Hi everyone,

Thanks for the forum and advice so far. I have been reading through a lot (information overload) and have bought the Clear Choice Labs salt water testing kit. Have done a couple of tests and compared with the results from a store test, some differences but not too badly out. However....

Today I did a test with the following results:
FC - 29
CC - 0
pH - 7.8 (test max - last store result and controller shows >8.5)
TA - 120 estimating (last store result was 105, result from todays test showed over 300)
CH - 275
CYA - <30 (5 based off last store result)
SALT - 6800 (3125 last store result) - I haven't added any salt so this seems super weird
Temp - 31C
CSI - 0.16

Over the past 4 days I have added 5 litres of MA (29%) with no reduction in the pH levels. I am concerned about adding in too much due to the smell/taste of the water. We don't use the pool for 1-2 hours after adding but as the pool is indoors, there is a distinct metallic smell in the air and taste to the water afterwards.

Previously when the pool installer added MA (by hand and through the controller feeding system), the smell was very strong and our skin ended up in a rash and itching like no tomorrow, so I want to avoid that happening again.

The FC is really high, I have turned down the SWCG to 20%, wondering if I should bypass it and have the pool on recirculation instead for a while. Need to keep it heated as the reason for getting it is to help my wife with chronic pain.

Last backwash was 5 days ago, along with vacuuming to waste due to a white powdery coating on the pool floor that I thought might be bi-carb but wasn't soluble.

Any advice/suggestions appreciated.

I use Sodium Bisulphate to lower PH in my spa. I notice it's not included in the Pool Math app. Am I missing something?

Thanks

I cleaned my salt cell yesterday and all seemed well. This morning my "Low Salt" and "Check Cell" lights were back on. After searching on YouTube I found a possible fix for a different Blueworks model with switches and a knob but I didn't see anything for this model.

My chlorinator was displaying 0000 salt even though I know that was wrong. I fiddled around with the "buttons" for a while. I think this fixed it. (Adapted from the switch and knob model.)

1. Turn off the chlorinator until the display powers down.

2. Turn on the chlorinator.

3. Press Menu until the salt level is displayed. Mine was 0000.

4. Press the salinity "button" five times.

My salt level immediately read 2500 and the "Low Salt" and "Check Cell" lights went out.

Fingers crossed!

I am looking for help in figuring out which salt cell is compatible with my system. I am (completely) a pool dummy. I have a Summer Waves pop-up type pool, 20’x48”, just under 10,000 gallons. I bought a Blue Works BLSC-20 chlorination system September of 2020 to use summer 2021. I think the cell is failing. I have voltage readings of 24.2, amperage of 3.02-3.07, my salinity is 3400. (Although, it does read 0000 at times. I did a salinity strip test that says I have plenty of salt.) The cell appears to be clean so I can only deduce that it has expired.
The issue is that I can’t find a replacement! The model says: BLSC20-BT. I cannot find this cell. The system states that it is compatible with Hayward Goldline AquaRite, SwimPure, AquaRite XL, NatureSoft, SmartPure, Mineral Springs, and Blue Essence Systems. I don’t know if the Blue Works cell is compatible with these or if these cells would work with my Blue Works system!
In addition, I have no clue what the differences are between a t-cell 3, 9, 15 and what is comparable to what I have! Can anyone advise?

Hello everyone, I'm very new and green in regards to pools. I just bought a home 6 months ago with a nice in ground pool but the old single speed pump went out. I scheduled a installation appointment for a new jandy vs pro pump. It was recommended to me that I should install a GFCI breaker for the pump, before the pump guy came I had an electrician come to put a GFCI breaker in, but he left the little 20a in the subpanel for the pump and instead he installed a 40a double pole GFCI breaker at the main pool panel? (I believe it's called the main). He says now all of my pool equipment is protected,not just the pump. My questions are is he correct in what he said? And do I still need a GFCI in the sub panel dedicated for the pump? Or is it good now? Thanks everyone . I attached the GFCI he installed in the "main pool equipment panel" and a picture of the sub panel as it currently sits

I have a friend who just bought a house with a pool that has been and is still being maintained by some pool guy. I've been talking to my friend about our method, and he bought a TF-100 kit and plans on taking over his water chemistry himself in the near future. Anyway, he sent me this message last night:
.
> One thing I forgot to mention, [the pool guy] tested the water for
> chlorine today by squeezing a few drops of something directly into the
> pool, and watching to see if it turned red. I didn’t see the number on
> the bottle, but it looked like the bottles in my kit, and I think the
> lid was red. I’m not sure what to think about that.
.
Well, I don't know what to make of that either. Any thoughts on what the pool guy was doing?

