Hey guys, my water parameters are all looking pretty solid except I'm wondering about calcium:

FC: 5
CC: 0
pH: 7.6
TA: 70
CH: 300 or 325 depending on how accurate I'm being (I think)
CYA: 70
Salt: 3400
CSI: -.32


I was thinking of adding enough calcium chloride to get to 425 because pool math tells me my ideal levels are 350-550. That would also bring my CSI closer to 0.

My tap water comes out at 200-225 CH.

With evaporation etc I figure my ch levels are going to trend upward. I'm in southern California so I add quite a bit of water over the year.

What do you guys think?

Over the last couple of years, I've noticed fairly small amounts of what I assumed were filter sound accumulating below the return ports of my in-ground, part tiled/part concrete lined pool. The sand in the filter needed changing and sure enough one of the spreaders had cracked, so I replaced it.

Cement surround to skimmer access port had also crumbled away, leaving water to bath and dissolve surrounding concrete. This has now been replaced and covered so no exposed concrete.

New pump recently fitted (more powerful) and within a week - round a 'dump' about cup full) of what I thought was sand in the pump basket, but on closer inspection, I think this is concrete (photo attached) as it's too course. Have just had another cup-full today and tend to find about an eggcup full every time I empty the pump basket (maybe every 2 weeks). I'm unsure whether this is just 'legacy concrete' from the skimmer which the newer, more powerful pump is pulling through the system, or whether it's new and represents a horrible/expensive problem lurking somewhere in the circuit. I don't think the water level is noticeably dropping (pool runs approx 8hrs/day), but not sure if this is reassuring or not...

Anyone know if there is a way of working out if this is something to be worried about? My current problem is just to watch and wait and hope the concrete accumulation clears and keep an eye on the pool level...

Thanks in advance...

Hello...looking for any tips on how to evaluate proposals. Liners being proposed are GFI or Latham and based on my research both are good.
Most companies want 50% order liner now for spring installation. One is asking me to store the liner over the winter. Is that the norm? I guess if something happens over the winter it is on my dime if at my home ...anything else about this? Any tips would be welcome. First time doing this and not a small investment. Thank you in advance. Glad to have found this forum.

Good day everyone,

Planning on installing a safety cover over my inground pool. The dog ripped our vinyl cover in the spring. I chose the safety cover so that he wouldn’t rip apart another new vinyl snap in cover. He couldn’t resist the water that had melted and pooled over the vinyl cover. Once he reached the steps (with wooden cover) he probably had a challenge getting out due to the vinyl cover lowering from the weight of the snow and water.

I have pavers over a gravel and HPB bedding. Not sure what length aluminum tubes with anchors I should be installing. The options I have found are 10” or 18” with brass anchors. Is there a particular length that would be better. I’m worried that I will have trouble hammering in the longer ones.

Also, the pool cover that I will order is not custom. My pool is 15 x 29. Rectangular with angled corners. Steps in the Centre at one end. If I get a rectangular pool cover that is 18x32 it will cover two ends with more overlap. I’ll space it out so that the overhang is even on all sides. Will the longer overhang be an issue?

Appreciate any feedback. Nervous about this install. Doing it myself will keep it on a reasonable budget.

jeqwerty1969 said:

I used salinity to calculate mine as it is one thing that is a fairly stable measurement and you can find digital meters to read it

Click to expand...

Teach me sense - I’m adding salt to my pool this week. Perfect window to figure out exactly how many gallons I’m working with

My pool builder installed 9x9inch flagstone skimmer covers with like a 1 inch hole in the center. They are about one inch thick. One of my covers broke has anyone here ever cut their own out for a replacement? My question is how did you cut out the hole for your finger to lift the skimmer cover? What type of hole saw did you use? I have spider hole saw bits but I'm afraid those won't cut through flagstone. Thanks

Wanted to post our experience with hooking up our new IntelliCenter via the new "high power wireless link kit," (not EnGenius) as we had some issues and failed to find answers when we searched.

First, we upgraded our EasyTouch 8 panel using the Intellicenter upgrade kit. We did this so that we could install the IntelliChem system to monitor and deploy muriatic acid on an as-needed basis.

We also wanted to be able to monitor things remotely. Pentair apparently no longer supports the ScreenLogic app (plus it sounds like it never worked well on android), and we understand there are issues connecting ScreenLogic to a Google mesh network.

