Welcome to Automation, We Got Fun And Games

[KDpoolguy]

Okay, where to begin! I’ve never ever had a full blown automation system, and my new house has a brand new Pentair EasyTouch 8 panel, and it’s so cool. It has a EasyTouch Wired indoor Control panel wired to the bedroom. I want to expand the system right quick to get the iPhone/IPad/Laptop remote capabilities. I don’t want to use WiFi to control the outdoor panel, I want a wired Cat5 connection which I will do using a MOCA adapter (from nearby coax-I love MOCA, ask me and I’ll share!). and run the wire to the equipment pad through an existing unused cat door.
So if I don’t want/need WiFi (or RF connection I hear from indoor router to outdoor ET8 panel) and only want to plug in a Cat5 for wiring to my internet router, do I still need the entire ScreenLogic2 interface kit? Seems to be the ET8 motherboard should have a Ethernet capability or does Pentair really expect most to splurge for the entire interface kit? I remember seeing older panels with Cat5.
Another question is how some interface their SWCG through the automation...if at all. I’ve got a Hayward Turbocell 15SWP that’s controlled by its own proprietary panel- it was installed 2 years ago prior to new automation. Would I need the Pentair SWCG? So much to learn from y’all!

 

[KDpoolguy]

I’ll try to bump my own thread here.
Need some help getting acclimated to my new SWCG. I’m going in blind, not knowing at what stage this SWCG is. By this I’m asking if I should begin by dumping in some salt now? If you came upon a salt water pool, what would you do first?
I’m monitoring the Chlorine levels and am adding liquid chlorine as I have no idea how much salt is in the system now nor how much I should add. I haven’t moved in yet, so I’m just checking on the house every few days.

 

[Jimrahbe]

KD,

The new IntelliCenter has an Ethernet port, but the EasyTouch does not. To talk with the EasyTouch you need an Protocol Adapter which comes with the wireless kit. It talks Pentair on one end and Ethernet on the other and translates the two languages..

You can hard wire using a small 4 wire cable or use the wireless transceivers.

I initially had my system hard wired until we had a lightning strike that took out everything connected to the EasyTouch.. Main board, SWCG power supply board, and the protocol adapter plus all the Cable TV equipment and one Ethernet switch where the EasyTouch wiring was connected.. I now use the wireless transceivers, which are not WiFi BTW.. Use hard wire at your own risk..

The cost for just the Protocol Adapter is just about the same as the full up wireless kit, so to me, it does not make sense to just by the adapter.

Pentair ScreenLogic Interface and Wireless Connection Kit 522104

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[KDpoolguy]

Thanks for the help Jim. So for a direct LAN/Ethernet connection I can do what I want with just the Protocol Adapter 520500, but you’re absolutely right, it’s more $$$ that the full 522104 wireless kit. Was really hoping I wouldn’t have to invest another $400 for (what I feel is) a simple connectivity option—in fact I’m surprised there aren’t 3rd party kits for $50. With all the ‘muscle’ and capability in the ET8, it seems so silly to accessorize these options to death...I digress. At least It does seem like people are happy with the stability of the WiDi connection. I’ll have to revisit surge protection with all these electronics.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Kevin,

Surge protection only helps if the problem comes in on the electrical power line, and even then it will not protect you from a direct strike.. My panel has surge protection...

In my case, it came in on the the cable that I was using to connect the EasyTouch to the Protocol Adapter and my house network..

Jim R.

 

[rm899]

Surge protection only helps if the problem comes in on the electrical power line, and even then it will not protect you from a direct strike.. My panel has surge protection...
Jim R.

Is your surge protection within the EasyTouch power center, or in your main home breaker panel? If in the power center, does it protect only the controller boards or does it protect all the equipment? I'm contemplating updating my current mechanical timers (one for main pump and one for booster) to an IntelliCenter type system so I can better keep my new IntelliFlo pump in sync with the booster. Power surges are a big concern for me.

 

[Jimrahbe]

899,

My surge protection just snaps into a 2 pole breaker slot in the EasyTouch.

In theory, it protects everything that is wired to the EasyTouch load center... My IntelliFlo pump, the SWCG Transformer, landscape lighting, the EasyTouch power supply, a sump pump, and the GFCI outlet that powers my Spa salt system and Robot cleaner.

I do not have a whole house system..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[KDpoolguy]

Strange programming issue with my ET8. I have 2 schedules, one is ‘POOL’ (1250 rpm) and one is ‘AUX 4’ (2650 rpm) that I renamed ‘Pool Cleaner’.
—Firstly I don’t understand why other programs outside of POOL turns off the load for my Hayward SWG, so other schedule options (I.e. Pool Cleaner) the SWG stops working & doesn’t get power. It’s wired with no automation computer control obviously. How does it know to only operate it with that POOL program?? How to I change this?
—Secondly, When running, the pump runs at the POOL speed (1250), but will inadvertently switch to the 2650 speed-I assume is the AUX4/PoolCleaner Speed. The times on the schedule are accurate and don’t overlap. Even after deleting schedule for Aux4/PoolCleaner, it still did it for a while. What gives??

I’m taking my ET8 apart and eyeballing where to place the ScreenLogic and found there’s a antenna in there for what I presume is the Easytouch wireless-I have a wired one. Cool, but wonder why. Maybe they lost or broke the wireless Easytouch.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Kevin,

Your SWCG is working like it should, the problem is your programming... the SWCG is supposed to be wired so that it does not get power unless you are in the Pool or Spa mode and the pump is being told to run..

I can't think of anytime, other than Service Mode that you would not want to be in the Pool or Spa mode.

