I’ve been looking for any documentation on flow and pressure loss for the Hayward W3HP21405T and can’t find it. I can find it for the Raypak 8550, which is the other heat pump under consideration. Does Hayward publish this data? Thx

Hello,

Couple issues with opening pool this year:
1. The cover has been torn bad this past winter. Just wondering what my options are, a quick call to my nearby pool cover company quoted me at 6k just based on photos and measurement of it. I went to amazon saw this:
Not exactly matching the original cover shape, but it big enough to cover the pool entirely. See pics of the broken cover and the pool shape.

2. I'd like to change the sand in the filter as it didn't run as efficient last season. I've had a pool company did it for me about 8-10 years ago. It seems to be an easy diy project. Do I cut and redo the pipes, or can I save it all and just open the control valve up? (maybe have the wife hold it up while i move it out (twist the tank?) to replace the sand. ) Also, I'd appreciate links to suggest what kind of sand I need to purchase to replace it. Picture of the filter attached.

Thank you all as always.

I've been a follower of the TFP method for years, maintaining my pool with no real issues.....so far. Last week we got historic flooding and my backyard turned into one GIANT swimming pool. The flood took out my pump and dumped tons of runoff water/debris into the pool. I got the pump replaced on Saturday (4 days ago) and have manually vacuumed out all of the debris. However, after 4 days of continuous cleaning, including cleaning the filters daily, brushing the pool multiple times a day, running my Dolphin and Betta skimmer 24/7 my pool remains almost just as cloudy as it was before I got the pump replaced! I have been keeping the pool at shock levels of 13-15 FC as I currently have very low CYA, PH is a little high around 7.8-8 and Alk is in the 60-70 range.

My question is, should I look into using a flocculant to get the particles of fine sand/clay out of the water or just continue on with the daily brushing/filter cleaning? I've never had it take this long to clear up a pool before so I am just curious if I just stay the course, and it will work out?

Hi all, just wanted to ask a few questions while gearing up for the coming season. This is our 3rd year with this pool (came with current house). I’m still new to this and don’t know what I don’t know, so some of these questions may be kind of obvious.

1. Testing when opening last summer showed almost no salt or CYA in the water (had stable chemistry at the end of last season), which didn’t make sense as I thought those chemicals should stay around and only dilution from discharge to waste/refilling would really change those values. I had to add over 300 lbs of salt. Are there any possible reasons for this or is that within a normal range?
2. I've had a hard time maintaining pH, it seems to want to settle around 7.8 by itself but sometimes goes higher. I’ve seen various comments on what is acceptable. I was wondering if that was OK for a salt pool with a nearly always running pump, it didn’t seem to cause any issues with swimming.
3. Are you supposed to seal cracks in the surrounding pool deck? We got a new liner in 2023 and quickly several mini canyons started forming underneath. I know liners with sand bottoms are never real smooth, but these are so bad that people have tripped and it is almost impossible to get a vacuum or brush into many of them. The only thing I can figure is that ground water/runoff is getting under the liner and channeling out the sand. This pool's 30+ years old so there are many cracks in the concrete deck, many are unsealed, maybe water is getting in those cracks and running under the pool?
4. I have also learned that our sand filter may also be undersized, the installed S200 doesn’t seem like the recommended unit for ~28k gallons. Plus, our pool seems to consistently have a pretty high filtration demand due to all the dust and tree junk that falls in there. I am going to change the sand (suspect the prev. owner didn’t use proper pool sand & I have to replace the O-ring anyway), and didn’t know if I should use something other than the normal filter sand that might do a better job considering the demand. The reason I ask is that I have seen some sand alternatives say you can use less by weight, but not sure that means I'd be able to add more (not sure if it would cause flow issues, etc.)

Thanks!

My pool was uncovered this whole time. The filter was off until I started cleaning on April 1. I have the pool math app and was following it. I was doing the slam levels. But this whole time I couldn’t get it to slam levels.

I finally decided to do double what the slam recommendation is and I finally got it to that level today! But about three hours later and I’ve lost around 10ppm. Is it normal to lose that much so quickly? I have a pool robot bring at least twice a day. I’ve also brushed and gotten out tons of leaves. Pool vacuum no longer has leaves just dirt and some rust. I just got a robot skimmer today that I have running as well.

