Zenith/Jandy SWG Nature2 FusionSoft 1400 Error Codes

Jump to latest Follow Reply
R

Rmf1981

Active member
Jun 3, 2022
25
Pittsburgh
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
Hi All - hoping for a little help diagnosing my salt water generator system. I've done as much troubleshooting as I can and getting some confusing results.

I have the Jandy Aqualink connecting to a Zenith Nature2 Fusionsoft 1400 SWG.

My wife, primary caretaker of the pool, noted to me she was having difficulty maintaining chlorine levels in the pool after being really trouble-free all summer so far. (See what i did there? Lol). Inspection of the control panel showed Service Lights on with errors 125 (cell dirty or needs replacement) and 194 (cell current 85% less than desired and voltage >19v).

I found a nice troubleshooting guide here (https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/jandy-aqua-pure-error-codes.pdf). I have walked through what I can of these steps:

  • First, my board appears to be different than that shown. I haven't been able to identify which is the "back board" in my setup. I believe I've identified the front board (picture below)
  • As such, it's not clear to me where to test for voltage coming off of the backboard.
  • Testing voltage at the cell with the cord backed off just a bit shows zero.
  • Putting the probes into the cord itself also shows zero.
  • Tracing the cord back into the box, I disconnected at the junction between the DC cord and the wires attached to the board. Also got zero here.
  • Front board appears to pass troubleshooting. With the flow salinity temp sensor disconnected, I had standard readings for pool temperature and age temperature. My salinity was off, but my understanding is that this could be due to having the salinity set in the past (we did not install this pool).
  • I removed and cleaned the cell in an acid solution per the instructions. There was a mile to moderate amount of scale on it but it certainly did not appear to be horrible.
  • Similarly, the prongs on the SWG appear intact. No sign of corrosion there.
I guess I don't know where to go at this point. The cell appears to be okay and is now clean, but it certainly is old. We have had the house for two seasons now and have not replaced it. It's unclear to me if it was replaced in the four to five years prior under the previous owner.

It's curious to me that there seems to be no voltage coming off The board to the saltwater generator. If someone could suggest a better way to test this at the board I would appreciate it.

I'm between the board being bad and the cell being bad. But I'm open to any other thoughts or suggestions here....

Thank you!

ADDENDUM: as I continued to peruse the threats on the board, I found another thread with the workbook that seemed to represent the newer board. It appears that I was right, there is no front and back board with this model.

In any case, I stepped through the troubleshooting. All voltages appear to be normal with the exception of the voltage out to the SWG, which is registering as 10 volts even though I'm calling for 100% salt production. According to the manual I should be seeing at least 28 volts.

My thought at this point is to replace the control board. Does anyone have any other suggestions or different thoughts?
 

Attachments

  • 20230803_132113.jpg
    20230803_132113.jpg
    605 KB · Views: 8
Last edited:
That picture you shared is the rear PCB board... I found one recently for $190-$220, so it's a much cheaper fix than jumping to a new cell right away (which will be $800-$1000 if you go with Jandy brand). In my case, the rear PCB board replacement fixed both of my SWG issues earlier this summer . One of which has a 123 code, and the other had a 171/189 code.

(sometime later, both would intermittently report Low Current or Extremely Low Current errors.. The fix for that was raising my salt level in the pool even if the Jandy PLC 1400 is not reporting a Low Salt condition and it shows an acceptable salt level. If you test your actual salt level with a Taylor test kit, your salt may be LOW (again even if the Jandy SWG doesn't report it as low). Bringing up your salt level to 3000-3200 (and verifying with testing using a Taylor K-1766 kit) can make those random Low Current or Extremely Low Current errors go away completely.
 
jesse-99 said:
That picture you shared is the rear PCB board... I found one recently for $190-$220, so it's a much cheaper fix than jumping to a new cell right away (which will be $800-$1000 if you go with Jandy brand). In my case, the rear PCB board replacement fixed both of my SWG issues earlier this summer . One of which has a 123 code, and the other had a 171/189 code.

(sometime later, both would intermittently report Low Current or Extremely Low Current errors.. The fix for that was raising my salt level in the pool even if the Jandy PLC 1400 is not reporting a Low Salt condition and it shows an acceptable salt level. If you test your actual salt level with a Taylor test kit, your salt may be LOW (again even if the Jandy SWG doesn't report it as low). Bringing up your salt level to 3000-3200 (and verifying with testing using a Taylor K-1766 kit) can make those random Low Current or Extremely Low Current errors go away completely.
Click to expand...
Interesting.

