Atlanta Area New Build

Hi all,

I've been reading up and trying to get smart before taking the plunge... I'll be new to owning and maintaining a pool but the time is right for our family. I want to share the enjoyment of a pool with my boys that my grandparents gave to me, my brothers, and cousins as children.

I want to catalog the planning and build here in this thread, maybe ask some questions, learn from others' experiences and keep a record of the process. We interviewed numerous builders in the area and ended up asking for quotes from the three with whom we were most comfortable. After getting initial proposals, we decided to only move forward with further planning with two of the builders. Both are well-established, long-time builders and both have great reputations. We have neighbors who have used one or the other so we have seen first hand the end product.

We're really leaning towards one over the other currently. The quotes aren't terribly far off in price though the more expensive builder isn't too hot on SWCG pools, though will be happy to install one and previously did hundreds of them before moving to UV/Chlorine (yes, I've read up on UV here and understand the consensus in the forums...). The builder states that they've seen too many problems from salt issues on the equipment pad, with wiring corrosion, and surface wear. I'm fairly confident that we want a salt pool and believe the issues may have more to do with lack of care than the salt content of the pool.

The second quote is slightly less expensive and checks all of the boxes that my wife and I were after. This seems like the way to go so I'm going to list some of the proposal details here.

I've already asked for some clarification and details on a number of items below, looking for equipment specificity and I have asked about Automation. No details were provided other than about charging an additional $2700 to "add automation."

Thanks for all of the great info here, I look forward to learning and participating with everyone.

PatrickScreen Shot 2021-04-15 at 5.25.21 PM.png

WarrantyPool Shell-Duration of ownership for water retention
Underground Plumbing- 5 Years
Tile- 2 Years
Pool Parts- 3 Years
Interior Finish- (Listed Below)
Construction- 2 Years
1
Pool- Dimensions & Shape14' X 36' Custom Design1
Pool- Square FootageInstall a custom concrete pool shell. The swimming pool shell will be designed and installed using pneumatically applied concrete reinforced with a rebar cage tied 12" on center with a three row steel reinforced 12" bond beam.504
Pool- Linear FootagePool- Linear Footage100
Pool- Depth3' - 5'1
Pool Coping Type - TravertineChoice of 12" X 24" Ivory or Noce travertine coping100
Pool- Waterline TileChoice of standard frostproof waterline tile100
Tanning LedgeIncluded per plan
Pool- Umbrella SleevePool- Umbrella Sleeve inside Tanning Ledge1
Water FeaturesBubbler Water Features on Tanning Ledger2
Pool- Number of BenchesPool- Number of Benches1
Pool- Sets of StepsPool- Sets of Steps1
Permitting- Standard Permitting- Expediting and Site Plans*We will perform standard permitting for the project. Permitting will begin when the start date timeframe is determined, a contract is signed, deposit received, and survey/plat received. The owner will provide us with any required property plats, surveys, septic layouts (if applicable), topographies (if applicable), engineering reports (if applicable), anything required by the owner's jurisdiction.
*All inspections will be called in and checked by our office staff. If there is a permit box, we may ask for assistance in getting inspections results.
1
Permitting- Standard Permitting- Jurisdiction FeesIncluded1
Permitting- Jurisdiction RequirementsProvide the Owner with Window and Door Alarms as required by the permitting jurisdiction. The alarms will be installed by the owner as directed by the contractor. Two sided tape is provided for simple and quick installation1
Construction - Silt Fence*Silt Fence is included
*Silt Fence removal is not included. Must be done by your landscape contractor immediately preceding the installation of ground cover.
1
Excavation & Standard Site Preparation*In order to build your new swimming pool, we will need access to the swimming pool construction area for large equipment and various areas to stage equipment/materials while building the pool. We do not include repairs to the access or staging areas as damages (if any) are unknown until the work is complete. The construction access will be finalized on the morning of excavation.
*Before excavation is performed, we will call 811 to have the utilities marked. If there are any utilities in your yard, please notify our office prior to excavation.
*If you have a fence or a gate that will not allow our equipment into the yard, we will remove the section of fence required for the equipment. We suggest having a fencing contractor re-install the fence, but will attempt to reinstall the fence at no charge with no guarantees. The owner assumes all risk and liability for the access unless specifically called out in the scope of work mentioned below.
*The project completion time will be 60-70 working days** The start date is the morning of excavation and the completion date is when the pool is filling with water. **Working days are Monday through Friday. Weekend days, rain days, and holidays are excluded.
1
Pool- SkimmersPressure Tested Schedule 40 PVC Pipe2
Pool - Main DrainsPressure Tested Schedule 40 PVC Pipe2
Pool- ReturnsPressure Tested Schedule 40 PVC Pipe3
Interior Finish- Pebble Tec / Sheen Warranty 15 Years
Desert Gold Pebble Sheen
1
Grading-Rough Grade- Will not be landscape ready. Will need a final grade done by a landscape professional.1
Pool Equipment-Pentair Intellibrite 5G White LED Pool Light1
Pool Equipment-Three-way Jandy Valves4
Pool Equipment-Pentair Intellichlor IC-40 Salt System1
Pool Equipment-Pentair Intelliflo Variable Speed 3 HP Pump1
Pool Equipment-Pentair/Sta-Rite Modular Media 500 Cartridge Filter1
Pool EquipmentEquipment Pads2
Electrical-Electrically bond the pool and wire in all included pool equipment and accessories.1
Electrical-Bonding Grid1
Electrical-Sub Panel/Meter Tap1
Electrical-Freeze Protector Circuit1
Water Feature-Deck Jets (4)1


