I hit the Reset Cell Maintenance Timer when I replaced the cell over a month ago...and the pool runs about 3 hours every day so it seems to me the cell isn't running at all? When I press the Reverse Polarity button I never get an instant salt reading other than zero. I've tried hitting that and then the Restart Average Salt but nothing happens to Instant Salt, it always reads 0
Zero Current / No Chlorine
- Thread starter smwalkley
- Start date
I have no idea. I'm renting and my landlord bailed on the paid pool service (pretty sure they weren't doing anything anyway) so I'm trying to help him out so my kids can swim. My old house had a T-15/Hayward without any other gadgets and it pretty much worked fine, just needed some muriatic acid and salt every now and again.
Can you show pictures of everything?
Did you check the plug?
Maybe the HL-Chem is interfering?
Did you check the plug?
Maybe the HL-Chem is interfering?
3 hours a day is not enough time.
Can you show the cell labels and the automation door labels and all of the equipment?
Completely agree that may not be enough time but I need to solve the root problem that it's not chlorinating at all, seemingly not even for 60 seconds, before I dial in the run time. Pictures are attached. The new cell is mounted upside down because that's what Hayward's directions show. The old one was mounted right side up but doesn't matter since it had the same issues. After I hit the reverse polarity button and then hit the reset salt button I get the low salt warning but never see instant salt or current. I'm waiting for my salt test kit to show up so I won't be able to add salt until next week.
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That is sodium di-chlor, a stabilized (CYA) form of chlorine that will not get to the bottom of the pool before dissolving. Liquid will not get to the bottom either. That's why I recommended cal-hypo which will and sit sit on top of the algae and kill it.
@Bperry I tested my salt with the Taylor K1766 and it took 25 drops to turn from yellow to salmon/brick red. The instructions say that's 5000ppm (25*200) but is that how much salt is in my pool or how much I need to add to my pool or something else? Either way makes no sense. If I had 5000ppm salt in my pool I would taste it (which I don't) and adding 5000ppm would make no sense since Hayward says no more than 4200ppm I believe. Any guidance is appreciated.
Yes, thats correct as long as you stopped adding drops when it first switch to red/brick/etc. dont keep adding drops trying to achieve a specific red color.
Wait a minute here, did you use the 10ml line or the 25ml line. Its a bit confusing but you need the 10ml for the test.
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@Bperry sorry, just so I'm tracking if it took 25 drops to turn brick red that means my current salt level is 5000ppm? If that's true I'm struggling to see how that's even possible. The pool company (who stopped servicing the pool in late May) never added salt and both my old and brand new Hayward T-15 SWG are reporting salt as too low. My pool water doesn't smell or taste of any salt which is what I'm used to when salt is within the normal range (at the pool at my old house).
Correct, i filled to the 10mL line, added one drop of the yellow stuff (sorry I'm not a pro here), swirled, then added drop by drop of the other stuff swirling after each drop until the 25th drop which turned the murky yellow color brick red. Just trying to understand if it's telling me my salt level is 5000ppm or what. Can't understand how that's even possible.
The salt test is different than all the test. Ignore the brick red, salmon, etc. the test works like a ligjt switch when adding drops. One and only one drop will make it change to some flavor of red and thats when the test should be stopped. Dont keep adding drops to achieve a specific red color.
Yes it is. Somewhere between 4800 and 5200ppm. The test has a 200ppm tolerance. Adding chlorine and acid adds salt. Being able to taste it isnt a good measure because everyone has different sensitivity levels.
I recently dumped in 2 gallons of LC to help with the pool turning green and the algae at the bottom. Could this be throwing off my salt readings then? I really don't see how there is any salt in this pool based on my observations of the old pool company and what I've done since June. I add water to the pool weekly and we received some heavy rain last saturday. That combined with my old and new T-15 reporting too low salt and the TDS meter showing low as well. Perhaps I should give it a few days of doing nothing and test again?
Correct, i waited/swirled after each drop and then bam on the 25th drop it changed from yellow to red like a light switch.
Remind me again how old the pool is? Its not that adding chlorine affects the salt test. Adding chlorine literally adds salt to the water. So does adding acid. If this is a new fill then two gallons of chlorine isnt adding 5000ppm salt but if its a few years old its possible.
I'm renting this home but my guess is the pool is close to 10 years old. Roughly 20k gallons (volleyball style so only 5' deep in the center) with a Hayward Omnilogic and T-15 cell.