Wiring for heat pump

[tcat]

Thinking of adding a 110k btu heat pump, rated 36/40 amps. Currently have a 50 amp breaker at main panel, a 20 amp breaker at equipment for 1hp pump, and 20 amp for 2 pool lights and 6 small path lights. I think the 20 amp for lights could be changed to 10 or 15. Just not sure what size wire was run to the sub, can't find a label. Measures about .20 with insulation. If it's it's 6 gage can I just change the main to a 70amp? Would a real pain to run a 4.

Plan on measuring with some calipers tomorrow, just wanted to check on breaker and write size needed. I don't plan on doing it myself.

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[Charlie_R]

Since you state you will not be doing it yourself, get a couple of estimates from quality electricians in your area.

You may need to run a separate line from your main box, dedicated to the heat pump. Chances are high that the wire already in place will be way too small for the task, and the poolside breaker box is probably not rated for higher than 60A.

Do get a professional opinion from a local electrician or three.

 

[gwegan]

I agree with charle. Call three electricians and get estimates.

 

[ps0303]

The heat pump has to be on a dedicated line from your main panel of the house. Just like an AC unit it has to have a quick disconnect by the unit for servicing. If you are not familiar with the electrical requirements for a heat pump, please get an electrician involved.

 

[tcat]

OK. The 50amp main goes about 50' to the sub panel at the equipment. The sub panel has 2 breakers and room for more. Are you saying there needs to a second sub panel just for the HP? The main wire is 7 stands of .06", so looks like 6 awg. Pump is only 7.5 amps, so could be on a 10 amp breaker. Pretty sure a 40 amp for the HP and two 10 amps for other would work. But not if the HP needs to be separate. Also noticed no gfi on main or sub. Seems odd. Gfi on other plugs in house and porch around pool.

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[racket]

OK. The 50amp main goes about 50' to the sub panel at the equipment. The sub panel has 2 breakers and room for more. Are you saying there needs to a second sub panel just for the HP? The main wire is 7 stands of .06", so looks like 6 awg. Pump is only 7.5 amps, so could be on a 10 amp breaker. Pretty sure a 40 amp for the HP and two 10 amps for other would work. But not if the HP needs to be separate. Also noticed no gfi on main or sub. Seems odd. Gfi on other plugs in house and porch around pool.

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#6 thhn typically is rated for 50 amps so you have the correct wire there.

Most heat pump compressors consume 6kw of power which depending on the voltage is around 27 amps. However, you must oversize the breaker to handle the startup current of the compressor motor. This is why a 50 amp breaker is required. I wouldn't run a pump motor and heat pump on a 50 am circuit. It's going to trip on you frequently.

The easiest solution to your problem it to have an electrician run a separate 20 amp circuit from the main panel for the pool pump and utilize the existing service for the heat pump.

 

[ps0303]

You have to run a dedicated line from your main panel in the house/garage to a quick disconnect, just like what you have by your AC unit. You can not feed it from the sub panel by your pool. I highly suggest you call an electrician and get them to do the work.

 

[tcat]

Have email to 2 for a quote. Hope to meet next week. Not really sure how they'd run a second line, don't really want an ugly piece of conduit running down the side of the house. The existing is through the wall and layer of stone, not in conduit, so nothing to pull from/through. Strange the original owner ran a 3/4" propane line, but no extra electrical. Some sort of portable solar may be my only cost effective option.

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[bk406]

If it were me, I'd have the electician run a bigger line out to the existing panel by the pool. A 50 amp panel, as others have said, is not big enough. The HP needs to be on a 50 amp breaker. I have 100amps out by the pool that runs a HP, filter pump, pool light, 2 convenience outlets, gas heater, chlorine generator and the Pentair Easytouch box. And I still have more power than I need out there. You can run a heatpump off of a "subpanel". Nothing magical about running it off of a "main". They'll run a conduit from the panel to the disconnect box, then a flex over to the heat pump. No need for a GFI on the main that feeds the second panel, or a GFI on the HP. Pool light and filter pump needs a GFCI breaker as does the convenience outlet (or a GFI plug will work too).

 

[tcat]

Not sure why a 40A and a 20A breaker at the sub wouldn't work, will talk to electrician about it.
My equipment is at least 50' from the pool, no outlets.

Main in garage: 50A (change to 60A?), 50' of 6 awg wire to sub (located at the pump and future heat pump location)

AO Smith 2 speed pump motor (8.5A)
Intermatic Timer Motor (.5A?)
= 9 Amps (currently on a 20A breaker)

Two SAM/SAL Pool Lights (2.5A)
Low voltage lighting transformer (2.2A)
Future Stenner Pump (.9A)
= 6 Amps (currently on a 20A breaker), need to change to GFCI

Future Heat Pump (40A): http://www.gulfstreamheatpump.com/gs-models/hi-5-additional-specs4/
= 40 Amps (could run a shut-off box 1' from sub if needed, seems redundant)

 

[tcat]

After talking with the electrician, it's only 8 awg wire and needs an extra line run. He said he could use the existing 8 awg sub for the heat pump (with a 40a breaker), and run new 10 or 12 awg 20amp circuit for the pump and lights. He measured the pump on high drawing 7.2a. It's a new 65' run, fairly easy access, should have a quote tomorrow. He did notice a GFCI on the timer box (I hadn't noticed) that he said would protect the equipment and pool lights. Since all my efforts at solar are going down the drain, looks like a heat pump is the way to go.

 

[tcat]

Re: Plumbing for heat pump

I was going to start a new thread about plumbing, but I thought I might as well add to this one. After much research, and terrible city codes with solar, I decided I am going to buy a Gulfstream HE110RA heat pump. I got good/fast feedback from both poolheatpumps.com and Gulfstream. Has the smallest footprint, low circuit requirement, and very good specs.

I've seen plumbing diagrams of all sorts, some with just one bypass valve between; some with high dollar Jandy valves; some with 3 cheap shut-off valves; some with check valves.... My equipment is about 20" above pool level, currently no check valves, no solar, no spa. Attached is picture of current set up. Heat pump will go at left, tab feeder and the line behind the filter will be removed. Any benefits to using Jandy valves? I can see the logic in being able to run without the heat pump attached, so at least 2 shut-off valves. I also plan on a Stenner pump (to replace my suction feeder), might as well add a fitting for it. Suggestions are welcome.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuqf107s0b2rsaq/PoolPumpFilter.jpg?dl=0

 

[gwegan]

Use Jandy valves. There are several threads on here right now on repairs to ball valves. They are worth the extra money. Additionally if you ever install automation Jandy valves are simple to automate.

Install a port for the chemical pump AFTER the heater.

I would also leave room for a solar install before the heat pump so when your city comes to its senses that is easy to add.

 

[tcat]

Just finished piping the Heat Pump today. Electrician used the existing 50A circuit for the HP and ran a new 20A for the pump and lights. Still too cold to try out, but all ready to go as soon as it gets warm for a few days!