Opinions on this Doheny's filter setup

I was thinking of buying this:
Doheny's Pool Pro Deluxe Cartridge Filter, 150 sq ft System with 1 HP Pump

And then this:
Doheny's Above Ground 2-Speed Pool Pump, 115V, 1.5 HP

Would come to just under $800. Then I'd have a filter system with a 2-speed pump and an extra 1-speed pump to keep as a spare.

Alternatively, I was going to just get a filter and the 2-speed pump. Wouldn't come with a base plate, but maybe that's not worth spending extra to get?

What do you think?

Long-lasting SWG available anywhere ?

I have had disappointing results with Pentair SWG's - I have gone through two IC40's and one IC60 in the space of under 6 years with my 18,000 gal pool. Each IC40 lasted 2 years, so I upsized to a 60. It lasted 1.5 years.

My water has a low calcium content, so there never was a problem with excessive build-up within the SWG's.

Are there any other brands available that are longer-lasting ? I don't mind paying more for reliability. What about SWG's designed for larger / public pools ?

Pool & Spa Build - DFW - North Richland Hills


Just creating a quick thread for our new pool build. We moved in our new house last year and initially were going to put the pool in before COVID hit. Due to the uncertainty of everything we pumped the brakes on that project. Fast forward a year later and things have normalized somewhat we've decided to get back on the pool building bandwagon (w/ a completely different design than we previously decided on) and we're currently under contract waiting for permits.

We did change our PebbleTec choice from Blue Surf to Aqua Blue...I'm hoping this was the right choice!! Also removed bar stools that we originally had in the pool due to not wanting to fight with the robot trying to clean it.

I also do have a concern w/ the skimmer on the tanning ledge, anyone think this would cause an issue?

Here's a drawing and a few renderings to hold us over while we wait for permits to come back and HOA approval so we can get this thing dug. (Late June/Early July)


Banko 5.17.21_004.jpg
Banko 5.17.21_005.jpg
Banko 5.17.21_003.jpg
Banko 5.17.21_002.jpg


Plaster discoloration

Our pool is about a year old now and it has several spots that are discolored. I had the water tested and it was way low in calcium and ph was off also. I was using home test strips and according to the local pool store those are unreliable. I got the pool balanced but the discoloration remains. Any idea what I am dealing with and how to remedy?? Pics are attached. Thanks32C7808B-88B5-44E1-86D3-AC78825ABB1C.jpeg385BF4B4-9643-472B-9DDC-343F4A9A2A10.jpeg9228ED51-76B1-4BA6-9DA0-0C66AEDEAB44.jpeg

New pool...now what?

Greetings from Panama City, Florida.

Retired last year after 40 years in the Air Force (28 Active Duty +12 as DoD Civilian Strategic Planner) and finally have the time to build and enjoy a pool in retirement. The last pool we had was an above ground pool years ago when the kids were small and frankly, that was a PIA to maintain. Now we have a nice inground gunite pool, with spa and waterfall and tropical landscape for us and the grandkids. The pool is surrounded by paver decking, covered patio, and outdoor kitchen (in progress) protected by a screen enclosure to minimize leaves and our state bird---the mosquito. The pool is setup for salt and ozone to minimize maintenance. But the last thing the pool builder gave me was a warning that my lifetime Pebble Sheen plaster warranty depends on my ability to document monthly chemical testing and report it annually, for the rest of my life. Oh swell! So I'm looking to get smart on water chemistry and minimize the Rear pain of pool maintenance. Thanks!

Iron Mike

Moving from Dolphin Triton PS robot to Polaris 380/3900 plus booster pump? or not.)

