White water mold??? And trying to get chemistry correct before adding salt for new SWCG

[Tel]

We were changing over to SWCG and before adding salt, we found we had extremely high CYA level tested at 2 different pool supply companies 150 ppm, plus a paper strip test. The pool has been maintained weekly by a pool service so we never checked the numbers until now. We have just ordered the TF-100 kit online XL plus salt strips, so we can start taking care of the pool ourselves.

‘Our new Hayward SWCG manual states that it is a special requirement to keep the CYA level between 30 to 50 ppm, ideal level 40 ppm. I notice your recommendations for SWCG pools is a much higher CYA level of 60-90 ppm. Why is your recommended level so much higher?

We started doing the drain and fill to reduce the CYA level. The pool supplier tested it today at 125 ppm.

We also noticed last night a big glob of stringy, slimy whitish/gray material around the pool/skimmer area. It fell apart when trying to remove it. I captured a piece of it and will attach a photo. Is this white mold?

Here are our numbers today from pool supply co.
Tc 3ppm
Fc 3 ppm
Cc 0 ppm
Ph 7.6
Ta 125 ppm
Ch 450
CYA 125 ppm
TDS 1400 ppm
Salt 800 ppm

Should we be adding chlorine for possible mold, while draining and filling process is going on?

I am so glad glad to have found this site and forum! I really appreciate all the information and assistance.

 

[cowboycasey]

Welcome to TFP

We are very glad you found us also...

The very first thing I would do is wait for your TF 100 to arrive so you can know exactly what you are working with... Pool stores and strips are the furthest thing from knowing anything, they are guess strips and guess people...

You can start by pouring 1 gallon of liquid chlorine into your pool per day until your TF 100 arrives, then we can get busy doing a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test if you pass that we are done and can continue on with your numbers.. if you do not pass the OCLT then we SLAM SLAM Process.. This will get rid of anything growing in your pool...

I know you ordered the salt test strips but you really need the K 1766 drop salt test kit, it is way better, remember what I said about the guess strips.. Amazon.com : TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-1766 DROP TEST CHLORIDE SALT WATER : Swimming Pool Liquid Test Kits : Garden & Outdoor

The 60 to 90 CYA is to make your SWG work less and your hard earned chlorine to work harder and longer in your pool... CYA is sunscreen for the chlorine, the higher it is the longer your free chlorine lasts.. Another trick I use is to keep your Free Chlorine level between 7 and 9, it makes your SWG work a little longer but I never worry about my pool turning green, ever..

Great job on your signature

 

[wireform]

What they said above, you've been doing as so many are which is following the pool guys advice but sooner then later something leads you to believe things aren't quite right. So great move on your part by turning to TFP. Nothing drasitic to do until the test kit arrives other then the advice you already got. Hang in, we've got your back.

 

[Tel]

Thanks so much for the instructions! I will wait for test kit, and also order salt test kit, and add liquid chlorine.

 

[mguzzy]

Hi Tel.. And welcome to the Forum.

If you read much stuff here you will see we are big on you testing your own water. It provides a common foundation for discussing your pool Chem and store testing is just to inconsistent. So we won't really make any recommendations until we see those test results. But if the results match up, be prepared to drain off some more water to get your CYA level down. The higher it is the less effective you chlorine is. I have no idea what creature you have captured.. but getting your FC under control may deal with it on its own. THEN when everything is purring we will walk you through bringing your SWG online. There is no point in doing that until we have the rest of the chemistry in check!

 

[RTamanda]

We were changing over to SWCG and before adding salt, we found we had extremely high CYA level tested at 2 different pool supply companies 150 ppm, plus a paper strip test. The pool has been maintained weekly by a pool service so we never checked the numbers until now. We have just ordered the TF-100 kit online XL plus salt strips, so we can start taking care of the pool ourselves.

‘Our new Hayward SWCG manual states that it is a special requirement to keep the CYA level between 30 to 50 ppm, ideal level 40 ppm. I notice your recommendations for SWCG pools is a much higher CYA level of 60-90 ppm. Why is your recommended level so much higher?

We started doing the drain and fill to reduce the CYA level. The pool supplier tested it today at 125 ppm.

We also noticed last night a big glob of stringy, slimy whitish/gray material around the pool/skimmer area. It fell apart when trying to remove it. I captured a piece of it and will attach a photo. Is this white mold?

Here are our numbers today from pool supply co.
Tc 3ppm
Fc 3 ppm
Cc 0 ppm
Ph 7.6
Ta 125 ppm
Ch 450
CYA 125 ppm
TDS 1400 ppm
Salt 800 ppm

Should we be adding chlorine for possible mold, while draining and filling process is going on?

I am so glad glad to have found this site and forum! I really appreciate all the information and assistance.

I have that white slimy stuff in my skimmer boxes upon opening each year. I have no idea what it honestly is, but SLAM kills it. I have a cleaning brush that as soon as I get my filter running, I brush the heck out of every millimeter of my skimmer boxes, inside and out. Lots of biofilm forms in and around the housing. Continue to SLAM and brush until my OCLT is good!

 

[Tel]

Okay, got the TF 100 numbers. Water is clear. Water temp 78. We are wanting to balance the numbers so we can then add salt and start up SWCG. The pool company had left behind a bottle of SeaKlear stain prevention and remover that they were using. We do have about a dozen small stain spots on the plaster steps that appear to be rust. Do we need a metal test? Where should we start? Thanks so much!

pH 8.2
FC 2
CC .5
CH 325
TA 180
CYA 30

 

[wireform]

Fc too low even for non SWCG pool. Current cya has a target of 4-6 and the latter is better.
Ph is high and needs MA to lower to 7.2 then aerate back up to mid 7s, TA will come down slowly wit MA additions to lower PH. Cya needs to be in the 70-80 range for SWCG.

 

[mguzzy]

Howdy:
FC is too low.. you need to bring that up.
CYA is too low for a salt pool, that needs to be around 70pmm follow this FC/CYA Levels
pH is also high.. so throw in some MA..
Basically what @wireform said!

Check out this nifty tool:

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

But I wouldn't let that stop you from getting the SWG installed. Keep us posted!

 

[cowboycasey]

lets bring the FC up to 8 today, then tonight do an OCLT Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

If you pass the OCLT then we can add CYA and salt, if it does not pass we can go from there...

 

[Tel]

Thanks for the help, everyone!

We put in MA to lower to pH to 7.6 for a start. Have added chlorine to raise FC to 8 and will do overnight test tonight.

Do we need to test for metals, or just observe pool surface for any new signs of small stain spots?

 

[cowboycasey]

I would love to help but metals are not my thing

 

[mguzzy]

This is about the only time we recommend you go to a pool store, for a metals test. Just make sure they don't sell you any magic beans.

 

[Tel]

Did the OCLT and it looks good. Will start today with the process of adding MA to lower pH to 7.2 and areation, to lower TA gradually. Will add CYA to 70ppm. Will add salt. Will keep FC at target. Is there anything else that needs to be done?

pH. 7.8
FC 9
CC .5
TA. 180
CYA. 50

OCLT test showed FC went from 9.5 to 9With a CC of .5 both tests

About the CYA test: I came across the more detailed instructions with the black dot test pictures. I found out that I didn’t do my first couple tests correctly because I was making sure nothing at all was visible in the bottom of the tube. It might be helpful for other newbies like myself if those black dot test pictures with the very clear rounding up instructions were on your initial CYA instruction page. Otherwise, too much CYA will be added.

Thanks so much for the help!