I used 3ozs of clarifier last night and no difference. It’s blue and cloudy and you can’t see the floor. Should I take a sample to the local pool store?

I have the Taylor test kit with the DPD powder chlorine test. I have a mix of replacement chemistry from TF test kits with no expiration dates, and some Taylor branded with expiration dates of 2022. My DPD powder has turned purple so I know that needs to be replaced, but what about all the other agents? Is there really a need to replace them all, or should I get reasonable results using what I have? I have seen the Taylor resource page for recognizing a compromised reagent, but all of mine that are supposed to be clear in color are still clear.

We are in process of extending out pool deck by 4' (concrete). There is a 1.5" PVC line, which runs horizontally from the existing slab (near the spa), then turns vertical and has 2 elbows at the top reversing the line to point towards the ground. I believe it is the air intake for the spa jets. I extended the horizontal section the required 4', and this will now go through the footer when they pour the new slab.

My question: Should this horizontal line be level? With the 4' horizontal extension, this has some play to it and is currently sagging down. I am unsure if it is sagging too low, not sure if there should be visible water in it, etc. Perhaps I am overthinking it.

My kids realized that if they cover the jets with their hands, the rest of the jets stop, and water comes out of that air vent.
In all honesty, I do not understand the physics of how air is getting into this setup to make the bubbles.

I’ve been through 3 mx8 over the years and have replaced parts in between. I also have a skimmer motion to keep the surface clean. My pool is screen enclosed so no large debris enters the water and it’s a 13 x 19 ft pool. Also my vacuum lives in the water, I never take it out.
My vac does what it needs but I’m tired of the constant replacement so is there something out there that does not require so much maintenance/replacement and also skim the water?

I updated my IntelliCenter to 3.002 and now it loses connection to the cloud one a day. I had to physically restart it to get it back online only to go offline in some short time. I had similar issue with 1.64 but much much less frequent. Maybe once a week. I recorded a video and sent it to Pentair. Not holding my breath that they will fix it. Also, my power link are on the same wall, one inside and one outside so the distance cannot be an issue. I had to revert back to the previous firmware and so far it’s staying connected.

How is it so difficult to fix? No logging of the disconnect reasons. These software dev seem very junior. How do you not record a reason for lost connection?????

Any advice? Should I switch to hard wired set up?

I'm thinking I might have an algae problem, but I wanted to run it by the folks here first. The whole situation has me a bit baffled. Here is a little backstory:

A couple of months ago, I drained and refilled some water to reduce my salt content and ended up with a CYA level below 30. Given the hot and sunny weather in my area, I wanted to bring CYA up to more like 60-70, so I put the pH at 7.6 and did an OCLT (no detectable FC loss), then raised CYA to 50. I repeated the pH and OCLT (no detectable FC loss), then raised CYA to 70.

(All FC tests were done with a TF-Pro Salt kit. In each case, I did a CC test; the result was always undetectable, < 0.5 ppm.)

Since then, weird things have been happening.

• With my SWG set to 20%, FC held steady at 5 ppm for a few days. I wanted it to be slightly higher, around 7-8 ppm.
• I raised the SWG to 25%; FC dropped to 4 ppm the next day.
• I raised the SWG to 50%; FC dropped to 3 ppm the next day.
• I raised the SWG to 75%; FC dropped to 1 ppm the next day.

Those results surprised me, since I have a brand new T-9 cell that's rated for a pool that's more than twice as large as mine.

Last night, I turned off the SWG and added a gallon of liquid chlorine (10%) to the pool, raising FC to 16. An OCLT showed a 7 ppm loss, meaning my FC went from 16 to 9 in less than 12 hours.

At this point, I'm thinking I must have an algae problem, and that a SLAM is the best way to proceed from here.

In case anyone is wondering, here are the other test numbers from a few days ago, using a TF-Pro Salt kit:

pH: 7.8
TA: 80
CH: 450
CYA: 70
Salt: Measured 3200 with Taylor test, reported as 3300 on controller

Also, the water is very clear; I see no visible signs of algae, but I understand that clear water does not necessarily mean there is no algae in my pool.

