Just noticed my supports are splitting what can I do to fix this??

Can anyone confirm (1) this is true and (2) the most similar Pentair replacement? I think that is Intelliflo3? Pros / cons?

TIA.

I know this is an old thread.

I got an aerator that sprays a rainfall pattern of drops about 8 feet into the air. I was trying to measure if it actually did anything. The pool did seem maybe three degrees cooler but it’s hard to control for ambient weather conditions (cloud cover, humidity, wind).

I decided to run a poor man’s test and put a cup under the bottom of the rainfall pattern (just before it falls back into the pool) to collect some water and tested the temp relative to the pool water temp with a high end kitchen thermometer.

There was about a 2 degree difference (91 deg water to 89 deg water). This was during the peak of the day at the lowest relative humidity (around 40%) and around 98 degree air temp.

I was hoping for a much larger temperature drop. I would think that given the flow rate through the aerator (I would guess around 10 gpm), vs my pool volume (20k gal), that mixing in 10 gpm of 2 degree color water into a 20kgal pool would not do much. Running 24 hours per day wouldn’t even turn over the pool volume once, and that doesn’t account for the loss of effect due to mixing, or with a likely lower delta-T at night when the relative humidity is near 100%.

I still run it for a day before I expect to swim, but not sure if I’m just running it for a placebo effect, haha.

We had a leveling company come in to level a couple of PCs of concrete around our pool. This was supposed to be a simple job. They made a mistake on one section and raised the concrete over an 1” above the copping side which goes up to Flag Stone. In stead of stopping, after one section seeing the damage, they went all the way down the side, leaving a dangerous sharp edge. (About 20+ ft) We now have to remove all of the stone and mortar and have it reset HOW do we keep all of the debris out of the pool. They will have to work from the top.

Our 18 X 36 IG pool install has gone well and relatively quick when compared to other builds I’ve read about here. We are 1 month in and were getting ready for decking/ liner in the next week when we got a decent rain yesterday and the Pool-Krete/vermiculite washed out. It had been down for about 4 days, was not yet sanded and PB didn’t have a tarp over/in it. This is what we are left with as of this morning; is it a complete redo on this portion and how does PB go about this? Hoping someone with expertise can lessen our panic level.
Thanks in advance!

Took off pool cover and pool looked like a pond. Dark green with algae. Balanced water and started SLAM 24 hours ago. Within first 2 hours the water turned a blue-green color, no visibility (I can see the patterns on the side of the pool about 4 inches down). Continued SLAM, but it has been 24 hours now and the water looks exactly the same, also the filter pressure has not increased at all. Do I need to put fresh sand in the filter? Or am I just being impatient? I feel like the pressure should be increasing at least a little bit, and the water should be slightly clearer after filtering for 24 hours. Thanks in advance for your help.

Got my CicruPool RJ-60 all plumbed and wired - best pool investment I've ever made.
My question is, the controller basically sits on a metal bracket. Whenever I go to open the door to check on settings etc, I need to hold the controller down so it doesn't move around.
Is there a more "solid" way to mount the controller so it doesn't move around so much?

Has anyone tried controlling a 4:1 CH/TA ratio?
The attached article describes how a 4:1 CH/TA aids in “containing” ph (effectively reducing ph fluctuations).


I am currently reducing my CYA (target is below 50) and should be there after my next partial drain and re-fill. I will then have a prime opportunity to adjust to a 4:1 CH/TA.
Any comments will be appreciated

And, I apologize in advance if this has been discussed in this forum previously.

I'm buying my first pool route, and i wanted to ask the pros if they could provide a list of resource links for the industry.

I need HELP!!!!! I am at a total LOSS
12x24' Intex pool -
2650 PGH - Model ECO20110-2 Intex pump.
Pump runs 24/7 here in SE GA
Chlorinator usually runs 12 hrs,

I have unplugged the power!
I have set the Boost cycle multiple times to 00.
I have cleaned the Electrodes which had NO build-up!
It seems like since I had it in boost cycle everything is OFF now!
----------------------------------------------------------
I drained the pool to replace the pavers. Filled it back up and started it up as I did for the first time!
The water was slightly green so I ran the boost cycle.
Water cleared up within 24 hrs.
THIS IS WHERE THE PROBLEM STARTED!
I get code 91!!! I do NOT have low salt!!
All levels, incl. salt are in the normal range. The water is crystal clear.
I start the chlorinator, it runs for about 1-2 minutes shuts off and the low salt light comes on! Even after cleaning the Electrodes.
It also goes into SLEEP mode!!!!!

