I know that draining is often dependent on location, type of pool, and weather. It is a very context specific question and answer.

But I am hoping to receive some kind of foundational advice here. I have drained my ~40 year old plaster pool about halfway to make some repairs to the light, diagnose a leak, and attempt to replace the calcium-caked metal return eyelets.

The water table is about 40-50ft underground. It is a 8ft deep pool, rectangular, sloped to 4ft in the shallow end, with a jacuzzi in a corner.

It is my understanding that plaster was often mixed with asbestos 40 years ago, and is therefore a bit stronger than mixes today. Please correct me if I am wrong here.

On close inspection of the plaster, I can see it was mixed with some kind of aggregate. Looks like granules of marble or another shiny/tumbled stone.

Right now it is October, and temperature highs range in the 80s-90s. Relative humidity is around 50%.

Here are my questions:

• If I drain my pool for 7 days, what risks do I need to accept?
• If I drain my pool for 21 days, what risks do I need to accept?
• What physical attributes of gunite/plaster change when it dries out?

Thank you

Hi Everyone. I have a Raypak heater that is not igniting when calling for heat. I can hear the spark, but no flame afterward. My best guess is the pilot orifice is dirty, or there is air stuck in the propane line. The worst part is the display is wrecked so I can't see if there are any error codes displayed. I'm reaching out for help because I am not very familiar with Raypak heaters. Where should I start, and what things should I be checking? Looking forward to hearing from everyone. TIA

Hey everyone, glad to make your acquaintances. So yeah, as the title states, we just had our very first "real" pool installed, about a month ago, down here in southeast AL. Unfortunately, it didn't quite make it in time for the hottest part of summer, but I am hoping that we might still get a little bit more time out of yet, before it just gets too cool down here, as I have a heater/cooler system installed with it.

So far, I have really enjoyed sort of digging into all of the chemistry aspects of being a pool owner, and sometimes I think I've about got a handle on it, and then other times I feel like I am starting all over again! OK, so I know that trichlor tabs = evil, but that is what I have been exclusively using, thus far. Now I know that I want to keep those CYA levels at bay, so after having been through one full container of those tabs, I want to switch over to the unstabilized chlorine. I feel sort of "intimidated" by making the switch, though, if that makes sense? Well, so far I have read that like liquid chlorine is hard to find in the stores, etc., that I will have to pour in like a gallon every day, etc. I know that I will just have to find a routine that works for me, but I still feel like there is just so much more to know, so that I don't mess it all up!

Another thing that I need to mention is that I have one of these UV/ozone generator deals, which is supposed to eliminate the need for as much chlorine, but so far I cannot tell that it really does...anything? I've heard some people say that yes it works, and some have said that it doesn't, etc. I have had to add about 4 of those tablets about every 3-4 days or so, in order to keep FC levels at like 2-3, but it generally stays pretty consistently at around those levels. I have the Taylor K-1005 (I know, it doesn't have the FAS-DPD test, but my reasoning at the time I bought it was that it said that it was geared more towards the homeowner, whereas the K-2006c was more for commercial pros), and with that kit I have found it difficult to really tell where my CYA levels are. 2 out of 3 times, I have measured at or below 30, according to the test, so I am not sure if some of the other testing kits measure CYA more reliably or what. The pool has always been really clear and sparkly, so far, albeit with some dirt that keeps getting in because I have no yet resided around the pool just yet.

So, basically where I am at is that I am now considering my switch from the trichlor tablets to liquid chlorine but am a bit intimidated by the switch and am wondering if I am going to have to take out a home equity line of credit, and buy liquid chlorine by the forklift load once a week from my local store--Pinch-a-Penny! The guy there made it sound like it was like impossible to switch for some reason. Instead, he wound up selling me some shock, which I have on standby (in granular) form, for whenever I need to shock it. Anyway, I can't remember exactly what all he said but basically "blah blah blah...you'll need to keep on buying the trichlor tablets unless you want to do this, and...blah blah blah..."! lol. Sorry, I was just in the midst of feeling bummed, because I had assumed (hoped?) that it was going to be an easy process to switch, but it seemed like he was telling me that it would not be.

Pleased to meet you all, and I hope to learn a lot from the site!

