will leslie's t-cell-15 replacement work with r-1.45 aqua rite?

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Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Check if how your board is set for cell type.

Many non-OEM T-15 cells from various manufacturers say they require Aquarite firmware level r1.5 or newer.

Revision 1.50 added the ability to select the T-cell type in the settings. Prior to revision 1.50, the system was preset to take a T-5 or T-15.

The earlier boards have a jumper on the board to select the cell type of T5 or T15. In some cases the jumper is adjustable and in some cases it requires that you solder the points together to select the T15 option if the board originally came set to T-5.

As long a generic cell is a T5 or T15, and the jumper is set correctly, the cell will work.
 
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ajw22 said:

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Check if how your board is set for cell type.

Many non-OEM T-15 cells from various manufacturers say they require Aquarite firmware level r1.5 or newer.

Revision 1.50 added the ability to select the T-cell type in the settings. Prior to revision 1.50, the system was preset to take a T-5 or T-15.

The earlier boards have a jumper on the board to select the cell type of T5 or T15. In some cases the jumper is adjustable and in some cases it requires that you solder the points together to select the T15 option if the board originally came set to T-5.

As long a generic cell is a T5 or T15, and the jumper is set correctly, the cell will work.
Click to expand...
The amount of knowledge on this site is amazing. I have this same situation, thanks for posting.
 
sadly, the replacement t-cell 15 is showing 6k.
For sure its 5k + (based on test strip test) and obviously, the new cell.

its been running for about a week.
I know its high, but its still generating, the light for high salt is not on?
pool looks nice.

I've drained about 2 feet and filled backup (about 1 foot before new cell and 1 foot after)... nothing seems to lower the salt???

DO I just need to drain half the pool?

Am I causing more problems besides wasting water and paying for new water?
Am I breaking, destroying my t-cell 15 or SWG, the board/components with salt that high and still running it?

thanks for your thoughts!!
 
Is your replacement T-15 cell genuine Hayward or a clone cell?

You should get a more accurate salt level using a salt test kit like the Taylor K-1766 - Salt

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
  • Report all diagnostic readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Salt - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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ajw22 said:
Thanks for your help, below is info
Click to expand...

This post shows my SWG board and the clone tcell I got:

will leslie's t-cell-15 replacement work with r-1.45 aqua rite?

hi https://lesliespool.com/replacement-salt-cell-with-15-foot-cable---40000-gallons/81388.html will that work with this board? AL-0 r 1.45 So, does all t-cell-15 work with any? or does that leslies replacement tell the truth when it says it needs R of 1.5+ ? anyone know for sure? thanks!
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

When I did the 3 types of readings you asked, not much changed:
82
22.7
8.9
70P
6100
AL-0
r1.45
6300

The above was when "Auto to Off" readings.
Completely the same readings when "Off, then Back to Auto".

When I waited 1 minute Off and then "Back to Auto", the only difference was:

22.7 => 22.8
8.9 => 9

The rest were the same.


NOTE: I turned off and waited few minutes and checked readings.
all the same except for:

8.9 => 8.83


my assumptions:
1) the box is running hot? to hot as I smell a very faint scent of plastic burning?
2) I turned down the 70% to 50%

The salt test strips I got, were leslies and
within the 1st few seconds of "out of water", it shows basically at 5k (very few dots)
and then ALL the dots going away, which I'm assuming is well over 5k.

which is also what the SWG is showing.

again, no red lights.
its generating salt.
Pool looks great.

I'm just assuming I'm burning up my SWG?

your thoughts?
 
I know this is a long thread.

1st part was "can the clone tcell" work with my existing, old control => the answer is YES, it works fine... as it is generating salt. :)

==> issue BEFORE I got the new tcell, I added too much salt in the pool

2nd part:
Am I breaking, destroying my t-cell 15 or SWG or the board/components BECAUSE my salt in the pool is 5k-6k high and I'm still running it?

Your thoughts on the 2nd part?

thanks!
 
