What do I select for Sanitizer in the PoolMath app if I use CalHypo Shock Treatment?

[proavia]

When doing the CH and TA tests - are you continuing to add drops until the last drop doesn't change the color any further (and subtracting the last drop that didn't change the color) or are you ending the test at the first change of color (blue for CH / red for TA)?

Where exactly in Phoenix are you?
Are you on city water, well, or something else?
Most water anywhere in the Valley of the Sun is 200+ for CH and 100+ for TA

If you don't have a box on the wall that allows programming to control your pump - in your case a Pentair branded box for your Pentair pump - you don't have automation.
Your pump alone will not provide that and a simple timer box on the wall isn't automation either.

 

[cilo06]

When doing the CH and TA tests - are you continuing to add drops until the last drop doesn't change the color any further (and subtracting the last drop that didn't change the color) or are you ending the test at the first change of color (blue for CH / red for TA)?

Where exactly in Phoenix are you?
Are you on city water, well, or something else?
Most water anywhere in the Valley of the Sun is 200+ for CH and 100+ for TA

If you don't have a box on the wall that allows programming to control your pump - in your case a Pentair branded box for your Pentair pump - you don't have automation.
Your pump alone will not provide that and a simple timer box on the wall isn't automation either.

Yes when doing CH and TA tests I do continue to add drop and then subtract the one that doesn't change color.

I have softened water. I am in Phoenix Uptown area, so I am assuming I have City Water.

I don't have automation, I will look into a new pool pump with automation. Any recommen? Also do you know how I can find out when my pool was built? Bought the house with th pool and got no information.

 

[proavia]

Automation would be like the Pentair Intellicenter.
With a simple pool you likely don't need automation. A VS (variable speed) pump has a control panel built-in that allows setting pump runtimes and rpms.
Post pics of your equipment pad and any timers.

Did you fill the entire pool with softened water?
Is the water softener plumbed into a soft water loop in the garage or does it also soften all outside hose bibs as well?
In the front of the house where the water shutoff is, is there a hose bib? This may have unsoftened water.
Post a pic of the water shutoff outside in front and also of your water softener installation.

In PHX, we fill the pool initially with un-softened water. Some of us use softened water in the autofill (replacing water due to evaporation).
If you pool is presently at CH 100, you need to add calcium chloride (not cal hypo) to get CH to about 250 to protect the plaster from leeching calcium.

 

[HermanTX]

Did you fill the entire pool with softened water?
Is the water softener plumbed into a soft water loop in the garage or does it also soften all outside hose bibs as well?
In the front of the house where the water shutoff is, is there a hose bib? This may have unsoftened water.
Post a pic of the water shutoff outside in front and also of your water softener installation.

I think based on previous testing, the tap water and autofill are both on water softener. It was under 25ppm. I think since the CH is 100, the water softener had to regenerate and some of the fill water was “unsofened” thus the increase in CH for overall pool water.

@cilo06 should add calicum chloride directly to pool to increase CH to minimum 250.
It is recommended to stop using cal-hypo as that will continue to increase CH over time which is not good for the pool.
If the plan is to move to a SWCG then that would be best, if not - use liquid chlorine for sanitation