Pump size/SWG capacity - Time to decide soon

My contract was for a single speed 1hp/1.85hp rated Hayward pump. I want a variable speed pump and want to know how they are sized. I could contact Hayward but thought I'd post here. The builder says the SWG if for 10k gallons. I don't know how many gallons my pool will be but if the recommendation is to double the size of the pool, it seems to be too small.

Any ideas of a good pump size? I plan on using a tristar vsp.

Recommendation for SWG capacity?

Thanks

Bullfrog Spas and Alexa

I had started talking about adding an Echo dot to my Bullfrog spa in an other thread. I figured I would start a new one, because this is becoming a bit of a project.

I bought a Echo Dot to see if I could hook it up to my Bullfrog A6. I also bought a can of conformal coating. My plan was to keep the Dot on a table I have about 6' from the spa (that has a plug near it), I would pair it with the hot tub Bluetooth, and then be able to sit in the tub and yell at the Echo so I could change music, etc. I already use Amazon Music for the rest of my streaming around the house. I was going to disassemble the Dot, conformal coat it, and then let it live outside.

First issue: The Dot had a heck of a time finding the hot tub Bluetooth

Second issue : It found it, and now it fails pairing

Doing some research, the Dot will only pair with speakers requiring a PIN code if the PIN code is 0000 - Bullfrog uses 5555. More Google, more reddit, no way to change the PIN on the bullfrog or to change the acceptable PIN on the Dot.

While messing around with the menus on the Bullfrog, I find there IS a Aux input you can select, but Darn if I can find an Aux input on the exterior of the tub, or in the device cubby where the USB port is.

More Googling, find a person who hooked their Sonos system up to their Bullfrog. They use the Aux input setting, and plugged directly into the 3.5 mm aux jack that is located on the Gecko in.stream pack. They specifically mention that you need a right angle plug to get the cable to fit into the in.stream

Out to the garage, pull down the massive tote of all things audio cable - no joy (plenty of 3.5 mm, no right angle)

Hit up Amazon, and have a 10 foot cable on order to arrive tomorrow.

More to come.

Looking for *objective* advice on closing salt water pool

I was looking for a recommended blog or something that gives advice on closing my pool for winter, but all I could find are influencers who wanted me to buy stuff. I also thought there might be a pinned thread in this forum, but there doesn't seem to be.
My pool has the following traits I think might be relevant:
  • Salt water
  • In-ground
  • Gas heater
  • Solar heater
  • Solar blanket and spool
  • Cartridge filter
I already have experience with a chlorine, above ground, unheated, sand-filtered pool, so maybe just telling me the difference would be good enough.

Skimmer Use Gizmo or not?