What happened between running perfectly fine, draining refilling, and now everything is OFF?????
The Chlorinator will NOT stay on!!!

thank you

So not only did the oddball installer guy not fit the pressure gauge to our new Triton TR60 filter (per my previous thread), but I don't think he backwashed it initially either (and a fair amount of debris was evidently in the pipes and went into the filter) and now (a week after the install) I've tried to do a backwash and have a bunch of problems.

Firstly the filter has drained of water quite a bit, not sure if that's normal? But more importantly now it's back on Filtration (following 8 mins backwash and 1 min rinse), it just isn't refilling with water; even after about 20 mins.

The pump basket is full of water with no air in there. The air bleed in the top of the filter, if I open it little, it seems like there's a lot of pressure/air wants to release.

Do i need to release that air/depressurise, or if I run it longer willnit eventually come good? The old filter didn't have a manual air bleed and although it would drop water level a bit during backwash, it came good (full of water) very quickly afterwards.

Not sure what I'm doing wrong, or maybe whether the shady installer guy has done something shady that means it's not working as it should?

I've attached a photo of the general setup.

Hi, I'm trying to find the sweet spot for my liquid chlorine pump and considering sometimes I might be away for up to 2 weeks at a time.

So this is what I'm trying to better understand (mainly using liquid chlorine 12.5%)

1. Is it bad if I overchlorinate the pool, aside from wasting money, and if no one is swimming?

2. If pool chlorine is high, say like 10, does it burn off quicker than if it were at like 5? Meaning if I lose like 3 per day, is it basically linear... Or would the 10 drop faster.

3. Well, I don't have an easy solution to cover, so some days sunny and some days cloudy. I've found if I get 3 days sunny, chrlone level drops to 0, if 3 days cloudy level will stay high. CYA is adjusted to be 40.

So #3. Leads me to situation where I lean to overchlorinating to compensate for the stretch of sunny days.

4. I'm pumping in about 3/4 gallon liquid chlorine a day right now. I pump it in over 12 hours while the pump is running. During the day. I'm wondering if better to run pump overnight and let the chlorine build up. Because as I slowly pump in the chlorine during the day. It's also burning off at the same time

Thanks

My pool is about a year old & this is the first full summer we’ve used it. Most of the chemicals look great & it stays clear, but my TA is always high. I’ve been using muriatic acid & then aerating to try to bring it down. It has only brought it down a little bit. Is there anything else I should be doing?

We have an old inground pool that was built in the early 70s. The bottom of the pool is cement/concrete with paint and it has fiberglass panels for the side walls. We have been told it is about 33,000 gallons.
When using pool math calculations do I select fiberglass or cement for my options?
Sand filter

I have read several older threads about air bubbles trapped in SWCG, especially at low pump speeds.
I have had my Core 55 since beginning of June. For the whole month of July, up until about a week ago, I have been running my VSP at 1000rpm, with 2 15 min sessions of 2500, just to flush out any air bubbles.
About a week ago, I have noticed waster flowing through SWCG and the flow switch is pushed to side (not straight up and down), but generator shows no flow light. If I keep everything on, and plug the return jet for a bit, the flow switch drops to vertical and when return is unpluged, the no flow light goes off. When I loosen the union in top, the air escapes and green light comes back on. I turned it up to 1200RPM and after work, I noticed no flow light was on even though there is flow and flow switch is activated. I am currently trying 1300RPM. I tried to outline where air is on picture.
Don't know why this just started this past week, and I have never had issues with it for over a month, with the same settings.
Purpose of VSP is to reduce electric costs w/ lower speed, but if I have to continually turn up speed to clear air, that defeats the purpose. I know its bad to have flow switch not operational but generator still generates, but I'm confused as I can see water flowing and flow switch is activated, but it alerts me to a no flow situation.
Any insights or solutions to this?

