Why did they do it this way?

[JW9DVC]

Newer build. Yet the more I look at my setup. I scratch my head even more. Enough to go bald! Well more bald than before. I mean why 45 degree the skimmer side to the pump?

The rise and drop of pipe elevation after the pump and before the filter. Then from the filter to the future salt cell. No space for a check valve.

I’m thinking of moving the filter and turning the return.

Pump, filter, heater or at least prep for, check valve, salt cell, to pool.

They were supposed to plumb for a heater and/or solar. I’m thinking of a heat pump.

I’m also not a fan of the 2 way backwash valve. Need to replace the O rings already as we have an air leak. Thinking of a multiport valve.

Would love your thoughts and feedback.

 

[PoolStored]

I mean why 45 degree the skimmer side to the pump?

Because it was too close to the other pipes to put a 90 into the diverter. It is not an issue.

The rise and drop of pipe elevation after the pump and before the filter. Then from the filter to the future salt cell. No space for a check valve.

Rise and drop is to avoid a 90 coming out of the pump. Not necessary, but that is why they did it.
There is no need for a check valve after the filter.

I’m thinking of moving the filter and turning the return.

Why move the filter? What does "turning the return" mean?

Pump, filter, heater or at least prep for, check valve, salt cell, to pool.

Not sure what this means either.

They were supposed to plumb for a heater and/or solar. I’m thinking of a heat pump.

Heat pumps are nice, but may not extend the season much. Solar works good in parts of CA.

I’m also not a fan of the 2 way backwash valve. Need to replace the O rings already as we have an air leak. Thinking of a multiport valve.

Multi-ports are much nicer.

Would love your thoughts and feedback.

Done.
I wouldn't futz with the 45, or the up/down to filter. No need for check valve. MPVs are more better.

 

[JW9DVC]

Because it was too close to the other pipes to put a 90 into the diverter. It is not an issue.

Rise and drop is to avoid a 90 coming out of the pump. Not necessary, but that is why they did it.
There is no need for a check valve after the filter.

Why move the filter? What does "turning the return" mean?

Not sure what this means either.

Heat pumps are nice, but may not extend the season much. Solar works good in parts of CA.

Multi-ports are much nicer.

Done.
I wouldn't futz with the 45, or the up/down to filter. No need for check valve. MPVs are more better.

Thanks for your feedback.

A check valve before the salt cell. Not a fan of chlorine into a heater.

The 45 is dumb and should have been done on the vac line. Which is never used since we have a robot and manual vac from the skimmer.

This doesn’t have a dedicated floor inlet.

Will have to make some adjustments anyways when we add the multiport. Since none of this is pre plumbed for the heater. Hence the need for a check valve as mentioned.

 

[PoolStored]

A check valve before the salt cell. Not a fan of chlorine into a heater.

You are not understanding the issue. There is no need for a check valve with SWG. SWG should never make chlorine when the pump is not running. Check valves are for puck chlorinators. Even with check valves, a puck chlorinator will destroy the check valve and the heater, WHEN, not IF.

You need to have a way to ensure that SWG is off if pump is off to avoid explosions...chlorine will never get to the heater...Again, no need for check valve with SWG. Read section 1.4 here:

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[JW9DVC]

You are not understanding the issue. There is no need for a check valve with SWG. SWG should never make chlorine when the pump is not running. Check valves are for puck chlorinators. Even with check valves, a puck chlorinator will destroy the check valve and the heater, WHEN, not IF.

You need to have a way to ensure that SWG is off if pump is off to avoid explosions...chlorine will never get to the heater...Again, no need for check valve with SWG. Read section 1.4 here:

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks for ideas. Check valve or not. I’m not happy with the way they did the plumbing. Even if I went with an inline liquid chlorine feed. I would have a check valve. I’m just used to them I guess.

 

[PoolStored]

Inline LIQUID chlorine feeder wouldn't need a check valve either. An inline puck/tab feeder would need one, particularly with a heater, but even with the check valve, the valve will fail and so will the heater.