Hi Everyone,

Last year I bought a gizmo and used it without disconnecting the hose and it worked great. This year I hired a new company and they told me not to use the gizmo and just leave the quick disconnect, disconnected and let the water come out of the skimmer box. We live in Canada so I drained down 6" below the return and plugged the return.

What should I do as leaving the hose disconnected and the gizmo installed is pointless.

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It Finally Happened, Breaker Tripped

So after reading so many threads on spa breakers tripping it didn’t come as a huge shock when my wife informed me the hot tub was off and to turn it on so she could use it. Obviously I hadn’t turned it off, so I immediately headed downstairs where I saw the breaker had tripped. Tried a reset and as expected it immediately tripped. Since the tub is a 2008 I suspect like a lot of these I’ve read it’s likely the heater has reached the end of its life.

I’ll poke around at it some more when I have a chance, doing the typical troubleshooting items by disconnecting one thing at a time until I can re-engage the breaker without it tripping immediately. I’ll start with the heater.

This may also be a good time for me to finally track down and fix that leak it’s had since we got this with our house in the spring of last year…
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Two weeks with a solar cover

So I've had an old solar cover that I dragged up from my basement going now for two weeks. So far so good. I have a technique to get it on and off without too much fuss. The water temp has remained around 80 which is great and today was a wonderful October pool day. Overnight temps have been in the 60's with some 50's the week before. I do have some questions:

- How do you determine when your solar cover is shot? I can see many of the bubbles turn opaque when the cover is on from water intrusion, probably 1/3 of them. So that's probably not good.
- I'm getting a fair amount of plastic shedding off into the water, enough to be annoying. Is that normal, or is it shot?
- Once a cover is shot, does it make sense to hang on to it to cover the pool during the winter? Keep the pump running and pool "open", just with a solar cover to keep most debris out and reduce chlorine demand.
- Can you walk on these when they are on the pool deck? I've done that once or twice with flip-flops and didn't really hear any popping. The Dang thing blocks access to the patio area when it is off the pool.

Next week looks to be a rainy washout with temps in the 70's. I hope to keep this season going somehow!

Pool equipment advice (was: Yet another SVRS post)

I'm sure you folks get a ton of these SVRS posts, judging by the number of search results I got on the forum. But I just want to make sure I'm making the right arguments to my pool builder. This is the pump they quoted me for:

E-Pump Jandy 2hp Var.Spd.SVRS
2 hp Jandy Stealth Pump

Pool is around 19,500 gallons. When I told my PB I don't want SVRS he sent me this:
Why don't you wanna pump with an SVRS? The SVRS is a vacuum release valve that way nothing can get stuck on top of the main drains. A lot of municipalities require them to pass inspection since it is for safety
Am I right to avoid it? Or is it a brand-specific thing?

Risk of cover leak when using automatic sump pump?

The last 2 years I've rested my automatic sump pump on top of my solid pool cover (just a big tarp). Its been so nice not having to worry about water on my cover. However, I was thinking to myself, what if my pool cover developed a leak? The sump would just run continuously until it basically drained the pool! With all that exposure to the elements, my pool cover will eventually spring a leak. Of course I always look for a leak when I first place it on. Any ideas on how to prevent this? Thanks!!

What's your biggest pool "uh oh?"

So, our sunshelf umbrella sleeve is positioned so that we get good shade in the summer. Not so much on this side of our annual voyage around the sun. So I filled a 5 gallon bucket with some sand from the sandbox to make a movable umbrella stand. Worked great! Until I forgot to crank down the umbrella last night and the wind blew the whole thing over and I spent the first half hour of my Sunday morning shovelling wet sand out of the sunshelf.
Has anyone else had a bright idea that, in the clear 20/20 vision of hindsight, wasn't so bright?

Autocover lid - can I see pics of yours please

Hi there.
We have an auto cover and are trying to figure out the masonry aspect of covering the box and the motor mechanism.
What did you use ? How was it installed ? If you had brackets to support stone, how far apart were the brackets ?
How easy is it to remove pieces to get to the motor for any future maintenance ?
We are also planning on having a paver patio and are trying to have everything look like it goes together.

