For pool chemistry, is there an ideal practice for pump running when you get a TON of rain? Is it best to kill the pump so the overflow drains off the top rather than mixing in the rain water and having well-mixed water drain out? Trying to minimize my water balance effects if that’s even possible.
What to do with torrential rain
- Thread starter Rumbleehockey03
- Start date
- May 3, 2007
- 17,029
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
How many inches of rain are we talking about?
Normally, overflows drain quite slowly so it could be a couple days before the fresh rain drains off. During that time and if the pump is off, FC levels could drop below critical levels subjecting the pool to algae blooms. If you do shut off the pump, keep an eye on the water clarity for problems.
Normally, overflows drain quite slowly so it could be a couple days before the fresh rain drains off. During that time and if the pump is off, FC levels could drop below critical levels subjecting the pool to algae blooms. If you do shut off the pump, keep an eye on the water clarity for problems.
I'm a 24/7 low speed guy. The jury is still out on the worth vs cost. I believe that having a constant refreshing helps reduce any quick swings from enviornmental factors. For example a bad storm or a super hot day while the pump/swg is off. Many people still maintain through those occurrences with only 4/6/8/12 hours a day so they arent wrong either. Originally i was told to trickle it or start with 6 hours at full speed and adjust from there. It worked great on the trickle and we preferred the moving water look. We never looked back.
If we are expecting a lot of rain, I will just shut the pump off in the morning then drain the pool after work with just suction from the skimmer. No idea if it actually works but I believe it must get some of the fresh water... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Well the pool level gained at least 2” in a couple hours today and I kept the pump running and turned up the SWG when I got home from work to stay on top of chlorine. It’s raining much slower now and the overflow from the skimmer is doing the work for now. Will drain a couple inches tomorrow when it’s all done
Then it should usually just be fine. If you knew a huge storm was coming you could bump the FC %. Its been a quiet hurricane season so far, hopefully we dodge them all. Trying to stop the mixing of rain and (salt) pool water is probably too insignificant to matter. They will stay a hair separate, but nothing remotely close to oil/water.
I was able to at least check FC, ph, and alkalinity today with my 5-way kit (don’t have the tf-100 yet) and the levels were all solid. I did bump my SWG up yesterday knowing the rain was coming and it was between 3 and 5 this AM which is as close as this kit can measure. I figured I’d need to increase alkalinity after dumping roughly 600gal this morning but it’s still at 70-80 and ph was 7.6ish. So far I must say I’m loving this SWG...keeps everything nice and tight. Also my water is a nice mild 85 now with all the rain so that’s another plus
Also, regarding CYA, I haven’t been able to test myself but a pool store reading said 30ppm a couple weeks ago and I added my last 2lbs at the time after that sample was taken. Even without the SWG running I drop less than 2ppm per day in 12ish hours of full sun which makes me question the 70ppm recommendation for a salt pool. Any comments on CYA are appreciated.
- May 3, 2007
- 17,029
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
How do you know your levels are "solid" when you dont know your CYA? FC target levels are dependent on CYA levels. Please post all of your actual levels.
I’m just assuming on the CYA since I don’t have the proper test kit yet. The assumption is based on the setting of my SWG and run time needed to maintain the proper FC level when my pool is in full sun all day. If my CYA wasn’t close, I wouldn’t be running the SWG on such a low setting for 12hrs to maintain.
- May 3, 2007
- 17,029
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
The FC level is dependent on the CYA level. The higher the CYA level, the more FC you need. See this chart: Chlorine / CYA Chart - Trouble Free Pool
I would assume a high level of CYA until you know for sure. I would target at least 6-8 ppm for FC.
I would assume a high level of CYA until you know for sure. I would target at least 6-8 ppm for FC.
