Wow, Am I Totally Confused

[BuckeyeMan]

I am totally confused about all this. I let the pool guy go, because I was told quit wasting my money and use this. Then I was told to drain my pool to remedy my CH. So 16,000 gallons drained, and 16,000 gallons filled later, I do my check with my TF-100 kit, and excited because everything looks great. I add my numbers into PoolMath app, and still think everything is ok, but then I get to looking closer and, find out :
FC = 1 PoolMath wants me to add 41 oz. of Bleach or Liquid Chorine (I believe is the same thing)
TA = 90
CYA = 20 PoolMath wants me to add 140 oz. of Liquid Stabilizer
PH = 7.5 -7.8 PoolMath wants me to add 19 0z. of 14.5% Muriatic Acid
CH = 250 PoolMath wants me to add 478 oz. or 30lbs. of Calcium Chloride
CSI = 0.02
According to PoolMath, the CH range is anywhere from 250-650, so why is it wanting me to add 30lbs of Calcium Chloride to already very hard water? I am lucky I already have some of this from the previous owner, but don't know how old, at least 2 years, because that is how long I have owned the house. If I continually have to add all these chemicals, I don't know how this can be a cheaper route than paying the pool guy. Sorry for the rant, just getting tired of pool expenses. I will post pics of what I have, in the way of Chemicals, so you can say keep, use, or don't use/pitch out.

The PowerPowder Plus is what the guy let, that just cleaned the Calcium from my pool tile.

 

[Texas Splash]

No worries, you are fine. Don't add calcium. AZ water doesn't need any help. A CH of 250 is fine, and so is your pH in the 7.5 - 7.8 range. For now, just be sure your CYA is at least 30, maybe 40, then bump up the FC to about 4 - 5 ppm. The PoolMath APP is a great tool and guide, but you still need to review its recommendations and/or sometimes discuss here on the forum to put it all together. We'll help.

 

[Texas Splash]

As for all the pool store stuff in pic #4, give it all to a friend (or enemy) EXCEPT for the liquid conditioner (CYA). You won't need any of that other stuff.

 

[aussieta]

well done on taking control of your pool
nobody will care as much as you do
not sure what you have your targets set to in pool math double check that
bring fc up to 3ppm asap about 80 oz 8.5 bleach
leave ta , ch and ph as they are
either use powder or liquid cya and bring up to 30ppm

 

[BuckeyeMan]

As for all the pool store stuff in pic #4, give it all to a friend (or enemy) EXCEPT for the liquid conditioner (CYA). You won't need any of that other stuff.

Don’t use the Poower PowderPlus?

 

[BuckeyeMan]

As for all the pool store stuff in pic #4, give it all to a friend (or enemy) EXCEPT for the liquid conditioner (CYA). You won't need any of that other stuff.

Also, I have a deck chlorinator, and use 3” tabs. Don’t use that right now?

 

[elwood58]

Save the chlorinator for covering vacations, but know you will also be adding CYA.

 

[BuckeyeMan]

Save the chlorinator for covering vacations, but know you will also be adding CYA.

Should I use bleach or liquid chlorine? I take it that in PoolMath settings, Cal-Hypo means liquid chlorine? I notice that you can choose the strength of Cal-Hypo , but only starting with a 48% strength and up. My liquid chlorine is 10% Sodium Hypochlorite and 90% other ingredients. Is there a difference between Cal-Hypo and Sodium Hypochlorite, and which one do I want, or use the bleach from Dollar Store? Also, is there differences in which stabilizer I should get? Sorry for all the questions, but till I get the hang of this, there will be many more to come.

 

[Texas Splash]

Avoid Cal-Hypo as it add calcium unless your CH is very low. While you are on the low end of the CH scale (250), you can expect your CH to climb rapidly this year with periodic top-offs from evaporation. So I would hold off on the cal-hypo. Remember tabs increase CYA. Tabs are also acidic and tend to pull the pH and TA down, so tabs have to be used cautiously. For now, I would use liquid chlorine (or regular bleach) to increase the FC and use some of that liquid conditioner to get the CYA to around 30 or 40. Once you add the conditioner in the amount you chose, be sure to keep the FC balanced to that CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels.

 

[Texas Splash]

What makes liquid chlorine (or bleach) so good is that they don't have the side effects that those tabs or bags of chlorine/cal-hypo have. Those "other ingredients, on the bottle are things like water and salt. Conditioner is typically the term used for the liquid CYA while stabilizer is usually in granule form. Either is fine, but conditioner is referred to as liquid gold because it costs much more.