So we decided to upgrade our panel to the IntelliCenter. The upgrade went smoothly and the IntelliChem system seems to be working great so far.

We did have some connectivity and setup issues with our new IntelliCenter though.

The system comes with an outside antenna that is connected to the IntelliCenter control board via an ethernet cable. This antenna communicates wirelessly to a receiver that plugs directly into our router (we use T-mobile high-speed internet). Once these units were powered (and the Enable Web & Mobile Interface setting on the IntelliCenter was set to ON), the IntelliCenter came online with its own IP.

We then tried to create a new account but kept running into problems. We were able to input all information for a new account, but kept getting an error when it tried to create the account. The error was "Unable to connect to WIFI device. Please check the WIFI device is powered, fully booted and the network cable is connected to the ethernet port on the back of the IntelliCenter main board (TCP_ERR)."

We tried to connect to our local network via the Network & Wifi Setup, but the IntelliCenter would search and search for networks but never find any. Simultaneously, we had an IP address and the IntelliCenter was clearly connected to the internet already. So it appeared to need a connection to the local network in order to complete the account setup, but since the new link essentially bypasses the local network, we could not create the account. Catch-22.

Anyway, we ended up bringing our router outside and connected an ethernet cable directly from the router to the IntelliCenter board itself, skipping both the antenna and the receiver. This allowed us to create a new account online. After that, we were able to log in via our mobile devices. After that, we returned the router back inside, reconnected the receiver and the antenna, confirmed that once again the IntelliCenter had an IP address, and everything worked great.

Moral of the story: If you have an existing account to log into, you'll probably be fine. But if you have to create a new one, you may need to hard-wire it in order to get that account set up.

I hope this helps someone!

####

Hi,
What’s the best place to purchase a Mastertemp igniter replacement?
Are they generally around $50?
Thanks!

Had some water on the inside of one of my Pentair pool lights. Removed the fixture from the niche and took the light apart.
I am ordering a new gasket and will like put some silicon on the power cord entry to the fixture.

Im also thinking about replacing the “guts”. But, wow, lots of things!! The light (when it was still in the pool) worked - at least put out light.
Before I attempt to pull the guts, does anyone know if this fixture has a standard medium base style fixture?

Here are some pictures I just took:

I have a 15000 gallon salt water pool with a Hayward sand filter, and Autopilot cell and Autopilot Pool Pilot Digital SWG. I've had nothing but issues the entire 13 years I've had this and doing this myself with my own research isn't working.

Right now the issue is the low amps - Cell? warning.
After running boost for about an hour, it's at 3000ppm salt, 28 volts, and 3.0a. The cell and cell cord are 4.5 years old and I know have been cleaned once in the past couple years with muriatic acid (I think). I haven't checked if it's clean yet, but I guess that's one thing I need to do. Should I just replace the cord first, or after 4.5 years, it's time for cell and cord most likely?

Otherwise, I've had to replace the pump and motor every few years also. They just get burnt up so quickly. I have to be doing something wrong.

Thanks in advance.

If I do need to replace the cell, saltpoolstore has a generic SC-36 / RC35/22 for $150 less with 5 year warranty as opposed to the $399 for Autopilot cell everywhere else?

I’ve got a 13 month old Starite SR200NA and I’m getting the E05 error. It starts and runs for about one minute then shuts off and flashes E05. If i turn the heater off and then on again the same thing happens. I have checked to make sure the intake and exhaust are clean. What else should I be checking?

Hello, welcome to my pool pump saga.

Pump context: Hayward Variable Speed Pump, SP2600VSP, approximately 9 years old.

Problem 1) noticed since the beginning of the summer that one of our two jets was coming out a lot more bubbly. Had to backburner dealing with that as other house problems had to take priority. It got noticeably worse about two weeks ago, but I finally investigated the pump and realized there was water leaking from the discharge outlet connection going from the pump and the filter. Applied epoxy and the bubbliness has decreased slightly, but even after a few epoxy applications there's still some leaking. Last night, did a re-prime with the hose, which seemed to further decrease (but again, not entirely remove) the extra bubbliness. Hoping that decrease will continue to stay (i will update this if there is change). Current theory: air leak problem which may need the connection to be replaced (which will be a joy because some previous repairperson GLUED our pump and filter hoses together where they connected...)

