What Have I Done - White Deposit on Brand New FG Pool

jtomka

Member
Oct 31, 2023
5
Melbourne, Australia
Hi all,

I'm starting a new hot tub after we got rid of the old one more than a year ago. I do have basic understanding of water chemistry, but I'd still consider myself a beginner. I'm trying to understand what could I have done wrong to end up with white deposit on our brand new FG pool after less than three weeks. I don't think it's anything to do with the pool itself as the deposit is actually worse on the non-FG plastic bits.

After having built up CYA using dichlor I switched to a very old bottle of liquid chlorine, which seemed to be down to 2% active. After a week, when pH went through the roof, I switched to a new bottle of 12.5% liquid chlorine.

The tub is an above ground dual spa + swim spa. The affected spa part is around 1500 L (400 gal) kept at 35C (95F). The larger swim spa part's water is maintained separately and to slightly different targets, and shows no signs of damage.

Attached is my full log and photos of damage. Target values are included in the first line of the log. Values in parentheses are not actual measurements, usually just carried over or calculated. I'm using the Taylor K-2006 test kit.

The deposit doesn't feel different to the touch from other parts of the pool. It's not coming off with a sponge. I applied muriatic acid to the back of the plastic cover and that seems to have helped, but I'm afraid to go ahead with the acid on the FG in case I cause more damage.

Thank you!
 

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Welcome to the forum!

Looks like you already got a Taylor kit, tick to step one. Those parameters don't look like calcium scaling would be likely. But you can try to scratch off a sample, drip a drop of acid on it and see if it fizzes up - that would indicate calcium carbonate scale.

I'm not very familiar with FG, maybe @Texas Splash has an idea?
 
Welcome! :wave: Touch call really. We have found by surveying many TFP fiberglass pool owners that gelcoat changes can/do happen, but there doesn't appear to be a common denominator at this point. Older pools seem to be more susceptible to fading/chalkiness, but I don't think yours is in that category. Your test values seem fine overall. There may have been a period early on where the TA was a bit low. Some FG owners experienced chalkiness with a low TA, but in their cases the substance wiped off. Yours seems embedded. In those cases we watch to see if there was an oxidation reaction due to an excessive FC combined with an elevated pH perhaps. You had a few places here & there where the numbers were a little out of range, but nothing that would indicate a pattern of poor chemistry long enough to explain the changes you are seeing.

In many cases (much like my FG pool), it may simply come down to how the product was made, the gel coating itself, or quality in which it was applied. Since you see non-FG parts also changing, that is interesting as well. :scratch: Nothing stands out to me that would explain the changes you are experiencing. I wish I had more info to provide.
 
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Thanks guys. Just an update, it seems to be getting worse even though water chemistry has been fine for a while now. I've been going through a SLAM after CC had hit zero earlier last week. I don't think it's something in the unfiltered tap water causing this as the other pool seems fine? Should I drain and refill?

Attached is an updated log and photos.
 

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That looks to me like you have high minerals in your water that are being deposited on the shell as water evaporates. If so, draining and refilling will not change anything.

What is the source of your fill water?

Do you have any water quality report for your fill water listing what is in it?
 
This is unfiltered tap water in Melbourne, Australia. Comes extremely soft. Have been using it for years without a problem. Also, the other part of the swim spa doesn't have this problem.


That said, the spa was sitting at a construction site for a few months before the first fill. I had to remove rain water and dirt from it when hard cover arrived. Could there have been enough minerals left in the pipes for this to occur?
 
Could there have been enough minerals left in the pipes for this to occur?

Only way to know would be sending the water to a laboratory for analysis.

If fresh water is readily available then a drain and refill may be a good test given the history of the tub.
 
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Ok, drain and refill it is. I'm wondering what values I should be shooting for to protect the surface. Are these safe targets, or should I make adjustments?

CH 200, TA 50, CYA 30, pH 7.6, FC 6.0

Thanks.
They look fine.
 
Thanks. I ended up going with same targets I've got in the swim spa part of the pool. Aeration in the hot tub is much higher and I expect to end up with lower TA over time, I just wanted to start with something that's bang on balanced CSI and that I know causes no issues.

CH 300, TA 80, CYA 50, pH 7.5, FC 8.0
 

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