Where To Plumb in SWG

Xentex

0
Bronze Supporter
Apr 14, 2018
33
Devon, PA
Pool Size
33000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Prefix: I'm new to all this. Recently bought a house with an 18 year old broken Jandy One Touch system on a pool/spa combination. I completely replaced the 18 year old Jandy control box and added an iAqualink last weekend (my Saturday) and replaced the filter pump with a Pentair Inteliflo VSF (my Sunday, in the rain). Next weekend I'm planning to put on the SWG.

Issue: there's not enough room between the heater and the return diverter valve (switching between pool and spa return) to install the SWG. There's about 10 inches of clear space and I need about 16 minimum. This leaves me three options I'm trying to decide between.

1) Install the SWG on the pool return and rely on going into spillover mode to get chlorine into the spa. I think this is my preferred option.

2) Move the heater about 8 inches, which would allow me space to put the SWG immediately after the heater, before the pool/spa return valve.

3) Install the SWG before the heater. (Almost everyone says not to, and the Jandy SWG doesn't appear to be designed for upward water flow and that's how I'd have to mount it.)

I was initially planning to move the heater, since I think option 2 is really more ideal, but after doing some work to get the heater operating again I'm having second thoughts. While clearing out the rat nests inside the heater (hadn't been used in 3 years) I discovered the base of the unit is pretty rusted. Like crumbling in your hand kind of rusted. The unit itself looks good, and the burner tray still seems fine (after I replaced the pilot igniter). It all seems very stable except for the sheet metal on the very bottom. So what I'm afraid of is that trying to slide it sideways even 8 inches, or picking it up and moving it 8 inches, could result in a broken heater.

After thinking about it, I don't think putting the SWG on the pool return will pose any kind of problem for keeping water sanitary, since I'll just set it up to cycle the water in the spa regularly. But then I started wondering if I can set up the iAqualink controller to always shut off the SWG when the system goes into Spa or Spillover mode. I know there's a flow sensor on the SWG that's supposed to automatically turn it off if water flow stops, but I don't really like having to count on that working right when I'm at work and the kids/wife/mother-in-law/babysitter are at home messing with things.

Before installing the iAqualink I figured configuring it for this "only run SWG in Pool mode" would be easy. But at the moment I can't figure out how to do it. It's not at all intuitive to me at the moment how to even define these operating modes (e.g., Pool, Spa, Spillover). After going through all the programming menus I can't seem to figure out how to set the suction and return valves positions for different modes. I do see some references to dip switches in the manual, and did see a whole bunch of dip switches on the boards, but nowhere in the install manual is there a list of what they all do. I'm wondering if I have to adjust some of of those for it to recognize my setup (pool+spa, shared filter pump).
 
I'll bump your thread and maybe spark a TFP Expert's interest. In the meantime, a couple of things to consider.

Your automation controller, SWG and pump should all be of the same brand. If you think automation might be in your future, then you might need to rethink your purchases.

A TFP expert will need to weigh in on how to chlorinate a pool/spa combo when there is a spill-over, which no doubt complicates the issue. My automation is capable of running spa and pool as separate bodies, but with a common set of equipment, including SWG. There are separate heater, SWG and filter settings for both pool mode and spa mode. (So you could have different temps and FC levels in each.) Not sure how the spillover messes with that capability. Personally, I wouldn't have a spa that spills into the pool, it's problematic for the reason I just mentioned, but also messes with pH. I know they look great, but at what cost.

The point being: I'm guessing that plumbing your SWG to only provide chlorine to the pool will not be the optimal setup. And the SWG should be last in line before the pool/spa return valve. Definitely NOT before the heater. I believe #2 is your only option, or if you don't want to move the heater, then at least add the necessary PVC to place that SWG between heater and return. Go up, or around, or whatever it takes. Check the install manual: my SWG requires about 12" of uninterrupted pipe before the SWG, to optimize flow though the unit. Some heater warranties require a check valve between heater and SWG, so that's another thing to fit in. I'm adding an acid injection system to my setup, that's yet another component that mounts between heater and SWG. So even if you can barely fit an SWG with one of your schemes, you might consider routing the plumbing such that you can have plenty of room for expansion in that section of your system. And you should always plumb in extra pipe, so you can cut things out and replace things and put it back together with couplers.

Show us some pics. Keep asking your questions. Do it right the first time, you'll be glad you did...
 
Here's a link to a photo of the plumbing coming out of the heater: Shared album - Mike Widner - Google Photos

My automation controller, SWG, and valves are all Jandy. The pumps are Pentair, but the Jandy stuff talks to and controls the pumps perfectly well.

My setup will run pool and spa as separate bodies as well if I configure it that way. I guess I didn't expect that to be "normal", given the waterfall thing from the spa to the pool. I just assumed "normal" operation of this kind of setup would be managing the chemistry for the pool and just having the automation set up to cycle new water into the spa every day.

What's the benefit of keeping the spa water as a separate body? Seems like then I'd have to manage water chemistry for two different bodies, or basically double my work.
 