The almost 9 amps is burning up your Aquarite board components. Aquarite boards fail due high salt causing high amps causing heat burning out components and solder joints.

Normal amps should be preferably in the 6's for a T-15 cell and never above 8.

If your salinity is 6000 you need to drain half your pool to lower it to around 3000. A new Aquarite is best run at 2800-3000 ppm salt.

You should get a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit for accurate salt levels.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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So I drained the pool - but not enough :(
((fyi. I don't have a simple square pool -- it is lots of curves, different levels and not square sides. AND the pool came with the house.))

The salt level when from like 6100 to 5200, so only like 15% lower? I was positive I drained at last 30% water, but obviously not.
The current was still operating at about 7.5 amps (below 8). So if it was just below 9 and and now just below 8, that is similar to 15% lower.

I didn't run it much. BUT today, I was looking/testing again and see it should have been generating, but it wasn't.
I reset everything and it worked for few moments and turned off.

Looking under cover, I see now:
1) I should replace the rectifiers. are both the same one?
does this fit my Aquarite?

2) I'm going to replace the orange cable, as it got a little fried. It had 16 AWG 600v wire. I saw others say get 12 or 14 gauge wire... I'm assuming I should do the same?

3) going to replace the thermistor (again). The pack 2 weeks ago came with 2 :)

everything else I looked seemed okay.
the yellow, 20 amp fuse was okay, didn't blow. (not sure why/how it did not???)


Question: on new tcell, will its reported salt level be that far off, that you would need the exact measurement of salt via Taylor K-2766?
I can see now, after a tcell is older, you need to know for sure (I learned the hard way).
 
The aquarite calculates the salinity based on conductivity measurements so you cannot solely rely upon it for your actual salinity measurement- whether the cell is new or old.

You need to have the actual salinity level within the safe parameters required by the manufacturer to prevent damaging your equipment and you must satisfy the cell itself so it produces chlorine.
 
So nothing is better than getting accurate readings of salt, yourself. Understood.

About replacing the orange cable, as it got a little fried. It had 16 AWG 600v wire. I saw others say get 12 or 14 gauge wire...
1) use same wire or change to 12 or 14 gauge?


I read that rectifiers generally do not go bad. Especially for mine, as the yellow 20 amp fuse isn't blown.
2) but curious, does this fit my unit?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/583-MP356


Thanks
 
yrral_TX said:
About replacing the orange cable, as it got a little fried. It had 16 AWG 600v wire. I saw others say get 12 or 14 gauge wire...
1) use same wire or change to 12 or 14 gauge?
Click to expand...

I would make it 12 gauge. Why replace it with the size wire that visibly started burning?

yrral_TX said:
I read that rectifiers generally do not go bad. Especially for mine, as the yellow 20 amp fuse isn't blown.
2) but curious, does this fit my unit?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/583-MP356
Click to expand...
Yes.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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I replaced both rectifiers, thermistor, and replaced the fried orange wire.
drained pool and but not enough (as salt cell reading 4200 ish).

when running:
volts about 25 (seeing it between 23 and 25)
amps about 7.3 (seeing it between 7.2 and 7.5)

all good when running, but at some point, it stops generating as amps goes to 0 and volts go to 32.

note: in BOTH situations above, the green generating light stays on.
but that is not true, its not generating salt if no current/volts at 32, correct?

Question:
what happens when the generating salt light staying on when it should be turned off (as when unit has no amps)?
 
ajw22 said:
What is the % set to?

I think you are seeing the cell idle as it cycles the % generation.

SWG Generation Cycle Times - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
thanks... had know idea about idling :)
it was set at 50%.
I'm assuming higher setting runs higher amps?


so now, as it seems...
while salt is on the high side, amps never above 7.5. Uhm, I just looked again at the Lesliespool t-cell page, it says 6 amps.

at moment, all is fine???
BUT yes, I need to get salt down, sooner than later.
 
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