I'm losing about two inches of water every day in a 20k underground pool. I've hired a leak specialist company and they outlined an area to dig. I've hired a separate company for that work. I'm attaching a picture. They stopped digging since they didn't see any moisture and therefore don't believe the leak is in this area. I'd like them to keep digging until they get to the pipes but they stopped to not break the pool's deck. The top part of the picture is the in-floor cleaning system. The bottom of the pic is a rock waterfall fixture. There are two returns/suction lines on the sidewall, three feet deep, which would be on the left side of the hole in the picture.

Any other recommendations? Should they keep digging at an angle in order to not break the pool's concrete deck?

Noob here and just received a TF-Pro kit and did some initial testing and have some questions.

Quick background: we bought a house with a pool a couple years ago and this is our first one. It was in pretty rough shape (replaced pump and filter but still needs to be resurfaced) and knowing nothing about how to maintain it, we've been having someone do it for us since. About a month ago I got an email saying that another company is taking over our weekly maintenance so the company I hired was no longer going to be maintaining it. I was a bit annoyed by this because the original company was great, but it is what it is, so I went along with it. New guy comes in and seems to be doing fine so all is well. There was one time we had a little bit of algae but it was quickly fixed and it's been nothing but clear. Couple weeks later I get a notification that he's upping his prices so I start reading about how to take care of a pool which is how I found this site and the TF testing kits.

So the kit comes in over the weekend and I do some tests, results below:
FC 18.5
CC 1.5
TC 20
CH 700
TA 90
CYA 60
pH 7.2

First thing that jumps out at me is the FC. Either I did the test completely wrong or it's insanely high. My notes for both tests over the weekend were around the same area (19.5 on one, 18.5 on the other) so maybe I'm not following the instructions correctly. Second the CH seems incredibly high along with TA and CYA both being on the high side as well. After seeing my tests, I look back at emails where the readings are noted and what chemicals were added. The one from last week said FC was 10ppm and he added 5 chlorine tabs to the floater. After reading the ABC's of Water Chemistry here last week, I'm thinking this is completely off from what he should be doing but I haven't said anything yet. I'm trying not to be the guy that reads something on the internet then questions everything the guy is doing.

This morning I took a sample to get tested to see how it compared to my tests and results are below:
TC 8
FC 8
CC 0
pH 7
Base Demand 3 drops (no clue what this is honestly)
TA 90
CH 625
Stabilizer 140 (this is CYA, correct?)
Total Dissolved Solids 1300 (no clue what this is either)

Seeing the above tests, I assume that I did screw up my FC tests pretty badly however, the FC is still pretty high and the CH and CYA are both quite high as well. I'm assuming the FC and CYA are both high due to trying to get them back to a happy medium or did CYA get too high so you have to counteract by adding more chlorine and then they'll even out? Then there is the CH which the Pool Math app basically said to drain 1/3 of the water.

At this point, I'm a bit confused on what to do. I had assumed the levels would all be normal so it would be an easier transition, but just throwing the FC and CH numbers into the Pool Math app says I need 204oz of bleach added and 1/3 the pool drained. Any recommendations on how to move forward? Do we really need to drain that much and add that much to get it back on track? Could the condition of the surface of the pool add to the problems? Is our pool guy just throwing chlorine at it to make sure no algae grows?

Hello,

I have an in-ground jacuzzi attached to my 1980's era pool, but with no heater. Jacuzzi is always the same temp as the pool.

I would like to know if there is a cheap (under $300) way I can put some kind of an external pump, Inlet and Outlet hoses hanging in the water, to heat this thing up - similar to a saluspa inflatable heat pump? I'm not trying to make a nice jacuzzi for guests, I just want to sit in hot water on my own.

I prefer electric regardless of how inefficient, as I overproduce solar elec while my gas prices have quadrupled. I would love a 120 volt plugin device. Not really trying to do 240 wiring but I guess my question is, is there any kind of 120 volt solution that could heat this tub up to hot temps? Plugged into a GFI outlet a few feet away?



thank you!!!!

Thread now 16 years old and still proving its worth! I too found some, still sealed jug so clearly brand new (if many years old). Used the same test: Cautious open and small pour on discrete concrete - definite reaction
Friend's pool's pH (found to have drifted high) now being corrected, ready for a little baking soda stabilization.

