Water testing issue

[newbiepo0lowner]

Hi everyone,

We bought our first house with a pool recently and we had an algae problem shortly after a swim. We were able to fix it after going to Leslie Pools and spending a few $100s on products to correct and regular maintenance. Just when we think we are doing OK (regular weekly testing, adding shock once a week, skim/brush, etc.), we got our water tested today and the results are attached with high chlorine amongst other issues. I'm really hesitant on buying/spending more stuff until we really know how to fix/maintain regularly.

We test the water using the aqua check strips. However, ever time I tested it, it said the chlorine levels were low so I added more pucks to see if that will raise the levels on the test trips. We took the water sample today (see attached) and I am frustrated but not surprised that the chlorine levels are high.

My questions are mainly going to be around how to get this maintenance under control -
1) Wednesday is normally when we will shock the pool - since Chlorine levels are high per Leslie's pool - do we skip shock for a week? We also pulled out the chlorine floaty for the time being.
2) I'm frustrated and think maybe the test strips are not working? Chlorine seems to always be low or non-existent when there is clearly chlorine in the pool. Is there a better/more accurate test kit I should order?
3) Based on the Leslie report - we now may need to fix other problems - calcium hardness, cya, and alkalinity. How should we best proceed?

Since we've moved in, there are TONS of information on the internet.. and I'm hoping to learn more through TFP.

Thank you!
Stressed and Frustrated newbiepo0lowner from Sacramento, CA

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
You need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF100. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols. Test strips are called guess strips for a reason. TFPC will not provide guidance based on pool store tests.
A properly managed pool never needs to be 'shocked'.
When you get your test kit, post the results here. I would suggest you add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each day until you get your test kit.
For some video information, check out TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[Newdude]

We were able to fix it after going to Leslie Pools and spending a few $100s on products to correct and regular maintenance

Just when we think we are doing OK (regular weekly testing, adding shock once a week, skim/brush, etc.), we got our water tested today and the results are attached with high chlorine amongst other issues

I'm really hesitant on buying/spending more stuff until we really know how to fix/maintain regularly.

*undoes the facepalm*. YAY !!! Trust yourself and not the folks whose sole purpose is to sell you unneeded magical fixes, or plain jane chemicals rebranded with fancy labels at 10X the cost.

You *NEED* a reliable test kit. Pronto. See Test Kits Compared. The TF-100 at tftestkits is by far the best value. More of what you need, and less to expire of the stuff you don’t need as often. I highly suggest the XL option as a newb. It will take a few tries to get right and you’ll test much more at first until you know everything backwards and forwards. It’s also great for those having chemistry issues needing more testing than normal so you check both boxes there.

So. Download the poolmath app and configure your pools specs. Add 5ppm of plain Jane bleach chlorine each day (per the app) so the pool won’t get any worse until the test kit arrives.

Post those results and we will guide you until you are your own pro. Start reading ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry. Tons of info and even more weird terms / acronyms at first. It’s super simple stuff but It took us all a few tries. Read, take some time to digest, Read again, Ask away with any thoughts.

 

[HermanTX]

Welcome to TFP.
There is a process & methodology for TFP so if you wish to follow it then it can significantly reduce your costs of maintenance over the long term and give you a clear pool. There are some key points I have learned in the past 18 months
You must have reliable test results and it is best you do those tests yourself for consistently. Buy a good test kit.
Know what chemicals you are adding to your pool. There are only 4-5 chemicals at most you should use and most are available at Home Depot, WalMart and do not purchase weird stuff from a pool store. I only purchase Liquid Chlorine and Muriatic Acid from a pool store if it tends to be more convenient or not available at Home Depot.
Understand the impact of what the chemicals will do. If you add 5 pucks to your pool chlorinator, what is the expectation they will do to the balance of your pool when fully dissolved.

So specific to your points - drop the test strips and purchase a good test kit. Test Kits Compared
While pucks do have their advantages they are mostly frowned upon because of the CYA they add to your pool over time. Right now your CYA is very low, so you are OK but be advised you need to consider switching to Liquid Chlorine as a minimum.
There is no such thing as "weekly shocks" to the pool. if you maintain your free chlorine (FC) in the appropriate range based on the FC/CYA Levels you will have a very consistent pool chemistry.
Managing calcium, alkalinity and pH become easier once you start to test and understand what chemicals affect what parameters.
Good Luck. I am sure others will chime in.

