Yet another SWG install thread

[AEReeves]

Long time lurker, first time poster. I bought a house last Sept with an pool and was fortunate enough to have found this site while doing research before closing. I've been immensely grateful for all of the guidance which has kept me out of the pool store trap and keeping my pool trouble free (except for my fight with iron but that's another story).

I've decided to DIY install a SWG and after pouring through threads am still left with a couple of questions on which SWG to get and installation. Here are the facts thus far: I have a 14k gallon IG pool with a 1HP Hayward pump that is currently running 24/7 but I might reduce that since I'll be adding timers to manage the SWG.

With the size of my pool I have narrowed it down to either the CircuPool RJ-45 Plus (rated for 45k) or the AutoPilot ChlorSync CS40 (rated for 40k). With the current $10 upgrade deal at DSP I could get the RJ-45 for $1,385 and the CS40 for $1,281. I've read some rave reviews on the RJ-45 and I've seen posts from @RJ-45 with piles of controls boards that have been replaced which leaves me with mixed feelings on it. On the other hand I've read pretty much nothing about the CS40 or other ChlorSync models which makes wonder if there is a reason for this. I'm currently leaning towards the RJ-45 but if anyone has thoughts on the ChlorSync systems I'd be interested to hear about them.

With regards to installation I've got ~34 inches between the heater and the split for the returns but there is a currently a booster pump plumbed close to the return valves. Do I need to move the booster pump closer to the heater and install the SWG after the T for the booster pump? Or can I just leave the booster plumbing as is and put the SWG inline before it. I'm assuming I'll want to move it but figured I'd check.

Is there any advantages to placing the flow valve before or after the SWG? I think I could accomplish it in either configuration with the current setup but wasn't sure if one is preferable over the other.

I've attached pics of the setup below, let me know if there are any issues with my current plan that I might not be thinking of. Thanks for any help and insight.

 

[HermanTX]

With regards to installation I've got ~34 inches between the heater and the split for the returns but there is a currently a booster pump plumbed close to the return valves. Do I need to move the booster pump closer to the heater and install the SWG after the T for the booster pump? Or can I just leave the booster plumbing as is and put the SWG inline before it. I'm assuming I'll want to move it but figured I'd check.

I see no reason to move the "tee" going to the booster pump. Just maybe need to push that electrical wiring for the booster pump closer to the booster pump. Where you thinking of keeping the SWCG on the horizontal plane (as indicated by your ruler) or were you considering the vertical "u" that CircuPool offers as an option?

 

[AEReeves]

I was planning on installing horizontally following the ruler. Is there any reason a vertical installation might be advantageous?

 

[HermanTX]

I was planning on installing horizontally following the ruler. Is there any reason a vertical installation might be advantageous?

Space is the main reason and if you wanted to get the SWCG off of the ground. It may not matter for you but it is an option. You can see it at Vertical Installation Kit for CircuPool® Saltwater Chlorinator Systems

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

It looks like you have enough room to do a vertical installation on the downpipe from the heater. You could remove the section at the union which would make it a bit easier install the components between the two elbows.

I've only had my RJ-45 for a couple months, but it's been solid so far.

 

[cowboycasey]

If you have been here for awhile you know I love me some Circupool SWG's.. They are rockstars...

I would also add a heater bypass unless you use your heater all the time.. You will get much better flow going around your heater and no have any issues if you ever had to work on it... What a perfect time to do it while your installing the SWG...

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Both of the above options should work fine

 

[AEReeves]

I like the idea of the heater bypass and think I could accomplish that and install the SWG in the vertical configuration with relatively minimal replumbing. Below is a mock up of how I think I could do it.

Green blob would be a Jandy 3 way valve. Red would be a ball valve. Blue is where I'd put the SWG, and yellow is the piping. Does that look like a good configuration?



Based on the comments this far I'm pretty sure I'm going to end up with the RJ-45 plus.

