When to do first test after install

FireBeard

Member
Jul 9, 2020
8
Piedmont, OK
Hello All!

I'm loving all the information I have stumbled across on this site, so first off thanks! I am brand new to the pool world and having a 24' ABG pool installed a week from today.
I try my best to research and hope to be ready as soon as possible to swim once it's installed. I have a couple questions off the bat.
  1. Do I need to wait any specific amount of time once pool is filled with water to start testing with the TF-100 kit?
  2. Out of preparation, I purchased some chemicals based on information I've found on this site (Listed below). Is this a good start?
    1. (5) gal Chlorinating Liquid (Pool Essentials 10% | Walmart), (2) 20 Mule Team Borax boxes (Walmart), 4lb Chlorine Stablizer 100% Cyanuric Acid (Walmart)
Lastly, I have been given the option of burying pool up to 24". I'm considering only burying 12" and mainly for aesthetics with fence line and such.
Researched and don't feel an issue since it's rated for up to 2 1/2ft. However, any major con to doing this? I plan on doing it but have time to change my mind.

Again thanks for all the help!
-Brandon
 
Welcome to TFP.

You can begin testing pH and TA immediately upon filling.

Then add your chlorine and stabilizer.

Begin your pool care schedule and testing 24 hours later.

 
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Welcome to TFP.

You can begin testing pH and TA immediately upon filling.

Then add your chlorine and stabilizer.

Begin your pool care schedule and testing 24 hours later.


Thanks Allen! Appreciate the link. I actually searched but guess I missed this one.
 
Test your tap water. It's good for practice and that way you know the parameters of the water you're adding to the pool.

For pH, TA and CH.

Don't waste your reagents testing for CYA or chlorine.
 
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For pH, TA and CH.

Don't waste your reagents testing for CYA or chlorine.

So I did the standard tests and all pretty good there except when doing Akalanity for 100ppm standard I actually had to put 12 drops instead of 10. Also, when I tested my sink water I had to put 16-17 drops to turn pink. My PH is about 7.3. So do I have too high of alkalinity? How normal is that?
 
So I did the standard tests and all pretty good there except when doing Akalanity for 100ppm standard I actually had to put 12 drops instead of 10.

See the Notes in Total Alkalinity - Trouble Free Pool
  • Sometimes a static electric charge can build up on the R-0009 dropper bottle tip, causing the drops to be smaller than usual and making the test read higher than actual. You can prevent this by wipping the tip of the dropper bottle with a damp cloth or tissue before you start and after each drop.
  • Hold the dropper bottles vertically and squeeze gently, so that drops come out slowly and seem to hang on the tip of the dropper bottle for a moment before falling.
Drop size matters for the TA test and you were producing smaller drops then standard. You need to practice your drop size technique.

Also, when I tested my sink water I had to put 16-17 drops to turn pink. My PH is about 7.3. So do I have too high of alkalinity? How normal is that?

TA of 160-170 or a bit lower once you tune up your drop size is not unusual.
 
From that TA reading, I'll say you will only need to have chlorine, CYA, and muriatic acid standing by.

Copying my advice to someone else Once it's full, fire up the pump and leak check things. If it's all holding, add 3 FC. Then mess around with the sock and the stabilizer. Then grab a sample and test pH. If it's good, you can add kids. If it's off, test TA and decide if you need to raise TA before pH, or just go straight to pH adjustments. Fix that, then add kids. Depending on results, it'll take anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour to get things balanced and swimmable.

Ignore the part about TA -- yours will be fine. Just test pH because it may have risen some while filling. If it's over 8, lower it to 7.2 now and get a head start on TA reduction. Otherwise you'll be messing with pH again in two days. You still might!
 
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See the Notes in Total Alkalinity - Trouble Free Pool
  • Sometimes a static electric charge can build up on the R-0009 dropper bottle tip, causing the drops to be smaller than usual and making the test read higher than actual. You can prevent this by wipping the tip of the dropper bottle with a damp cloth or tissue before you start and after each drop.
  • Hold the dropper bottles vertically and squeeze gently, so that drops come out slowly and seem to hang on the tip of the dropper bottle for a moment before falling.
Drop size matters for the TA test and you were producing smaller drops then standard. You need to practice your drop size technique.



TA of 160-170 or a bit lower once you tune up your drop size is not unusual.

Thanks, I did actually make sure to follow all that and wiped with damp rag each drop and was holding vertical. One thing I realized however is that my water softener was still active so that may throw off some things not sure.
 
Hello all! I figured I would post a response to original thread. I have my pool filled and had first official tests done. I used the TF100 kit and also took sample to Leslie’s Pool Supply for free 9 point test.

Please see attached pics of both. Obviously a little different results and WAY different solutions and just need sound advice as this is first pool

Here’s what Leslie said I needed:
1. 25lbs Dry Acid (TA)
2. 26lbs Hardness Plus (CH)
3. 8oz Power Powder Plus (Shock)
4. 1 Gal 63oz Instant Pool conditioner (CYA)
5. 1 Gal 61oz NoPhos (High Phosp)

what I already have on hand:
1. Roughly 8lbs 20 Mule Team Borax (PH if needed)
2. 5gal Liquid Chlorine 10%
3. 2gal Muriactic Acid (Home Depot)
4. 4lb Cyanuric Acid (Clorox Pool Chlorine Stablizer)

I don’t have what it suggests for low CH and not sure yet what I need.
Thanks!
 

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If you haven't added any CYA yet, you have zero. Leslies is wrong. Poolmath says the whole 4 lbs will only get you to 31. Just crumple up the Leslie's test and toss it. Use the sock method to add CYA. Don't just pour it in the skimmer.

You should add liquid chlorine to get to 3 ppm FC. Poolmath will work out how much 10% that is for a pool your size. If you're uncertain, calculate it and have us check it. But we don't like to just tell you the answer, since you'll need to do this yourself.

Low CH is no problem for a vinyl pool.
pH is okay for now. It will rise in a few days.
TA will come down some when pH gets adjusted. Don't make any special efforts yet.

Once the chlorine has had a few minutes to mix, it's safe to get in. You don;t need to wait for the CYA to dissolve.
 
If you haven't added any CYA yet, you have zero. Leslies is wrong. Poolmath says the whole 4 lbs will only get you to 31. Just crumple up the Leslie's test and toss it. Use the sock method to add CYA. Don't just pour it in the skimmer.

You should add liquid chlorine to get to 3 ppm FC. Poolmath will work out how much 10% that is for a pool your size. If you're uncertain, calculate it and have us check it. But we don't like to just tell you the answer, since you'll need to do this yourself.

Low CH is no problem for a vinyl pool.
pH is okay for now. It will rise in a few days.
TA will come down some when pH gets adjusted. Don't make any special efforts yet.

Once the chlorine has had a few minutes to mix, it's safe to get in. You don;t need to wait for the CYA to dissolve.
7F89CB4A-9DC4-4EE5-9094-58A865CC8997.png
 
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