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1st Pool Build | Sugar Land - Continued Skimmer Repair Updates

Hi everyone. I have been lurking on here for a long time and reading and trying to absorb as much as I can. I have narrowed down my search to 3 builders that all proposed fairly similar designs in terms of shape and I wanted to share them with you here to see what you guys thought, what you would change or move around to make this a better build. The wife and I are more modern so wanted something geometric that fit our house.

EDIT: Changed up Thread to reflect an actual bid with equipment.

UPDATE - We got out first full bid from 1 of the 2 guys we are considering. Here is the build out and design.

UPDATE 2/9/21 - One of the last builders we had out has come up with a design we like the best. I have attached it below. We are meeting them tomorrow to discuss pricing etc and see what their bid is. I plan on sending the design to the other builders we met with and seeing what their bid would be for the same type of design. We did our own tweaks like adding contrasting colors on part of it.

UPDATE 2/11/21 - We had a face to face meeting with the PB and Designer where we got to work real time with him on changes and ideas. Towards the end the wife asked if she could see the pool symmetrical becuase she just loves simple lines. He quickly whipped up a draft and she fell in love with it more, so now we are on version number 3 of the design. I also have a list of items being used. I know I know, SWG. I'm gonna have to try and figure that out.

Some key things


  1. The pool is now essentially 12' X 35 Feet (Interior Measurements)
  2. Tanning ledge is shortened since there is no spa behind it now to 6' wide and the spa remains 4.5' wide so that gives us essentially 24.5 feet of swimming area in the middle.
  3. Currently we have the depth going from 3.5 - 5.5. I'm wondering from the experts here to leave it like that, or go something like 3.5-5.5-3.5 so it's easier for both sides to hang out?
  4. The wife got what she ultimately wanted a simple rectangular pool, water feature aligned directly with the patio as well as the glass doors and windows in our house that open out and can show everything.
  5. Since we have to use 400 SQFT of Decking with spray deck he put in a little seating area up top as well near the spa. Not 100% on that one but I think it's a nice addition to just a little green area back there.
  6. Currently the 3 walls on the back are 18", 12", and 6" I am thinking about raising each of them 6" to give it a little more effect. So making the feature wall with sheer descents to 24"
Here is the equipment list currently in their bid.

Equipment - ALL PENTAIR


Pentair Easy Touch 8 w/Logic - $2,410 (Asked him about Intellicenter and he said that would be about $300 more than this, if anyone can chime in on normal pricing)
Valve Actuators to have water feature work separately - $230
Pentair Cartridge Filter (420) - Included
Cleaner Pump (3/4 HP) #LA-01N - Included
PENTAIR Racer Cleaner - Included
Intelliflo VSF #011056 - $652
Whisperflo 3/4 Booster for sheer descents - 1,105
3X 18" Sheer - $1105
2X Bubblers - $300
In-Line Chlorinator - Included
Auto Fill System - $322
Pentair Racer Cleaner - Included
MicroBrite Color LED Lights - 3 Total (2 in pool, & 1 in spa) - $1649
Pentair Heating System - Included in the Spa Pricing


UPDATE 2/27/21

CONTRACT SIGNED!


So after some back and forth about pricing and adjusting a few minor things we have finally signed the contract to build our pool. Thank you for everyone for all the help. Below is the latest design after a few minor changes. We still will be making some minor adjustments because we won't start our dig until later in April due to scheduling for GUNITE etc. Below is the pretty much final design of of the pool and some items that we are still ironing out. We dropped the side walls to 6" and the feature wall stayed 1" to give it a uniformed look while the Spa stays at 12" raised.

1. Still haven't decided if we want to keep that seating area and deck near the spa or just leave it clean and some extra grass area for the kids and move the decking allocation to the side of the house to use for storage and deck boxes
2. I spoke to to them about leaving either extra pipe for a later install of SWG and possibly having them plumb everything for a SWG pool and I will pay for the Intellicenter 8 with SWG kit and leave everything chlorine for now to not worry about their waiver for their warranty and then just installed the SWG set after the one year. This way I don't have to get the SWG and power supply later.
3. We don't know what we are going to do with the color of the plaster yet, he just put in a placeholder for the included level, or if we want to actually pay extra for a higher level of color which will be $800.


Ghorbani 2-23_001.jpgGhorbani 2-23_003.jpgGhorbani 2-23_002.jpg

Pool "Professionally" Closed. Why do i feel uneasy....