 

[Texas Splash]

Finally, remember when it comes to free chlorine, a pool needs it every day. The only exception would be chilly water in the winter when you might get-by skipping some days. But between the months of Mar - Oct in your area you'll want to be vigilant about testing the FC everyday. Shop around for places that sell liquid chlorine. Home Depot, Walmart, the Dollar store, it doesn't matter. But if you use regular bleach, make sure it is regular/plain. Never use bleach that says scented or splashless. And stay away from the Clorox brand as they tend to add fabric (polymer) products that mess with the water.

 

[BuckeyeMan]

Finally, remember when it comes to free chlorine, a pool needs it every day. The only exception would be chilly water in the winter when you might get-by skipping some days. But between the months of Mar - Oct in your area you'll want to be vigilant about testing the FC everyday. Shop around for places that sell liquid chlorine. Home Depot, Walmart, the Dollar store, it doesn't matter. But if you use regular bleach, make sure it is regular/plain. Never use bleach that says scented or splashless. And stay away from the Clorox brand as they tend to add fabric (polymer) products that mess with the water.

I don't get it. So I can use the liquid chlorine, even though it is 10% sodium hypochlorite, and 90% other ingredients? Poolmath won't give me how much to add, because it doesn't list it. It does for bleach, but it also asks the % of bleach chlorine, and looking at a bottle of bleach here in the house, it doesn't say. The bottles of liquid chlorine for pools at places like HomeDepot, are the same as what I have 10% & 90% other ingredients.

 

[Mdragger88]

in PoolMath settings, Cal-Hypo means liquid chlorine?

Cal hypo is calcium hypochlorite- it is powdered/granular & adds calcium as well as fc.
You don’t need anymore calcium at this time.
Liquid chlorine is sodium hypochlorite/bleach/ chlorinating liquid & listed as bleach in poolmath. It only raises fc & doesn’t affect other parameters other than salt (which all forms of chlorine add)
The tablets are tri chlor - they add cya as well as fc & are also acidic & should be used with caution & moderation, not as daily chlorine. Save those for vacations or periods away.
Also liquid conditioner/cya/stabilizer is expensive. Its also best to use the whole bottle at once & rinse it well in the pool because it likes to get stuck in the bottle. Otherwise you may not get the result from your addition you expected. This makes it finicky to use.
After what u have is gone go for the granular stuff & use the sock method.
It can be found at lowes/Home Depot/Walmart.
It’s not very expensive to run a pool on liquid chlorine, Muriatic acid, & granular stabilizer.
The cya, calcium (if needed) are one time additions that stay in the pool unless water is replaced/displaced. They need yo be monitored every few weeks or so but not daily like fc & ph.
All that other stuff is unnecessary & expensive the price of solid forms of chlorine alone is truly astronomical at this point.
You’re test kit is an initial investment $$ but the regents can be replaced individually for a minimal expense as they are depleted. For the ones less used, they should be replaced after 2 yrs. Proper storage insures this longevity.
Along with what poolmath says be sure to review Recommended Levels if you stay within those parameters you will be fine.
I know u are a bit overwhelmed but follow the recommendations everyone has given above & just do one thing at a time. You’ll be a tfp pro in no time Here’s some great links

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.google.com

Non-Recommended Pool Chemicals

These pool chemicals should not be added to your pool. Save your money and frustration and avoid these chemicals!

www.google.com

How to Chlorinate Your Pool

Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.

www.google.com

 

[Mdragger88]

I don't get it. So I can use the liquid chlorine, even though it is 10% sodium hypochlorite, and 90% other ingredients? Poolmath won't give me how much to add, because it doesn't list it. It does for bleach, but it also asks the % of bleach chlorine, and looking at a bottle of bleach here in the house, it doesn't say. The bottles of liquid chlorine for pools at places like HomeDepot, are the same as what I have 10% & 90% other ingredients.

The percentage is 10%

I don't get it. So I can use the liquid chlorine, even though it is 10% sodium hypochlorite, and 90% other ingredients? Poolmath won't give me how much to add, because it doesn't list it. It does for bleach, but it also asks the % of bleach chlorine, and looking at a bottle of bleach here in the house, it doesn't say. The bottles of liquid chlorine for pools at places like HomeDepot, are the same as what I have 10% & 90% other ingredients.

it is bleach- 10%

 

[Texas Splash]

Lots of good info above. If you still have questions let us know.

 

[BoringDamo]

I don't get it. So I can use the liquid chlorine, even though it is 10% sodium hypochlorite, and 90% other ingredients? Poolmath won't give me how much to add, because it doesn't list it. It does for bleach, but it also asks the % of bleach chlorine, and looking at a bottle of bleach here in the house, it doesn't say. The bottles of liquid chlorine for pools at places like HomeDepot, are the same as what I have 10% & 90% other ingredients.