Hi Guys,
So I have a kidney shaped pool about 18,000 gallons. Plaster. Unheated. It's my favorite place on earth from April-Nov. After Nov It's way too cold. (Austin, Texas...the new frozen tundra!) Anyway, I'm getting a new electric Hayward 100 BKU heater-cooler installed next week. Son says I NEED a cover, too. I'm older and it will be mostly me using just half the pool for aqua aerobics. So, what type of cover to keep heat in? And probably need a roller. Can I just roll half of it up? Thanks for any input!

Just wanted to say thank you to the TFP community! Followed the site numerous years, learning a wealth of information. Never felt a need to post, when all my questions were already answered in Pool School or searching the forums. Once again, thank you for a great resource and letting me have a trouble free pool!

We had a new inground gunite pool installed this year. Our property has a slope to it, so part of the pool at the deep end is above ground by about 2 feet with the rest of the deep end below ground--. It was completed in April. In August we noticed cracked travertine tiles, cracks in the coping, the deck dropping/sloping (or the pool has risen) and a hair line crack in the pool wall leading down the same side of the pool as the cracking.
Our pool contractor sent out their project manager who believes the deep end of the pool is rising and that it has risen about an inch.
The contractor wants to take a "wait and see" approach to see how everything settles before addressing or repairing. We now have moisture on the outside wall of the pool in the area of the cracks. I would assume this means we have water leakage somewhere (probably from the crack in the pool?)
Are we OK to take a wait and see or do I need a second opinion?

Hello, I am shopping around for automatic pool cover motor and found out that a HD motor is less expensive than a STD motor. Could anyone kindly provide more explanation? Thanks a lot

Hah! Well, this is my very first post in this forum. I had a 10.5K gal pool completed in my backyard 4 months ago. It's glorious, perfect timing for the insane summer we had/have here in Austin.

I had the Clear Comfort system installed, by recommendation from my builder. That's how I found this thread...I mentioned Clear Comfort to the folks down at Leslie's the other day and they basically told me that I got sold snake oil.

I was sold the Clear Comfort system under the pretense that it would both lower my pool maintenance burden and allow me to maintain more comfortable, less-chemically water quality. My wife and kid both have sensitive skin, so the idea of less chlorine was appealing. I'm far from an expert in pool maintenance (never had a pool before now) but my initial thoughts on Clear Comfort are, so far so good.

I've had no problems this summer, my water quality has remained super clean, and my chlorine level hasn't been over 1ppm for almost the entire time. Maintenance-wise, I do weekly test strips, and about every other week a trip to Leslie's to get the water tested. I recently switched from chlorine tabs to hypochlorite shock to keep my CYA level in check. Toss a little shock in every week, a little acid from time to time, and occasionally some sodium bicarbonate. When I leave town, I put a bunch of tabs in the chlorinator and they seem to do the job for a week or more.

Anywho, that's my experience thus far, take it with a grain of salt. I haven't turned off the Clear Comfort system so heck, maybe it's making zero difference whatsoever. But just based on research and also from talking to other folks with pools, it seems like my setup is pretty darn low-maintenance.

AquaLogic board. Don't know where to get s/n.

Salt cell is knock off, 2 years old (Circupool W3T-CELL-15). CircuPool® CIR-GEN15 Aftermarket Replacement Cell compatible with Hayward® AquaRite®

Getting "Check System Very Low Salt" error.
Reads 2300 today but was readying "very low salt" over the weekend.
Confirmed w/ Taylor test salt level is at 3000
When starting diags, the reading starts at 4800 and drops really fast down
K1 solder fix a few years ago

