. Now they do keep it in the shady area and the boxes for Kem-Tek do a pretty good job of sealing off direct sunlight but the heat would certainly get to them. The product seems to move fairly quickly as the manufacturing date stamps on them are usually 1 - 2 months old (Currently the ones I got just now are manufactured August 31).

Is this something I should be overly concerned about? Perhaps it makes sense to pay a little more if I can find a place that stores the liquid indoors?

Can I use my suction side vacuum to drain my pool. I have a cartridge filter and I can connect a hose to the pressure relief valve to a sewage drain in the backyard. Has anyone tried this? Can I do it to replace 20% of water every day for a few days in order to lower my CYA?

When I do a final shocking, do I need to wait for chlorine levels to drop to a certain ppm? If so, what ppm would I aim for? Or can I just shock, add everything else, then close it?
My total chlorine right now is a bit too high and I definitely need to get rid of those chloramines before closing everything up, just don't know how much free chlorine concentration is ok when putting the cover on for the winter.

I've been having ongoing issues with my Aquapure PLC1400. I started getting error code 123 about 3 months ago. The salt cell was a few years old at that point so I purchased another even though the old unit looked in fair shape visually. I did not change the power cable to the salt cell since it looked in fine shape and was only about 2 years old. The problem initially seemed to be resoled but the service light came back on with error code 123. I tested the voltage and it was around 38 volts (going off memory) but after checking I saw the service light was not on anymore. I monitored it for a couple weeks and did another voltage check when the service light was on. Sure enough it was showing about 1 volt. At this point I thought the issue was a failing relay on the power control board. I ordered a replacement. I swapped out the control board and looking at the relay there was signs of failure on one of the switched legs. The new board seemed to work, I decided to switch back to my older cell while I acid washed the newer one. Once again the error code came back. Since throwing money at the problem hadn't worked yet I went ahead and bought a new power cable that I installed when replacing the older salt cell with the cleaned new cell. Once again the error came back. The system is producing chlorine but not as much as it should. All the cells I have had in there get the usual calcium build up over time so currant must be flowing at least part of the time. Right now the only remaining parts are the transformer and the display control board. I've never heard of an intermittent problem with these transformers so I am hesitant to replace this without a more thorough diagnosis. Has anyone else run across an intermittent 123 code like this? I'll test the transformer voltage when I have a chance but I'd appreciate any help possible. Thanks in advance.

I have a Sunlite LTC 05603 2050 POOL LIGHT 24V. Need to replace the whole light. Where can I get this light ?

Our salt pool has developed a problem we've never seen before, INTEX POOL 12 X 24 X 52" deep, I installed a new salt cell this year from INTEX, it's supposed to handle up to a 15000 gallon pool, ours is about 9600, INTEX 22 or 2600 GPH sand filter pump. The titanium plates on the chlorinator side foul with calcium build-up in about 4 days and it causes cell shutdown and low salt indication, water chemistry is salt : about 2900ppm, calcium hardb=ness 300, chlorine runs about 1, PH I try to maintain at 7.6-7.8, our water as it comes from the pipe is around 300 calcium hardness and PH runs a solid 8.1. The solutions I find are to partially drain and refill, but it seems ludicrous to drain & refill with 300 ppm calcium hardness water, or am I missing something? I've never had the cell foul this quickly, usually takes about 3 weeks, any thoughts or solutions are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Jeff

Turning to TFP for help, thanks in advance.

I have a Hayward H250ed2c natural gas heater (2 ish years old).

It was working, but now controls seem to be dead, but can confirm there is power getting to the unit, and some current coming out of the 24vac transformer out line (how much I'm not sure, but NC voltmeter is beeping on that wire so I assume there is power getting to control board..)

Looking at the control pcb board I think these contacts in the red circle might have come loose, as the main wire harness on the other side seems loose.

Any ideas to trouble shoot? My asumption is that even if something else is the problem, the control board should power up in some manner and give me a sign of such if there is power getting to it via the 24vac in contact?

If so, that leads me to believe the potentially interrupted circuit line on the board could be the issue.

Any ideas? Ty

Hello,

A Fiberglass company just drained my pool and put a new gel coat on. I’m refilling it now. When it is filled up, do I need to put more DE in it or should there already be enough in the filter since I haven’t backwashed since they did it?

Also, anything I need to do about existing water in the pipes? I noticed water sitting in the skimmer basket area from when they drained it. Just let that water mix back in with new water or remove it somehow?

We have 4 hoses in the pool now so hopefully it will fill up soon.

Thanks so much!
Chris

My water is crystal clear. My FC is 6.0. MY CC is 0. I did the overnight chlorine test and it didn't move. No signs of visible algae except at the waterline of pool. I scrubbed it off with a brush and a week later it was back. What's going on?

FC 6.0
CC 0
CYA 60
TA 100
PH 7.4
CH 300

Thanks,

Hi all,

I’m new to owing a pool. It’s an inground fibre pool that’s rectangular in shape and where its corners meet at straight angles.

The vacuum head that was included with the pool is basic (see photo). Its rounded shape doesn’t let it get into the corners to collect the dirt there. I thought a robot could help but even it doesn’t seem to be able to get in there. I’ve tried to brush the dirt away using the side of the brush but the brush head doesn’t get in there to let me gently push the dirt out and away from the corner.

What I’ve been doing (which only partially works) is disturb the water so that the dirt disperses back into the water and hope that it settles away from the corner so that the vacuum can get to it.

Thinking there must be a better method to clean the corners? I don’t mind manually vacuuming them. Would a different vacuum head help?

I have a Jandy TCX control system going in this month. I am also changing my old halogen lights to Pentair Color Changing LED's.

Does anyone know if I can control the new LED's with the Jandy TCX? Or will I need the Pentair Light Controller. I am hoping to be ale to cahnge colors via my phone or ipad and not going to the wall switch at the pool equipment.

I currently have the Jandy iQPump01 so havent upgraded yet. I do not have a spa or water features so I do not want to go to the RS system.

Bonus would be if I can control my solar valve with the TCX also as that was the reasoning behind getting it.