I have this white flaky substance in the water. I just converted to salt a week ago. Calcium? How do I prevent and does it mean something is very wrong?
White flaky substance
- Thread starter 6XSBChamps
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Chemistry data?
If your CSI is above 0, your SWCG can create calcium scale and shed them at polarity reversal.
What SWCG do you have? Please add that to your signature.
If your CSI is above 0, your SWCG can create calcium scale and shed them at polarity reversal.
What SWCG do you have? Please add that to your signature.
I haven’t done my CSI calculation. But let’s say it’s over 1 and I’m creating calcium scale. What’s the fix? I also don’t even know what my SWCG is. I assume I can find that out by asking the builder. They converted me to salt last week and said they’ll be in touch to see if I have any questions. Since then I’ve just been keeping ch and ph balanced
- May 3, 2014
- 58,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Post a picture of the SWCG.
To adjust CSI, you manage pH, TA, and CH. Typically lowering TA will reduce scaling in the cell.
Do you have your own proper test kit?
To adjust CSI, you manage pH, TA, and CH. Typically lowering TA will reduce scaling in the cell.
Do you have your own proper test kit?
Thanks, as always. I’ll get a pic in the morning. Other than annoying flakes is there any harm being done right now that I should be losing sleep over?
I read some other stuff where there was talk of needing to drain and refill. Please tell me that’s not gonna be needed
I read some other stuff where there was talk of needing to drain and refill. Please tell me that’s not gonna be needed
- May 3, 2014
- 58,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Are you getting scale flakes? What is a full set of water chemistry data? How are you testing your water chemistry?
Yes I’m getting scale flakes. I will take the water to the pool store for a full test today. Right now I only have the Pentair all in one test kit. I know I need to upgrade
- May 3, 2014
- 58,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Get your own proper test kit. Pool store tests are not accurate.
You have a Jandy Fusion Soft. Be sure the mineral cartridge is NOT installed.
You have a Jandy Fusion Soft. Be sure the mineral cartridge is NOT installed.
To help with this issue I've read to flush out the salt cell and cool it by running the pump after the salt cell shuts off. How do I shut the salt cell off? Do I set it at 0% and I assume that shuts the salt cell off?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Calcium Flakes in Saltwater Pools
Saltwater pools often have white flakes in them. They are calcium flakes that form in the salt chlorine generator. This article explains why it happens.
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blog.orendatech.com
2. Flush out and cool the salt cell with circulation
Part of the problem with salt cells forming so much scale was described earlier in this article. Namely, salt cells generate heat and a high pH byproduct. Most scale forms right after the salt cell and circulation pump shut off. So to fix this problem, simply run the pump for a few minutes after the salt cell shuts off. This will flush the high pH chemistry from the cell, and the circulating water will help cool it down too. This dramatically reduces the chances of scale formation by rapidly lowering the LSI back to normal range (assuming your pool is LSI-balanced, of course).
Oly
Gold Supporter
Start by knowing your water chemistry, get a good kit and learn to use it. Adjust your water to reduce calcium scaling within your cell. High scale in your cell will require frequent cell cleaning and reduce the FC production. Protect your equipment investment with a good test kit, this is the foundation.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
They are reaching there. pH does rise during chlorine generation within the cell.
Do as you like. Without a proper test kit, you are guessing. Good luck.
Do as you like. Without a proper test kit, you are guessing. Good luck.
the mere fact I'm on a message board asking for input means I'm hoping for more than luck. I mentioned what I read to see if it was a valid solution. sorry if it offended you. I'm working on getting a better test kit.
Last edited:
Stoopalini
Gold Supporter
- Jun 8, 2020
- 590
- Pool Size
- 14060
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You're asking for help from experts, but you're also asking them to guess ... Here at TFP, the experts will not guess, but will provide help when the data they need to know to do so, is known.
Without accurate test results, any solution to your problem, and ... even the problem itself ... would be pure guesswork.
Marty wasn't offended, but is reacting to you asking him to guess at a treatment plan without having the info he needs to provide one. The experts here are too mature to be so easily offended.
This place will provide you with the most accurate info anywhere, due to the TFP methodology being based on proven science. The experts here are well versed in their respective fields, and the result is a methodology which works very, very well ... and does so with minimal $$ and time requirement.
Pool store testing is not accurate, and neither are test strips ... at least not accurate enough to support the TFP methodology. This website isn't a "general pool care help forum", but is specific to the TFP methodology; which in my opinion, is the absolute best approach to pool maintenance.