Unless you are turning on a booster pump, you are just wasting an Aux circuit to change pump speeds.. I use Feature Circuits to change speeds or move valves.

An EasyTouch does not have an antenna on the inside of the cabinet, so I have no idea what you are talking about?????

Send us some pics.

You can post or PM me PC Screenshots of your Circuits set up page, your Schedules pages, and Pump speed pages, and I'll see if I can get you pointed in the right direction. Or at least what I think is the right direction...

Jim R.

 

[KDpoolguy]

Thanks Jim,
I won’t have my ScreenLogic for a couple weeks. Making my way figuring it out by punching the buttons. I have no idea what I’m doing...clearly. Thanks to you, I did figure out the circuits and Feature options. Testing it now with Feature 1 linked to POOL at the 2650 higher rpm (for my suction cleaner) and added that as a Schedule. I can hear the pump on higher speed, gonna go see if the SWG is also on.

The antenna is poking out of the bottom of the panel. I gotta send a picture.

 

[mknauss]

The 'antenna' is probably your air temperature sensor.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Kevin,

Do what you want of course, but programming with ScreenLogic is 10 x easier and easier to understand how everything flows together...

I tried to read the EasyTouch manual and managed to blindly get things working, but once I got ScreenLogic it was like someone turned the light bulb on... It just started to make sense.

Jim R.

 

[KDpoolguy]

The 'antenna' is probably your air temperature sensor.

That’s it! Air temp probe. The things I’m learning—the proverbial TFP flashlight illuminating all.

 

[KDpoolguy]

I entirely now see the ScreenLogic benefits. My neighbor is heading down after those (forsaken) music festivals with the SL, and he’ll install it but wanted me to send him a pic of the inside. I don’t think I’ll get much use from the remote app control features, but seeing how intricate the programs can be it’s gonna be a lifesaver to edit on a PC. I want to get more use out of it. Anyone use the panel to program other landscape lighting and such?
As for the schedule programming, I just wanted to get the lower speed and a couple hours of higher suction speed for the suction cleaner. I only just got the salt level on point and the SWG operating and so now it’s integration with pump speed schedules wasn’t fully understood until now. It’s working, the SWG remains on for both Schedules. The pump is against the wall adjacent to the master, and I’m so sensitive to the motor whine it has to be sub-1300 rpm for me to sleep. It can throttle up when I’m awake for the floor cleaner to get enough boost to operate. Ugh, if I could only get the robot this week. Just opened escrow on the old house, so a nice check is soon to be arriving and that robot will be the first thing I buy—that is after a nice dinner out of course.

 

[KDpoolguy]

Lost..again. Seems my fix isn’t allowing the Filter/Pool Common power to work. Only the pump is working and the SWG isn’t. Tell me if this is a possible temp fix—to just have the higher speed Schedule (AUX or Feature) while the slower speed POOL schedule is on, so they are concurrently running. It seems to work=higher speed and SWG is on since higher speed takes precedence. Is this how it’s normally done?

I’m a smart guy, and ET8 is making me feel that Green Eggs and Ham is actually War and Peace. Is that a good analogy? IDK, I just don’t get it. SL2 I need you now!

 

[mknauss]

If you want a higher speed schedule to run during your normal Pool mode schedule you set it as a Feature and schedule it. Set the speed for that Feature. It will run when scheduled. The SWCG will still run.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Kevin,

I have "Pool" schedule to be on 24/7... at 1200 RPM.. I also have Feature circuits for other speeds.. Skim low at 1500 Skim high at 2000 and waterfall at 2800..

I do not shut off Pool, I just turn on one of the other Feature speeds... If running at 1200, and I turn on Skim low, the pump will increase to 1500.. If I then turn on the waterfall the valves will turn and the pump will increase speed to 2800...

I'm pretty sure it is easier to read ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs than a Pentair manual...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[KDpoolguy]

Ok good, thanks Jim. That’s what I’ll do. It’s working now to just ‘overlap’ short-interval higher-speed schedules over the longer running low-speed POOL schedule (I’m also at 1200 rpm).

I’ve purchased the 2-port ‘Space-Saver’ Jandy valve (Link) to give me the option to stop the setup where water is always going a little bit through a bypass check valve out to the spa (even when it’s on pool recirc). Drives me nuts to always have the spillover running. I had the spa heated, turned it off for an hour or two, and the schedule took over, turned the valves and emptied all my hot spa water into the pool.
I hope the 4-screw style valve is durable, but short of major PVC surgery, I have the 1.5/2” sized Jandy so it should fit nicely before the check valve and have the 2” existing pipe fit over the couplings. I like the option of the shared spillover, but when this Jandy valve goes in I’ll need to figure out a way to turn the return valve to empty into just the spa for an hour and then back again.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Kevin,

I have an appointment this morning, but you should not have to add a valve or valve actuator... Post some pics of your equipment pad and I'll look at them when I get back...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[KDpoolguy]

Hi Jim,
We’ve discussed it before. It’s not a normal setup, as even if the main supply valve (To Spa/To Pool) is supposed to supply the pool, it’s been plumbed to send a bit of water into the spa (thru a check valve). I want to add a non-actuated 2-way (Jandy Space-Saver) valve to the area noted. See yellow line shows how water goes to pool and diverts to send some to the spa.
Once I add that valve, I’ll set up a schedule to turn the supply valve to supply the spa for a couple hours and then actuate back to solely supply the pool.
Have you ever seen a setup like this? It’s presumably so the valves never have to actuate to then supply both pool & spa.
I could conceivably cap the check valve “diversion”, but I do like the option for now until I do a more major replumb.
I’m gonna cut right at that right elbow and then again before the check-valve and slip in the 2-way valve.