1) Install the SWG on the pool return and rely on going into spillover mode to get chlorine into the spa. I think this is my preferred option.
If your pool and spa shares the same water then option# 1 is a no brainer!
Not an expert and no love for automation here, but this is exactly how I installed our SWCG. However, we do have a spa make-up valve but you can do without. I run the pump in pool mode at low speed just to satisfy the flow switch. As a result, the spillover just trickles and slide over the edge. Not an issue on high speed, though!

I only switch to spa mode to warm it up. No flow to the SC but still, I turn it off. I don't think you would want to over chlorinate your spa!
 
So I believe your saying you have 3 ways to run your system but I only see one automated valve.

1) Pool only
2) Spa Only
3 spillover (now does this only pump water into the spa or do the jets in the pool also have water flowing through them?)

you can mount the aqua pure vertically. I just did this but fortunately had more room. You need to first go up and then flow down into the swg. Also the pump should be wired to the line side of the relay (always have power) and the swg panel gets wired to the load side of the relay.

As for setting the aquapure once it’s installed and the pump is running you can set the percentages. Click Menu > Set Auqupure (you should be able to see the button now it just won’t work). I have pool set to 45% currently and Spa set to 0% so no chlorine is generated in spa mode.

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You may want to consider replumbing a bit if you don’t want to move the heater
 
Here's a link to a photo of the plumbing coming out of the heater: Shared album - Mike Widner - Google Photos

My automation controller, SWG, and valves are all Jandy. The pumps are Pentair, but the Jandy stuff talks to and controls the pumps perfectly well.

My setup will run pool and spa as separate bodies as well if I configure it that way. I guess I didn't expect that to be "normal", given the waterfall thing from the spa to the pool. I just assumed "normal" operation of this kind of setup would be managing the chemistry for the pool and just having the automation set up to cycle new water into the spa every day.

What's the benefit of keeping the spa water as a separate body? Seems like then I'd have to manage water chemistry for two different bodies, or basically double my work.

Oh, yah, those return valves are very close to the heater. So move the heater, and/or make a U that'll give you the room you need.

I'm surprised to hear your Jandy controller can run Pentair pumps. That's news to me. As in access all the variable speeds, and give you feedback about RPM and flow and watts? Great.

I'd be out of my element to advise how to run pool and spa. But off the top of my head I'd say the benefit of keeping the spa separate is so you could heat the spa without heating the pool, especially in winter. And you could retain the spa heat without dumping it out through the overflow. Like with a cover. Or maybe you want a little extra chlorine in the spa.
 
If your pool and spa shares the same water then option# 1 is a no brainer!
I only switch to spa mode to warm it up. No flow to the SC but still, I turn it off.

I'm leaning more toward going that way the more I think about this, where I live (outside Philadelphia), and my operating season (late May to late September).

Those return valves are very close to the heater. So move the heater, and/or make a U that'll give you the room you need.

Yes, they're close and those are the options if I want the SWG to hit both the pool and spa. Problem is the U requires adding four 90 degree elbows. That's a lot of head for what feels like a minimal benefit if I'm going to operate them as a single body of water anyway.

I'd try moving the heater before adding the U. And realistically I'm not sure how many more years I'm going to get out of an 18 year old heater, so maybe my safe option is to let the heater carry me until it dies, then when I have to replace it I can move it back and put the SWG where I actually want it.

I'm surprised to hear your Jandy controller can run Pentair pumps.

Yup. The current Jandy controllers are good like that. The only limitation is that I have to choose whether the Jandy treats it as a VS or VF pump. I set it up for variable speed, and my only real limitation is I have to pick 8 speeds and live with those (which isn't much of a limit). It also plays well with Pentair and Hayward color pool and Spa LEDs, allowing you to pick the colors off a menu and handling the "cycle power 12 times to turn it blue" stuff for you.

So I believe your saying you have 3 ways to run your system but I only see one automated valve.

As for setting the aquapure once it’s installed and the pump is running you can set the percentages.

Yes, there's a second valve for the suction side not shown in my photo. Good to know about the setup options. I can see the "Set AquaPure" menu option but can't actually do anything with it right now without the SWG actually connected. Sounds like setting it to zero for Spa mode will accomplish what I was concerned about.

I'd say the benefit of keeping the spa separate is so you could heat the spa without heating the pool, especially in winter. And you could retain the spa heat without dumping it out through the overflow. Like with a cover.


If I lived in a different climate or had a different physical layout I'd like that. Realistically, though, my spa is literally 100 feet from my back door. My practical pool season is mid-May to mid-September. Maybe I could squeeze an extra month out of the spa if I covered the pool in mid-Sept but certainly no longer than that. Still, if I wanted to do that I could just do manually add chlorine or use a floater basket.
 
I set it up for variable speed, and my only real limitation is I have to pick 8 speeds and live with those (which isn't much of a limit).

I believe you’re talking about the 8 presets. When in the web interface and you click vsp pump you should see a key pad to the right. You can type in a number, hit enter and the pump should change to that speed. The Jandy pump I have does at least.

It does limit you to 8 speeds if you use the scheduling tool.
 
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