We bought a 12 yo home with a really nice in-ground concrete/plaster? pool. LOTS of questions for my new TFP friends! Starting here...

After mining the sand out, I find there is a PVC threaded plug in the bottom main drain. It appears to be glued, so done on purpose and to stay. There is only one return above ground at the pump so no way to trace it. Any guesses as to the problem they were addressing? I am working to contact the previous owner for the backstory but might have to go forward without this intel. Any chance it's been there from day one and there was never a bottom suction (seems impossible to me)?

My current weekly pool guy has only been there 6 years, so it was before his time. He does not want to pull it out not knowing what's behind it. He assures me we have adequate flow since there are two skimmer returns.

Fun times.

General pics attached.

I'm buying a beautiful old home in upstate New York that comes with a pool in need of some work. It's perfectly usable, but looks pretty rough. Problem is, I know nothing about pools and am a bit confused about the pool itself. It's not plaster over gunite, but it doesn't seem to be a one-piece fiberglass pool either - it seems to have seams. Knowing what exactly this pool is would help me get the right folks out to the house to give estimates (many contractors are pretty far away and I don't want to ask folks to make a long trip if it's not the type of pool they work on). Any advice? Pictures are attached.

Two more questions to start off:

The pool is plumbed for a gas heater, but the heater is broken and disconnected. I'd like to buy and install a new one to extend the season. Any recommendations? Are the combo heat pump/gas units worth considering? The house will mostly be used on the weekend, so I'm inclined to just stick with gas.

The deck around it is just concrete. We were planning on just doing whole new hardscaping, but I'm wondering if folks have had good luck with any of the concrete renewal / resurfacing products.

For context, eventually (say, in 10 years), we may want to replace the whole thing. But for now, I'd just like to make it look nicer for a bit and spend money on other projects.

Thanks in advance!
Brant

My spa is a jacuzzi and it has these foam headrest pillows. After a few years the pillows start getting black spots on them - and it appears that the pillows that are used more get more spots. Anyone know why this is the case and what, if anything, you can do to prevent this or slow down the process.

Our pool is now a year old and I've had enough experience with the chiller to know it's making a difference. Now that I'm a year in I'm thinking about ways to dial it in to be even more effective, and I have have a question specifically about the outlet valve. I believe the instructions note the outlet valve should be opened minimally. My question is, if the pump kicks in based on the basin filling up to a specific point, which I believe is the case, where does the outlet value & how much it's opened come into play? In other words, why is the vendor's recommendation to open it minimally? I read elsewhere on this site that opening it more can increase the cycle frequency, but how is that true if the cycle time is based solely on the pump kicking in upon the basin being filled?

I'm sure I'm missing something obvious here, so for anybody who has an answer, even a partial one, thanks in advance for helping me advance my understanding on this topic.

Moved from HERE

I'm having this same issue, however, mine is a brand new pool. Seems unlikely that the flow switch would be bad out of the box. I know that water flow is fine and the filter is clean. I confirmed there's no interlock setup for it. I was also able to deactive the system shutting down due to the "no water flow" alarm via service mode configuration, but I still need an actual solution. I did this pool as an owner/builder so it's on me.

So much false information. Can you imagine some non pool person trying to decipher a test strip to determine if a pool or spa is safe?

Any update on this? Also, have tried reading out the internal temperature of your IC40 with its "testmode" feature? You can find the procedure here: Pentair Intellichlor ICXX SWG - Further Reading

I'm having the same issue. Mine is showing a salt level of 5500 in IntelliCenter. However, I have measured 3600 with the TF Pro Salt kit, and 3100 with a friend's digital salt tester.

This is my first full season with the pool, and I just added salt back in April. From the beginning, my cell would read around 4400 with a true salt level of 3600 as measured by both myself and the pool store. At that time, my water temperature was 70 F.

I read that the IC40 does not compensate for temperature. So, my guess is it has always had this problem, but now that the water temperature is higher (currently 85), it has pushed the salt reading above the limit, causing my high salt light to flash.