Ive been fighting my robot for a while that took a dump. Ive got a Dolphin Trinton PS, the orange color purchased in 2016 that started doing what most do, I turn on > goes forward a few feet > backs up a few feet> then stops. Ive seen the websites on fixing this issue, I went as far as opening up the unit, pulling out the motors and checking the bearings, taking the electric motors apart, all seemed ok all though when I opened up the one larger motors that is used for the impeller it had a bunch of carbon from the brushes but I cleaned that out thinking all fixed. Then I would then run the robot while taken apart and would still end up stopping. figured it was one of the circuit boards which there are four, two in the robot and two in the power supply. I am pretty good at tearing apart and building stuff, but am not an electronics person.

Big question, do I spend the money and buy another robot or go back to the mechanical advantage/non-electronic style (easy to repair) and go with booster pump (PB4-60 or PB4SQ) and either the Polaris 380 or 3900? Prices are equivalent (kind of) but my issues are with the robot, if it goes bad and ends up out of warranty, there are so many potential areas of problems (mechanical, electrical) that I may not be able to fix, but with the pressure side cleaner, its all mechanical. No matter what issue arises, I should be able to fix and purchase parts to repair.

Love to hear opinions either way. If you feel I should go the robot cleaner side, please give me some recommendations as to brands and models.



Jandy Lights DIY

Moved from HERE

I just came across this very interesting thread and want to share my experience. I purchased 8 of the Jandy Pro lights for my pool as owner builder approximately 2 1/2 years ago (3 x 30W, 1 x 20W, and 4 x 9W). The cost was over $2600. Within one year 5 had failed, that number is now 7. Before the first year was up I contacted Jandy and they refused to cover under the warranty since, as owner builder, I did not use a pool company to install them. I am finally tired of only having white and green as the two colors that I can choose for a consistent color in the pool. I lowered the pool water level and removed the cartridge from the 20W light and set about to analyze on the bench. I am a retired electronics engineer by profession so this is not rocket science for me. There was no water intrusion so the assembly was in good condition. The LED PCB board contains two white, one red, one green and one blue LED. The PCB board has space for additional white, red, green and blue LEDs which I assume are used for the 30W units. Indeed on the bench the blue LED was not working. Swapping the blue and red LED wires confirmed the blue driver IC on the circuit board was OK and indeed the blue LED had failed. With a microscope I was able to read the LED driver IC part number (AL8806) and a current setting resistor value of 0.18 ohms. From the AL8806 spec sheet it is then easy to calculate the actual LED current setting and hence wattage of the assembly since white, red, green, and blue LEDS have specific turn on voltages at a given current. Power is then calculated as the product of Voltage x Current. Low and behold, the actual maximum wattage by design (if all LEDS are turned on) of the Jandy PRO 20W is 8.5W. I doubt it is even that since I don’t believe there is a color choice that turns all LEDs on at the same time. I am not aware of any RMS versus music power that applies to a DC device that warrants the claim of a 20W device that is actually designed as 8.5W. If anyone out there can enlighten me that would be great? Since this is already long, I will post what I am doing to fix and improve my lights in another post so stay tuned.
  • Like
Reactions: panamax53

Hello from West Virginia!

I'm so happy I happened upon this sight. We're new above ground pool owners. So much to learn! Before we could close the pool for the season we developed an algae problem. I purchased some hth algae guard and decided to google it for review before I used it. That's how I found this sight. And didn't use the algae guard. lol. I'm doing the S-L-A-M approach and so far so good. I'm hopeful to have the pool ready to close by the weekend. Thanks again for this great site full of great information!

Closing - SLAM Level with Autocover?

Hi all - I asked a similar question before but want to get more clarification. I am using my auto cover as my winter cover - should I still bring the FC up to full SLAM level when closing? Reason I ask is I know a lot of people drain some water after doing this, I won't be draining any water as I need it to support the cover, so my FC won't drop quite as much since I won't be draining anything. Just wondering if I should still use the same recommendation of bringing to SLAM level 2-3 days before closing or bring it to a different level, like 1/2 of SLAM.

Thanks for the help!

