Waxahachie, TX Owner Build - A race to beat the baby!

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Thanks, guys. The red lids have screw holes to secure them, but the screws were not being used. I tried them, but the head seemed too small to actually hold down the lid, so I went to the store when I got the lube and got some new screws and washers to hold them down.


I lubed the first side of the salt cell which fixed the leak, then a leak appeared on the other side and I fixed that too. Repressurized the system with the valve open to the bubblers, so those are under pressure too and doing fine. What should I set the pressure to? Right now it's at 27, but with the mention of 22, I think I'll bring it down a little.

The plumber has been in touch this morning, so that counts for something (however small.) He agreed to come out and fix anything that anyone else breaks, and we (I.e., the subs responsible) can pay him. So for now I'm doing ok, and have learned a lot already. Nothing like the school of hard knocks!

Thanks for the prayers, Matt. I've been saying my fair share, but I can use all the help I can get!

****
I just went out and lowered pressure to 22. Then I noticed that the bubblers were dripping from white outlet pipe below the lid. It's probably because the lids don't fit perfectly. Other than these drips, I'm not seeing any other leaks at the pad. Do I need to keep the bubblers pressurized? Should I close the valve so their dripping doesn't affect my overall pressure reading?
 
I would shut down the bubblers as the leaking will cover up any other possible leaks. Sham the pipes are covered, should have been tested while they were fully exposed. You'll just have to rely on the gage readings.
 
Jamie,

Two things -

1. Pentair installation manual for the lighted bubblers shows you can use standard expandable pool return plugs for pressure testing. The red covers aren't designed to hold pressure.

2. I see no electrical hook up yet (the lower 1" tubes). Electrical conduit needs to be attached before those bubblers get buried in gunite. Is your electrical sub coming out to run the 1" electrical conduit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Jamie,

Two things -

1. Pentair installation manual for the lighted bubblers shows you can use standard expandable pool return plugs for pressure testing. The red covers aren't designed to hold pressure.

2. I see no electrical hook up yet (the lower 1" tubes). Electrical conduit needs to be attached before those bubblers get buried in gunite. Is your electrical sub coming out to run the 1" electrical conduit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
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That makes sense on the caps for the bubblers. Thanks for finding that for me.

The electrician is supposed to be out tomorrow for prebond before gunite on Tuesday. I assume that includes setting everything necessary before gunite makes it too late. I'll make sure of it.

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blazeone said:
I would shut down the bubblers as the leaking will cover up any other possible leaks. Sham the pipes are covered, should have been tested while they were fully exposed. You'll just have to rely on the gage readings.
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Thanks, that's what I figured. They are off now. I'm going to keep a close watch on the gauge and hopefully it doesn't move.

- - - Updated - - -

Helen203 said:
omg, I miss a day and you have rebar!! And I love your wonderful can-do attitude. :)
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Thanks, Helen! There have already been a few hiccups, but I'm learning a lot and nothing that can't be fixed yet. I just pray all continues to go well.
 
JamieP said:
That makes sense on the caps for the bubblers. Thanks for finding that for me.

The electrician is supposed to be out tomorrow for prebond before gunite on Tuesday. I assume that includes setting everything necessary before gunite makes it too late. I'll make sure of it.
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Ok, sorry if that post made me sound like "Capt Obvious" but I just wanted to make sure.

One other thing - your equipment pad, has it been poured yet? Your equipment seems to be sitting inside the forms where the concrete will go. Am I looking at the picture right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Ok, sorry if that post made me sound like "Capt Obvious" but I just wanted to make sure.

One other thing - your equipment pad, has it been poured yet? Your equipment seems to be sitting inside the forms where the concrete will go. Am I looking at the picture right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
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I certainly don't mind your pointing out anything, obvious or not. This is all very very new to me and most likely I need to learn what you or anyone else is offering. I really appreciate all that everyone is doing to help me.