I would never have anyone install an inline puck chlorinator. If you are going to use pucks, use a floater. Period.

How they did the plumbing is TOTALLY up to you. Changing it will provide no functional improvement (45 and hump). Certainly the MPV is a great idea. You also need to have a way to plumb the flow switch for the SWG, and per section 1.4, you need a primary way to shut of SWG when pump is not running. Flow switch should be secondary.

 

[JW9DVC]

Inline LIQUID chlorine feeder wouldn't need a check valve either. An inline puck/tab feeder would need one, particularly with a heater, but even with the check valve, the valve will fail and so will the heater.

I would never have anyone install an inline puck chlorinator. If you are going to use pucks, use a floater. Period.

How they did the plumbing is TOTALLY up to you. Changing it will provide no functional improvement (45 and hump). Certainly the MPV is a great idea. You also need to have a way to plumb the flow switch for the SWG, and per section 1.4, you need a primary way to shut of SWG when pump is not running. Flow switch should be secondary.

Check valves will hold up to chlorine. I work in water. So probably why I’m a fan of them. They do make chemical resistant items that hold up well. At work I use 6-7 gallons per minute.

The cell will probably be a Hayward. So it will plumb into my Omni pl system with no problem.

Thanks for your input.

 

[proavia]

A check valve before the SWG is not needed as no chlorine is being produce if there is no flow with the pump is off.

If you will be installing a heater, you'd be better served plumbing in a proper heater bypass - which will use a 3-way Jandy valve and a quality check valve.

Changing the way the pad is presently plumbed will not add any efficiency to your plumbing system.

Honestly doesn't matter what you're used to - check valve isn't needed before the SWG.
I was used to a lot of pool related things before I found TFP. Now I use the TFP methods, my pool care is simple, sanitry and virtually trouble free - and requires very little time.

 

[JW9DVC]

A check valve before the SWG is not needed as no chlorine is being produce if there is no flow with the pump is off.

If you will be installing a heayer, you'd be better served plumbing in a proper heater bypass - which will use a 3-way Jandy valve and a quality check valve.

Changing the way the pad is presently plumbed will not add any efficiency to your plumbing system.

Honestly doesn't matter what you're used to - check valve isn't needed before the SWG.
I was used to a lot of pool related things before I found TFP. Now I use the TFP methods, my pool care is simple, sanitry and virtually trouble free - and requires very little time.

Thanks for your feedback. Been here 10 years. I know the way.

 

[PoolStored]

Check valves will hold up to chlorine.

Depends on the source of the "chlorine."

Liquid chlorine has a pH of 11-13...clearly not acidic. Check valve unnecessary.

For SWG...
At the anode (positive plate): 2Cl- → Cl2(g) + 2e-
At the cathode (negative plate): 2H2O + 2e- → H2(g) + 2OH-
which nets out to the following where the chlorine gas dissolves in water:
2H2O + 2Cl- → Cl2(g) + H2(g) + 2OH-
Cl2(g) + H2O → HOCl + H+ + Cl-
H+ + OH- → H2O
2H2O + Cl- → HOCl + OH- + H2(g)
or equivalently
H2O + Cl- → OCl- + H2(g)
The process is slightly basic.

Trichlor pucks...net reaction.
C₃Cl₃N₃O₃ + 3H₂O → C₃H₃N₃O₃ + 3H⁺ + 3OCl⁻
The H⁺ make this highly acidic. Pucks have a pH of about 2.9.

I would never recommend anyone install an inline puck chlorinator, check valve or not...especially with a heater. It will destroy the check valve, and heater, when, not if. I don't know what you deal with at work, but pool check valves will not protect anything, upstream, in a residential pool with a puck chlorinator.

 

[Newdude]

Floating tab dispensers cost $14 and cannot damage the equipment. If it breaks, lol and buy the one with the funny looking flamingo on it for the next one.