Hey everyone,

Sadly my pool was closed yesterday :(. The pool company i purchased my pool from provides a complimentary closing for the first year. There were a couple of things they didn't do:
  1. Add antifreeze to return and skimmer line
  2. Remove the pool lights as per manufacturers winterization procedure
  3. left a quarter inch of water at the bottom of the pump under basket
I've reached out to the service department about the lights and am waiting to hear back. They don't add antifreeze since their industrials blower removes the water from the pipes, still for some reason I feel uneasy about this. The last thing i want is for any remaining water to damage my pipes over the frigid winters.

Which leads me to my questions for the experts :)
  1. Should I add some antifreeze to the return and skimmer lines, for my piece of mind / added insurance?
  2. Is it possible to add antifreeze now that they have effectively closed the pool?
  3. They put a Gizzmo in the skimmer however should I pour antifreeze around it?
For reference my pump and pool equipment is about 5 feet above pool level and 10 ft from pool skimmer.

Thanks in advance.

Water Lowered for Winter but Still at Return line Height

Hi, we have an above ground 24' pool with 1 return line, skimmer and bottom drain. We are in farming area with a ton of trees overhanging the pool, pool is in a wind tunnel, in Canada. First winter with the pool.

I hired a local company to close the pool while I was at work. They are quite knowledgeable and have helped me out before(not a pool store). My water was clean and clear to start. They lowered the water below the return line, disconnected everything and put anti-freeze in the drain. We put a leaf net over top for the leaf drop and plan on removing before snow and freezing. We do not intend on putting an actual winter cover over due to the sheer amount of winter winds we get. (Our snow banks moved 20 feet down the driveway last winter)
Previous home owners 'closed' the pool when it was green, no leaf or winter cover. It was a PIA to learn how to clean and open it.

The company lowered the water to just below the return line hole. But last week we had quite a bit of rain and it has come up to the bottom of the open hole. Any more rain and it will slowly escape out the side. I'm not sure if maybe the company thought I would be putting a winter cover over top or if this is normal.
Is this normal?
Should I through a submersible pump in there now and lower the water further?
I could attach one of the plastic gutter extenders to the otherside of the pipe and move any overflow water away from the pool.

Thanks!

Steps to Closing Pool/Help Me Verify

There's a statement from one of our members that I find very useful (Catanzaro).

As you can see from the image attached, this is my pool equipment set up.
Pool Equipment.jpg
I will be closing my pool for the first time this year. I have to. No choice. Here are the steps I've created to close my pool. I know...I know... it's a lot to read, but I'm just trying to make sure I hit all the spots here. My pool equipment is very unique and I can't seem to find anyone else that has similar set ups. Questions I have are in bold letters. Please help me.

