What should I use to re-back fill my pool?

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Aleforge

Aleforge

0
May 31, 2014
296
Wentzville, MO
I finally got all my concrete cut out and have full access to my pipes, which I am fully replacing. So far I have hand dug out a lot of sand around the outside of the shell. And I am about to go deep enough in two area's that have bulges to relieve the pressure and "hopefully" pop the walls back into shape. Anyhow I will need to have material brought in so I can fill things back up. I know sand isn't the best choice so I am wondering if I should use gravel to fill in the area's that I removed? Obviously I didn't remove the entire shell so it would be 1/2 and 1/2 if I did that (gravel 1/2 way down on top of sand). Good or bad idea? I also have some trenches I dug up around the pipes leading to and from the pool that need filled? What do you guys think?

OH and I talked to a local supplier and they said they have either “masonry or paver” sand...

Thanks!

Oh and since everyone loves pictures, here is my repair progress so far. I still need to dig A LOT more out this weekend and I get the bonus of 110 degree heat index.
Pool Journey - Album on Imgur
 
Were the broken pipes from digging or they just cracked as you have in the pictures? Backfilling with sandy soil is probably best as too much sand may shift and wash away if you have soil erosion. Clay is too hard and prevents drainage. My plumbing (flex pipe) around the pool is encased in all concrete (They call it the collar). Hopefully nothing every happens to the plumbing where the concrete needs to be broken as this is a major job. Good luck and keep us posted!
 
Pea gravel is best around fiberglass pools when they are new installs. Ur problem is the compaction of anything isn't possible because of the fiberglass shell and using clean 3/4 gravel compacts 90 plus percent on its own. My worry is the soil next to it will migrate into it and cause a tiny bit of settling next to ur backfill. Any sand will need compacting too. Ur dirt doesn't look horrible if u can wait to replace the concrete is either use paver sand which is stone dust or the same dirt juat make sure u compact under the piping w a hand tamper and close but not next to shell as well. The other choice which is best is flowable fill the local concrete company has it by delivery via truck and is perfect for this but here it's 50ish a yard but that's what is use personally if u want best job possible then u can do cement next day no settling if the sub base is solid
 
Thanks guys,

> Were the broken pipes from digging or they just cracked as you have in the pictures?

The pipes were already cracked when I dug them out, I went slow and easy.


> Ur dirt doesn't look horrible if u can wait to replace the concrete is either use paver sand which is stone dust or the same dirt juat make sure u compact under the piping w a hand tamper and close but not next to shell as well.

I thought it was bad, of course I don't know a lot about soil. But pretty much all of it was sticky clay and I couldn't even get it off the shovel without hand scraping it. It might look a bit better due to tossing some sand on it, and then the rain hitting it. I dunno, but it would be easier to just pull those piles back in of course.


> Pea gravel. The trenches away from the pool may not be quite so critical but I would suggest pea gravel for the whole thing

So I can get a large load of just pea gravel and fill until the are is level? Does that need tampered down? My plan was to fill, then stick some stone pavers (temporary) to form a pathway to the steps. I never realized how cheap a load of rock, gravel sand etc really was which is awesome being so tight right now. My family want's to use the pool ASAP but I can't afford the area to be re-poured atm.

Quick question, how deep does it need to be and can concrete be poured on top?

Oh last question, currently I am missing all the weight from the original patio pressing down on the coping... I keep thinking at any moment it's going to pop out (lol). I need to make it until early fall, do you think as long as the pool is topped off I am safe?
 
Does that need tampered down?
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No, that's one of the reasons to use it. DO NOT use the existing dirt.
Quick question, how deep does it need to be and can concrete be poured on top?

Oh last question, currently I am missing all the weight from the original patio pressing down on the coping... I keep thinking at any moment it's going to pop out (lol). I need to make it until early fall, do you think as long as the pool is topped off I am safe?
Click to expand...
Doesn't really matter how thick it is....just bring the gravel up to the correct level and pour the concrete on top. The missing weight of the coping is not relevant.....ypur p[ool will not pop up as long as you have water in it.
 
Catanzaro said:
Does anyone know how it happened? Thanks!
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I have a hypothesis, last year I was having some prime issues. I couldn't get the air 100% out of the lines. I also had to add a lot of water during the season. HOWEVER I did have a large crack in the bottom, but sealed it over with some resin bit it could've been slowly leaking anyhow. That didn't explain the air though. So I am thinking I had some very small cracks in the pipes which accumulated water during the off season and froze. We had some nights that hit 0. I am not sure why the cracks started to begin with but the flex lines are 15-16 years old. And I had major settling issues that got really bad the last few years putting immense pressure on that area of the pool. The pump station is up hill from the crack area's. https://i.imgur.com/4uMGh6B.jpg (you can see it leaning over)

Who knows for sure, but I am going to replace the flex with rigid schedule 80 pipe through out. Hopefully that is a good idea.
 
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