What chemicals to buy for new pool

[Dtkokay]

My pool is under construction and *fingers crossed* looks like it should be done in less than a month - My Pool Construction Thread

It's a 24K gallon salt water pool that also has an inline chlorinator, heat pump with chiller, variable speed pump, and three waterfalls. I've tested my tap water using the TF100 kit, and I also bought the stirrer and Taylor salt kit, so I think I have all the testing equipment I need.

I was hoping to get the group's feedback on chemicals to buy in advance of the pool being completed. I tested my tap water and got the following results:

pH 7.8
Calcium: 75 ppm (ideal is 350 to 450)
Alkalinity: 190 ppm (ideal is 60-120)

Based on the above, here's my thinking, and please tell me where I'm off base:

* Buy dichlor tablets and use my inline chlorinator for the first month. The tablets are convenient and have the benefit of adding some CYA to the water, which I'll need anyways. I'll transition to the salt system after the first month.

* Based on the internet tables I have found, I'll need 640 pounds of salt for my 24K gallon pool. I won't add this until after the first month while the plaster cures. I was thinking of buying less than that at first, maybe 500 pounds, and then test the salt level to make sure I don't overbuy salt.

* To lower the TA, I'll need muriatic acid. Per Pool Math, 6 gallons of 14.5% acid will lower the TA by 63 and the pH by 3.8. I understand that I should add a little acid at a time to slowly bring the TA down and then raise the pH by aeration. I was hoping my 3 waterfalls would be enough to raise the pH. Or should I go ahead and buy borax to help raise the pH?

* To increase calcium hardness, per Pool Math, buy 65 lbs of calcium chloride to raise the level by 293, making a total of around 360.

* To raise the CYA, buy dry CYA. Pool Math says 10 lbs will raise CYA by 50 and pH by 0.9. I was going to buy 10 lbs and then raise the CYA slowly each week until I get to the recommended 70-80 ppm after a month, when I start the SWCG.

 

[ajw22]

What startup guide will you be following?

Plaster Start-Up Guides - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Follow startup guide chemistry and transition to TFP guidelines after 30 days. Read Plaster Installation and Maintenance - Further Reading to get the best quality plaster job and start-up.

Note: The CSI is not applicable to new plaster finishes under 30 days old. It is actually necessary, to achieve a smooth and dense surface, to have about a +0.5 CSI during the first 30 days. This is because the plaster (cement paste) surface contains about 20% calcium hydroxide, which is somewhat soluble in balanced and slightly positive CSI water and can be dissolved away. The plaster surface needs to be "carbonated" before the CSI should be lowered to the acceptable and balanced range. And that generally is achieved during the first month under balanced water

We use PoolMath to calculate chemicals needed.

I would use liquid chlorine and not dichlor for the first 30 days. Using tablets you cannot control the specific levels of FC or CYA. I want to be at the recommended start-up targets.

640 lbs of salt should raise 24,000 gallons by 3,200 ppm. Add 2/3 let circulate for 48 hours and test your salt level with a K-1766 Taylor Salt Test Your pool may not be 24,000 gallons. Sneak up towards your target salt level with a few doses testing in between. If you overshoot your salt the only way to lower it will be draining water.

Don't worry about your TA for the first few weeks. Focus on your FC and pH. Once you get all your other chemistry stabilized you can follow...

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

Buy 31% acid if you can. New plaster curing will have constantly rising pH to lower. Keep your pH at the high end of the range for the first 30 days.

Follow your startup guide on CYA level. Probably CYA 30 for first 30 days. Then you can add salt and raise CYA to get the SWG started.

 

[Dtkokay]

Thank you for the detailed explanation and links. That all makes a lot of sense.

Our finish will be Pebble Sheen, so I’ll follow their startup guide. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I didn’t know that information was out there. For example, one thing I read in the PebbleTec startup guide was to use liquid CYA and not granular.

I’ll skip the pucks as you suggest and go with liquid chlorine, IF I can find liquid chlorine. It seems to be in short supply in my area due to the coronavirus. Thanks again! So much to learn...

 

[Dtkokay]

I was able to find 9 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine at Home Depot. For my 24K gallon pool, Pool Math says 1 gallon will raise my FC by 4.1. No idea how long this supply of chlorine will last for me, but at least I have some. Worst case I'll get some pucks to tide me over until I get past the 28 day period and I can convert to salt.

Per the Pebbletec startup guide, I also bought 2 gallons of liquid CYA to get my up to 30 ppm, per Pebbletec's guide. I also bought some granular CYA for use later.

I bought 6 gallons of muriatic acid because my tap water is 7.8, and Pebbletec says I should be no higher than 7.4 during the first 28 days. My PB said they'll also give me quite a bit of muriatic acid at pool startup.

Here's one weird thing: At Home Depot, I wanted to buy enough salt for when I eventually convert over, but the salespeople said I couldn't buy more than five 40 lb bags at a time. This was for water softener salt. Any idea why they limit that?

I think I'm good to go at least to start.

 

[markayash]

Just be careful with CYA, if you go too high you have to drain and add add back..

For salt check walmart for Morton salt in the pool section. Just avoid the Clorox brand..Just add less salt then you think and test also

I found Amazon sold 25 and 50 pds of CH, I need 45 so bought it. Stores around here only sell the 7pds jugs and I refuse to hit a pool store

 

[tim5055]

I just wanted ot point out something that grabbed my attention from your first post. Do not use Dichlor tablets in a normal tablet chlorinator. Dichlor tablets do not dissolve/erode like Trichlor tablets. They become soft and gummy, plugging up a tablet chlorinator. There are actually special grinder chlorinators for Dichlor tablets.

 

[aussieta]

beware most pool builders specify your pool volume if it was filled to the brim
as mentioned add 2/3 to 3/4 of chemicals, retest then again 2/3 3/4 gain until you get to know your pool and how it reacts to chemicals

 

[Dtkokay]

I just wanted ot point out something that grabbed my attention from your first post. Do not use Dichlor tablets in a normal tablet chlorinator. Dichlor tablets do not dissolve/erode like Trichlor tablets. They become soft and gummy, plugging up a tablet chlorinator. There are actually special grinder chlorinators for Dichlor tablets.

Thanks! I said dichlor but meant to say trichlor.

 

[tim5055]

Thanks! I said dichlor but meant to say trichlor.

Usually we find folks who come here to understand why their trichlor feeder stopped working. Dichlor tabs are uncommon, but are out there......

 

[markayash]

Also check out this link, lot of stuff you can buy at grocery store Pool Care Basics Archives - Trouble Free Pool

 

[Dtkokay]

I checked the date code on the liquid chlorine I bought from HD, and it's all from March 2020 thankfully. Weird thing is that post raising this issue has disappeared. It was in this thread yesterday.