Steps to Closing Pool:
  • Pool should be below 60 degrees.
  • SLAM pool 4 days before closing and do an overnight test. Link here:
  • Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
  • If OCLT passes, then let FC drift half way down normal range depending on your CYA. For instance, if your CYA is 30 (4-6 normal target), then let your FC drift down to 8. Again, you SLAM your pool at 12. Normal is 4. What is halfway between 12 and 4? Ans = 8.
  • Once OCLT passes, skim, brush, vacuum and clean filter.
  • Let pool mix for 30min after cleaning it.
  • Test Pool (FC, CC, CYA, TA, CH, pH). Note: pH should between 7.4-7.6 before closing and other testings should be within range (make sure your FC has drifted down half way your normal level (additional FC and pH testing may be necessary).
  • Once everything is clean and pool chemicals are within range, add Polyquat to the pool water and let your pool mix for 2 hours. You’ll only be adding this one time before closing. The amount you add is dependent on your pool. For instance, add 1 quart (32oz) to a 20,000 gallon pool, and so forth. Note: you want to add PQ no later than 5pm (I would start earlier if you can).
  • In the mean time, lay out backwash hose. After 2 hours of mixing, it is time to drain your pool.
  • IT’S TIME TO DRAIN YOUR POOL
  • After 2 hours of adding PQ, turn off pump and set the multivalve to “backwash”
  • Remember to set valve to “main drain”.
  • Turn on pump and watch site glass until it’s clear (approx. 2min or until clear).
  • Turn off pump and set multivalve to rinse (approx. 2min or until water at end of hose is clear)
  • Turn off pump and set multivalve to waste to drain the pool.
  • Turn on pump and drain the pool right below the return jets (4”). Again, make sure lever for skimmer/drain is set on main drain only. That way the water is drained from the main drain and not the skimmer.
  • After draining below return jets, turn off pump and place multivalve on recirculate (this will bypass the sand filter while blowing out your pipelines.
REMOVE PLUGS
  • Take plugs out from the sand filter, pump filter, heater, chlorinator and also remove site glass, pressure gauge and hose fittings from the multivalve section.
AIR COMPRESSOR....
  • Plug air compressor to the pressure gauge site. Note: there is a 1/4 pressure gauge opening.
Pressure Gauge Site.jpg
  • Verify that your lever is set on main drain
S & MD.jpg
  • Turn on air compressor. This will blow air into the main drain pipeline until the water bubbles are at the surface of the pool. Blow air (using an air compressor) for at least 1 minute (depending on how powerful the blower is) and the quickly close the main drain valve. You might hear the "air lock" when you do this. Q. when I close the main drain, should I leave the air compressor on while I close the main drain? That way, water does not go into the pipeline of the main drain?
  • While the air compressor is still on, set lever to skimmer and blow out pipelines for the skimmer (again, you’ll see a mist of water to indicate that you’ve blown out the skimmer pipelines). Remove excess water from the skimmer with cup if neccessary. Note: as the compressor is blowing all the water out of the skimmer, it should also be blowing air into the return jet pipe lines as well? [not sure, but I think so 'cause that's how the pool store has been doing it for 4 years]
  • Once water is out of skimmer and return jet (misty or air coming out of both), start plugging the return jets (all three of them).
  • Turn off air compressor.
  • Install Gizmo in the skimmer.
  • Move multivalve to “winter”
  • Remove stoppers from timer
  • Turn off pool breaker
ADDING ANTI-FREEZE (WHERE AND HOW)???
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Pool liner shortage -- what does the future hold?

I have several options for a 21 foot liner, if I want a basic one. But finding an expandable one has been difficult. That's what I spec'd on my Pool Factory package, and they haven't written me a note yet to tell me the liner isn't actually available. Does anyone have any idea what the prognosis is for this winter? Is there reason to expect that more will become available?

I'm glad to have a good amount of time before next summer, but covid has me wary of assuming anything. I will feel better when I have a liner in my hands ready to go. At least one. :)

Jandy iAqualink Programming Help

Moved from HERE

Related issue: I have an IAqualink system, with a wall mounted One Touch and remote capability. This system has been running flawlessly for years. Yesterday, the pool shut off before the programmed time and today it did not start at the programmed time. Both times I was able to manually override, so it's not a serious problem, imo.
Of course, I'm going away for a week next week so now I'm concerned.
Any ideas as to why this would occur? I checked the programs - everything is intact and programmed as input.
Would deleting the programs and rescheduling help? Or clearing the memory (Nuclear option!)?
Thanks in advance!

IntelliTouch to IntelliCenter upgrade questions..

Good afternoon. I'm a long time reader, first time posting. I am not in the industry, but feel that I am fairly skilled and research my projects thoroughly to ensure I am doing them correctly. This spring I had a Heliocol Solar heater installed and we had an existing Waterways Oasis pool automation system that was able to control the solar. There were some issues (mainly it would loose internet connection regularly and the display screen has failed and been replaced multiple times). Due to these issues I was already planning to upgrade the pool automation to the IntelliCenter. I was doing my research and learned these are currently on back order almost everywhere. I placed an order and was happy to wait until last week the Waterways stopped completely.

But this post isn't about the Waterways. Since I already had an IC40 SWG and the actuators I needed, I knew I only needed a load center and the personality kit. I was able to find an IntelliTouch/EasyTouch to IntelliCenter Upgrade - i10PS | 522048, and an IntelliCenter load Center | 522043. Since the i10PS upgrade came with the new HPW Wireless Link Kit I should be set. Surprisingly, purchasing these in this manner saved a significant amount from the price I was finding them together as a total kit (on backorder). Another nice thing, because the load center was already an intelliCenter, the transformer and low voltage 5Amp and 4 Amp breakers did not need to be switched. (I confirmed by PN on each) so I have/had extras.