So if this is the rear PCB, where is the front PCB? I do not see another board.

In looking at the workbook, it seems to me The front / rear board configuration must have been an older configuration. It is listed as such in the workbook. The board referenced first in the workbook is consistent with the board I see in my box.

In any case, your idea of raising the salt level is interesting. Although my testing seems to show a low voltage coming out of the board.

I did find a replacement for this board and have ordered it.
 
I'm not sure about the front PCB other than maybe it's an older generation model, or, its the main display unit/PCB that has the digital reading, etc. I think that's technical a PCB with display, etc. So maybe that's the front (since it's physical in front of the rear PCB as well?).

Do you have a Taylor K-1766 kit? If not, I strongly recommend it. I never had one until this summer, and it seems that if the "real" Salt ppm is around 3200, the Jandy PLC 1400 seems to report the salt level pretty accuracy, but when my salt has gone low (around 2400-2500), the Jandy PLC still reported around 2900, and would give those intermittent low currents but didn't report a low salt error. Go figure. I know the Jandy PLCs obviously only "estimate" salt level based on the current reading. HTH.

Report back if the back PCB fixed yours!
 
Hi all -

So I received the replacement board (back board I believe .... R0467600) and reinstalled it this morning.

Good news is that my previous error codes are now gone (125/194).

Bad news is that I have two new error codes to replace them! (170/193).

Reading through the tech manual, the suggestion is now to change the front board. Can someone tell me where the front board lives? I've googled around, and I really don't see that this board exists in my setup.... Or maybe I'm just dumb. I'll include a picture of the box below, but not sure what to do at this point.

Thank you!

20230808_115657.jpg20230808_115130.jpg
 
Anyone have any other suggestions? Either this is an issue no one has ever seen, or I"m not explaining it righ t....

For what it's worth and for future reference - a few additional things I have learned:

  • There is no front and back board anymore. Jandy replaced the front/back board setup with the "PIB." So, a single board that combines their function. Thus for testing the board this is the workbook you'd want to follow: Electrical - Jandy AquaPure Workbook [Page 12]
    • Sorry I couldn't find a better link than that.
  • Jandy support was pretty much worthless. Their wait time was 2 hours, but they did give an option to call back. They DID call back and the guy politely listened to me, but was unwilling to give any further advice ("due to liability"), and suggested calling a local pool company. He also added that he was surprised I had tried as much as I already had - and stated that he never would have been able to tell me to try some of the things I did, again "due to liability."
  • Still having the 170/193 errors. I am planning to remove the board, reinstall the original board and see if the original errors return. The new board didn't solve anything - and seems to have instroduced a new issue (though it is from Ebay, so who knows).
  • Am mostly afraid anyone I call is just going to throw additional parts at this at elevated labor and parts rates .... which I can do myself. I'm tempted to try a new sensor as that often seems to be the issue but .... I don't have any indication at this point that the sensor is the issue .....
Am really open to ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS ..... Help?
 
Well, just to close the loop here, I ended up ordering a new salt cell.

Upon further inspection of the old one, the central plate does seem to be somewhat degraded. It's certainly not gone entirely, but it's quite jagged at the end. I don't know the age but my estimate is that it's at least five and possibly as old as seven or eight years old.

Installed the replacement, the error has gone away.

Does anyone know how long to expect after the SWG starts running (running "boost" at 100%) we should expect to see free chlorine again? (25,000 gal).
 
Rmf1981 said:
Does anyone know how long to expect after the SWG starts running (running "boost" at 100%) we should expect to see free chlorine again? (25,000 gal).
Click to expand...
Raise the FC to target level for your CYA using liquid chlorine. The SWCG is used to maintain that level of FC.
 
mknauss said:
Raise the FC to target level for your CYA using liquid chlorine. The SWCG is used to maintain that level of FC.
Click to expand...
Hi @mknauss.

Took your advice and added liquid chlorine. Per the instructions, we were able to get a free level of three. Continued with the SWG.

Unfortunately, now about 36 hours later showing no free chlorine again.

Stabilizer also looks a bit low. Would that be the cause of no detectable free chlorine even with the SWG running?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply