Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amps

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Is there a K1 relay trouble shooting guide out there? I keep getting the reading of +40.62V 10.04A 1900PPM and then it shuts off because of the high amp error. I placed my old cell inline so I can run my pump. Then I leave my good cell plugged in and I put it in a 5 gallon bucket with the perfect amount of salt, I have also used just plain tap water. But I keep getting this error. I have also soldered the K1 relay. My cell is good, the pool store has tested it.
 
choder said:
Is there a K1 relay trouble shooting guide out there? I keep getting the reading of +40.62V 10.04A 1900PPM and then it shuts off because of the high amp error. I placed my old cell inline so I can run my pump. Then I leave my good cell plugged in and I put it in a 5 gallon bucket with the perfect amount of salt, I have also used just plain tap water. But I keep getting this error. I have also soldered the K1 relay. My cell is good, the pool store has tested it.
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I know you are having this issue for quite some time now and still trying to find the fix. Not everyone here has the same mainboard as you do and the pics posted in this thread looks different from each other. So we really don't have a clue which mainboard you have to begin with.

I don't trust my troubleshooting skills over the internet but let's see if others or myself can give you a detailed walkthrough.

First, take pics of your mainboard, focus on the K1 printed circuit side of the board.
Looking at those pics posted here, the K1 solder pads are not double sided and aren't large either compared to that of the GLX-PCB-RITE Thermistor lands. So a 30 watts soldering iron suffice for a clean solder. Do you have one? Include a 60/40% rosin core (solder lead) if you do not have yet!
A multimeter is a must have when troubleshooting electrical or electronic circuits, do you have one? Can you at least post the model # to better assist you?
And no offense, please post your response to all of the above in your own thread here and let's take it from there, onward.

TIA...meadow
 
sneffels said:
Where do we send the money?
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Become a TFP Supporter! (link below). That was everyone will continue fro shared experiences like this while helping to keep the servers up to-date. Glad it worked for you. Welcome to TFP! :wave:
 
I have read though all 6 pages of this thread...lots of great info. I just put a brand new T-15 cell in and am getting the High Salt/Amps problem. I have not pulled my main panel yet to check behind the K1 but seems from reading this thread...if the K1 was the problem, it would read 0 amps. Mine reads 40.62V and 10.05A with 2300 PPM salt. Is there a way I can test the cell to make sure it is not bad?
 
DJConn said:
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

PROBLEM RESOLVED!

The issue was caused by a broken/weak solder point on the K1 relay. I learned from some other discussion boards that this is common problem with the Aqua Logic/Hayward boards. The K1 relay did not need to be replaced. It only needed to be re-soldered. I will attempt to attach a picture. To check if this might be your problem, unscrew the mother board and turn it over, if there is black smoke/burn marks at the K1 relay solder point, this is likely your problem. It was an easy soldering job to heat up the soldering joint and add a little solder. Very simple and it saved me $600+ to replace the mother board.

I am shocked at how common this problem is but did not find any info on this board, so am passing it along. I also learned a couple other things from the other boards. 1st: high amps can "blow" the solder joint and that high amps are most often caused by salt levels being too high. For me, it was my practice to add salt directly to the skimmer boxes. This would certainly cause an extremely high salinity level as the salt was being dissolved and pulled through the system. In the future, I will turn off my turbocell before adding salt. 2nd: the motherboard has a 20 amp fuse on it. Unfortunately it seems the Amp limit on the relay is 20 amps too. It has been strongly recommended to replace the 20 amp fuse with a 15 Amp fuse to thus protect the relay and the K1 solder point. I intend to do this tomorrow.

I hope others find this info useful.
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How did you fixed ? Just add soldering?
 

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DJConn said:
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

PROBLEM RESOLVED!

The issue was caused by a broken/weak solder point on the K1 relay. I learned from some other discussion boards that this is common problem with the Aqua Logic/Hayward boards. The K1 relay did not need to be replaced. It only needed to be re-soldered. I will attempt to attach a picture. To check if this might be your problem, unscrew the mother board and turn it over, if there is black smoke/burn marks at the K1 relay solder point, this is likely your problem. It was an easy soldering job to heat up the soldering joint and add a little solder. Very simple and it saved me $600+ to replace the mother board.

I am shocked at how common this problem is but did not find any info on this board, so am passing it along. I also learned a couple other things from the other boards. 1st: high amps can "blow" the solder joint and that high amps are most often caused by salt levels being too high. For me, it was my practice to add salt directly to the skimmer boxes. This would certainly cause an extremely high salinity level as the salt was being dissolved and pulled through the system. In the future, I will turn off my turbocell before adding salt. 2nd: the motherboard has a 20 amp fuse on it. Unfortunately it seems the Amp limit on the relay is 20 amps too. It has been strongly recommended to replace the 20 amp fuse with a 15 Amp fuse to thus protect the relay and the K1 solder point. I intend to do this tomorrow.

I hope others find this info useful.
Click to expand...
Well, 8 years after the original posting of this fix and it's still saving people a lot of money. Exact same symptoms, exact same issue, exact same fix.

DJ - You really need to start a donation site or something. I would throw you $20 in a heartbeat for this fix... or at least a $20 gift card to BevMo or Total Wine for some suds.

Thanks again.
EG
 
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DJConn said:
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp

PROBLEM RESOLVED!

The issue was caused by a broken/weak solder point on the K1 relay. I learned from some other discussion boards that this is common problem with the Aqua Logic/Hayward boards. The K1 relay did not need to be replaced. It only needed to be re-soldered. I will attempt to attach a picture. To check if this might be your problem, unscrew the mother board and turn it over, if there is black smoke/burn marks at the K1 relay solder point, this is likely your problem. It was an easy soldering job to heat up the soldering joint and add a little solder. Very simple and it saved me $600+ to replace the mother board.

I am shocked at how common this problem is but did not find any info on this board, so am passing it along. I also learned a couple other things from the other boards. 1st: high amps can "blow" the solder joint and that high amps are most often caused by salt levels being too high. For me, it was my practice to add salt directly to the skimmer boxes. This would certainly cause an extremely high salinity level as the salt was being dissolved and pulled through the system. In the future, I will turn off my turbocell before adding salt. 2nd: the motherboard has a 20 amp fuse on it. Unfortunately it seems the Amp limit on the relay is 20 amps too. It has been strongly recommended to replace the 20 amp fuse with a 15 Amp fuse to thus protect the relay and the K1 solder point. I intend to do this tomorrow.

I hope others find this info useful.
Click to expand...


This fixed my error. Thanks for the help.
 
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It was the K1 relay solder joint for me as well! Still helping after all these years... Thanks Guys!

Also, if anyone on this thread has upgraded and doesn't need the controller or remote (working or not) please PM me. I'm looking to part out an LCD. Can likely be any of the AQL-XX-XX versions. Here is a link.

Repair AQL-TB-RF-PS-8 Remote LCD Screen or Buy Used

Still trying to get all the problems fixed from the prior owner (Hacks!). I think their kids knocked the remote AQL-TB-RF-PS-8 on the ground and the the LCD screen is cracked. Remote still functions but would be nice if I can read the screen. Anyone got a spare lying around? I may attempt to...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
My readings are +24.92V ; +8.90A ; 78 degrees F ; 5200 ppm
I have re-soldered the blown solder joint 3 times. Am I doing something wrong. The mother board was not perfectly level but pretty close. Using the salt test strips, the water tests about 2500 ppm. Should I try to re-solder again and make sure the mother board is level?
 

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