$%^&* What the heck did I do now?

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FixItPete

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Apr 7, 2012
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Had the pool perfect... with one exception. I had no CYA, so I was going through chlorine like crazy.

I finally bite the bullet and do CYA (Powder in side the tube sock method)... I only got the CYA to about 30 and the available (free) chlorine is has stabilized wonderfully... I check it each day, just to be sure.

However, the darn pool has a "haze" or a "cloud" to it that is just horrible. I can barely see the drain at the bottom of the pool. And it has a "marine-green" color...

Everything else, TA, TC, ph, etc. are all smack-on the mid-point of perfect... I'm anal like that. I realize that CYA is low @ 30 (if that, it may be closer to 25)... but would that make for the cloudiness???

Thanks... sorry to keep asking all these newbie questions, but this is so new to me...

Pete
 
FixItPete said:
Had the pool perfect... with one exception. I had no CYA, so I was going through chlorine like crazy.

I finally bite the bullet and do CYA (Powder in side the tube sock method)... I only got the CYA to about 30 and the available (free) chlorine is has stabilized wonderfully... I check it each day, just to be sure.

However, the darn pool has a "haze" or a "cloud" to it that is just horrible. I can barely see the drain at the bottom of the pool. And it has a "marine-green" color...

Everything else, TA, TC, ph, etc. are all smack-on the mid-point of perfect... I'm anal like that. I realize that CYA is low @ 30 (if that, it may be closer to 25)... but would that make for the cloudiness???

Thanks... sorry to keep asking all these newbie questions, but this is so new to me...

Pete
Click to expand...
Did you raise the FC to compensate for the added CYA?

Try the overnight loss test and see if you need the shock process or not. How To . . . . .
 
I have all the #s at the house...

However, from memory:

FC: 9 (I increased it when I added the CYA)
CC: 0
pH: 7.4-7.5
TA: midpoint
CYA: 25-30
CH: midpoint

(midpoint means that when I tested it, and looked up my # on the chart I was just about the middle or the "range" that it indicated it should be at)
 
A cloudy pool often means a pool with algae. You will likely need to shock. I would bump my chlorine to shock level at dark tonight and do an overnight chlorine test. If you maintain chlorine, great... If you lost more than 1, you've got a jump start on solving the problem before it got any worse.
 
FC is very high, and very stable... so I find it hard to believe that we're dealing with algae.
I just tested everything again... and everything is solid... smack-on the mid-points shown on the "best" ranges for my Taylor kit. We're talking everything! FC, TA, ph, CYA, TC, Calcium, EVERYTHING... this has me baffled.

Now, I do have ONE thing that I don't get.

I brushed the pool late yesterday... and there was a decent amount of what I call "tan powder" -- whatever you call that "sandy" looking Crud that you brush toward the drain... anyway... normally, if I brush again the next day... there is nothing much to speak of to brush. Well... today, there is more. Not as much, but still, it's there.

Now, I'm smart enough to know that this must be some kind of dead something, no?

Teach me... I need to learn!
 
FC: 6 (it was 9 on the 11th of August)
CC: 0
pH: 7.4
TA: 70
CYA: 25-30
CH: 160

And yet again, today, there is a lot of that tan powder on the bottom of the pool... not sure if it's dead algae or what...

Now you have the information. Lets hear it!

Excited to hear back!
Thanks,
Pete
 

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The pool gets full sun. I am measuring the FC in the AM and the PM -- on the 11th it was @ 9. On the 9th it was @ 11. Yesterday PM it was at 6 (14th)...

Before I had any CYA it would drop much much much faster... I had 0 CYA about 12 days ago and added it via the sock method. That is when all this began.

Pool has a CS100 (cartridge filter) -- running around 16-20PSI.
 
Manually add liquid (10.25%) from fresh stock.

Update on FC:

@ 5:30PM on 8/14 it was a solid "6".
@ 9:10AM on 8/15 it was approximately 5.5, maybe 5.25 (still had some pink tint, probably about 1/2 a drop would have turned it clear...)

Does that shed any insight on things?
 
The chlorine loss test is best done at shock levels. The reason (I think) is that 1ppm is a much smaller percentage of the shock value than regular. Also be sure to brush that same day to rid algae of any protective coating so the chlorine can work.

Is the green color gone?
 
No, the color is not gone. I wouldn't call it green -- I would call it more like a cloudy aqua-green-marine sort of color. I can tell you that the drain on the bottom is probably 25% visible (with 100% being crystal clear being able to see the drain)...
 

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