I've read a bunch of posts on here regarding high salt reading with correct salt levels, but none seem to post back what they did to fix it, or they just lived with it.

I did do the test mode on the IC40 last week to see if it was reading temperature correctly, and it was properly lighting up 80% with a water temperature of 84. Also, the IntelliCenter app is currently showing 85 in the Chemistry area. Not sure if that is the IntelliCenter water temperature probe reading or the reading of the thermister in the IC40 itself.

Today, I cleaned the cell hoping that would fix it. I inspected the cell, and it looked clean. I bought the cap to do the MA cleaning procedure, so decided to try that anyways. I added a 1:1 solution and saw no bubbles (expected, as it looked clean). Left it for 10 minutes, then flushed it out and put it back into service. It still read 5500.

Not sure what else to try. Sounds like if I call Pentair, they're just going to recommend a new flow switch. However, if it is showing the correct temperature, and good flow, not sure how that could be it.

Moved from here.

Before I jump into getting a solar collector kit, what is the cost one should expect to pay for a durable quality 480 sq. Ft kit?

New to the forum but have been researching the issues with the PCB of the Aqua Trol for a month or so now without any luck. I have done all of the troubleshooting as detailed in the manual but seem to be stumped when it comes to pin 2 and 4 of the display board. I get readings way off from the norm. 22vdc on pin 4. Pin 2 I get nothing. Thermistor looks to be fine. Did a resistance test on it and numbers seems to be good. TP13 I get 5v. R17 I get 24v and 19v on right side. TP14 I get around 3 vdc which seems a little off as this should be 5vdc from what I have researched. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Hi. I'm a 3 year pool owner.
I came all the way here looking for the swimming pool information. Let's try to get along.

Our indoor pool runs year round and the water has not been changed in over 2 years. The pool gets minimal use and the water is clean and clear. I'm not having any problems with the water chemistry. The Aquasol Controller keeps the bromine level at a steady 6-7 ppm and pH at a steady 7.5 with the acid feeder. Should I be thinking about a drain and refill or is that not necessary until/ unless I start experiencing some problems? What kind of problems might I start to experience that would indicate it's time for a fresh fill? Thanks for any input on this.

Hi,

I’m newly in SF bay area. My house has fresh water pool with a CYA of 70. My thought was to use pool water to water the numerous trees and plants (no grass) and slowly dilute out the CYA to 50 over the summer. So my question:

1. How low does the FC need to be used on plants? Would something lowish, like and FC of 1 be ok? I know what website say--none-- but realistically what would still be acceptable?

Thanks

Having solar installed today. Current setup is a Pentair VS pump, the solar touch controller, and polaris 280 with pressure side pump. According to the installer the booster pump will no longer be controlled by the rotary timer, and the pump will no longer be controlled by the onboard programming (prgm 1-8).

I'm curious how this will all work, how I can control my regular filtering and cleaning schedules. I like to tweak them a bit to fit in with time of day power usage rates, when we swim, and to save money. I've looked on youtube for videos but don't see much with regard to the scheduling, what controls what. Sounds almost like when the solar is in heat demand mode it goes back to the timer on the pump, but that doesn't explain the booster pump. Anybody have links I can get educated or insight (i don't fully trust the installers will tell me everything I need to know, kinda why were all here doing things ourselves)

TIA

I got a new/used 2022 Intex Ultra XTR 16’x48” with the SX1500 Sand Filter pump. Pump cord has GFCI plug. I have a GFCI outlet however, the cord is tool short to reach the outlet, so I am using an outdoor extension cord (like I did with the old pump that did NOT have GFCI plug). I plugged the cord into the extension cord and the GFCI tripped and pump wont work. I read on another thread to switch out the GFCI for a 3-prong to avoid the trip. I did so, plugged it into the extension cord, and pump still wont work. Am I going to have an electrician put the GFCI outlet closer to the pool, so it can be directly plugged into that? I had no problems with using extension on the other pump and it was 3-prong.
Pool is very nice BTW

Why is my solar touch throwing errors every couple days- pump alarm Solar pause. No changes in pump schedules. No power outage. Not manually turning pump off. It’s completely random. Some days it works some days it alarms.