 

[cowboycasey]

The red ball valve is not needed you need a check valve.. the check valve stops the flow going into the exit of the heater when you bypass the heater...

Polytec Jandy valves

The rest looks like it should work

 

[AEReeves]

Ok, pulled the trigger! RJ-45 Plus with the Jandy 3 way and check valve to do the bypass.

Planning to install in the vertical configuration on the heater downpipe. I’ll either put the flow valve after the cell on the vertical pipe if there is room to do it easily or on the horizontal one if needed.

I’ve got the T-1766 on the way, but based on my pool size I’m going to assume I’ll be needing 200-300 lbs of salt. Should I just get started with 100lbs while I’m waiting on the kit and then fine tune from there? Or am I better off waiting until I know my exact salt levels?

Thanks for the advice on the install!

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Other forms of chlorine add salt to pool water over time. When I first converted to salt, my pool water was 3 years old and my level was at 1200 ppm. I've seen some report levels here as high as 2400. It would be smart to wait until you get the kit and test, then add 75% of what you think you need. Test again and add the rest.

It will only take about 24 hours for the salt to mix before you start up your SWG.

 

[HermanTX]

I’ve got the T-1766 on the way, but based on my pool size I’m going to assume I’ll be needing 200-300 lbs of salt. Should I just get started with 100lbs while I’m waiting on the kit and then fine tune from there? Or am I better off waiting until I know my exact salt levels?

Never assume without testing first.

Also - please update your installation process as I am looking at the RJ-45plus as well. Thanks.

 

[cowboycasey]

I would do the flow valve horizontally, that way no issue of it getting stuck open

 

[AEReeves]

Ok, I’ll use some pool owner patience and wait until I get the test kit before adding any salt.

I would do the flow valve horizontally, that way no issue of it getting stuck open

Thanks for the tip, I didn’t realize that was a risk with a vertical install.

Also - please update your installation process as I am looking at the RJ-45plus as well. Thanks.

Will do. I’d been thinking about documenting it anyways.

I don’t currently have any automation or timers setup with my pool and have been surprised by the complexity and cost of the solutions. I’m planning to use a couple of Shelly relays which are pretty easy to use and has been thinking I should document that as an example anyways. Should give me automation over the SWG and pump for ~ $50. The Shelly devices also have power monitoring built in and can be added to most home assistant/automation systems.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Make sure the relay can handle the amperage of your pump. I used a Sonoff Basic R3 switch for my SWG. My pump automation is a little more complicated. The link to my budget automation system is in my signature. Document your progress if you can.

 

[AEReeves]

Just checked out your automation setup and it is nice but a bit more complex than what I’m looking to do. The last part with the Sonoff is exactly what I’m going to do for the SWG and the pump. I just want to be able to turn the power on and off and set a schedule.

The relay I’m looking at is the Shelly 2.5. It can handle 2 circuits up to 10 amps each. They also have a version that can do one circuit up to 16 amps but my pump is wired at 220 and it’s max draw is 7.5 amps so I can just use the one relay for both.

I’ve got a different Shelly in use that I’ve been really happy with so I’m going to stay in that ecosystem but it looks like the Sonoff would be a good solution too. Will definitely be taking a look at the enclosure you found on Amazon if I can’t get things to fit in a standard electrical box.

 

[nabril15]

Just checked out your automation setup and it is nice but a bit more complex than what I’m looking to do. The last part with the Sonoff is exactly what I’m going to do for the SWG and the pump. I just want to be able to turn the power on and off and set a schedule.

The relay I’m looking at is the Shelly 2.5. It can handle 2 circuits up to 10 amps each. They also have a version that can do one circuit up to 16 amps but my pump is wired at 220 and it’s max draw is 7.5 amps so I can just use the one relay for both.

AE
You have me intrigued with this automation of yours. Is the only thing needed that little Shelly box with the 7 terminals? I assume not, and that something else is needed. How do you control it?