What kind of controller is this?

IkigaiYay

New member
Jul 13, 2023
4
DFW
Pool Size
30000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
I just bought a house that was built in 1986 that has a 33,000 gallon in-ground pool. I’m new to pool equipment, so I’m just starting to get a handle on what everything is and how to work it. Fairly central to the system is the controller (see pics). All the labels have come off except a bar code that says “RS001741”. There is another device inside the house identified as Aqualink RS4. I’ll add a picture of that too, since they work together.

I’d like to know what I have so I can find a manual on it, and from there, learn how to configure it, identify the wires, learn about maintenance, and learn about what all I might want it to do if only I knew it could do it. For example, can it be programmed to control an electronic valve to any of three positions?

In particular, I’d like to know what that 9V battery powers, and what the procedure is to change it.

Any educated guesses or tidbits of wisdom would be welcomed.
IkigaiYay
 

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That is a Jandy Aqualink. It is an older unit. The battery powers the onboard clock. You should be able to just change it and reset the clock.

It can be programmed to control a valve but typically the valve would only have 2 positions that are set by taking the cover off the valve and moving the stops. Can you post a picture of your plumbing? You may also have a couple of JVAs or automated valve controllers connected to one or more of the valves.

 
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The valve on top is a JVA2440. The bottom valve is a Hayward PSA24.

The reason I was interested in a 3-way valve is that currently, when the pump is off, the spa drains down to its jets with the water going into the pool. The pool has an overflow port, so I think I'm losing a lot of water every day. My last water bill was for 40,000 gallons. In pool mode (as shown), the top valve sends more water to the spa than to the pool so water flows over the little waterfalls. In spa mode, the valve turns flow to the pool completely off. I would like for it to also have a position for when the pump is off, and have it shut off all flow to the spa so it can't drain back through the pipes to the pool.

Keep in mind I'm a newbie, so I may be completely misunderstanding what's going on.
 

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Welcome to TFP.

The 9V battery provides backup power to the panels clock to maintain the date and time when power is lost. Without the battery the date and time reset to default when power is lost even momentarily. When there is power the battery is not needed. When I had one of those panels I would replace the battery annually.

The indoor control panel is called the All-Button Controller. All programming of the panel can only be done through the All-Button Controller. Jandy has other control panels for the system - a more modern One Touch Controller and an app based iAqualink.

Manuals for the components of the system are on the Jandy website.
 
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The valve on top is a JVA2440. The bottom valve is a Hayward PSA24.

The reason I was interested in a 3-way valve is that currently, when the pump is off, the spa drains down to its jets with the water going into the pool. The pool has an overflow port, so I think I'm losing a lot of water every day. My last water bill was for 40,000 gallons. In pool mode (as shown), the top valve sends more water to the spa than to the pool so water flows over the little waterfalls. In spa mode, the valve turns flow to the pool completely off. I would like for it to also have a position for when the pump is off, and have it shut off all flow to the spa so it can't drain back through the pipes to the pool.

Keep in mind I'm a newbie, so I may be completely misunderstanding what's going on.

I am not super familiar with how spa overflows work but was under the impression they typically have a one-way valve that prevents them draining back to the pool. Check around your plumbing see if you can find one. Perhaps that valve is failing/dirty. Did the previous owner give you any "pool school" training on the system? Also I assume you have an auto-fill somewhere that is making up for the water lost through the overflow?

The JVAs are not designed to work in more than 2 positions. Essentially they are on or off. There is a "SmartJVA" controller but it doesn't really do what you want. You would have to manually change it for the 3rd position each time you need it. Plus I doubt it works with your older system.

On another note, welcome to the forum! Hopefully you will maintain your own pool using TFP methods! It is the least amount of work with the greatest rewards.

Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels
 
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There are two fixes for your spa draining into the pool...

You can install a check valve in the spa return as indicated by the CV in the pic below to prevent water backflowing from the spa returns into the pool returns.

Or you can change the cam on the return actuator to fully close the SPA RETURN line when in POOL mode and enable SPILLOVER MODE with dipswitch#3 as described in Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

That may not be feasible with your RS4 and your lights on AUX3.

You have an old Aqualink system and should consider upgrading it to give you more modern controls and more AUX circuits to be able to use SPILLOVER mode.

If the Aqualink is your only piece of Jandy equipment you may want to consider changing to Pentair automation with an IntelliCenter. Eventually a VS pump is in everyones future and the automation should be compatible and communicate with your VS pump, SWG, and heater.

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Update: I brought a local pool company out to give me a quote on replacing the heater and doing a bunch of other work. When I mentioned that the spa drains overnight, he asked if it continues draining below the jets. It does. He said that maybe the check valve is also a problem, but definitely, that lower valve actuator is leaking because if the spa is draining through the main drain, it's coming up that pipe ajw22 kindly marked "spa". He said he can rebuild the valve actuator for $125.
 
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