 

[newbiepo0lowner]

Welcome to TFP.
There is a process & methodology for TFP so if you wish to follow it then it can significantly reduce your costs of maintenance over the long term and give you a clear pool. There are some key points I have learned in the past 18 months
You must have reliable test results and it is best you do those tests yourself for consistently. Buy a good test kit.
Know what chemicals you are adding to your pool. There are only 4-5 chemicals at most you should use and most are available at Home Depot, WalMart and do not purchase weird stuff from a pool store. I only purchase Liquid Chlorine and Muriatic Acid from a pool store if it tends to be more convenient or not available at Home Depot.
Understand the impact of what the chemicals will do. If you add 5 pucks to your pool chlorinator, what is the expectation they will do to the balance of your pool when fully dissolved.

So specific to your points - drop the test strips and purchase a good test kit. Test Kits Compared
While pucks do have their advantages they are mostly frowned upon because of the CYA they add to your pool over time. Right now your CYA is very low, so you are OK but be advised you need to consider switching to Liquid Chlorine as a minimum.
There is no such thing as "weekly shocks" to the pool. if you maintain your free chlorine (FC) in the appropriate range based on the FC/CYA Levels you will have a very consistent pool chemistry.
Managing calcium, alkalinity and pH become easier once you start to test and understand what chemicals affect what parameters.
Good Luck. I am sure others will chime in.

Thanks! I will definite review the above links and look into ordering the test kits.

So, now that I've already spent a few hundreds of products (main shock and chlorine pucks) - Will I be able to use them at all?

 

[mknauss]

So, now that I've already spent a few hundreds of products (main shock and chlorine pucks) - Will I be able to use them at all?

Shock - what is it? If Cal Hypo, and your testing shows you need calcium, you can use that.
Pucks - you can use them while on vacation, over the winter, etc.

 

[newbiepo0lowner]

Shock - what is it? If Cal Hypo, and your testing shows you need calcium, you can use that.
Pucks - you can use them while on vacation, over the winter, etc.

phew.. glad I can still use them. the shock we have is Leslie Pools powder powder plus so yes, cal hypo. I feel so bad we bought so much.. Thank you!

 

[Newdude]

I feel so bad we bought so much.. Thank you!

Sometimes struggling the hard way is the best education you can get. You have no doubt in your mind that the pool store is *not* the way to go. Many new members only half listen and keep going back to the pool store not being patient enough. With bad results and $100s later they finally listen.

You’re ready to cut the pool store ties already. That’s half the battle !!! We’ll teach you the rest.

 

[newbiepo0lowner]

Sometimes struggling the hard way is the best education you can get. You have no doubt in your mind that the pool store is *not* the way to go. Many new members only half listen and keep going back to the pool store not being patient enough. With bad results and $100s later they finally listen.

You’re ready to cut the pool store ties already. That’s half the battle !!! We’ll teach you the rest.

Thank you!!! I ordered the new test kit so can't wait until it gets here to test and get this madness under control!

 

[newbiepo0lowner]

Finally received my TF-100 kit today and tested my pool water. Here are my results:

When measuring my chlorine and PH, it look like CI is 0.5 and PH is closest to 7.5. Is "ppm" just the unit used in testing water? Is it safe to say my pool has low chlorine and the Leslie test is Crud?

On to the other tests:
FC - 1ppm (I probably had the most trouble with this since it only took 1-2 drops to get a tinge of pink and back..)
CC - 1ppm
Calcium Harness - 325 ppm
TA - 90
CYA - 50

Now what? Chlorine pucks are floating around still as I wanted to wait until the test kit came. How do I get these to an ideal level?

 

[wireform]

So now that you know the CH is 325 STOP using the pucks. Get liquid chlorine in there asap per poolmath according to your CYA. You may already have something brewing cuz your CC is 1. Do an OCLT to determine if you have algae. Get back with results so we can lead you to a positive resolution.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Chlorine is a consumable element in the pool. You higher CL level may have been accurate but over days the sun will take a *tax* daily of between 2-4ppm (parts per million) and they have to be replaced appropriately.

