why do I keep getting bad read outs

[CWEB24]

I have a Hayward T15 cell less than 2 years old. I clean it regularly. after cleaning it this weekend and re installed it, the lights on the Aquaright controller continue to say Inspect cell, check salt I hold the button for the 3 seconds to reset the lights, and that does not turn them off like it is supposed to for the reset.
If I turn the controller off then turn it back to Auto the lights go off and then in 15 seconds or so the generating light comes on as it should
within 15 min that goes off and I get the two lights inspect cell, check salt again. My salt reading said 6000 before cleaning the cell, which is crazy and impossible. I had the water checked and it was 2300 still a little low. I just added two bags of salt this weekend as well. After cleaning and re installing cell the 6000 number went away. I have plenty of chlorine in the pool, so something is making the chlorine., I have added no shock at all. now today my salt reading is 1200 I don't get it.
How can you tell if the SWG is bad ? no calcium build up at all. Why would the generator work , then constantly re set. Is the computer bad ?
Circuit board. Is there a reset for the Aquaright unit to re calibrate itself ? nothing in the owner manual.
My water is perfectly clear too. I live in Fresno, and it is plenty hot here to zap chlorine, but that does not happen. any suggestions as to how to make the generator stay on and and make salt. I don't think adding 5-8 bags of salt is the answer
any input is appreciated
chris

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Report your diagnostic readings:

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

Tell us what equipment you have:

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

Check the Cell Performance:

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At 75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

At 60%, or lower in either polarity, I would consider the cell to be bad.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

Do your own salinity test:

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

@JamesW

 

[JamesW]

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

 

[JamesW]

Do you have a picture of the cell and box serial number and model number?

 

[CWEB24]

Welcome to TFP.

Report your diagnostic readings:

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

Tell us what equipment you have:

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

Check the Cell Performance:

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At 75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

At 60%, or lower in either polarity, I would consider the cell to be bad.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

Do your own salinity test:

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

@JamesW

James,
This was helpful My cell was on the wrong setting, those numbers are hard to read, they are not like the other numbers
I have pushed on/off super chlorinate, and pushed buttons so many times, I am sure i messed it up
Its back to normal again and my salt was 3200 and no more check salt or inspect cell
I think the less button pushing the better Chris