Where to start with pool math app and a SWG

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r2sie2

Gold Supporter
May 8, 2021
115
Southern California 91406
Pool Size
11000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hi I have a brand new pool with a SWG that was just turned on. It’s still being taken care of by the builders pool guy but I want to start getting more comfortable as I’m going to be doing this myself. I’ve read through a ton of posts, pool school, and the sticky here for beginners. I’m still just kind of lost on where I need to start.

Couple things that are binding me up right now.

When I configured my pool I put that it’s a salt water pool, but there was no Salt level on the main screen. I found a setting to turn on for track salt but I’m thinking maybe I configured it wrong. Wouldn’t it automatically track salt on a salt water pool? It’s also asking for target numbers, but the rest automatically populate, not salt for some reason. What should I put in there?

I’m a little worried that I may not be able to decipher changes in color? The yellow chlorine tester block maybe has a super slight change in darkness but not enough to confidently decipher between .5 and 5. Is this just a quick test to make sure there is at least some chlorine. Or are my eyes bad and I should do a different test? I believe there is a more accurate test I can do with the kit?

I have the TF-Pro *Salt with SmartStir-for pools with SWG kit
 
r2sie2 said:
ouldn’t it automatically track salt on a salt water pool?
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No. You need to enable Salt.
r2sie2 said:
What should I put in there?
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Depends on the range your SWCG requires. There are differences.
r2sie2 said:
The yellow chlorine tester
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In reality, you will very rarely ever use that. I use it when I get a weird FAS-DPD result.
r2sie2 said:
Is this just a quick test to make sure there is at least some chlorine.
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Correct. So do the FAS-DPD test to get the actual FC level.
 
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mknauss said:
No. You need to enable Salt.

Depends on the range your SWCG requires. There are differences.

In reality, you will very rarely ever use that. I use it when I get a weird FAS-DPD result.

Correct. So do the FAS-DPD test to get the actual FC level.
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FAS-DPD test, is that the one using r-0870 and r-0871? The card has it listed as chlorine drop test. Thanks!
 
Ok so my ph is low at 6.8, but it was high before the pool guy came so I’m guessing it’s going to climb back up being a new build?

My chlorine level was 0 before he came now it’s at .5 I’m guessing it’s going to take a while for the level to come up now that we just started the swg?

Salt level is at 2800, how would I go about finding the level that I need? Is this dependent on what SWG I have or something? I did put into the app what cell I have but it still didn’t give any recommendations.
 
mknauss said:
Yes. Fill out your signature so we can help.
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Hey I’m sorry I can’t figure out how to get my signature to populate when I post. This is what I put

11k gallon, plaster, Hayward aqua-rite t-15, Hayward Tristar vs 900 pump, Pentair filter. Features 2 bubblers, 6 spa jets along bench which are returns (naturally aspirated no blower)
 

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mknauss said:
A good read for those with a Hayward SWCG

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Maintain the salinity in the lower part of the range, around 3000 ppm, as the Aquarite board will last longer that way.
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That’s a lot of great info thanks. I’m the OmniLogic app it shows “average salt 2929 PPM” should I just leave it alone and let it do it’s thing?
 
Sure. Be sure you have a salinity test kit such as the Taylor K1766. As you read in the Wiki, you need the actual salinity to track the life of the SWCG cell.
 
What is your CYA level?
Use the FC/CYA Levels setfor a SWG pool and dose pool with liquid chlorine to get to the higher end of the target number. SWG are good for maintaining FC levels but not good to quickly raise the FC level to get you to target range. Adding liquid chlorine will get you to target NOW - as you don't want to leave FC low and get algae.
 
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mknauss said:
Sure. Be sure you have a salinity test kit such as the Taylor K1766. As you read in the Wiki, you need the actual salinity to track the life of the SWCG cell.
Click to expand...
Yes I tested that earlier I got the salt test add on with the kit. Salt is at 2800. I just don’t really understand the app when it says average salt 2929 ppm if that’s like a setting or if it’s actually measuring the salt in the water. It does seem to coincide with my actual test with the kit
 
proavia said:
What is your CYA level?
Use the FC/CYA Levels setfor a SWG pool and dose pool with liquid chlorine to get to the higher end of the target number. SWG are good for maintaining FC levels but not good to quickly raise the FC level to get you to target range. Adding liquid chlorine will get you to target NOW - as you don't want to leave FC low and get algae.
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Unfortunately I didn’t have time to do that today before going to with but I’ll do it first thing tomorrow. There is an option for super chlorinate is that maybe something I should run to get it up in the meantime before I’m able to get any liquid chlorine?
 
Add enough liquid chlorine to get you to FC 5. Do that ASAP - you don't want to get a nascent algae bloom.

We don't recommend using super chlorinate. It uses up cell life unnecessarily and also doesn't raise the FC fast enough.

After you measure CYA, get yout SWG target level from the FC/CYA Levels.
Also, use PoolMath and share your logs here. Much easier than havi g to post the test results when we ask.
 
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mknauss said:
The Hayward SWCG does not measure the salt level in the water. Read the Wiki article,

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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I read that but that’s why I’m confused how it has a ppm in the app. Salinity is the amount of salt in the pool right? I’m assuming when it says divide the instant salinity with the actual salinity the instant is what it’s saying in the app? So say the instant salinity is 3000 and my actual is 2000 then I would just need to add more salt. So how would that determine if a cell is bad? I’m missing something obvious I know but I’m not getting it

Edit: I just read it again and I think I understand better now. So even though it doesn’t have a salt salinity sensor it’s still measuring salt in a different way. So the reading in the app is in line with my measurements so all is good
 
Last edited:
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proavia said:
Add enough liquid chlorine to get you to FC 5. Do that ASAP - you don't want to get a nascent algae bloom.

We don't recommend using super chlorinate. It uses up cell life unnecessarily and also doesn't raise the FC fast enough.

After you measure CYA, get yout SWG target level from the FC/CYA Levels.
Also, use PoolMath and share your logs here. Much easier than havi g to post the test results when we ask.
Click to expand...

Will do tomorrow thanks. Sorry I posted this prematurely I should have had all of the numbers first. Thanks
 
So they had my chlorinator set point at 20%, I raised it to 50% and am going to let it run overnight. Pool water is 80 degrees F and a nighttime low of 58F

When I get home tomorrow I’ll run all of the tests including CYA and then if I need to I’ll go to the store and pick up liquid chlorine.

Does this sound like a proper plan?
 

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