The best way to chlorinate a pool is either via Liquid Chlorine or a Salt Water Chlorine Generator.

 

[mguzzy]

Finally received my TF-100 kit today and tested my pool water. Here are my results:

When measuring my chlorine and PH, it look like CI is 0.5 and PH is closest to 7.5. Is "ppm" just the unit used in testing water? Is it safe to say my pool has low chlorine and the Leslie test is Crud?

On to the other tests:
FC - 1ppm (I probably had the most trouble with this since it only took 1-2 drops to get a tinge of pink and back..)
CC - 1ppm
Calcium Harness - 325 ppm
TA - 90
CYA - 50

Now what? Chlorine pucks are floating around still as I wanted to wait until the test kit came. How do I get these to an ideal level?

Howdy Newbie.. from the other side of Sac-o-potatoes.... yeah I live in your neighborhood, so I know the weather here.

Great you got your TF-100! and even greater you got a numbers without torture! That wasn't that hard, was it? Ok lets finger out your stuff

First off can you fill out your signature so we know what kind of pool you have at a glance? it makes it a lot easier to provide advice. I didn't see what kind of pool you have in our posts above. See here:

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

For example do you have a plaster pool? SWG.. what kind of filters etc. They all have a bearing in what we recommend to people.

Now to your numbers..ppm stands for part per million.
-pH = 7.5 that is a good middle of the road number nothing to worry about there.
-TA = 90 that is a good value for now.. let it ride for now. It will adjust as your pH changes but for now lets concentrate on the chlorine
-FC = 1 ppm is low.. you need to be closer to 6-8 for a CYA of 50 per the FC/CYA Levels so get liquid chlorine.. Home Depot, Lowes and Walmart all carry 10% liquid chlorine in gallon jugs. Or many pools stores in the Sac area (Lesilies included) have HASA chlorine in the returnable yellow crates with 4 gallons each in 12.5% concentration. But the 10% is usually the better deal. Use the PoolMath app to figure out how much to add.
-CC = 1 means that the chlorine is being consumed by something, usually organics and the CC's are the measurable residual. When that is below .5 or just a trace then there is probably nothing using your chlorine other than the sun.
-CH = 325 that is probably too high. and if you are chlorinating with cal hypo you are just adding more. So switch to liquid chlorine. You need to follow this chart depending on your surface. You can probably bring that down through the winter rain dilutions with a little effort. Follow this chart for your recommended levels:
Recommended Levels
-CYA = 50 That is a decent value for a manually chlorinated pool.

Its likely you are at the start of an algae bloom so do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see if there is something consuming your chlorine .. and if so a SLAM Process is the next thing to do. This is not a one and done thing like Pool Store "shocking". The chlorine levels are brought up to a specific level and held there as best you can. Its the most effective way to kill algae. When you can pass the SLAM criteria then you are done.. its that simple

So, in case you have figured it out. TFP uses a different approach to pool maintenance that Leslie's does. They probably have never heard of the CYA/Chlorine relationship. So don't even try to explain it to them. you will just get blank stares.

Keep at it.. you are on the right path.

 

[newbiepo0lowner]

Ok so I didn’t have the means to go get liquid chlorine and ended up using 1 lb of 73% cal-hypo in the evening to bump up the chlorine.

I just tested the water and this is what I have now-

FC - 1.5 ppm
CC - 1ppm
TA - 100
CH - 325
CYA - 50
CI - 1
PH - 7.5

what I can tell is that my FC raised a little bit but is overall low. My TA is now out of range but I guess it has to do with the cal-hypo?

I’m worried how there is little chlorine and a possible algae situation. I’m planning to go to Walmart tomorrow to get liquid chlorine— couple of questions -

1. is it super obvious what liquid chlorine is? I’ve read to aim for 10-12%
2. How much jugs should I start off with?
3. based on what I’ve read, I have to get my FC up to a certain level before I can do OCLT to, right? So, can’t do that now. Did I understand this correctly?
4. Im heading out of town for a week — so should try to get the chlorine levels ASAP? I read I can use pucks to maintain while away?