New Pool Need Guidance with chemicals

Hello All, been reading these forums for years finally had the pool installed few months ago. Equipment finally got turned on 2 weeks ago. PB added 2 gallons of 12% choline few weeks ago by mistake (they came to open by my neighbors pool but some miscommunication and thought they were opening my pool, then they realized wrong house), they added 10 bags of 40lb salt last week. i have been running my pump on Medium speed for about 8 hrs a day and my pentair warrior has been running for weeks . trying to keep the pool clean from patio work that's being done. Yesterday I opened my TF-pro and did test on water for first time. below are results.

FC - .05
CC- .05
CH- 50
TA - 100
CYA -- little confused because they black dot on bottom never went away I poured the whole bottle.
PH - 8.2
CL -0

Today I finally noticed when i ran the pump SWG says chlorinating. Please see attached pic. I want to take control of the pool i am assuming I need to test again soon and add my results to POOL MATH. SWG IS SET TO 50%.
Another thing that bugging me is my app shows pool temp 5-6 degree from my floating thermometer in pool. not sure why? for instance right now floating says 58 and app 67 . I can tell floating looks more accurate . our current weather is around 58.


  • CL.png
    28.3 KB · Views: 28

Hayward SwimPure Plus Reading Zero Salt

I've read some other threads about this, but I'm not seeing an answer. Our Hayward SwimPure Plus began reading salt levels of only 400, then 200, then zero. Manually checking the salt it is around 3400. We checked the SWG which is 6 months old and it definitely needed cleaning. It is now all clean, but same thing was happening. We contacted a local service and they said motherboard needed replacing. They did replace it (it was fairly corroded inside) and it worked properly for the rest of the day with salt reading 2800. When we turned it on the next day it was 200, then 100 then 0. Instant reading is 0 as well. The person who replaced the motherboard said call Hayward. They are useless. Can anyone help?

Re-Plastering costs

I have received a quote for replastering a 400 sf, ~12,000 gal IG gunite pool. These numbers are off the contract. I was quoted $9,500 for white plaster and around $19,000 for a quartz finish. These numbers seem extremely high to me. This is only my first quote. My question would be are these numbers really reasonable?

I'd appreciate any and all input.


1st Time Pool Owner, Plumbing & Closing

Hi everyone! First time pool owner here. We purchased a new home a year ago and this was our first year having a pool. It is a 16x36 inground. It has the original liner which will be getting replaced next spring, but I was hoping to get a little assistance with the plumbing part of it. Where each line goes, ins, outs, and process for blowing out the lines to close the pool before the often harsh Illinois winter.

It has a sand filter with a multiport valve and a heater hooked up to it, but we are going to remove the heater in the spring. It is old and not used because we are on propane. It is a 1 skimmer system with 4 wall jets. The skimmer has 1 run plugged as shown in the photos.

Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated.


  • 20211017_165631.jpg
    732.1 KB · Views: 5
  • 20211017_165720.jpg
    243.2 KB · Views: 5
  • 20211017_165830.jpg
    559.7 KB · Views: 5

Hurry up and wait! (Katy, TX)

Never had a pool before but both my grandparents did growing up and thus began the "I want a pool" life goal. Moved south many years ago and now this year is the year!

I've been snooping on this site for a couple years now and you've convinced me that salt water and a robot are the way to go. Also as part of this project I'm planning on getting the existing back porch extended across the full width of the house. The western sun is brutal during the 8-month summers we have, and that should help increase the utility of the backyard.

I am currently iffy on whether to do a spa. I agree that the standalone kinds are superior in virtually every way, but I admit that I like the idea and aesthetics of the integrated kind. The kids claim they'll use it all the time, but you know how kids' promises go...

So at this point, I've had 2 PB appointments this past week and 2 more scheduled next week. The first design/quote came in from PB #1 and I'd like to get your thoughts. I've already asked for an itemized quote with part numbers, and intend to sub out the chlorinator for a SWG and nix the auto pool cleaner. So I'll post that once I get it.