Problem 2) This may just be as a result of Problem 1 (and preceded the epoxy application), but last weekend, after running for several hours (no more than usual though), the pump refused to maintain speed, before shutting itself off.

Problem 3) Noticed our buttons getting a little touchy over the summer—have to press a little harder or in certain areas to actually activate the button. However, as of a few days ago, the buttons have pretty much become non-operational. We plug in the pump and it turns on to the highest speed (3000) and pressing any of the other speed buttons, arrows, or run/stop does nothing. Only way to turn off the pump is by disconnecting the power entirely. The ONLY button that does anything is the disp/func which once pressed will switch to PR, climb up to PR 4.00 then just stay there and once more none of the buttons will do anything, nor will anything else happen with that button and we just end up back to having to unplug...

Anyone have any ideas on whether it's worth looking into repairing the potential air leak or investigating whatever is going on with the buttons (or have any tips I can try for further troubleshooting?), or if we should just get a new pump?

TIA

I have a pool water test kit that I use but it appears I need to slam my pool and the chlorine test only goes to 10.
I see TFP sells kits but I don't need the whole kit, I just need to be able to test chlorine levels above 10.
Where might I find this one component?

I am trying to free up some spots in my easy touch control panel for an additional circuit breaker. And for some reason I have two circuit breakers for my lights. One is for the main pool lights and accents lights and the other is for bubble lights. The thing is I only have one transformer for the lights. I am a bit confused why it was wired this way. Thanks for any insight you can give me.

Dave

I have a 24k gallon in ground vinyl pool. Looking for recommendations for a pump and filter. I currently have a Hayward sand filter and pump and am tired of replacing parts and repairing. I want something reliable and efficient.

Thank you!!

Crud, started draining the pool and completely forgot... 3 hrs later and she's much lower then I would like.

I probably drained about a 3rd of the water.

Do I need to fill this up more or is it going to be OK for Michigan winter and fill it up in the spring.

My fear is the sides colapse in or liner pops out of track or who knows!

Thank you for any advice.

I have a 4 plus year old Zodiac. In my last home it worked just fine at about 2800 rpm attached to one of the pool skimmers.

We moved and the new house has a working dedicated suction line for the cleaner. The first time I tried the cleaner it moved slowly at 2450 rpm.
I checked to make sure there were no obstructions or debris put it back in and it worked, more slowly then the other house but it covered the entire pool surface. It was never able to really climb walls at either pool.

I purchased new scrubber brushes and new treads and replaced them as well as cleaned the old rubber gunk from the old treads.
I tried it at 2500 rpm and it wouldn't move it all. I tried it all the way up to 3250 and still nothing. I took the new treads off and put back the old worn treads. The brushes are moving when I lift it out of the water but when I place it back in the pool there is no movement at all.

Where should I start? Engine assembly replacement? Bearings?

Thanks for your help.

I've been a long time reader of the TFP forums. I took over the maintenance of my pool a few years ago when I retired. I thought I knew what to do, until I didn't. I researched the internet with each question or issue I encountered. I finally came to the realization that the most straight forward pool methodology, consistent help, kind answers and positive support was on and from the users at TFP. I've recently decided I'm done with the pool stores, test strips and mixing and matching pool maintenance methodologies. I ordered a Taylor test kit and look forward to reading through the Pool School.

Leaves are a problem for me and whenever I'm away from home for a prolonged period of time I need to manage the risk of my skimmer basket clogging up which would make my expensive pump run dry causing very expensive damage. (No, someone coming to clean up my skimmer every other day while I'm on vacation is not an option!).

Saw lots of cool DIY ideas on this forum mostly out of PVC and netting.. Kudos to those of you that have the time and ability to build that! If you, like me, don't want to build it yourself though, I found the perfect tool: Critter Clear. I purchased mine on Amazon. Simple but very solid, high quality non-metallic construction that just works without frills. You'll come back from vacation with a bunch of leaves on the floor but your pump will be running just fine! I have a wide-mouth skimmer and it covered it perfectly.

Thought I'd leave a review here in case others also need something similar

Good luck!

Hello
Has anyone had any experience with their ColorSync flashing rotating lines? Mine has just started two after two weeks of operation. There have been a few issues with it so far with the flow switch. Now this rotating 4 lines has started. Any help would be great!
I have already reset the unit and tested the fuse in the power center which is ok.