Hello! I will be buying an above ground pool from The Pool Factory and I have some questions with the products and set up. I will be doing a 24' round saltwater pool and through my research I see I should go with a Resin Composite wall as that is what is best with the saltwater. I have never had a pool before and this is all new to me.

Going through the customization options on the Pool Factory:
Is it worthwhile to upgrade the liner from a 20 gauge to a 25, 30, 35 or even 40 gauge?

The filter system. This I need the most help with. Cartridge, Sand or D.E. If it matters I live in North New Jersey and there will be no trees around in the area of the pool. I would prefer a filter system that is less maintenance and more dummy proof but also less expensive over time.

Same thoughts/preferences with the Saltwater Systems. I see a Drop In, Return Jet and Hard Plumbing.

Would I be better in buying all these products straight from Pool Factory or will local stores possibly have the filters and saltwater systems cheaper? Thanks for all the help, Much appreciated!

We are first-time pool owners and have a Jandy CV 460 filter cartridge.

We just had our pool serviced yesterday, and the technician informed us that the filter pressure gauge was broken and had been taped back on. The cartridge wasn’t generating any pressure on the gauge. He mentioned that the gauge wasn’t facing the correct direction and appeared to have been taped back on by the previous owner. When he attempted to twist it into the correct position, the gauge broke off from the handle.

We’re a bit confused, as we had the pool inspected prior to closing and assumed a broken pressure gauge would have been an obvious issue. We’re unsure how to proceed from here.

Additionally, we were told that we just need to turn on the backwash valve at the bottom of the cartridge to drain excess pool water. Is it really that simple? When I tried to research it online, it seemed like there were more steps involved.

I'm about to pull the trigger on an 18' AGP. It comes with one skimmer and one return.

I want to have a separate pump for the solar panels and another for the filter.

My reasoning:

I am not cooling the pool when it's shady but it still need filtering or the sun has gone down.

My solar lines are really long so if I use the filter pump it reduces the flow quite a bit.

I tried this with my old intex and I found that when only one was on it would move water the wrong directions.

Does any one have a diagram on how to pipe this up with 1.5" PVC?

I don't want to cut extra holes in the pool for separate sends and returns.

My old Polaris 360 can’t keep up with the oak tree tassels and yellow pollen that are taking over the pool. I decided to try an inexpensive vacuum head pool floor cleaner. The one I bought at WM came with a hose and I also bought a skimmer plate. I put everything together but wondered if I need to remove the Polaris 360 from the pressure outlet or plug that outlet?

Has anyone used, or heard of someone using, Loctite PC 9410 Mfr # 235573 for repairing cracks and holes in a gunite shell?

The product specs infer it's an excellent concrete repair material in terms of strength, adhesion and durability. I haven't found any mention of its use to repair gunite in a chlorine based pool, nor how well plaster would bond to it. I am awaiting a reply to an inquiry I've made to the manufacture's support team.

I can't seem to find a pressure drop curve for this unit. Has anyone seen one that you could post?

David

New pool owners - we bought the house in September 2024 and pump was working fine (past homeowners had no issues). the motor is Century Centurion 1HP & I think was manufactured 12/2014. We closed the pool in November (hired someone to cover it and he converted it to salt. We opened the pool last week and now the pump is leaking (slowly). The motor has some rust on top but not making any noise - but he Hayward sand filter is gurgling (that stops after we backwash). We are considering replacing the pump to variable speed for $2700 but would like to have less expense right now so we are considering replacing just the motor. Would that make sense? If we replace the pump what do we need to consider re: the HP or other things? Thank you!

Aloha,
I am just moving into my new home and trying to get a grip on my pool. I used to keep my mom's pool when I was a teen and apparently a lot has changed since those days.

My first task is to try to understand how to best set up a schedule on my SunTouch controller. Is there a guide for best practices?