PB #1: "...The pool is 12x30, has a sun deck, a raised spa, travertine coping and spray deck decking with drains to edge of deck. The pool is equipped with our Total Hayward package including Phone accessible Hayward remote control, Hayward led lighting, Hayward energy efficient variable speed pump, Hayward 525 Sq. Ft cartridge filter, Hayward blower, Hayward chlorinator, Automatic pool cleaner, The Hayward 400000 btu heater and everything you need to care for your pool . Total price for the pool including final clean up and grading is $50500.00.

The price for the Patio extension built as close as possible to match house with you supplying the bricks and 2 ceiling fans is $22000.00,..."

I'll post the other quotes/designs as they come in.

Love to get y'alls thoughts!


  • PB1-1.jpg
    404.2 KB · Views: 339
  • PB1-2.jpg
    365.9 KB · Views: 341
  • PB1-3.jpg
    433.8 KB · Views: 359
  • PB1-4.jpg
    349.1 KB · Views: 357

Planning phase, have some questions about AGP install process

I'm planning to install a Saltwater 8000 (or LX) from Pool Factory in the Spring. I have resigned myself to doing it myself because I can't find anyone to do it for me. Well, I got a quote from a Doughboy dealer but they wanted 13K total for the most basic Doughboy non-saltwater pool installed, excluding excavation. For that price I can buy an extra liner or two, or heck, an extra pool or two, in case I screw it up badly.

First -- is there a particular kind of contractor that is the best choice for excavation? My lot is pretty level, I could just use a tiller and a shovel to do a surface install, but I'd like to sink the pool 24 inches into the ground. Maybe a foundation excavator? I assume I should have a 23 foot hole for a 21 foot pool.

Second -- when leveling the pool, is it most critical that the paver stones the legs will be on are level, versus the rest of the ground? It seems like making sure the pavers are level and the rails have support under them is 99% of what's important, and the rest of the ground inside the pool is less important (not unimportant, mind you, but not quite as critical). Have I got this right?

Third -- how much of a deep spot in the middle is reasonable with a 21 foot pool? Can I get 60 inches (total) out of it? More? I assume I need an overlap expandable liner if I want to dish out the middle more than a couple inches. I'd like enough so that as a six foot tall adult I don't feel like I'm in a kiddie pool.

Fourth -- let's just say for a second that I f*ck up the leveling, I know I can't backfill dirt, but can a screw up like that be fixed by filling with some kind of crushed rock and then tamping it down? I'm going to try hard not to screw this up, but I like to know what I'm up against.

Fifth -- in the grand scheme of things, how hard of an install is this? If I get someone else to do most of the leveling with a machine, and I have a few extra hands to help put things together, is this reasonably a DIY job? I have done some home renovation, but never anything like a pool.

Sixth -- is it reasonable to run pipes underground and put all the equipment next to my air conditioner on the side of my garage? Probably be 20 feet of pipe. Sure would make it quieter, and easier to plumb the gas and electric since the meters for both are on the same wall 40 feet away.

Seventh -- would it be a good idea to try and put a main drain in? This seems hard to do in the first place, and especially difficult if I want to dish out the middle of the pool. Will it be fine if I don't have such a thing? Should I put in a return line on the other side of the pool? Is that even advisable with a saltwater pool with only one stainless panel?

Thanks for your help! I really want to make sure I have a good plan going into this so I don't spend too much time trying to work around my misconceptions. And I want to make my equipment purchase soon so I don't get caught up in the summer rush next year. I'm not kidding about buying an extra liner, too, just because it's not paranoia if they really are out to get you....


New Pool Owner - Constantly High PH

Hello Fellow Members,

I have followed up TFP from last couple of weeks but this is my 1st post, so excuse my minimal knowledge to pool maintenance but I am learning slowly.

Now the problem I am having is that my PH constantly reads close to 8 even if I calculate acid and add it everyday it keeps rising or at that higher level. Now I know that new pool will consume more acid but I believe it's asking too much acid.