My fan motor appears to have gone out on my chiller. I checked the breaker and it seems to be fine. Chiller pump is working and both pump and fan are wired to the same breaker. I know nothing about electrical components except how to turn them on and off. Is there anything else I should check before ordering a new motor? Also, do I have any options other than the Glacier replacement motor? They want $500 for a 1/4 hp motor, which seems outrageous. It has a long shaft for the fan blade and a unique 3 point mounting bracket that is part of the housing. I searched the model number, but found nothing. Thanks for any help!

Hi there,
We have been pool owners for 9 years. When I say we, I mean, my husband. Came with the house (the pool, not the husband) and we learnt as we went along Just had a new liner installed last week but already having some issues (liner floating away from the sides and already coming out of the track). Installers tell us this is ‘fine’ - I’m not so sure.
Hopefully we can learn more about the correct way to install liners and find information to help maintain our pool and keep it good shape without bankrupting us!

I have a salt water system that I love but plan to upgrade my pool next year.

First time closing using the TFP system. What I got to do? Water is crystal clear.

Hello all, I had previously owned an inground pool in Florida, but we are now in Connecticut, and have installed an above ground pool earlier this summer. I have been a bit negligent on chlorine for a brief time and the pool has gotten away from me. It is now time to close up for the season, but im having a hard time getting the water clear. With the inground pool it was easier due to the bottom drain sucking up the dead algae. I did just order the pf-100 kit, so im hoping to get the water situated soon. One question I had is, I have brought with us my electric robotic vacuum that we used in florida. Would this be sufficient to clean up the algae when I finally am able to get it to break down, or do I need a different vacuum? I'm finding it very difficult to brush the pool due to the fact that I don't have a deck around it yet. The previous owners had a pool up to the deck at one time, but this pool was a little lower, so I built it away from the deck with the intent to tie in to the old deck in the future. Any help or advice? Thank you!

Does anyone know where I can find these kid brackets to support pavers? I need 13” long brackets.

I have seen some posts on dealing with cracked compression nut ? due to freesing
does any one have info on repairing it

I had an invround pool liner replaced I. September of 2020. The liner was put in and the company closed the pool for the winter immediately after they were done placing the liner.
Upon opening the pool in spring of 2021 , I discovered the liner had slipped over winter. The company came back any pulled it up.
When I reopened the pool again , in spring of 2022, tne liner had slipped on the side directly opposite from the first time. The company claimed this was normal for a replacement liner. After 2 months they came to fix it at a cost.
I am now ready to close, and the original place that the liner slipped has done so again.
Is this normal, or should I pursue the issue further with the pool company? They were not owning the problem last time, and I doubt they will be this time. Also, is there a way to seal off the gap between the upper side of the pool and the liner so no water gets behind it?
Thanks for any advice,
Jane

I have a Pentair Challenger CHII N1 1.5A/346206 model pump. Recently the pump abruptly shut down so I figured it was the capacitor. Took off the capacitor and ordered what showed to be the exact same one from Amazon (turns out the new one is slightly different as you can see in the pic). I then hooked up the new one but nothing happened so now am thinking the motor died. So I then tested both capacitors for the MFD. The original capacitor tested 11MFd and the new one tested 30Mfd. So now I'm wondering if the capacitor and motor died at the same time? That seemed unlikely so I called the manufacturer of the capacitor (Titan) and they said even though the 2 capacitors are slightly different with different model numbers they should act exactly the same. So now I am wondering if I should try another capacitor or if there is a way I can test the motor without the capacitor to see if it just died. Any help would be appreciated.

My 5 year-old Maxflo quit working the day before leaving on a cruise for a week (such is life; put a float in with tabs and hoping for the best). Control panel was completely dead. Checked power in and at the control board and all were hot. Assumed it was bad and hoped to find a replacement. Went to local pinch-a-penny and was told that 3-5 years is about the standard life of the VS drives. Can this really be true? (BTW, the single speed it replaced had a hole rusted through the side and was running strong)
Was also told parts aren't available. Based on searching, this seems to be true. Anyone aware of parts or is this really a replacement scenario? On the cruise now, but looking forward to responses when I return!