Bought a house a year ago here in southwest Florida and I'm a first-time pool owner. Like most people, I just take my water to the local pool store for my water analysis. After stumbling on this site about 3 months ago I realize I needed a better water test kit. While I was waiting for the test kit to arrive (TF Pro Salt), my SWG was showing the dreaded blinking green light (clean the salt cell). Looks like it's dead. After doing my own testing, here are my numbers:
Gunite pool, 13,500 gallons, Intellichlor IC40- Pentair easytouch control system with variable speed pump running 12hrs at 37 gpm. Air temp 87, pool temp 83. I normally brush and vacuum the pool weekly. Pool water looks good and clear.
Any guidance would be appreciated.
Salt: 3200
PH: 7.8
FC: 14
CC: 1
TC :15
CH: 225
TA: 70
CYA: 68
There's a lot of new construction going on around me, so my pool store said I have phosphates (500 PPB). I added some liquid chlorine until the new SWG arrives to keep the water from developing algae. I did notice after brushing the pool that it looks like there's some green algae on the bottom, no stains. Should I do the FAS DPD test in order to see how much chloring is being consumed? And then make a decision to slam? Will slamming the pool take care of the phosphates?
Thanks
Jack

Long time lurker first time poster... 2 year old IG plaster pool and thanks to this site I've had good success with liquid chlorine. I'm finally tired of adding the LC and was debating adding a Stenner pump but believe I have decided to go the SWG route. My pool was built with a Hayward Omni-Logic controller. My understanding is almost any SWG is compatible? I see some old posts but I'd like current recommendations on the best setup. Complicating factor is my pool is ~37,000 gallons. Do you all recommend 2X 40,000 gallon cells? What would y'all do in my situation? North Texas DFW area.

Follow-ups:
1. Has anyone had issues with backwashing a saltwater pool onto Bermuda grass lawn? I have the DE filter so backwash every couple of months.
2. For anyone still running liquid chlorine- passing along some of the best advice I ever received here was to check your local pressure washing store for bleach. This is the best I've found in the DFW Metroplex...
Delux Bleach Per Gallon | PowerWash.com
($4.50/Gallon for 12.5%)

Apologies if this has already been asked and answered. I searched and could not find. I have a Dolphin S300 pool robot. About 4 or 5 months ago I had a local pool supply company repair it under warranty. The 2 year warranty has since expired. They replaced the power supply/control unit and the control cable or whatever its called - the 50 foot blue cable. I just recently came to the realization that when they replaced my blue cable, they replaced it with the non swivel type. It originally had a swivel cable. When I got it back the last time I had been noticing that the cable was often tangled up. And by often I mean after every cycle. Then I read somewhere, probably here, that sometimes the swivels can get stuck and periodically need a little maintenance. That is when I realized I no longer had a swivel cable. WTH???? I know I had it before so it didn't take much brain power to figure out what happened. "Flipper" has never been anywhere since it arrived new at our house EXCEPT the repair shop. I am not going back to the company to demand a new cable as too much time has passed and they are not very nice people as it is. (we had a falling out over them wanting to charge me a 60 dollar shop fee for doing warranty repairs) Sorry to take so long to arrive at my question but I thought context was important, perhaps not. What I am wondering is if my non swivel cable can be made into a swivel cable? I see that you can purchase the swivel end but I don't know if its that simple or if the rest of the cable is different also. I know some will say it doesn't really help but I can assure you in my particular case it most certainly made a difference. Any help will be appreciated.

My first time with with heavy storms after converting to salt water generator. Before storm my salt readings were 3400 during the storm as we speak. My salt readings are 2700. I’m sure it is due to the rain at top of the pool pulling from skimmers. Is it best to close the skimmers and use the four main drain, so I can get an accurate salt reading? I’m concerned with the low salt readings as we speak. It could damage the salt water generator.

Hello everyone - I have been reading through numerous TFP forfums for the last several weeks in anticipation of starting my own "pool journey." I welcome any and all thoughts and feedback on the information below (as well as responses to my questions). This will be my very first pool and, while I feel like I am at at least novice-level knowledge now after spending so much time on this site, I know I still have a lot to learn.

We have selected a PB and are currently waiting for the city permit to be issued. Once that is complete, we have been told that the dig can be scheduled within one to two weeks and then we would be off and running. Assuming this post gets some traction, I would love to keep providing updates/pictures/etc. as the process goes along.