Next I would like to understand how and when to use all of the chemicals the previous owner left behind. Many look like they have been in the garage for some time, I'm worried they might not be very effective, but I would rather try to use them up then just discard them. Is there any potential harm there?

I have not yet ordered my test kit. I have strips and a very basic PH/C reagent test kit that was left behind. I'd like to use these up before purchasing new.

I look forward to engaging in this community as I learn more about my pool and keeping it healthy. Cheers!

mknauss said:

Welcome to the forum.
I would not use any form of natural stone in or near the water such that it can get wet consistently.
Not only degradation, but calcium buildup and efflorescence is a concern.

Click to expand...

@mknauss, I have an elevated spa above a pool. The majority of the spillover is hard tile but I've noticed that the natural stone paced on either side (that also wraps around the spa's exterior) is typically wet/damp, no doubt due to water contact 24/7.

Would you recommend I use a penetrating sealant to help protect this stone? If so, I could secure the spillover long enough to enable the stone to dry out, assess any issues (new pool started up 5 weeks ago...), correct if needed, seal, then start back up.

We saw some other model pools before moving forward with PB. This 'style' was used throughout. Thinking they wouldn't do it if it was a common failure point...but probably doesn't become an issue until after their warranty expires. So, ounce of prevention (sealing) vs a pound of cure? Or leave it be?

My fiberglass manufacturer recommends 80-120 calcium hardness. My heater and salt cell manufacturer recommend 200-400 calcium hardness. I have an 11,000 saltwater fiberglass pool. What is a girl to do?!

I started getting low flow in my spa jets, upon inspection I found these pieces logged in the jet housings. I have also heard a couple times what sounded like pieces racing through the plumbing hitting corners and parts (not a pleasant sound at all). I replaced the check valve a year ago when I first inherited the pool/spa and it is still intact. I have not taken the DE filter apart this year to clean yet - but it's the only thing I can think of. Really just looking to see if someone recognizes that pieces.

Hi all,

Previous non-SWG pool experience but this will be my first time with a SWG. We're due to add salt next weekend as we pass the 28-day curing mark.

While reading up in the FAQs and forums, noticed a small number of posts discussing what was believed to be SWG or pipe explosions attributed to chlorine and/or hydrogen gas buildup. I'm using a Hayward OmniLogic system with a TCELLS340. While I don't see an interlock option for the SWG and main pump, I'd like to believe the automation software won't energize SWG without pump on (and flow switch closed). Accurate?

Also, since the concern seems to be a buildup or collection of combustible gasses in the system, wondering if I need to remove my chlorine tablet feeder. I notice that it's after the flow switch and SWG, so--if gases can buildup and this reportedly can cause an explosion if an ignition source occurs--then would the tablet feeder be ideally positioned to collect and build those gases up over time? I can turn off the water flow but I believe this simply takes away water from flowing over the tabs. Don't know if it would disconnect the stack from the flow below it. Don't think it does.

Should I remove the stack feeder?

We have a Pentair Prowler® 920 for about a year now. I HATE IT. We have had multiple issues with it. I find it upside down, only runs for 2 minutes, only 1/4 full with leaves in the pool, eats its own cord. I spent too much for it from a pool builder that we decided not to do our renovation on our pool. Any suggestions. We have a 17,000 gal pool with some steps and benches. More of a kidney style. Please let me know if anyone has used any of the robotic cleaners as they look too good to be true.

Hi, I’m so glad I found this forum!! We have a gunite pool that was built in 2006, refreshed/resurfaced in ~2013, and we bought it in 2020. We noticed a few tiles starting to pop off at the water line. When I went to remove them the problem area was bigger than we originally thought and some pieces of concrete came off with the tiles. The pool doesn’t appear to be leaking. I’ve revealed a ~7’ long crack at the water line. I was going to try to repair it myself (I’ve done interior tile work), and I bought some Pool Patch products, but some research has me worried that this might be structural and require an expert. What do y’all think? Thanks so much!!