Hi all, we are close to finalizing the details for a new pool construction in DFW. I wanted to run some of the details by everyone here who have way more pool experience in order to get in front of any major red flags we may not be aware of. Attached are the details of the quote.
Pool size:

• Pool and Spa: 495 SF / 108’ Per.
• Dimensions: 36’ x 16’ Depth: 4' X 5' X 4'6" EST. Gallons 12,890

Equipment list (note some things have changed from the attached quote, this list is the most up-to-date):

• Main circulation pump: Jandy Pro Series ePump 2.7hp variable speed: #VSSHP270DV2A
• Water feature pump: Jandy Pro Series pump 2.2gpm: #VSSHP220DV2A
• Polaris quattro robotic pool sweep : F4TH
• Polaris booster pump: PB4SQ
• Jandy CL580 filter: #CL580
• Jandy Jxi 400K BTU gas heater: JXI400NK
• Polaris 1.5 HP air blower: PSB215
• 12 W LED color pool/spa lights : JLU4C12W100
• Pool control: iAquaLink automation kit : RS-PS6
  • Sub panel: 6614-LD
  • iAquaLink: 1Q30-A

Obviously the main thing missing from the list is the chlorination method. Being in Texas our pool builder is very strongly pushing to not do SWCG, while research online from actual owners seems to strongly recommend SWCG. Their reasons are corrosion of coping and decking (we are thinking sandblasted marble), and corrosion of a metal (powder coated steel) shade structure we are planning on having over part of the pool. I've researched a bunch and know most of the arguments here that the levels of salt is very minimal, normal liquid chlorine pools have salt too, a not properly balanced pool causes corrosion not salt, etc.

So I am currently trying to push for SWCG, but no part number yet. Is there a Jandy SWCG you guys would recommend? I am concerned about corrosion, especially on the decking and metal structure since they aren't cheap, but have no first hand experience with it happening so I am relying on the perceptions of others (pool builders and service people who say SWCG is going to corrode everything, and owners who say they would never go back).

Thanks in advance for any and all advice!

Firstly howdy, hope you are all well, I’ve not been here for a while as I’m dialled in with pool care. If I’m honest I’ve gotten a bit lazy now I have a swcg and only test every couple of weeks.

Anyway my question is if my swcg is producing chlorine does that mean there is enough salt or could I still have too little salt Such that it is not operating as efficiently as it could do?

I know the answer is test it but as I’m not in the US I can’t buy any of the test kits you recommend, so have to rely on other less reliable methods, which is a dip stick for salt!

(I have a photometer for the other readings which I think works ok, albeit would be a struggle to use if I needed to SLAM. )

I have a Dolphin Premier Robotic Pool Cleaner. Now I'm in the process of shocking the pool before winter closure. What is the highest free chlorine level I can run the robot? Tha manual says 4ppm is the max. I am wondering if people go above that.

Hey folks!

I'm new here but I've had my pool for 6 years. I recently replaced my tcell from a tcell 9 to a tcell 3. (My pool is under 15000 gallons). My omnilogic automation still considers the chlorinator as a tcell 9 and I am getting inaccurate salt levels. How can I update my system to the new tcell type?

Thanks in advance!

My main battle with my pool for 20+ years is maintaining enough suction to keep my skimmer skimming and my Hayward crawler crawling. As the DE filter clogs and the back pressure rises this gets harder and harder. Not enough suction to go around.

This year installed new DE filter grids and was amazed at how good the flow was. Crawler was moving even when high speed (2800 rpm) switched to low speed (1500 rpm) and the water fall stayed strong as well instead of turning to a dribble.

After a Phoenix monsoon dropped a bunch of dirt and leaves in my pool a couple days ago I worked to clean it up, noticed the waterfall and suction was weak even at high speed, and so I did a first backwash. I did a 2 min backwash, water looked clean, then recirculated pool for ~15 min before another 30 sec backwash. Added 4-5lbs DE and while it now runs OK, it seems the vains are not transmitting nearly as well as when the grids were new...suction is back to marginal.

