WiFi timer/hanna bl100 tripping breaker?

[uraceulose]

Everything powers up just fine. When I push the button to close the relay on the WiFi timer whether it’s through the app or on the unit itself, it shorts it out and trips the breaker.

Any ideas what I’ve got hooked up incorrectly?

The blue/brown wires from the Hanna bl100 are line and neutral. The yellow wire with the green stripe is the ground.

At this moment, the white and black jumper wires you see hanging loose from the input power terminals are hooked up white to neutral and black to line and everything is working great.

 

[Jimrahbe]

U,

If the white and black go to the AC power input L and N), then when you close the relay, you are shorting AC power straight to ground!!!!!

What are you trying to do here??? It makes no sense to me so far..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[uraceulose]

I'm trying to use that timer to turn the BL100 on and off, sir

 

[uraceulose]

And yes, white and black are wired into the SWCG/Pump power which is all on 220 Volt AC...so I just jumped over off of that to the 2 terminals on the timer to bring power over there.

 

[Jimrahbe]

U,

Are the blue and brown wires going to the Hanna Bl 100??? Or coming from the Hanna? Which color is the Line and which color is the Neutral?

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[uraceulose]

They are coming from it. Now that you just said that...that is probably my issue. I didn't think it mattered which of the brown or blue went to neutral or line since it was on 220 power. That is just my ignorance. Nothing factual backing it up...I just thought they were both hot since that's how they're wired out of the breaker so it shouldn't matter.

I'll pull the back cover off here in just a bit and make sure they're going to the correct spots at both ends.

 

[Jimrahbe]

U,

If the timer is connected to 240 Volts AC on L and N, where do you expect to get the 120 Volts needed by the Hanna???

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[uraceulose]

Everything is on 220 power. Why do I need 120 coming in anywhere?

 

[uraceulose]

Well, I just swapped the brown and the blue wires and it still just did the same thing when I hit the button

 

[ajw22]

With 240V you do not have a LINE and NEUTRAL wire. You have two hot line wires.

NEC requires BOTH hot wires on a 240V circuit be switched. Otherwise you leave a hazard with the device off and one wire powered that can injure someone.

Show us EVERYTHING - the CB, the BL100, and the timer.

Your lack of knowledge in what you are doing is dangerous.

 

[uraceulose]

Will do. Yeah I’m definitely shaking messing around with this stuff

I was able to get everything figured out so far with help on here so I didn’t think this would be difficult for me.

The line/load with 4 clear terminals like the intelliconnect has the relays labeled makes a lot more sense to me.

Everything is working great right now but if I push the button to activate that relay it will short it out and trip the breaker.
Will get more photos and worse case I think it’s okay to run like this until I can get an electrician out here

 

[Jimrahbe]

U,

If everything is 240 volts, do this..

Leave the 240 volts input connected to the timer L and N
Remove all the other timer wires..
Connect a jumper from L to Com 2
Connect a jumper from N to Com 1
Connect the blue wire to NO 1
Connect the Brown wire to NO 2

When both relays in the timer close, they will send 240 volts AC to the Hanna.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[uraceulose]

Thank you so much Jim

 

[uraceulose]

Hmm. So now it’s not tripping the breaker but when I push the button on the timer it kicks the bl-100 on for a brief moment not even long enough for the LCD to fully boot..then the bl-100 turns off and stays off although the indicator light on the timer is saying it’s “on”

 

[uraceulose]

Ok got it. It wanted the blue/brown on NC1 and NC2.

Now off is on and on is off on the timer but that’s fine I may be able to even reverse the setting on the timer. Either way, all is working now and I have triple redundant shut off for the acid dispenser with WiFi control

 

[uraceulose]

Thanks again

 

[ajw22]

What wires are the yellow wirenut connecting?

There is a ground screw on the inside of the metal box that should be connected to the other ground wires.

 

[Jimrahbe]

It wanted the blue/brown on NC1 and NC2.

U,

I suspect that when you were shorting 240 volts through the # 1 relay, you damaged the Normally Open relay contacts.. That is why it did not work like it should.

Using the Normally closed contacts, just means that off is now on.. As far as your output voltage to the Hanna is concerned..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[uraceulose]

What wires are the yellow wirenut connecting?

There is a ground screw on the inside of the metal box that should be connected to the other ground wires.

I ran a copper wire from the bonding lug on the booster pump to the green/yellow wire on the BL-100 because the timer box is mounted to a wooden stud behind the sheetrock. That is what the yellow wire nut is connecting.

 

[ajw22]

I ran a copper wire from the bonding lug on the booster pump to the green/yellow wire on the BL-100 because the timer box is mounted to a wooden stud behind the sheetrock. That is what the yellow wire nut is connecting.

That is incorrect grounding. The green/yellow wire is a ground wire and not a bonding wire.

Bonding vs Grounding

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The power wires from the CB panel should include a ground wire connected to the panel ground bar. The green/yellow ground wire connects to the electrical ground wire. And it should also connect to the ground screw on the metal box. That way if the metal electrical box gets energized it will short to ground and not electrocute a person who touches it.