The past year has cost me about $200 in total cost, and about 30mins a week, to maintain perfectly clear water in my salt pool through the TFP methodology. If I were following the pool store methodology, I could probably add another 0 to the end of the $200 number, and most definitely add a bunch more time; not only driving back and forth to the pool store, but the time adding potions into the water ... never mind the lost swimming time due to having a green pool.
Get a good test kit, take a full set of readings, and post back with the results. The guys here will give you the best advice and guidance anywhere on the net. If you follow the TFP approach, you will have a very troublefree pool, which cost you a few hundred dollars a year to maintain
In terms of your white flakes ... I experience them in my salt pool as well, but it is not scaling in the cell. Mine are due to the moss rock around my coping. The chlorine bleaches the moss, and it falls into the water periodically, and floats on the top. I' not saying yours isn't calcium scaling inside the cell, just pointing out there can be other causes for this sort of thing. The test results will guide the experts into giving you great advice on it though ...
Without accurate test results, any solution to your problem, and ... even the problem itself ... would be pure guesswork.
Marty wasn't offended, but is reacting to you asking him to guess at a treatment plan without having the info he needs to provide one. The experts here are too mature to be so easily offended.
This place will provide you with the most accurate info anywhere, due to the TFP methodology being based on proven science. The experts here are well versed in their respective fields, and the result is a methodology which works very, very well ... and does so with minimal $$ and time requirement.
Pool store testing is not accurate, and neither are test strips ... at least not accurate enough to support the TFP methodology. This website isn't a "general pool care help forum", but is specific to the TFP methodology; which in my opinion, is the absolute best approach to pool maintenance.
The past year has cost me about $200 in total cost, and about 30mins a week, to maintain perfectly clear water in my salt pool through the TFP methodology. If I were following the pool store methodology, I could probably add another 0 to the end of the $200 number, and most definitely add a bunch more time; not only driving back and forth to the pool store, but the time adding potions into the water ... never mind the lost swimming time due to having a green pool.
Get a good test kit, take a full set of readings, and post back with the results. The guys here will give you the best advice and guidance anywhere on the net. If you follow the TFP approach, you will have a very troublefree pool, which cost you a few hundred dollars a year to maintain
In terms of your white flakes ... I experience them in my salt pool as well, but it is not scaling in the cell. Mine are due to the moss rock around my coping. The chlorine bleaches the moss, and it falls into the water periodically, and floats on the top. I' not saying yours isn't calcium scaling inside the cell, just pointing out there can be other causes for this sort of thing. The test results will guide the experts into giving you great advice on it though ...
I do appreciate it. you may be on to something. I do have calcium on my coping which may be a cause as well.You're asking for help from experts, but you're also asking them to guess ... Here at TFP, the experts will not guess, but will provide help when the data they need to know to do so, is known.
Without accurate test results, any solution to your problem, and ... even the problem itself ... would be pure guesswork.
Marty wasn't offended, but is reacting to you asking him to guess at a treatment plan without having the info he needs to provide one. The experts here are too mature to be so easily offended.
This place will provide you with the most accurate info anywhere, due to the TFP methodology being based on proven science. The experts here are well versed in their respective fields, and the result is a methodology which works very, very well ... and does so with minimal $$ and time requirement.
Pool store testing is not accurate, and neither are test strips ... at least not accurate enough to support the TFP methodology. This website isn't a "general pool care help forum", but is specific to the TFP methodology; which in my opinion, is the absolute best approach to pool maintenance.
The past year has cost me about $200 in total cost, and about 30mins a week, to maintain perfectly clear water in my salt pool through the TFP methodology. If I were following the pool store methodology, I could probably add another 0 to the end of the $200 number, and most definitely add a bunch more time; not only driving back and forth to the pool store, but the time adding potions into the water ... never mind the lost swimming time due to having a green pool.
Get a good test kit, take a full set of readings, and post back with the results. The guys here will give you the best advice and guidance anywhere on the net. If you follow the TFP approach, you will have a very troublefree pool, which cost you a few hundred dollars a year to maintain
In terms of your white flakes ... I experience them in my salt pool as well, but it is not scaling in the cell. Mine are due to the moss rock around my coping. The chlorine bleaches the moss, and it falls into the water periodically, and floats on the top. I' not saying yours isn't calcium scaling inside the cell, just pointing out there can be other causes for this sort of thing. The test results will guide the experts into giving you great advice on it though ...
a better test kit is next on the list
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,219
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
If the pH and TA are accurate, your problem is likely high pH and TA combined with high water temps. Get yourself a TF-100 kit, Taylor K-1766 salt test kit, and Speedstir. You'll get the problem fixed with accurate test results.
Good luck!
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