In addition, I am using clear choice kit as that's the only good one available in Australia, my results are as follows:

FC = 3.5
CC = 0.5
PH = 7.8 or close to 8 mostly
TA = 125
CH = 225
CYA = 45

The pool was started 2 weeks ago, pump only and I do manual chlorine additional everyday. No chemicals added except HCL and CYA once.

Is it my low CH level that is not letting my PH settle?

The water other looks great and pool is clear.

I look forward to expert inputs.


Pentair Mastertemp 400 - Not igniting No errors

I have a Mastertemp 400 that is not igniting. At startup the blower does not turn on. No errors on LED Panel or on board. No lights on ICM.

I direct wired the blower to ICM and the blower does power up, but still no ignition.

The article I was following stated if blower works with direct wiring, then the issues is either bad ICM or bad control board. Anyone know how I can test to figure out if my problem is the ICM or the Control board?

Magnesium, staining and calcium

Been managing my pool succesfully since I inherited it 6 months ago.
Fibreglass, 50,000L, SWG salt water with sand filter.

Last weekend I did my monthly tests and got these results:
Free chlorine: 1.5
Combined chlorine: 0
pH: 7.5
Total alkalinity: 60
Calcium hardness: 225
CYA: 100
Salt: 4700
Temp: 15 degrees

I went down to the hardware store and got 6 litres (200 fl oz) of 4% bleach, 7kg (15.5lb) of calcium chloride, 100g (0.2lb) of soda ash and 12kg (26.5lb) of magnesium salt; as per the Pool Math app recommendations for the above levels.
I essentially threw it all in at the same time, dissolving in a bucket where necessary. The pool went a bit green which is normal for when you use magnesium for the first time (I wanted to try it out). Next day it was back to clear.

Fast forward 3 days and I have brown staining at the bottom of my pool, see photos below. The dark specs in the photos is organic matter and the darker blue on the edge step is the old colour of the pool as the light blue repaint was not a great job.

I found this site that says that Mg can oxidise when it comes in contact with chlorine and pH increases, both of which I did just before I added the Mg salt. It suggests that iron is the cause of brown but I don't know where I would have got excess iron from. Fiberglass Swimming Pool Staining Problem and Solutions
We've also had a bit of rain lately.

Assuming I do have heavy metal staining, how do I fix it please? It won't scrub off. Thanks!

I just did some tests today...
Free chlorine: 7
pH: 7.8
CYA: 75
I tried doing calcium hardness test but it kept failing and turning purple which the kit says it will do if there are too many metal ions in the water.



Marks in Stonescapes normal?

Hi all!
I have a new pool with stonescapes mini pebble plaster. Only a month old. I thought the plaster looked great until I turned on the lights in the pool on Sunday and noticed there is a small area where you can see marks and two small pits on the sunshelf. You can't see it during the day. Is this normal? Or something I should bring up as they are working on the punch list. I do know they left plastic on the plaster for a couple of days before they came back and acid washed due to rain. It might be the plastic that was moving around with the wind. Unsure about the two pits, we do get raccoons. Any thoughts are appreciated!


  • Screenshot_20211018-202106_Gallery.jpg
    312.4 KB · Views: 27
  • Screenshot_20211018-202051_Gallery.jpg
    264.1 KB · Views: 27

AquaBrite Eco Finish remodel: $32,000?

We’re remodeling our 50x15’ 28k gallon pool in Sonoma county, northern CA. The plaster is discolored but otherwise in good shape, making it a good candidate to resurface with AquaBrite Eco Finish. (Liked the smooth surface and easy startup promise.)

Our PB finally got the quote back (it took a few weeks): an additional $32,000 (over the originally budgeted new plaster). Is this in line with what you’ve seen? I’ve read all the threads on Eco Finish here and saw limited pricing info, but was surprised.