I have a 30+ year-old inground pool that had friction-secured weir doors installed when I moved in. One just failed. When looking at the underside of the skimmer cover, it has markings of "Swimquip U3" which seem to indicate a Pentair weir skimmer assembly. The Pentair weir door has a base plate with hinges for the door. Upon inspection, the remaining base plate for a previous weir door is indeed in place, secured by one or more screws.

My question: I ordered a replacement door (8650-4 door and hinge plate with correct dimensions and hopefully, the correct replacement) that is a Pentair with the correct dimensions. Can I detach the new door from its base plate and snap it into the existing base plate hinge posts, or am I going to have to get into the pool with a Phillips head screwdriver and replace the base plate as well? If the latter, this is a royal pain as this door only lasts a year or two.

Hello!

One of the primary caretakers for our household pool—previously primarily taken care of by my mother but has now moved on to my sister and myself. We've helped out a lot but there's still lots we don't fully know, and this is of course the year everything seems to be having problems. Have an in-ground pool, approximately 70,000 litres. Just got a new liner. Have a hayward heater, filter, and pump.

Hey folks, first time poster here. I searched the threads and didn't see anything on point here. Might be that I'm terrible at searching.

I bought a house with a Pentair Easy Touch 8 and have a booster pump powering my cleaner. Works fine in "Service" mode - I can start it up and it'll just just fine. But there is always a delay in the normal/Auto mode and the cleaner doesn't turn on automatically on time. If I manually cancel the delay, it'll start up for a moment and then just shut down. Anything obvious about why the booster pump would work fine when I turn it on manually but keep delaying itself when I force-delay cancel? It's been stumping me and I'm concerned there is some Delay safety setting that I could be missing.

Will the fingers from a Hayward Perflex 65 fit in the canister of Hayward 50?

We are seriously thinking of adding a heater to our 21x41 above ground Doughboy with a deep end and bottom drain. We are in the midwest and not looking to really extend the swimming season beyond May-Sept. But our kids and grandkids are getting older and complaining about the cold water and the adults are very reluctant to join in when the water is below 82-84. We have had a home made solar heater which just doesn't do much and have had several solar covers in the past. I have researched a little, but looking for advice. Of course, I would like it to be as economical as possible, but still be able to keep the water in the mid 80's during the summer.
Thanks in advance for any advice, or suggestions.

My pool store said to add 18 lbs bLa. E pk for my 13000 gal pool??

Hi, I just stumbled on this forum, so this is my first post...hoping someone can give me some direction here. So, here's the situation. I have an iAqualink 2.0 system, and I've had no problems with it for the last six years. A few weeks ago we had a pretty bad thunder storm, and I'm assuming my equipment got hit by lightening, or at least a close strike, as the next morning I noticed my pump wasn't running any more, and of course my iAqualink wouldn't connect. I did replace my pump motor, but everything seemed to be in working order. My main iAqualink panel is still working, as it's still running the equipment, I can switch between modes, and run the pool from the panel, etc. The actual pump part seems to be working fine now, but my issue is I'm getting the dreaded "Connection Error, Could not connect to device." I've been through dozens of forums and videos and tried just about all the troubleshooting options I can find, but still no luck. Here's why I'm confused as to what the actual issue could be. Like I said, the panel seems fine, I've checked the wire connections, power cycled many times, done a reset. So for the Antenna, the previous owner actually ran a wire into the house, so the antenna is only a few feet from my router, but I've also tried running a network cable directly to it as well. If it's on wifi, I can connect no problem. It brings up the network login and seems to connect fine. I get all three lights. When I try switching to a hardwired connection, I flip the wifi switch a few times, and again, get all three lights. I have tried deleting the app on my phone, tried deleting the location and re-adding, tried doing it all on my computer, but again, no luck. The other weird thing is, if I go through the browser on my PC, it says it's connected, but when I open the window, it just says waiting for connection. I guess my question is, do you think it's a hardware issue? If so, any idea which part I should switch out? Or could it still be something with the software? I know you've all seen plenty of the iAqualink connection errors, but this one seems to be different. Thanks for your help.

UPDATE - app kept giving issues but worked on my iPad - deleted & reinstalled and back in business

Anybody else facing issues with the Pentair Home app? I get a jolly "Oops something went wrong" for the past half an hour...

Can anyone suggest the best in ground pool alarm for pets and if it should include an app for if you are not at home?