It’s been a while since I posted, I really appreciate all the help I receive here. My T15 cell is apparently done for. I’m going to go have it checked, but it was a replacement under warranty a few years ago, so I’m sure it’s toast reading low salt and not performing even after I cleaned it. I’m curious what are some decent replacements? I see there are Pureline, calimar and more. Can anybody here give me some recommendations what’s good and as importantly what to stay away from? Thank you

When is the earliest you ever opened up your pool? The Weathers starting to get nice and we re did our pool and added an Avia gas 404,000 BTU heater and can’t wait to get in it lol

Just wanted to hear some thoughts!

Pool days are almost upon us!

Hi all, new to the forum, not to pools, but still learning. Just had a new pool installed at a home we bought last summer and the builder has been less than supportive since they got their final check, so I am trying to work out some issues on my own. Hoping to learn more here.

Hi y'all. First time posting here.

For most of my life, I've maintained my own pool. Mainly used stabilized pucks, a little acid once in a while, bag of non chlorine shock once a week, and went on my way fat, dumb, and happy. Never bother much with CYA, calcium or alkalinity and pool was always clear and didn't mess with it more than once a week.

Two years ago moved back to Texas and built a new house and pool in the Dallas area. For two years, I've been using Pinch a Penny to maintain my pool since I travel for work almost every week. I also have a stand alone Bullfrog spa. I maintained that myself because the @ease cartridges need to be changed only every three weeks.

Recently got frustrated with Pinch a Penny and got rid of them. They didn't clean the cartridge in more than 14 months, haven't been brushing the pool, and the chemicals were all out of whack when I tested them. The monthly cost didn't justify the seven minutes a week they were here.

I've been following this forum for several weeks now and decided to use the TFP method to maintain the pool and spa.

The first thing I did was to drain about 40% of the water from the pool. The CYA 85 and I wanted to get it down in the 40 - 50 range.

I'm testing the Ph every day and it is constantly above 8.2. I use pool math to add MA but it returns back above 8.2 the next day.

I also noticed that the chlorine isn't holding. I raise it to around 5 ppm and the next day it is below 1.

So, here are the current readings from my TF-Pro test kit:

FC: 0.5
CC: 0.0
TA: 80-90
Ph: 8.5
CH: 150
CYA: 50

Last night I added non chlorine shock to bring the CC down from 1.0 to 0. (I know, next time SLAM instead of this stuff.)

Also added 8 lbs Calcium Hardness yesterday to start bring the CH up. Goal is around 300-350.
I've ordered Boric Acid but it hasn't arrived yet.


Here are my questions:

1. What is causing Ph to be so high day after day? I've been putting MA in every day. Could it be from plaster being only 2 years old? It hasn't rained, there is no dirt in the pool, no new water added after the initial drain and fill. I also turned off the water features to reduce the aeration.
2. I see that TA could be brought down to around 60. It seems like the TA isn't moving too much after I put in MA. Not sure if that is because the MA is old (bought last season) or if something is causing it to increase. Should I be focused more on TA now rather than Ph?
3. I understand that chlorine is going to be reduced by the sun. The CYA is now low but 5 ppm in one day seems like a lot. With the TFP method, do I need to add liquid chlorine every day?
4. I still travel all the time so adding liquid chlorine every day is not going to work. Is installing a SWG the only way to go, or dare I say use pucks and drain pool when CYA gets too high?
5. I'm about to go on a ten day trip. I'm going to put a puck or two in the chlorinator to maintain the chlorine while I'm gone. That should bring the CYA up to around 54. Is there any kind of slow release chlorine that won't increase the CYA?

Thanks for any guidance!

Hello all,

I have a 24’ round 54” deep saltwater 8000 from pool factory we buried a little over half way. The pump/sand filter combo is the Hayward S230T set up with a 2 speed pump. The inlet of the pump is roughly 10-12” below the water level. Sometimes the pump basket area looks to lose water. It doesn’t always stay completely full while running either. I installed a ball valve and a tee where the gauge goes on the multiport valve to allow bleeding of air in the system but that never seems to let the air out the pump basket area. Due to the water level being closer to the pump inlet than if the pool were not buried, should I look at moving to an inground pump that will self prime? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also all my pvc piping is 1.5” and never seen a leak so not sure if it could be that contributing to the loss of water in the pump basket.

SNAKE!