Think of Sodium Hydroclorite as being just that chemical and is available in different dilutions (don’t worry about what dilutes it, it has no impact to worry about).
It is known by a few names, one of which is bleach, and for pools liquid chlorine.
Household bleach tends to be weaker in strength ( as low as a few %) than “pool” liquid chlorine (normally >10%) so from a cost perspective it’s better to go pool liquid chlorine normally.
There are often other “pool” chlorinating products that are not pure sodium hydrochloride. These add chlorine but also other stuff which is not compatible with TFP methods. Hence the advice to get only pure (but diluted) sodium hydrochloride.

A point to note: the strength of the chemicals degrades over time and is accelerated by heat. Ideally you want fresh stuff (there is a guide somewhere on TFP on how to read the date code on bottles) and almost certainly avoid buying from stores that have it stored in direct sunlight.

So, buy 10% (or higher) liquid chlorine as advised above.

 

[BuckeyeMan]

Cal hypo is calcium hypochlorite- it is powdered/granular & adds calcium as well as fc.
You don’t need anymore calcium at this time.
Liquid chlorine is sodium hypochlorite/bleach/ chlorinating liquid & listed as bleach in poolmath. It only raises fc & doesn’t affect other parameters other than salt (which all forms of chlorine add)
The tablets are tri chlor - they add cya as well as fc & are also acidic & should be used with caution & moderation, not as daily chlorine. Save those for vacations or periods away.
Also liquid conditioner/cya/stabilizer is expensive. Its also best to use the whole bottle at once & rinse it well in the pool because it likes to get stuck in the bottle. Otherwise you may not get the result from your addition you expected. This makes it finicky to use.
After what u have is gone go for the granular stuff & use the sock method.
It can be found at lowes/Home Depot/Walmart.
It’s not very expensive to run a pool on liquid chlorine, Muriatic acid, & granular stabilizer.
The cya, calcium (if needed) are one time additions that stay in the pool unless water is replaced/displaced. They need yo be monitored every few weeks or so but not daily like fc & ph.
All that other stuff is unnecessary & expensive the price of solid forms of chlorine alone is truly astronomical at this point.
You’re test kit is an initial investment $$ but the regents can be replaced individually for a minimal expense as they are depleted. For the ones less used, they should be replaced after 2 yrs. Proper storage insures this longevity.
Along with what poolmath says be sure to review Recommended Levels if you stay within those parameters you will be fine.
I know u are a bit overwhelmed but follow the recommendations everyone has given above & just do one thing at a time. You’ll be a tfp pro in no time Here’s some great links

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.google.com

Non-Recommended Pool Chemicals

These pool chemicals should not be added to your pool. Save your money and frustration and avoid these chemicals!

www.google.com

How to Chlorinate Your Pool

Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.

www.google.com

I do not have a date on any of the bottles of Chlorine or on the box, so I will buy some new. The liquid stabilizer I showed in the picture has no date either, and looked in gallon bottle, and it was liquid on top and looked like dried up paint in bottom. I shook it up and now looks like milk, so maybe I should buy some of the granular? Walmart has 4lb bag of Clorox Stabilizer for $20, and three different prices on the same liquid stabilizer that I have. PoolMath says I need 112oz of liquid, or 43oz of dry.
Is the Clorox brand ok, and what is the sock method? Hope you get this cause I am headed to Walmart here in a few minutes. AND THANKS EVERYONE.

 

[Mdragger88]

I the clorox stabilizer is fine - its what i use - the sock method is where u put the stabilizer in a tube sock or skimmer sock (usually about 2# will fit), tie a knot in the end, then hang the sock in front of a return not touching the pool wall. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissolve.

A268E00B-8818-43AF-AA8E-57F17284802B.jpeg

• Mdragger88
• Jul 28, 2021

Here’s the date code on the bleach.
Here’s the sock method

9CE94D47-C384-45B9-AFDC-2B598C43CBEA.jpeg

• Mdragger88
• Jun 30, 2021

 

[BuckeyeMan]

I the clorox stabilizer is fine - its what i use - the sock method is where u put the stabilizer in a tube sock or skimmer sock (usually about 2# will fit), tie a knot in the end, then hang the sock in front of a return not touching the pool wall. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissolve.

A268E00B-8818-43AF-AA8E-57F17284802B.jpeg

• Mdragger88
• Jul 28, 2021

Here’s the date code on the bleach.
Here’s the sock method

9CE94D47-C384-45B9-AFDC-2B598C43CBEA.jpeg

• Mdragger88
• Jun 30, 2021

Here is the only numbers I can find on the chlorine boxes

 

[JoyfulNoise]

That’s the 112th day of 2020 … so that liquid chlorine is about 2 months short of 2 years old. It’s basically salt water at this point. Maybe 1% hypochlorite if you’re lucky.

Buy fresher stuff as that liquid chlorine will not work well at all.