The pad has been poured, and is solidly under the equipment, but I just haven't bothered to remove the forms yet. Very obervant of you to notice though! :)
 
JamieP said:
I certainly don't mind your pointing out anything, obvious or not. This is all very very new to me and most likely I need to learn what you or anyone else is offering. I really appreciate all that everyone is doing to help me.

The pad has been poured, and is solidly under the equipment, but I just haven't bothered to remove the forms yet. Very obervant of you to notice though! :)
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Ah, good....score one more point for Capt. Obvious :super:

Make sure the electrician connects bonding wire to your rebar and leaves bonding wire to connect out to your decking and pool pad....you have read the Pool School section on proper pool bonding I hope ;)
 

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JoyfulNoise said:
Ah, good....score one more point for Capt. Obvious :super:

Make sure the electrician connects bonding wire to your rebar and leaves bonding wire to connect out to your decking and pool pad....you have read the Pool School section on proper pool bonding I hope ;)
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Thanks, I will be certain he does all of that. I read the link you posted awhile back but it never hurts to get a refresher. Thank you for the reminder.

I just went out to drain the system again for another overnight freeze. It's becoming a mud pit out there from all the water! Fortunately, the temps are supposed to stay warmer after tonight, so I should be able to pressurize the system one last time and leave it. When I refill the lines tomrrow, I'll have the bubblers closed (since I don't have the proper caps on them), so I should be able to watch the gauge without any added variables. Is any creep down ok, or does it have to stay exactly where it started?
 
badcrc said:
Cant wait till Gunite. Your having a baby? Well that is great I swam with my son almost every day when he was 9months old. I thought him to swim laps at 3-4 by using a jar with reward balls for a toy.
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Yes, it's a very busy the around here! I'm looking forward to having a pool with a baby. That will be totally new for us. And I'm sure my other non swimmers will become real swimmers in no time. I like your creativity with teaching your son how to swim. I'll have to remember that!
 
I was reading talk about overflow drains in another thread, and it made me think about how to do mine. The plumber said that the gunite guys leave a notch in the gunite to accommodate a pipe that the tile guys install, which I assume ends up in the waterline tile, above the normal water line? But I've read how you can use knockouts in the skimmer or autofill too. Is one way preferable to another in terms of how the overflow functions? I.e., overflowing when necessary, but not at every little splash out?

If I did it out of a skimmer, I'd just run a pipe beyond the decking, directed to a convenient place to take the water towards the back of the yard. But if I used the autofill knockout, because of its location, I would need to tie into the deck drains. Not sure which is easier or recommended.

Thank you for your thoughts.
 
The knockout in the auto fill can is above the water line. Therefore it will only overflow when the water gets above where you want it (mid line on the tile). If you use one of the skimmer auxiliary openings (normally used to tie skimmers and MDs in series), then the "overflow" will always be below the water line which means you'll need a shutoff valve to keep water from draining out of your skimmer.

I'd use the auto fill can. If it's not convenient, then just forget about it and use the spigot connection at your equipment pad to drain water when the pump is on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
JoyfulNoise said:
The knockout in the auto fill can is above the water line. Therefore it will only overflow when the water gets above where you want it (mid line on the tile). If you use one of the skimmer auxiliary openings (normally used to tie skimmers and MDs in series), then the "overflow" will always be below the water line which means you'll need a shutoff valve to keep water from draining out of your skimmer.

I'd use the auto fill can. If it's not convenient, then just forget about it and use the spigot connection at your equipment pad to drain water when the pump is on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
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Thanks Matt. This make sense about not using the skimmer knockout. I hadn't looked that closely to see that it would be below the waterline. It looks like the autofill can is set back far enough from the rebar that I can decide to use it up until the decking is poured. But if I want to drain out the back of the pool (assuming I don't just manually drain as you suggested), then I'll need to do a tile line drain and have the gunite guys leave me a spot for the pipe, correct?
 

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