Would more backwash have helped? Another explanation?

Good afternoon! Currently have a pool/spa under construction, where pool equipment (pump, heater, salt water generator) is installed south facing and essentially getting a full dose of sun all day with no shade around it. We live in north eastern Maryland, and are currently entertaining the idea of running the spa all winter which would factor into our desire to provide extra protection over our equipment. Has anyone had experience with pool equipment covers like "The Pool Pump Cover" from Purchase your Pool Pump Cover today. Free shipping in USA ... or have any other tips / suggestions?

https://www.familydollar.com/homeline-concentrated-bleach-121oz/FD1417037

It has 6.5% sodium hypochlorite

Right now the product is out of stock, but I was wondering if it ever goes back to stock would it be wise to use that?

Home Depot has 128 oz for $8.50 giving me 0.0664 cents per ounce.

Family dollar has 121 oz for $2.95 giving me 0.0243 cents per ounce.

I know that different concentrations have different demands, so using the pool calculator:

To raise Fc from 1.2 to 3 I would need
43 oz of liquid chlorine giving me a cost of $2.855
69 oz of bleach giving me a cost of $1.68

So if that bleach is fine to use on an inground pool, it would be cheaper in the long run unless there's something wrong I'm seeing?

Has anyone winterized a pool basketball base that is filled with water? If so what is the best method, drain half and replace half with pool antifreeze? Deciding whether to drain it (Dunnrite Splash and Shoot) which has a drain on the top so siphon would be used but thinking of avoiding that. I could drain and probably store in shed (definitely two person job). Just want to know if pool antfireeze 50/50 would be good enough in NJ. We can a few days of zero but usually winter is not that cold.

The product is sold at Home Depot and appears to be one of the highest concentrations of calcium chloride, with the other ingredients being harmless:

INGREDIENTS: Calcium Chloride, 90-94%, CAS. No 10043-52-4; Water, 1.3%, CAS. No 7732-18-5; Potassium Chloride, 1-2%, CAS. No 7447-40-7; Sodium Chloride, 1-3%, CAS. No 7647-14-5

Hi gang. Just bought a new house with a 32x16 inground with diving board. The pool is 3 ft in the kiddie end, and slopes down to 8ft in the deep end. I've been reading complaints about how many pool vacuums cant handle the incline from the deep end to the shallow end, but climbs the walls just fine. Anyone know of a vacuum that can navigate the incline without doing backflips? Thanks for any help!! look forward to next season.

I'm about to put a deposit down on a Latham Claremont pools. The pool is listed as 14x33, but are the inside dimensions more like 13x32? I'm laying it out in my backyard with string line and I want to be sure. Thanks!

Hi all,

I have a new pool (NTB Mini Pebbles) with plaster installed two months ago. I am very attentative with the chemistry, and measure most parameters several times a week. I feel that pH keeps crawling every time I adjust it to 7.5 it gets up to 8.3 or so within 4-5 days. So I am probably adding 3 quarts of M.A. every week to a 10.000 gal pool. Is that normal, since its a new pool, and the plaster is very alkaline?

The other parameters are quite stable over the last 4 weeks:
Tot. Alk: 100 ppm
TDS: 3100
Chlorine: 3,0 ppm (with a SWG)

Thanks...

Hi, I'm a new pool owner (3 months). Until this week, the summer season had been relatively trouble-free. Throughout the day, I notice little black worms collecting over the bottom of the pool. I vacuum, and the next day, they're back. I live in a rural area in southern Ontario. Is this common during this time of year?

Hi everybody,

I am using PoolMath to figure out how much MA to add to lower pH and I am getting inconsistent results.

So I measured pH and it was 8.0, and I wanted to lower it to the bottom end of the ideal range, so 7.6. That screen is telling me to add 26oz to basically lower pH by 0.4. But when I go to "Effects of adding", and put in 26 oz, it tells me it will lower pH by only 0.2? It doesn't allow you to input the current TA to calculate how much to add on that screen however, but I am within the range listed at the bottom. What's going on here? Which number to trust? Isn't the same math behind both these screens?

Measuring pH again after adding the suggested MA amount tells me that I am somewhere in the middle between a 0.4 and 0.2 pH change, but I am wondering what's different in the calcs being done for both these screens.

Thanks!
Sam