I wired the transformer 110v black to a 20 amp breaker, violet to neutral bus bar and capped the yellow line. I connected my actuators, gas heater control, temperature sensors IntelliFlow VS control wire, as well as the HPW Link kit to the i10PS board and powered up the system. I was up and running.

I was plugging away and learning the new system set-up wizard, but I had to leave to do some other errands. The system was running along fine for over an hour and I went back to complete the set-up and to establish a connection to the wireless network. While I was trying to assign relays, the screen flashed, went black and I saw a small puff of smoke come from the area of the lv breakers. The 5 Amp 18w breaker had tripped. I powered the breakers off and opened the lv compartment. Nothing appeared damaged. I removed and inspected the lc breakers and they appeared fine. I know smoke doesn't typically come from nowhere so I replaced the 5A breaker with the extra. I powered it back on and it immediately tripped. I then found this thread. I worked through the processes of taking all lv connections off and testing with only the power applied and it immediately tripped again. Upon closer examination of the board I saw a small burn mark on the ETHR, which I had not used. Could this have been the cause of the smoke and if so, what could have caused a prong not even in use to randomly burn out? If not, could it be the same uln2803 issue OZ found? Since it is new, I will contact the warranty department, but want to know if there was anything I can test to ensure I did not cause this issue.

I appreciate all of your help.

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Resurface in Tampa Bay - Project complete!

Getting ready to sign with a builder for a resurface, retile, and some new equipment. Current plaster delaminating is the main impetus -- there's at least one spot on the bottom that flexes when I step on it. And just within the first six inches under the waterline, there's around 7-8 smaller spots delaminating.

  • 10,000 in-ground gunite sport pool (3 - 6.5 - 3 depth).
  • Full demo of existing plaster.
  • Surface: Joining the PebbleSheen Blue S(m)urf club -- though we are still debating between that and Blue Granite for $900 cheaper.
  • Tile: Luv Frosted 1x1 light blue (FST-11LB) or Luv Seacrest Random Blocks (SRT-BR02). They are respectively bottom-middle and bottom-right on attached picture. Leaning towards the Seacrest.
  • Our filter is currently under the skimmer *in the ground*, and is undersized. Apparently this is a common setup for spas and above ground pools, but has baffled everyone who has seen it here. Will be getting a proper filter.
  • Replacing skimmer.
  • New colored LED lights. We currently have two lights, which is a lot for such a small pool. We might be dropping to one or going with spa-sized lights?
  • Our metal light junction boxes are currently sticking out of the ground next to the pool. Will be relocating those. All I can imagine is kids running around the deck and someone busting their head open on one of those things. I've almost tripped over them myself while mowing.
  • Salt water generator.
  • First month service.

Open to opinions on surface, tile, and lights.

I think the only question I have at this point is that the builder does normally do an acid wash start. Been reading a lot about the startups and it seems like that one is not favored? Is this something I should try to push back on to do a bicarb start instead? Mostly worried about fading after selecting a stand-out color.

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Best "tips" you learned from Trouble Free Pool.

Would be interesting to get a thread going on the "best of the best" tips you learned from Trouble Free Pool (TFP).

The best tip I have have learned is to keep my FC high enough to protect from a high demand FC day.

Whether you are manually dosing Liquid Chlorine, using a Stenner (or other LC) pump, or an SWG, you can, and should run at the high end of the recommended FC range (or higher) to protect your pool from getting to the minimum FC for your CYA FC/CYA Chart, and avoiding algae. Since it is safe to swim up to SLAM level FC, this is the greatest "learning" I've had.

New Plaster appears splotchy

Moved from here.
We just had our new cocktail pool plastered and acid washed in the quartzscapes cappuccino 1.5 days ago, it is a very natural looking watercolor, a light tint of green… We are concerned however that there are some areas of the pool bottom and some spots on the tanning ledge and stairs that are not quite even, sort of blotchy. Not sure what to ask the pool builder, as we hope this will change over time, thinking the plaster cures and hardens and that will change?

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