GENERAL INFORMATION
Location: Dallas, Texas (Dallas proper)
Pool size: 35’ 6’’ x 14’ 6’’ (perimeter 100’)
Area: 515 sq. ft.
Gallons: ~18,500
Pool Profile: 3.5” x 6” x 6”
No spa
Pool finish (not finalized): “Smooth exposed Pebble Interior finish using a Base Color”

PLUMBING

• 2.5” or 3” suction lines based on pump size and distance requirements
• FIVE 1.5” directional water returns fed by a 2” header line.
• TWO pool skimmers with hydrodynamic weirs using a 2” suction line valved independently with a Jandy Neverlube valve
• Install 32” AquaStar Schedule 80 Virginia Graeme Baker Safety Act channel main drain

EQUIPMENT

• Jandy 580 Cartridge Filter
• 2.7 HP Jandy Variable Speed ePump VSSHP270AUT/JEP2.0 w/ extra-large basket (SEE QUESTION BELOW)
• Aquacal SQ166R Electric Heat Pump/Water Chiller
• A & A Automatic In-Floor Cleaning System with five-port water valve
• Jandy AquaPure salt-water chlorine system
• AquaStar ChemStar In-line Chlorinator Model # CH100
• Computer Controller - Jandy IQ904P for pool only
• Jandy Infinite Watercolor Nicheless 15W lights (THREE)
• Infinite Watercolor 300W transformer
• Concealed over-flow line to drain excess water
• Pool fill-line attached to skimmer and connected to hose bib with backflow prevention
• Jandy Infinite Watercolor Bubblers (THREE)
• 1 HP Jandy FloPro FHPM1.0 Pump (Booster Pump)

QUESTIONS

• After doing some of my own research, it seems like VSSHP270AUT Jandy ePump may be the prior generation of ePump, replaced by the VSSHP270DV2A (which is what is currently listed on Jandy’s website). My PB assures me that I will be getting only the “latest and greatest,” and I wanted to see if anyone had any knowledge about this.
• Our pool will have a LOT of leaves fall into it. Are there any changes to the build that I should make to account for this? Note that we do not want to do an auto cover, and I plan on manually covering it during the fall when most leaves come down, but we have several giant trees around the pool that inevitably shed leaves throughout the spring and summer months as well.
• Other than the added cost, is there any reason not to include an in-line chlorinator (given that we will have an SWG)? I’ve seen a lot of comments saying it is ultimately useless and unnecessary, but just curious as to whether it could independently cause issues.

I am most likely going to install Pentair equipment to upgrade my equipment. A pool contractor is suggesting that I go with an EasyTouch system instead of IntelliCenter because my needs are relatively simple.

I have read many threads on here about these systems and realize the EasyTouch is an older system and likely to be phased out. Additionally the IntelliCenter seems to have a better interface. It seems to me that a huge difference between them is that with IntelliCenter you connect through Pentair servers while with EasyTouch w/ScreenLogic you are connecting directly. Older threads from the early days of IntelliCenter had many complaints of the Pentair servers going down but it seems that is less frequent now.

Is this an issue that would influence the choice of one over the other? Does one provide more information than the other?

One turbine was hardly moving, other is moving fine and picking up debris as usual and all other moving parts are moving fine. It is the drive shaft which has white trapezoidal gears which drive the turbines.

I’m attempting to blow out my pool lines myself. I have my water level just below skimmer but all the return jets are still under water.

Question about blowing out the returns. I have 6 total returns in the pool and 3 valves controlling them
- one for the 2 returns in the steps
- one for the 2 returns in the deep end bench seat
- one for the 2 returns in the pool

The last time I watched the pool guy do it he plugged 3 of the returns, one in each return type (step/bench/pool) before blowing anything g out. Then when he went to blow them out he only had to plug the remaining one for each return type.

Should I follow the same approach, or just leave all returns unplugged and blow them all out and then plug all 6 of them?

My pool was plastered with Luna Quartz Pacific at the beginning of June. This is what my pool looked like. The PB came out and said this will clear up and I will love it. IF not they would do a Hot Start at the end of August to clear it up. No worries!
They just finished the Hot Start with little success. A Hot Start was dumping muriatic Acid in pool with a pump in pool circulating. They came out every day to brush. They then drained the Spa into the pool and did a acid bath on the spa. No change.


Here is the spa after the acid wash. The place that is circled is where he polished to see if that works. Looks Like polishing would bring out the right color and give me a smooth surface.
So at this point the PB is going to discuss our options. Looks like it is either polishing entire pool or a redo. This was a reno and I do not want another coat on top of this coat. I would have to insist on a chip out.
Should I go with the polish?