I’m feeling anxious and clearly all over the place worrying about this pool.

Thank you!

 

[wireform]

Ok so I didn’t have the means to go get liquid chlorine and ended up using 1 lb of 73% cal-hypo in the evening to bump up the chlorine.

I just tested the water and this is what I have now-

FC - 1.5 ppm
CC - 1ppm
TA - 100
CH - 325
CYA - 50
CI - 1
PH - 7.5

what I can tell is that my FC raised a little bit but is overall low. My TA is now out of range but I guess it has to do with the cal-hypo?

I’m worried how there is little chlorine and a possible algae situation. I’m planning to go to Walmart tomorrow to get liquid chlorine— couple of questions -

1. is it super obvious what liquid chlorine is? I’ve read to aim for 10-12%
2. How much jugs should I start off with?
3. based on what I’ve read, I have to get my FC up to a certain level before I can do OCLT to, right? So, can’t do that now. Did I understand this correctly?
4. Im heading out of town for a week — so should try to get the chlorine levels ASAP? I read I can use pucks to maintain while away?

I’m feeling anxious and clearly all over the place worrying about this pool.

Thank you!

Newbie,
Pucks will help you maintain FC but not quick enough to stave off an algae bloom. Cal hypo isn't needed along with the little FC that it'll give you. Liquid chlorine comes in several percentages from 6 through 12.5 the higher the percentage the less you need to achieve samee results. If indeed the CYA 50 test was accurate then minimum FC is 4 ,target is 6-8 and slam level is 20. You must get FC in that water fast or else you'll definitely be slamming. Forget OCLT for now as you don't know the FC demand do to the unknowns in the water. If after you get FC into the water and it holds then OCLT comes to play. See if you can get a friend to drop 5 ppm daily till you get back as nothing else I can see feasible.

 

[mguzzy]

Go to the pool section in Walmart.. and there should be some jugs of Pool Essentials chlorine. Sometimes its sold individually or in a box of two jugs. I have only ever seen 10% concentration there. Get the newest stuff you can find. There is a Julian date code on the side This is how to read that secret code:

Chlorine Date Code Decoder - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

You can also check your local Lesilies for the HASA chlorine in the yellow crate. I have seen it sold at many of the Leslies and Mom and Pop pool stores in Sac. that is the 12.5% stuff. What part of Sac do you live in?

If you are leaving for a week there are a couple of things you can do... bring the FC up to SLAM level and cover the pool. Do you have a solar cover? that would work. OR have a friend dump a quarter gallon in a day. Trying to explain to a friend what 5ppm means will probably be alien speak to them. I wouldn't use the Cal Hypo, your CH is already kinda high.

 

[newbiepo0lowner]

What part of Sac do you live in?

We're in Elk Grove.

Do you have a solar cover?

Unfortunately, no. It's our first month here. Since neither option seems to work and we don't have a solar cover, can we just put a lot of chlorine in before we leave along with pucks and hope it's some what ok when we come back in a week? Or is this a completely bad idea?

Finally picked up some HDX liquid chlorine from HD. I couldn't figure out how much to put in so put in half the gallon jug slowly over the return at lunch. I plan to test the CH level later today. Should I have throw in the full gallon since my FC is so low?

Also, how long do I have to wait to test the water after adding chlorine?

 

[newbiepo0lowner]

just completed another test here and definite shows the increase in chlorine.

FC- 5.5
CC- 0.5
TA- 90
CH - 300
CYA 50
Ph - looks in between 7.5-7.8
CI - 5

based on the pool math app, am I supposed to fix anything with the ! ?

 

[mguzzy]

Bring it up to Slam FC by this chart before you leave
FC/CYA Levels
Use the Effects of adding in the PoolMath app to calculate how much Clhorine that will take.

 

[newbiepo0lowner]

Bring it up to Slam FC by this chart before you leave
FC/CYA Levels
Use the Effects of adding in the PoolMath app to calculate how much Clhorine that will take.

Thanks for pointing out where I’d add that in the app!
So bring it up to a 6-8 FC before I leave.
So right now since my CYA is at 50, my current FC is at 5.5 so it’s within range right?
Am I correct to interpret that FC under 4- 8 is ok but when over it is high?