This leak just started. I can’t by hand unscrew the cap. Is this likely something I can fix?

This is our first full fall and winter after pool startup last winter. We don’t plan on officially closing our pool as we live in South Louisiana. I’m sure my kids will swim for a little while longer and we do plan on using the hot tub until it is just too cold outside. Question is, should my FC target change with dropping temps and less use? I know my SWG will need supplementing once water temps < 55ish, I plan on using liquid bleach or a small amount of trichlor tabs just to keep my FC at goal. My question is same as above, what should be my goal?

Any information is appreciated

The mount at the base of my Hayward Powerflo Matrix pool pump has a severe rust problem from leaky connections over the last couple of years. The pump is less than 4 years old, so I don't want to replace it. I have seen some "mounting feet" which screw into the base and the pump rests on it. However, they do not list my model SP15932STL, so I'm not sure it would work for mine or perhaps my model is too old to be listed. Has anyone purchased one of these for the above model? If so, did you have any issues?

I have a Caldera Makena Salt Spa being delivered for a home that I won't be at very much for the next year. It will be outdoors and covered. We might visit and use the spa every other month or so for a few days at a time. Once we are living there full time I plan to take care of it myself but until then I was thinking of hiring a company to perform maintenance.

I'm a spa newb and don't want to get talked into "over-servicing" it for the minimal use it will get but I also don't want to be too cheap about it.

What can I get away with as far as maintenance visits go if we are only using it a couple times a month? Can I get away with having them service it monthly and maybe I throw some shock in it before I leave each time or is monthly not enough?

For what it's worth it will have the Caldera "Spa Connect Kit" monitoring system connected to wifi so I can at least see current temperature, salt levels and run basic tests remotely.

So we are building a house and also having pool built along side of house. We are not moved in yet and pool people are still working on hardscape, so pool builder is having their person get water balanced and maintained at the moment.

I, however, have been reading as much info about pool upkeep and maintenance as possible anticipating the time when I will take over. They just got the salt in the pool and the SWG running. The pump has been running on a higher RPM so I wanted to see how low I could take the pump and still get adequate flow for SWG. I was expecting somewhere around 1300-1500 RPM’s as this is what I seem to see most say they run their variable speed pump at. I was not able to go below 1900 RPM’s. I would get a red light on the flow sensor any lower. So I’m thinking I’d at least have to run at or just over 2,000 RPM’s to make sure SWG is always getting good water flow.

Is this normal? I also read that having a heater would require higher RPM’s to get good flow. If this is true, is it also still true if heater to not on?

And something else, can a SWG cause tiny bubbles to come out of return lines? I had tiny bubbles coming from all three return lines today. This is the first day the SWG had been fully functional and I have definitely not noticed any bubbles prior to today. Pool guy had SWG in super chlorine mode.

I winterized the pool and put the 2" teflon plug at the bottom and dumped some antifreeze but to my surprise it's all gone with hours. I did it again and watched for ten minutes and no bubbles.. The plug is tight and I might get a rubber plug to see if that works better but I do not understand what this copper valve looking key is at the bottom. What is it? Any trouble shooting ideas while it's dry?

Hello!

I have a hayward heater that is showing CE when booting, then switches to SF quickly. I have read that it could be the temp sensor, but my temp sensor is plugged into my Prologic 4 system and is reading the correct temperature. It is my H250 that is showing the error. I was going to replace my temp sensor, but I don't know if that is a waste of time based on the CE error. Any advice would help!

Also, I tried to move my heater from "bo" mode back to manual to test if its the connection to the prologic, but the SF error won't let me do anything on the board.

Thanks!

BK

The cost of a Cyclone blower has kept me from buying one, but I saw one on Facebook marketplace for $115 and had to have it. There were some hoops: I was forced to join Facebook, which I had steadfastly refused do for all these years. Then, the buyer was a few states away and wouldn’t ship. But I knew it was meant to be when I found out they lived 15 minutes away from my brother. He bought it for me and shipped it for $20. After a trip to Lowe’s for an $8 connection piece, the satisfaction of creating a geyser in the main drain made it all worth it.